Part 25 (1/2)

Strain through a cheesecloth-lined strainer set over a large bowl, then press as much liquid out of the katsuobus.h.i.+ as you can. Reserve the liquid. Discard the katsuobus.h.i.+. You can add a dried s.h.i.+take mushroom to the liquid as it cools. Das.h.i.+ keeps in the refrigerator for 1 week, or until it starts to cloud.

MAKE THE SAUCE

Combine the das.h.i.+, scallions, cilantro, vinegar, soy sauce, ginger, mirin, sesame oil, and hot pepper flakes in a medium bowl. Season to taste with more vinegar, soy, and red pepper flakes. Give the sauce a few hours to meld before serving.

Serve the pork shoulder shredded or chopped, along with rice and leaves of bibb (or other) lettuce. Let guests use the lettuce leaves to make rolls filled with pork and rice and dipped in the sauce.

2. Water

Meat Sugo and Pasta

Here is Samin Nosrat's recipe for sugo, the cla.s.sic Italian meat sauce that, depending on the region, is also known as Bolognese or ragu. This might not at first seem like a braise-there's no featured chunk of animal protein-but the principles are the same: a dice of onions, carrots, and celery; browned meat; a long, slow simmer in liquid. Making this recipe takes a few hours, so I usually prepare a big batch and freeze some of it in containers. Samin's recipe calls for pork and beef, but it can be made with any kind of meat, including chicken, duck, rabbit, or game.

Active Time: about 3 hours

Total Time: between 5 and 7 hours

FOR THE SPICE SACHET

3 whole cloves

One 1-inch piece cinnamon stick

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

1 teaspoon juniper berries

teaspoon whole allspice

teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

FOR THE SUGO

2 cups pure olive oil (not extra-virgin)

3 pounds boneless pork shoulder (ask butcher to coa.r.s.ely grind the meat through a -inch die, if possible)

3 pounds beef, veal, or a combination, coa.r.s.ely ground (any braising cut, such as chuck or round, is fine)

1 (750 ml) bottle dry red wine

4 medium red onions (about 2 pounds), peeled

3 medium carrots (about 12 ounces), peeled

3 medium ribs celery (about 8 ounces), rinsed

1 cup tomato paste