Part 8 (1/2)
The best makers carry different lengths of saddles in stock. The shortest measure eighteen inches from the front to the cantle, and the longest twenty-four inches. With each of these different lengths there are standard widths, and I cannot overstate the importance of a woman choosing a saddle that is suited to her conformation. On page 140 of this book will be found a diagram, with instructions for measurement, so that if a good maker is not available the saddle may be ordered by mail, but I would advise any woman who wishes to select a saddle to take some experienced woman rider with her to the saddler's and rely on her advice, as I have known many women to choose the wrong size of saddle and thus be rendered very uncomfortable. Trying a saddle in the shop is very different from riding in it on a horse, and it takes a great deal of experience to pick out what you require.
A side-saddle, in this country at least, costs quite a bit of money, but a good one, with proper care, will last for a lifetime, and, with a little adjustment, can be made to fit almost any horse. While there are hundreds of different makes of side-saddles on the market, the really good ones are very few.
[Ill.u.s.tration: LADY'S PARK AND HUNTING SADDLE]
The best English side-saddles are really in a cla.s.s by themselves, and no such saddles are made in this country except by the English saddlers, and they use only imported English pigskin. The English, whether imported or made here of English material, cost only a little more than the American saddles, and they are so far superior that there is no question in my mind but that they should be one's choice.
In its construction a woman's saddle differs from a man's. As it is made to sit on instead of to bestride, the seat is made as level as possible, and the best saddles have, if any, only a slight dip of, say, from one to one and a half inches. I find a saddle with this slight dip more secure for hunting and for riding very green horses, but the saddle should not have a greater dip than this, and many women find a level seat without any dip perfectly comfortable. I prefer a level saddle for all ordinary use, and the dip, if any, must come from the elevation of the cantle, and not from the hollowing out of the seat or from the elevation of the front. The old style side-saddle, with a ”dished out”
seat covered with doeskin, has been entirely abandoned, for the safety of the rider and the comfort of the horse.
The best makers use pigskin for covering the seats of nearly all their saddles. In France, however, many women use buckskin and some of these saddles are used in this country. In France these saddles are pipe-clayed and look very smart with a light habit, and if one is able to have two or more saddles in one's stable, I know of no objection to using this French type of saddle on occasion.
The saddle-flaps should also be made of genuine pigskin. Most makers use pigskin to cover the leaping iron and pommel. Some of the best saddles, however, have these covered with buckskin, which gives them a safer and more clinging feeling.
[Ill.u.s.tration: SIDE-SADDLE WITH WIDE POMMELS AND SAFETY FLAP
When the flap is raised the stirrup comes off]
The greatest improvement in the modern side-saddle is the cutting far back of the gullet plate, which leaves the withers covered only by the continuation of the near flap. This form of construction not only keeps the seat of the saddle level, but makes the rider much more comfortable, as it enables her to have her thigh horizontal instead of the knee being raised as it was in the old style of ”dished out” saddles with a high front. Moreover, it has the great advantage of freeing the horse's withers from pressure, and helps a bit toward keeping his back cool. The cooler the back is kept the freer it will be from soreness and chafing.
[Ill.u.s.tration: SIDE-SADDLE WITH NARROW POMMELS AND SAFETY FLAP UP]
[Ill.u.s.tration: SIDE-SADDLE WITH STIRRUP ADJUSTABLE FROM OFF SIDE]
The frame of the saddle is called the ”tree.” The tree of the standard saddles is of a standard width, and the fitting of the saddle to the horse's back is secured not from using different sized trees but by padding. Horses' backs differ greatly both in width and sharpness, so that the saddle should always be fitted to the particular horse on which it is to be most used. This should be done by an experienced and competent saddler, and a proper fit secured before the saddle is bought or accepted. With a properly fitted saddle, saddle pads and cloths should never be necessary. They look clumsy, they are liable to slip out of place, they collect sand and dirt, and even the best of them heat the horse's back. If some kind of saddle pad is required on account of a sore back, or an ill-fitting saddle, or if, for instance, one is using one's own saddle on a strange horse that it does not fit, by far the best pad to use is a sheepskin, cut the same size as the saddle and worn with the woolly side next to the horse's back. Sheepskins are readily washed and do not heat the horse's back nearly as much as the ordinary felt saddle pad.
[Ill.u.s.tration: THE SAME SIDE-SADDLE, OFF SIDE. SHOWING SPRING FLAP WHICH HOLDS FLAP UP OR DOWN AT WILL, PERMITTING RIDER TO ADJUST GIRTHS OR STIRRUP LEATHER WHILE MOUNTED]
Saddles are lined either with leather, with plain Holland linen, or with heavy white serge. Of the three I greatly prefer the leather because it is cooler for the horse's back, is more easily cleaned, looks far smarter, and is more durable. If the saddle fits the horse properly the leather lining will never rub him, but it must be kept soft by frequent oiling.
[Ill.u.s.tration: DIAGRAM FOR MEASURING SIDE-SADDLE]
In my opinion, linen is next best, but it does not wear as well as leather, and serge, which is in general use and is found in most saddles, is not as good a material for lining as either leather or linen. It is not durable, it becomes very dirty, it is hard to dry, and, unless it is kept clean and dry, it rubs the horse's back badly.
As a subst.i.tute for a leather lining and in order to prevent the serge lining from chafing a tender back, many riders adopt the expedient in vogue in India and use a leather saddle cloth called ”numnah.” These are good for use in hot weather and keep the horse's back much cooler than would the serge lining, and save chafing. They are cut the exact size of the saddle and fastened to it by straps which pa.s.s under the flap. They must be kept soft by constant oiling, otherwise they fail in their purpose.
[Ill.u.s.tration: 1. DOUBLE GIRTH]
[Ill.u.s.tration: 2. FITZ-WILLIAM GIRTH]
[Ill.u.s.tration: 3. CORDED GIRTH]
The girths are made either of webbing or of leather. The Fitz-William girth is the safest and neatest for a woman. This consists of one very broad girth, some five inches wide, with two buckles at each end which engage the two outside billets on either side of the saddle. This girth goes next to the horse's body, and another girth, about half as wide and a trifle shorter, pa.s.ses over the first girth--on which it is held in position by a leather loop just below the buckles--and terminates in a single buckle which engages the middle of the three billets on either side of the saddle.
The advantages of this type of girth are that it is very strong and safe, and it is much easier with it to girth the horse as tight as is necessary for the side-saddle than it is with two or three separate narrow girths, each independent of the other, such as are commonly used in livery stables and riding schools.
In girthing with the Fitz-William, first the wide girth is drawn tight, and then the narrow girth, and it will be found that the narrow girth can be tightened on the wide one so that, after it has been drawn, the wide one can be taken up two or three holes, and then the narrow one can be taken up again, and so the horse cannot, by inflating himself, prevent tight girthing.
For the show ring, for hunting, and for park riding the girths must be either of leather or of white webbing.
For country use brown webbing girths are permissible, but they never look well and are liked chiefly by lazy grooms.
Needless to say, white girths must be kept scrupulously clean and pipe-clayed.