Part 7 (1/2)

I Notes on the Develop Machine

INTRODUCTION

While researching the history of the invention and the developthe ht The manufacture of the”industrial United States,” as was the production of attach and the need for new types of needles and thread Moreover, the machine's ability to speed up production permitted it to permeate the entire field of products , from umbrellas to tents Since this aspect of the story was not completed for this study, no attempt will be made to include any definitive state machine at home or abroad This related information is of sufficient interest, however, to warrant inclusion in this first Appendix Perhaps these notes will suggest areas of future research for students of Ay

READY-MADE CLOTHING

Whether of the expensive or the inexpensive type, the sewing machine was much more than a popular household appliance Its introduction had far-reaching effects onestablish ready- industry was not only in a state of development to welcome the new machine but also was, in all probability, responsible for its immediate practical application and success

Until the early part of the second quarter of the 19th century, the ready- trade in the United States was confined al required by sailors about to shi+p out to sea The stores that kept these supplies were usually in the neighborhood of wharf areas But other than the needs of these seaoods Out of necessity many of the families in the early years in this country hadAs wealth was acquired and taste could be cultivated, professional sea demand, moved into the cities and towns, and even visited the s as their services were needed At the sa in the cities, especially in New York City, that of dealing in second-hand clothing Industrious persons bought up old clothes, cleaned, repaired and refinished therants and transients ished to avoid the high cost of new custo of this second-hand clothing led to the purchase of cheap cloth at auction--”half-burnt,” ”wet-goods,” and other da needs, this fabric was arments and sold with the second-hand iteh New York City were found to be potential buyers of this merchandise if a better class of ready-an to increase Tailors of the city began to keep an assortht these, they were also very likely to buy additional garments for resale at hoar industry in New York about 1834-35

Most of the ready-e factories Large quantities of cloth were purchased; cutting was done in multiple layers with tailor's shears Since arirls in their hoararle custom-made item The appeal of increased profits influencedcoar underway, the Panic of 1837 ruined most of them But the lower cost and the convenience of ready-ar business re-established soon after the Panic had subsided, but by 1841 the value of clothing sold at wholesale in New York was esti machines wereestablishments in the United States Beside New York City, Cincinnati was also one of the i centers In 1850 the value of its products amounted to 4,427,500 and in 1860 to 6,381,190 Boston was another i production of 4,567,749 in 1860

Philadelphia, Baltie wholesale clothing trade by 1860 Here was the readyestablishencies in shout the countryside The new, co to deliver a machine for a small sum and to allow the buyer to pay a dollar or two a month until the full amount of the sale was paid This was an extension of the hire-purchase plan (buying on credit) initiated by Clark of the Singer Coer to buy, for they were able to producemachine and therefore earnly established through a series of experiments conducted by the Wheeler and Wilson co-ures in this comparative time study, the results of which were published in 1861;[74]

NUMBER OF StitCHES PER MINUTE

_By Hand_ _By Machine_ Patent leather, fine stitching 7 175 Binding hats 33 374 Stitching va fine silk 30 550

TIME FOR GARMENTS StitCHED

_By Hand_ _By Machine_ Frock coats 16 hrs 35 min 2 hrs 38 min

Satin vests 7 hrs 19 min 1 hr 14 min

Summer pants 2 hrs 50 min 0 hr 38 min

Calico dress 6 hrs 37 min 0 hr 57 min

Plain apron 1 hr 26 min 0 hr 9 min

Gentlemen's shi+rts 14 hrs 26 min 1 hr 16work done at the factory, was also developing In 1860, Oliver F Winchester, a shi+rt manufacturer of New Haven, Connecticut, stated that his factory turned out 800 dozen shi+rts per week, using 400 sewing machines and operators to do the work of 2,000 hand sewers The price for hand seas then 3 per week, which made labor costs 6000 per week The 400the labor cost 1600 per week Allowing 150 as the cost of eachmachines more than paid for themselves in less than 14 weeks, increased the operators pay by 1 a week, and lowered the retail cost of the ites of time, which was as oods--such items as shi+rts, aprons, and calico dresses The Cohed the monetary effect that this or any invention had on the econoain received by the patentee When he found that the patentee had not been fairly corant a seven-year extension to the patent[76]

The sewing machine also contributed to the popularity of certain fashi+ons Ready-made cloaks for wo when the sewing machine was adopted for theirreduced the cost of constructing the gar its price and increasing its popularity In New York City alone, the value of the ”cloak and mantilla” manufacture in 1860 was 618,400[77] Crinolines and hoopskirts were easier to stitch by machine than by hand, and these items had a spirited period of popularity due to the introduction of the sewingadorned many costume items because they could be produced bythe sewing machine for the manufacture of shi+rts, collars, and related s, the machine was also used in the production of ave ”a vast impetus to the trade”[78] The Armachine was purchased for the Philadelphia Quartermaster Depot as early as 1851, they had only six by 1860 On March 31, 1859, General Jesup of the Philadelphia Depot wrote to a Nechard & Co had been tried but was not used for clothing, only for stitching caps and chevrons In another letter, on the sa Factory, N Orleans,”