Part 14 (1/2)
”How much?” he asked.
”Three and six,” replied the waiter.
Mr. Peasley handed him three and six.
”Each,” said the waiter.
[Ill.u.s.tration: _”Each,” said the waiter_]
Mr. Peasley swallowed something and his eyes leaned from their sockets, but he said nothing. He handed over two sovereigns, and the change that came back to him was almost sufficient for the waiter's tip.
There was a brief silence and then Mr. Peasley said:--”Three s.h.i.+llings is seventy-five cents--seventy-five and twelve make eighty-seven.”
Another silence.
”Eighty-seven cents,” sighed Mr. Peasley. ”Three bushels of oats for a cigar!”
When Mr. Brewster crossed our trail in Egypt and became our fellow pa.s.senger on a Nile steamer Mr. Peasley remembered him and longed for a chance to get even.
Our friend from Connecticut was wearing a large canopy helmet--the kind that makes a short man look like a walking piano-stool. We were wearing the same outlandish style of headgear and for some reason or other, no person being responsible for what he does when he is away from home, Mr. Peasley had his name boldly marked in Arabic on the front of his helmet. It didn't look like anything, but it was real Arabic and said his name was Peasley and that he came from Iowa and he was very proud of it. He urged Mr. Brewster to have his helmet marked in a similar way.
”I hardly like the idea of wearing my name on my hat,” said the man from Connecticut.
”But when you get home and hang the thing up in your den with the Navajo blankets and swords and other curios, think what a fine souvenir it will be,” urged Mr. Peasley.
Mr. Brewster finally consented and Mr. Peasley took the helmet to the head steward, who was a native, and in a few minutes he brought it back magnificently lettered all over the front. It surely did look Oriental and decorative and Mr. Brewster was grateful when he saw how beautifully his name and New England address showed up in Arabic.
That afternoon we landed at a.s.siut, which is headquarters for a most wolfish a.s.sortment of guides, street peddlers, and hold-up men who work in the bazaars. Most of them are Copts and claim to be good Christians, but we did not feel impelled to throw up our hats on that account. When they bore down upon us and started to wrestle with us we could hardly distinguish any difference between them and the ordinary heathen.
From the moment that we landed, Mr. Brewster of Connecticut attracted more attention than any other person in the party. Four guides laid hold of him at the same moment and declined to let go. Later on, in the bazaar, every dealer who sighted him gave a glad guttural cry and tried to drag him into one of the stuffy little shops. The arrival of an ordinary tourist is calculated to agitate a bazaar, but when Mr.
Brewster appeared the general effect was the same as when the raw meat is carried into the zoo. He was pulled and hauled and for the whole length of the winding bazaar his way was blocked by frantic villains in white gowns and huge turbans, who dangled tawdry merchandise in front of him and begged him to make an offer. Mr. Brewster was a good deal amazed, and we were more or less puzzled until we came back to the boat and Mr. Peasley confessed that the Arabic characters boldly displayed on Mr. Brewster's helmet did not stand for his name and address at all, but meant, as nearly as could be translated, ”Rich American--Easy Mark.”
[Ill.u.s.tration: ”_Rich American--Easy Mark._”]
Poor Mr. Brewster! At the present writing he is still wearing that bold label, wandering in and out of shops and around hotels, inviting the attacks of guides, donkey boys, servants, and peddlers. It seemed a rather low-down trick, but Mr. Peasley said that probably it would flatter Mr. Brewster to learn that anyone from Connecticut could attract so much attention in a foreign country.
Arabic is surely a weird excuse for a language. In its written form it looks like the bird-track ill.u.s.trations in one of Thompson Seton Thompson's books, and instead of reading it from left to right you begin at the tail end of a sentence and back up all the way. In reading an Arabic novel you turn to the end of the book and read the last chapter first, and if it develops that the fellow marries the girl, naturally that saves a lot of trouble. In its right to left character the Arabic is somewhat like the Hebrew or Lower Broadway language, which also begins at the leaving-off place. This fact reminded a New York man of a story. He said that in one of the east side a.s.sembly districts of New York city a large body of Yiddish voters, recently arrived in the land of the somewhat free and the home of the more or less brave, had been rounded up very carefully by the Tammany workers. The voters were not familiar with the workings of the Australian ballot system, and had to be instructed by the Tammany ward heelers, who said:--”All you have to do is to put a cross mark in the circle at the top of the first column, see?” That seemed simple enough, so the voters went into the booths and marked the first--that is, the right hand--column, and elected the Prohibition candidate.
The Arabic language, when spoken, sounds very much like an agitated person trying to dislodge a fish bone. It is one of the most unmusical tongues in the world and offers no tempting inducements to the student, yet Mr. Peasley actually bought one of those ”Arabic at a Glance” books and started to learn some of the more useful sentences. He said that if he could get Arabic down pat he would pa.s.s as a native and be enabled to buy things at about half price. After two days of hard study he attempted a conversation with a military policeman standing on the river bank at Dendera. Mr. Peasley strolled up to him, careless like, and said, ”Ana awez arabiyet kwayesset min shan arookh el balad.”
That was supposed to mean, ”I want a first-cla.s.s carriage for driving in the town.” The stalwart soldier gazed at Mr. Peasley with a most bewildered look in his jet black eyes and then began to edge away.
”Hold on,” said Mr. Peasley. ”How about hal yel zamna ghafar yerafegua bill tareeg?”
[Ill.u.s.tration: ”_How about hal yel zamna ghafar yerafegua bill tareeg?_”]
Mr. Peasley thought he was asking, ”Shall we require a guide or an escort in this town?”
The soldier beckoned to us to come over and help him out.
”Tell him, please, that I am educate at the Presbyterian Mission,” said he. ”I speak only English and Arabic.”
We questioned him later and learned that he took Mr. Peasley to be a Russian. This one little experience rather discouraged our travelling companion. He said it was foolish to waste important dialogue on a lot of benighted ignorami who did not know their own language.