Part 10 (1/2)

We will now give our attention to the bait stick. This should be about six inches in length, and square, as our ill.u.s.tration shows.

There are two ways of attaching the bait-stick to the board, both shown at (_e_) and (_f_). The former consists merely of a screw eye inserted into the end of the stick, afterwards hinged to the board by a wire staple. The point for the hinge, in this case, should be about an inch below the auger hole. In the other method (_f_), the bait stick should be a half inch longer, and the spot for the hinge a quarter inch lower. At about a quarter of an inch from the square end of the bait stick a small hole should be made by the use of a hot wire. An oblong mortice should next be cut in the board, so as to receive this end of the stick easily. A stout bit of wire should then be inserted in the little hole in the stick, and laying this across the centre of the mortice, it should be thus secured by two staples, as the drawing shows. This forms a very neat and simple hinge. To determine the place for the catch, insert the flat end of the little plug fairly into the auger-hole above the hinge. Draw up the bait stick, and at the point where it comes in contact with the point of the plug, cut a square notch, as shown in (_b_). Everything now awaits the bow.

This should be of hickory or other stout wood; it is well to have it seasoned, although a stout sapling will answer the purpose very well. It should be fastened to the top of the board by two heavy staples, or nails driven on each side of it. The string should be _heavy_ Indian twine. Our [Page 119]

ill.u.s.tration shows the trap, as it appears when ready for business.

The plug is inserted, as already described, with the bevelled face downward, and square end in the hole. Draw down the bow-string and pa.s.s it beneath the plug, at the same time catching the tip of the latter in the notch of the bait stick. If properly constructed the string will thus rest on the slight uncut portion of the under side of the peg, and the trap is thus set. If the bait is pushed when approached, the notch is forced off from the plug, and the string flies up with a _tw.a.n.g!_ securing the neck of its victim, and producing almost instant death. If the bait is _pulled_, the bait stick thus forces the plug into the hole in the board, and thus slides the cord on to the bevel, which immediately releases it, and the bow is sprung. So that no matter whether the bait is pushed or drawn towards the front, the trap is equally sure to spring.

In setting this curious machine, it is only necessary to insert it into the ground, and surround the bait with a slight pen, in order that it may not be approached from behind. By now laying a stone or a pile of sticks in front of the affair, so that the bait may be more readily reached, the thing is ready. Care is required in setting to arrange the pieces delicately. The plug should be _very slightly_ inserted into the auger hole, and the notch in the bait stick should be as small as possible, and hold. All this is made clear in our ill.u.s.tration (_b_).

By observing these little niceties the trap becomes very sure and sensitive.

Bait with small apple, nub of corn, or the like.

THE MOLE TRAP.

If there is anyone subject upon which the ingenuity of the farmers has been taxed, it is on the invention of a mole trap which would effectually clear their premises of these blind burrowing vermin.

Many patented devices of this character are on the market, and many odd pictured ideas on the subject have gone the rounds of the ill.u.s.trated press, but they all sink into insignificance when tested beside the trap we here present. It has no equal among mole traps, and it can be made with the utmost ease and without cost.

The principle on which it works is the same as the Fish Trap on page 120.

Construct a hollow wooden tube about five inches in diameter, and eight inches in length. A section of a small tree, neatly excavated with a large auger is just the thing. Through [Page 120]

the centre of one of the sides a small hole the size of a lead pencil should be bored, this being the upper side. About half an inch distant from each end a smaller hole should be made for the pa.s.sage of the noose. The spring should consist either of a stout steel rod, whalebone or stiff sapling, a foot or more in length, inserted downward through holes in the side of the tube after the manner of the Fish Trap already alluded to. No bait is required.

A simple stick the size of the central hole at one end, and an inch in width at the other being sufficient. The trap is set as described in the other instances, and as the introduction of the spindle-stick is sometimes attended with difficulty owing to its position inside the trap, the bottom of the latter is sometimes cut away for two or three inches to facilitate the operation. The trap is then to be imbedded within the burrow of the mole. Find a fresh tunnel and carefully remove the sod above it. Insert the trap and replace the turf. The first mole that starts on his rounds through that burrow is a sure prisoner, no matter from which side he may approach.

Immense numbers of these troublesome vermin have been taken in a single season by a dozen such traps, and they possess great advantages over all other mole traps on account of their simplicity and unfailing success.

A FISH TRAP.

Our list of traps would be incomplete without a Fish Trap, and although we have mentioned some contrivances in this line under our article on ”Fis.h.i.+ng” we here present one which is both new and novel.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

Its mode of construction is exactly similar to the Double Box Snare, page (57). A section of stove-pipe one foot in length should first be obtained. Through the iron at a point equidistant from the ends, a hole should be made with some smooth, sharp pointed instrument, the latter being forced _outward_ from the _inside_ of the pipe, thus causing the ragged edge of the hole to appear on the outside, as seen in our ill.u.s.tration. The diameter of the aperture [Page 121]

should be about that of a lead pencil. Considering this as the _upper side_ of the pipe, proceed to pierce two more hole's _downward_ through the side of the circ.u.mference, for the admission of a stout stick or steel rod. This is fully explained in our ill.u.s.tration. The further arrangement of bait stick and nooses is exactly identical with that described on page (57). It may be set for suckers, pickerel, and fish of like size, the bait stick being inserted with sufficient firmness to withstand the attacks of smaller fish. The bait should be firmly tied to the stick, or the latter supplied with two hooks at the end on which it should be firmly impaled. To set the trap, select a locality abounding in fish. Place a stone inside the bottom of the pipe, insert the bait stick and arrange the nooses.

By now quietly grasping the curve of the switch the trap may be easily lowered to the bottom. The bait soon attracts a mult.i.tude of small fishes; these in turn attract the pickerel to the spot, and before many minutes the trap is sprung and may be raised from the water with its prisoner. This odd device is an invention of the author's, and it is as successful as it is unique.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Maternal advice.]

[Page 123]

[Ill.u.s.tration: HOUSEHOLD TRAPS]

[Page 125]

BOOK V.

HOUSEHOLD TRAPS.

[Ill.u.s.tration: F]or the most effectual domestic trap on record see our page t.i.tle to this section. There are several others also which have done good service in many households, and for the sake of pestered housekeepers generally, we devote a corner of our volume for their especial benefit.