Part 11 (1/2)

LODORE INN, 5th of 9th Month, 1851.

MY BELOVED M.:--

* * * I am glad to say that we still have very fine weather. At Keswick we were planning how we could see Frederick Myers, but that evening his widow was returning to the parsonage with her three fatherless children, and we could only look on the family vault in the lovely churchyard, the school-room, library, etc., and think of his antic.i.p.ations, now no doubt so happily realized, of the ”'well done,' which it will be heaven to hear.” A fine black storm hung over Skiddaw and Saddleback, and _such_ a rainbow spanned it. The western sky was full of the sunset, and the lake lay in lovely repose beneath. Of the clouds we really cannot say more than that they are often very beautiful, and sometimes dress up the mountains in grandeur not their own; but I have seen none that might not be Cornish clouds.

I am quite well. * * * For my sake be cheerful and happy.

Thy very loving sister,

E.S.

To her Father.

SCALE HILL HOTEL, 8th of 9th Month, 1851.

MY BELOVED FATHER:--

On Seventh-day, after breakfast at Lodore, we set off for a treat indeed--a canter up Borrowdale.

The morning splendid. Keswick Lake sparkling behind us. The crags of Borrowdale in the blue misty suns.h.i.+ne of morning overhung by not less beautiful shades.

We were quite glad to get to this sort of mountain scenery again, which we had so enjoyed at Grasmere, and leave smooth, bare, pyramidal Skiddaw and its ”ancient” fellows behind. We at last ascended the steep zigzag which begins Sty Head Pa.s.s, confirming our resolution now and then by admiring the plodding industry of our mountain horses. It was indeed pleasant when the last gate was opened and we were safe within the wall of rough stones which headed the steep ascent, and we could wind more at leisure beside the foaming ”beck” which runs out of Sty Head Tarn.

This desolate mountain lake was soon reached, and the n.o.ble dark Scawfell Pikes--the highest mountain in England, (3166 feet)--were its majestic background.

But that we had been gradually inured to such scenes, this would indeed have been the most impressive we have beheld. On we rode till deep shady Wastdale opened below us, and we found ourselves at the head of the Pa.s.s.

I have enjoyed this journey very much more than I expected, and the weather, on the whole, has been favorable.

I think of you all with double affection, which accept very warmly from

Thy affectionate daughter,

E.S.

To her Sister.

PATTERDALE, 11th of 9th Month, 1851.

MY BELOVED L.:--

* * * This delightful morning, Ulleswater, which we admired as much, if not more than any lake which we have seen, was of the brightest blue, and the valley behind as rich in loveliness, when we set off for Helvellyn.

The top is just five miles from the Inn. At last the pony was tied to a stake, and we wound up the Swirrel Edge. The rocks are almost perpendicular, and strangely s.h.i.+vered, and we looked down on the Red Tarn sparkling in the sun with, as it were, thousands of stars. At last we reached the top, a bare smooth summit, whence the wide misty landscape stretched all around us. Six lakes should have been visible; but we were obliged to be content with the whole stretch of Ulleswater, eight miles behind us, Ba.s.senthwaite to the north, and perhaps a bit of Keswick; but I would not have missed the scene for any reasonable consideration.

Scott, of course, stood on the top of the hill looking down on the Tarn, with Striding Edge on his right.

Alas! no ”eagles” are ever ”yelling” on the mountain, nor ”brown mountain heather” is in sight--only common mountain gra.s.s.

On the top of Helvellyn she wrote the following lines in a sketch-book:--

How softly the winds of the mountains are saying, ”No chamber of death is Helvellyn's dark brow;”

On the ”rough rocky edge” are the fleecy flocks straying, And ”Red Tarn” gleams bright with a thousand stars now.

The ”huge nameless rook” has no gloom in its shadow; It catches the sun, it has found it a name; And the mountain gra.s.s covers like the turf of the meadow The arms of Helvellyn and Catchedecan.