Part 24 (1/2)

”How are thy crops?”

”G.o.d will give me a good harvest.”

”How are thy horses?” ”Thy sheep?” ”Thy goats?” ”Thy cows?” ”Thy pigs?” ”Thy bees?”

It must be clearly understood, to appreciate the humour of the scene, that the formula has been shortened to avoid vain repet.i.tion. Every question is asked in full, and answered with a pious ”Dobro, hfala Bogu” (”Well, thank G.o.d”). Not a word is omitted. The concluding question is put, after a few moments' thought that really no item has been left out, and this covers any lapse of memory.

”And, in short, How art thou?”

”Dobro, hfala Bogu” (”Well, thank G.o.d”).

”Hfala Bogu” (”Thank G.o.d”).

Now it is the other's turn, and precisely the same questions are asked, varied perhaps with an inquiry as to the state of health of the district ”standard bearer” or ”mayor.” Then a few minutes' general conversation are indulged in as to the direct cause of the other's visit to Cetinje, and each satisfied that he has gained every particle of information, they clasp hands, kiss, and part with a measured ”S'Bogom,” signifying that they commend each other to the Almighty's keeping.

The simplest and most inoffensive query is answered thus:--

”Hast thou any milk?” says the thirsty wayfarer, pausing at a hut.

”I have none, by G.o.d,” and the stranger proceeds wearily on his way.

Our visit to the hospital was decidedly interesting. The senior doctor of Montenegro was an ex-Austrian military surgeon. He was very pressing in his invitation, so one day we wended our steps thither at eleven o'clock. We were met by a smart-looking nurse, who told us that the doctor was at present engaged in an operation, and would be with us shortly. He soon appeared, and, apologising for the simplicity of the building, started taking us round. First he led us into the accident-room, where the injured are first treated. There were the usual operating-tables and cases of instruments. ”We treat wounds that are suppurating here,” he said pleasantly. ”Our real operating-room is in the other house, and is much better fitted up. This being the only hospital in the country I have all the operations to perform, generally one a day.”

Then we went into the Rontgen room. The X rays, the doctor informed us, was very useful in locating bullets. In the men's ward a young man was pointed out to us who had been shot twice during a kolo dance in the arm and leg.

”The Montenegrins,” said the doctor, ”are very careless when they fire their revolvers during a dance, and I get a good many patients that way.” Afterwards we visited some other wards, and we were finally taken to the other operating-room, or theatre. But it was only a reproduction of the other on a large scale. ”The Prince is very generous,” said the doctor, ”and gives me a free hand. We have every modern appliance, and I have trained my a.s.sistants to such an extent that I can absolutely rely on them. The hospital costs a lot of money, for we only charge a krone (about a franc) a day, and then they pet.i.tion that they cannot pay.”

After inscribing our names in a book we went back to our midday meal.

The hospital, from a medical and surgical standpoint, is extremely up to date, and at its head is a doctor who may be counted as one of the finest operators in Europe; at his own request his name has not been mentioned. It is another instance of Prince Nicolas' benevolence to his people, another of the progressive movements which he is ever introducing into the country. Every district has a doctor, all of whom are under the head doctor at Cetinje, who directs all treatment in the case of an epidemic. Serious cases are sent to Cetinje and treated there, but these are largely surgical. The fame of the doctor at Cetinje has reached the furthermost village; men who have suffered for years now troop joyfully to the capital, and the number of operations increases yearly.

May the hospital and its capable chief flourish and continue to bring the blessings of science to the worthy sons of the Black Mountain!

CHAPTER XXI

The Law Court in Cetinje--The Prince as patriarch--A typical lawsuit--Pleasant hours with murderers--Our hostel--A Babel of tongues--Our sojourn draws to a close--The farewell cup of coffee and apostrophe.

The Law Court in Cetinje is distinctly quaint. All civil cases are conducted in public, and the method of procedure is simplicity itself.[9] Firstly there are no lawyers and no costs, the rival parties conducting their case in person--that is to say, they are present, and are examined and cross-examined by the judge and his six a.s.sistants. All the preliminaries have been committed to writing and are read out by the clerk of the court, the only other official present. In a small inclosure sit the plaintiff and defendant and their witnesses; behind a railing, stand and sit the audience of admiring friends and relations.

[Footnote 9: This is all altered now since the end of 1902, when a new code and system was introduced, more up to date.]

The room is long and low. At the further end on a raised dais sits the judge, behind whom is a lifesize reproduction of the Prince's photograph. At a horseshoe-shaped table sit the other judges, three on each side, and in the middle is another table holding the Bible, crucifix, and two candles. The candles are lit when a witness takes the oath.

In the intervening s.p.a.ce is a large and comfortable easy-chair, or perhaps it would be more correct and dignified to call it a throne. It is occupied by Prince Nicolas whenever he comes in, as he often does, for an hour or so, for he takes a keen interest in the law cases of his subjects. When he is present the proceedings are in no way altered, but the Prince himself puts now and then a pertinent question to the witnesses. Furthermore, it is here that the Prince every Sat.u.r.day, when he is in residence in Cetinje, holds public audience and receives pet.i.tions and complaints from his lowliest subjects.

Every pet.i.tion must be committed to writing, and in the appointed order each man or woman steps forward while the doc.u.ment is read aloud by the clerk. The Prince puts a question or two to the pet.i.tioner and then gives his answer to the request, which is duly noted, and the next person called.