Part 5 (2/2)

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

pound fiddlehead ferns, trimmed of any split, broken, or dirty stems Kosher salt 2 ounces thinly sliced pancetta, cut into -inch pieces 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 cup sh.e.l.led fava beans, long-blanched (see Fava Notes, page 88) and peeled (about 2 pounds in the pod) Freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

1. Drop the fiddleheads into a bowl of room-temperature water. Swirl with your hand to remove the brown papery parts. Drop the fiddleheads into a bowl of room-temperature water. Swirl with your hand to remove the brown papery parts.

2. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. While it's heating, prepare a bowl of ice water. Add the fiddleheads to the boiling water and blanch until tender, 7 to 8 minutes. Drain and immediately plunge the fiddleheads into the ice water to stop the cooking; drain thoroughly. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. While it's heating, prepare a bowl of ice water. Add the fiddleheads to the boiling water and blanch until tender, 7 to 8 minutes. Drain and immediately plunge the fiddleheads into the ice water to stop the cooking; drain thoroughly.

3. Heat a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the pancetta and cook until it begins to render its fat and get crispy, about 4 minutes. Add the olive oil and garlic. Cook until the garlic is aromatic, just a minute. (If it starts to sizzle as soon as it hits the pan, lower the heat so it doesn't burn.) Add the favas and fiddleheads, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until they're heated through. Drizzle with the lemon juice and serve immediately. Heat a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the pancetta and cook until it begins to render its fat and get crispy, about 4 minutes. Add the olive oil and garlic. Cook until the garlic is aromatic, just a minute. (If it starts to sizzle as soon as it hits the pan, lower the heat so it doesn't burn.) Add the favas and fiddleheads, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until they're heated through. Drizzle with the lemon juice and serve immediately.

Warm Spring Vegetable Salad with Favas, Green Beans, Peas, and Radicchio This dish builds on one of my favorite Italian vegetable combinations, a warm salad of radicchio and blanched peas. I've simply taken it several steps further by adding two other spring arrivals, favas and thin green beans. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and blanch the vegetables in sequence, transferring them to a bowl of ice water as they finish cooking. The salad is dressed with a cream and lemon vinaigrette, which may sound unusual but is a great match with the vegetables. Please don't skip the favas-they add a wonderful element in both taste and texture. You can cut down on serving-day preparation time by blanching the vegetables a day ahead. Refrigerate in resealable plastic bags, then a.s.semble the salad just before serving. of my favorite Italian vegetable combinations, a warm salad of radicchio and blanched peas. I've simply taken it several steps further by adding two other spring arrivals, favas and thin green beans. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and blanch the vegetables in sequence, transferring them to a bowl of ice water as they finish cooking. The salad is dressed with a cream and lemon vinaigrette, which may sound unusual but is a great match with the vegetables. Please don't skip the favas-they add a wonderful element in both taste and texture. You can cut down on serving-day preparation time by blanching the vegetables a day ahead. Refrigerate in resealable plastic bags, then a.s.semble the salad just before serving.

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

cup extra virgin olive oil 1 large red onion (about pound), sliced inch thick 2 large heads radicchio, washed, dried, cored, and cut crosswise into -inch-wide strips Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper pound thin green beans, trimmed and blanched in boiling salted water until just cooked, about 4 minutes pound fresh peas, sh.e.l.led and blanched in boiling salted water until just cooked, 1 to 3 minutes, depending on their size 1 to 2 cups sh.e.l.led fava beans, long-blanched (see Fava Notes, page 88), and peeled (about 3 pounds in the pod) cup coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest 3 to 4 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice cup light cream

1. Heat cup of the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook until translucent, about 3 minutes. Turn the heat to high, add the radicchio, and sear until browned. Season with salt and pepper and cook for 4 minutes. Lower the heat to medium, add the green beans, peas, and favas, and cook until just heated through. Season with salt and pepper and add the parsley and thyme. Remove from the heat and arrange on a platter. Heat cup of the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook until translucent, about 3 minutes. Turn the heat to high, add the radicchio, and sear until browned. Season with salt and pepper and cook for 4 minutes. Lower the heat to medium, add the green beans, peas, and favas, and cook until just heated through. Season with salt and pepper and add the parsley and thyme. Remove from the heat and arrange on a platter.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk together the rosemary, lemon zest, 3 tablespoons lemon juice (if you like tart vinaigrettes, use more), and the remaining cup olive oil. Whisk in the cream. Season with salt and pepper. In a medium bowl, whisk together the rosemary, lemon zest, 3 tablespoons lemon juice (if you like tart vinaigrettes, use more), and the remaining cup olive oil. Whisk in the cream. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Drizzle the vinaigrette over the vegetables and serve. (If you're going to have leftovers, dress only the portion you are serving, and store the remaining vegetables and vinaigrette separately in the refrigerator.) Serve at room temperature. Drizzle the vinaigrette over the vegetables and serve. (If you're going to have leftovers, dress only the portion you are serving, and store the remaining vegetables and vinaigrette separately in the refrigerator.) Serve at room temperature.

Fiery Garlicky Greens I can't tell whether my taste can't tell whether my taste buds have become desensitized or broccoli rabe has become milder over the years. My first taste of broccoli rabe more than twenty-five years ago struck me as both wonderful and shockingly bitter. I still love it, but it no longer seems as strong. I recently came across a recipe written some ten years ago advising readers to blanch broccoli rabe for a full five minutes in order to remove the bitterness. When my husband cooks it, he often skips the blanching altogether or simply braises the rabe in a covered pan with a little water for a couple of minutes. By the time the rabe has finished cooking, the water's gone-and the rabe tastes fine. buds have become desensitized or broccoli rabe has become milder over the years. My first taste of broccoli rabe more than twenty-five years ago struck me as both wonderful and shockingly bitter. I still love it, but it no longer seems as strong. I recently came across a recipe written some ten years ago advising readers to blanch broccoli rabe for a full five minutes in order to remove the bitterness. When my husband cooks it, he often skips the blanching altogether or simply braises the rabe in a covered pan with a little water for a couple of minutes. By the time the rabe has finished cooking, the water's gone-and the rabe tastes fine.

The traditional matches for broccoli rabe include raisins, pine nuts, garlic, and hot red pepper flakes. In this recipe, I've paired it with other sharp greens that can stand up to hot red pepper flakes. The greens are delicious served cold as well as hot, so they make a great picnic dish.

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

Kosher salt 1 pounds broccoli rabe, washed and trimmed of tough or split stems cup extra virgin olive oil 8 garlic cloves, sliced paper-thin pound chicory, washed and chopped crosswise into 2-inch sections pound arugula, washed to teaspoon hot red pepper flakes

DO AHEAD: The broccoli rabe can be blanched ahead of time. Just be sure to plunge it into cold water to stop the cooking, then drain and refrigerate until ready to use. The broccoli rabe can be blanched ahead of time. Just be sure to plunge it into cold water to stop the cooking, then drain and refrigerate until ready to use.

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch the broccoli rabe for 3 minutes, then plunge it immediately into an ice bath to stop the cooking. Drain and set aside. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch the broccoli rabe for 3 minutes, then plunge it immediately into an ice bath to stop the cooking. Drain and set aside.

2. Combine the olive oil and garlic in a large saute pan over medium-low heat and cook until the garlic is just golden around the edges, 8 to 10 minutes. Do not let the garlic burn. Remove the garlic from the pan and set it aside. Combine the olive oil and garlic in a large saute pan over medium-low heat and cook until the garlic is just golden around the edges, 8 to 10 minutes. Do not let the garlic burn. Remove the garlic from the pan and set it aside.

3. Increase the heat to high, add the broccoli rabe and chicory, and cook until the chicory has wilted. Add the arugula, season with salt, and add red pepper flakes to taste. Cook until the arugula wilts, stirring frequently. It will only take a minute or two, so don't take your eye off the pan, or the arugula will overcook. Return the garlic to the pan, stir, and serve immediately. Increase the heat to high, add the broccoli rabe and chicory, and cook until the chicory has wilted. Add the arugula, season with salt, and add red pepper flakes to taste. Cook until the arugula wilts, stirring frequently. It will only take a minute or two, so don't take your eye off the pan, or the arugula will overcook. Return the garlic to the pan, stir, and serve immediately.

Leek, Artichoke, and Fennel Strudel This versatile phyllo pastry roll is stuffed with an aromatic combination of leeks, artichokes, fennel, potatoes, and goat cheese. With phyllo, an amateur can look like a professional, and the final dish is adaptable to however you want to serve it. The roll of strudel can be cut into portions appropriate for side dishes for four or an entree for two. is stuffed with an aromatic combination of leeks, artichokes, fennel, potatoes, and goat cheese. With phyllo, an amateur can look like a professional, and the final dish is adaptable to however you want to serve it. The roll of strudel can be cut into portions appropriate for side dishes for four or an entree for two.

You can prepare as much or as little of this dish ahead as you wish, short of the final baking. You can cook the vegetables a day ahead and then a.s.semble the strudel before baking. The strudel can even be completely a.s.sembled and refrigerated overnight until ready to bake.

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS OR 2 ENTReE SERVINGS.

pound Red Bliss potatoes, scrubbed Kosher salt cup extra virgin olive oil 2 large leeks, white part only, trimmed of roots and tough outer leaves, sliced inch thick crosswise, and swirled vigorously in a bowl of cold water to remove any grit 2 small fennel bulbs, trimmed of stalks and tough outer layers, cut lengthwise in half, cored, and thinly sliced crosswise Freshly ground black pepper pound trimmed baby artichokes (about 1 pounds, untrimmed; see page 85), cut into quarters (if baby artichokes are unavailable, subst.i.tute a 9-ounce package frozen artichoke hearts, thawed) 6 small or 4 large garlic cloves, finely chopped teaspoon fennel seeds teaspoon ground coriander 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary cup dry white wine cup water 1 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice About 2 ounces ( cup) freshly grated Parmesan About 5 ounces (1 cup) crumbled feta cheese 8 sheets phyllo dough stick unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted

1. Chop the potatoes into -inch dice. Put into a small pot, add cold water to cover by 1 inch, and season with salt. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and let cool. Chop the potatoes into -inch dice. Put into a small pot, add cold water to cover by 1 inch, and season with salt. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and let cool.

2. While the potatoes are cooking, heat the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the leeks and fennel and season with salt and pepper. Cook for 5 minutes until they begin to get tender. Add the artichokes, garlic, fennel seeds, coriander, thyme, and rosemary and cook until the leeks and fennel are tender, 5 to 7 minutes. (If using frozen artichoke hearts, wait to add them until the next step.) While the potatoes are cooking, heat the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the leeks and fennel and season with salt and pepper. Cook for 5 minutes until they begin to get tender. Add the artichokes, garlic, fennel seeds, coriander, thyme, and rosemary and cook until the leeks and fennel are tender, 5 to 7 minutes. (If using frozen artichoke hearts, wait to add them until the next step.) 3. Add the wine and water. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the artichokes are tender and the liquid has evaporated, about 8 minutes. Add the potatoes and toss well. Let cool. Add the wine and water. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the artichokes are tender and the liquid has evaporated, about 8 minutes. Add the potatoes and toss well. Let cool.

4. Preheat the oven to 350F. Preheat the oven to 350F.

5. Add the parsley, lemon juice, Parmesan, and feta cheese to the vegetables and toss well. Taste for seasoning and adjust as necessary. Add the parsley, lemon juice, Parmesan, and feta cheese to the vegetables and toss well. Taste for seasoning and adjust as necessary.

6. Lay a sheet of phyllo dough out on the counter with a long edge toward you. Brush with a thin coat of melted b.u.t.ter. Carefully position a second sheet of phyllo atop the first and brush it with a teaspoon of melted b.u.t.ter. Continue until you have a stack of 4 phyllo sheets. Arrange half of the vegetables in a narrow mound running along the bottom edge of the phyllo stack. Roll up tightly. Brush the log with 1 teaspoon b.u.t.ter. Repeat to make a second log. Lay a sheet of phyllo dough out on the counter with a long edge toward you. Brush with a thin coat of melted b.u.t.ter. Carefully position a second sheet of phyllo atop the first and brush it with a teaspoon of melted b.u.t.ter. Continue until you have a stack of 4 phyllo sheets. Arrange half of the vegetables in a narrow mound running along the bottom edge of the phyllo stack. Roll up tightly. Brush the log with 1 teaspoon b.u.t.ter. Repeat to make a second log.

7. Trim the ends of the logs, then cut each log into 4 pieces. Set on a b.u.t.tered baking sheet. Bake until golden brown, about 45 minutes. Trim the ends of the logs, then cut each log into 4 pieces. Set on a b.u.t.tered baking sheet. Bake until golden brown, about 45 minutes.

8. Arrange on a platter, or place 2 pieces on each of four warm plates. Arrange on a platter, or place 2 pieces on each of four warm plates.

NOTE: Frozen artichoke hearts can be subst.i.tuted for fresh baby artichokes if the latter are unavailable. Do not use marinated artichokes (the kind that come in a jar)-their taste is too sharp. Add the artichokes in Step 3, after most of the water has evaporated. Since frozen artichoke hearts are already cooked, they only need to be in the pan long enough to warm. Allow the rest of the liquid to evaporate and continue with the recipe. Frozen artichoke hearts can be subst.i.tuted for fresh baby artichokes if the latter are unavailable. Do not use marinated artichokes (the kind that come in a jar)-their taste is too sharp. Add the artichokes in Step 3, after most of the water has evaporated. Since frozen artichoke hearts are already cooked, they only need to be in the pan long enough to warm. Allow the rest of the liquid to evaporate and continue with the recipe.

Braised Escarole with Parmesan Crust Escarole intimidates people. People who think nothing of sauteing spinach or Swiss chard shy away from it. Its coa.r.s.e fibrous leaves seem just too strange to mess with, which is unfortunate, because braising melts the plant's fibers into a silky, spinach-like consistency. I particularly like to pair braised escarole with bold-flavored meat dishes, like Roasted Marinated Long Island Duck with Green Olive and Balsamic Vinegar Sauce (page 316) or Roast Leg of Lamb with Mustard Crumbs (page 282). think nothing of sauteing spinach or Swiss chard shy away from it. Its coa.r.s.e fibrous leaves seem just too strange to mess with, which is unfortunate, because braising melts the plant's fibers into a silky, spinach-like consistency. I particularly like to pair braised escarole with bold-flavored meat dishes, like Roasted Marinated Long Island Duck with Green Olive and Balsamic Vinegar Sauce (page 316) or Roast Leg of Lamb with Mustard Crumbs (page 282).

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

1 large head escarole cup extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 medium white onion, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary 2 teaspoons chopped fresh sage 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest 1 cup Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth cup dry white wine cup freshly grated Parmesan cup fresh bread crumbs

DO AHEAD: The escarole can be braised several days ahead and refrigerated until you are ready to serve it, which can be quite convenient if you're serving it with something else that requires your attention. If braising ahead, omit the crust of cheese and bread crumbs. To reheat, first bring it to room temperature, then put it in a 375F oven for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven, top with the crust ingredients, and return to the oven until the crust browns, about 15 minutes. The escarole can be braised several days ahead and refrigerated until you are ready to serve it, which can be quite convenient if you're serving it with something else that requires your attention. If braising ahead, omit the crust of cheese and bread crumbs. To reheat, first bring it to room temperature, then put it in a 375F oven for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven, top with the crust ingredients, and return to the oven until the crust browns, about 15 minutes.

1. Preheat oven to 325F. Preheat oven to 325F.

2. Cut the escarole lengthwise into quarters, wash thoroughly (see box), and pat completely dry. Cut the escarole lengthwise into quarters, wash thoroughly (see box), and pat completely dry.

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