Part 13 (1/2)

FRESH T TACCOZZE P PASTA WITH S SEA B Ba.s.s.

Taccuncill e San Pitre Serves 6 Serves 6 The Italian t.i.tle calls for John Dory as the fish, and by all means use it if you can find it, but otherwise sea ba.s.s will be just as delicious.

- 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 medium onion onion, chopped (about 1 cup) - 1 pound red potatoes red potatoes, peeled and cut in -inch cubes - 2 tablespoons tomato paste tomato paste - 2 medium stalks celery celery with leaves, chopped with leaves, chopped - 2 bay leaves bay leaves, preferably fresh - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 12 cups (3 quarts) cold water - 1 pound skinless sea-ba.s.s fillet sea-ba.s.s fillet, cut in 1-inch cubes - 2 ripe medium tomatoes tomatoes, cut in 1-inch cubes (about 3 cups) - 1 batch (1 pounds) Fresh Fresh Taccozze Taccozze RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A wide, heavy-bottomed saute pan or saucepan, 13-inch diameter, with a cover To make the sauce: Pour the olive oil into the big pan, set it over medium heat, and scatter in the onion. Cook, stirring, for 3 or 4 minutes, until it begins to soften. Toss in the potato cubes, stir with the onion, and spread them out in the pan; cook for 5 minutes or so, tumbling them over occasionally, until they start to caramelize and stick to the pan bottom. Clear a s.p.a.ce in the pan, and drop in the tomato paste; let it caramelize and toast in the hot spot for a minute, then stir together with the onion and potatoes.

Drop in the celery and bay leaves, sprinkle on the salt, stir, and get everything sizzling, then pour in the cold water. Stir up the vegetables, cover the pot, and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Adjust the heat to keep it bubbling nicely, and cook for 30 to 40 minutes, until the potatoes start to fall apart and thicken the sauce.

Drop in the cubes of fish and tomatoes, stir to distribute them, and heat the sauce back to an active simmer. Cook, uncovered, for 15 minutes or so, until the sea ba.s.s is cooked through and the tomatoes have softened and dissolved into the sauce.

Before cooking the taccozze taccozze-right in the sauce itself-I shake the diamond shapes by handfuls in a colander or strainer, removing excess flour. Then I drop all of the pasta at once into the simmering sauce. Stir and lift the taccozze taccozze with tongs, separating the flat pieces if they are stuck together. Cover the pan, and bring the sauce to a boil over high heat; cook the with tongs, separating the flat pieces if they are stuck together. Cover the pan, and bring the sauce to a boil over high heat; cook the taccozze taccozze for about 4 minutes, stirring frequently, until for about 4 minutes, stirring frequently, until al dente. al dente. Serve immediately in warm soup bowls. Serve immediately in warm soup bowls.

FRESH P PASTA S STRIPS (MALEFANTE) WITH B BEANS & B & BACON.

Malefante con f.a.gioli e Pancetta Serves 6 Serves 6 - FOR THE BEANS - pound dried cannellini beans cannellini beans (about 1 cups), rinsed and soaked overnight (about 1 cups), rinsed and soaked overnight - 3 bay leaves bay leaves, preferably fresh - 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - FOR THE SAUCE - 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 12 ounces slab or thick-cut bacon slab or thick-cut bacon, cut in -inch pieces - 7 plump garlic cloves garlic cloves, peeled and sliced - 3 large stalks celery celery with leaves, chopped with leaves, chopped - 3 tablespoons tomato paste tomato paste - FOR COOKING AND DRESSING MALEFANTE MALEFANTE - 1 batch (1 pounds) Fresh Fresh Malefante Malefante - Kosher salt for the pasta pot for the pasta pot - 1 cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A 3-quart pot for cooking the beans; a wide, heavy-bottomed saute pan or braising pan, preferably 14-inch diameter, with a cover; a large pasta-cooking pot Drain the soaked beans and put them in the pot with fresh cold water covering them by an inch or so; add the bay leaves and olive oil. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to keep the liquid simmering steadily, and cook, partially covered, about 40 minutes or until the beans are just cooked through, but not mushy. Turn off the heat, stir in teaspoon salt, and let the beans cool in the pot with the cooking liquid.

To make the sauce: Set the big pan over medium heat, and add the olive oil. Scatter in the bacon, and let cook until the fat has rendered, about 5 minutes. Add the sliced garlic, and let sizzle for a minute, then stir in the celery. Cook until the celery begins to soften, about 4 to 5 minutes.

Clear a s.p.a.ce in the pan, and drop in the tomato paste; let it caramelize in the hot spot for a minute or two, then stir the paste into the celery and bacon. Pour in the cooked beans with their cooking liquid, stir well, and pour in a cup or more of water to cover all the solids with enough sauce liquid. (If you want the dish to have a soupier consistency when finished, add 2 or more cups water now.) Bring the sauce to a simmer, and cook until the celery is tender and the beans are creamy, about 20 minutes, stirring in more water as needed to keep the beans and bacon immersed (or to maintain a soupier consistency). When the sauce is done, turn off the heat, and keep the sauce covered until you start cooking the malefante. malefante.

Meanwhile, as the sauce is cooking (or later if you prefer), fill the large pot with well-salted water and heat to a rolling boil. For a whole large batch of malefante malefante, heat at least 7 or even 8 quarts of water with 1 tablespoons salt.

Shake the malefante malefante by handfuls in a colander or strainer to remove the excess flour, then drop all the pieces into the boiling pasta water at the same time; stir and separate them with a spider or tongs so they don't stick together. Cover the pot, bring the water back to a boil over high heat, and cook the by handfuls in a colander or strainer to remove the excess flour, then drop all the pieces into the boiling pasta water at the same time; stir and separate them with a spider or tongs so they don't stick together. Cover the pot, bring the water back to a boil over high heat, and cook the malefante malefante, stirring frequently, for 4 minutes or so, until al dente. al dente. (If the sauce is off the heat, return it to the simmer now to dress the pasta.) (If the sauce is off the heat, return it to the simmer now to dress the pasta.) Lift out the malefante malefante with a spider, drain for a moment, and spill them into the simmering sauce, working quickly. Toss pasta and sauce until all the strips of pasta are coated. Adjust the consistency of the dish, adding more pasta water if you want it looser, or thickening it quickly over high heat. with a spider, drain for a moment, and spill them into the simmering sauce, working quickly. Toss pasta and sauce until all the strips of pasta are coated. Adjust the consistency of the dish, adding more pasta water if you want it looser, or thickening it quickly over high heat.

Turn off the heat, sprinkle a cup or so of grated cheese over the malefante malefante, and toss well. Heap it into warm pasta bowls, and serve immediately, with more cheese at the table.

SPAGHETTI WITH C CALAMARI, SCALLOPS & S & SHRIMP.

Spaghetti di Tornola Serves 6 Serves 6 For me, there's no better way to dress spaghetti than with a fresh seafood sauce. And this sauce, from the old fis.h.i.+ng port of Termoli in Molise, is as simple and delicious as any. In the restaurants by the docks in Termoli (near the old citadel called Tornola), just-caught seafood is served in a brodetto. brodetto. You eat the seafood, and then the kitchen will toss spaghetti into the sauce you've left in your bowl. In my version of You eat the seafood, and then the kitchen will toss spaghetti into the sauce you've left in your bowl. In my version of spaghetti di Tornola spaghetti di Tornola, the calamari, scallops, and shrimp are part of the pasta dressing, but you can eat the brodetto brodetto in separate courses, Termoli-style, if you like. In summer, I use my mother's home-grown, sun-ripened cherry tomatoes to make an exceptional sauce, but in winter, a couple of cups of canned plum tomatoes make a fine subst.i.tute. in separate courses, Termoli-style, if you like. In summer, I use my mother's home-grown, sun-ripened cherry tomatoes to make an exceptional sauce, but in winter, a couple of cups of canned plum tomatoes make a fine subst.i.tute.

- 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt, plus more for the pasta pot - pound medium calamari calamari, cleaned - pound sea scallops sea scallops (preferably ”dry,” not soaked in preservative) (preferably ”dry,” not soaked in preservative) - 1 pound large shrimp shrimp - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil, plus 2 tablespoons more for finis.h.i.+ng the pasta - 6 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and sliced cloves, peeled and sliced - 4 cups cherry tomatoes cherry tomatoes, halved; or 2 cups canned Italian plum tomatoes, crushed - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 1 pound spaghetti spaghetti - cup chopped fresh basil fresh basil - 1 tablespoon chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A large pot, 8-quart capacity, for cooking the pasta; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger Fill the large pot with salted water (at least 6 quarts water with 1 tablespoon salt), and heat to a boil.

To prepare the seafood: Cut the calamari bodies, including the tentacles, into -inch rings. Pull off the side muscle or ”foot” from the scallops and discard. Remove the sh.e.l.ls, tails, and digestive veins from the shrimp; rinse and pat dry.

Pour the olive oil into the skillet, set it over medium-high heat, scatter in the sliced garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, until it begins to sizzle and color, about 1 to 2 minutes. Dump in the cherry tomatoes, sprinkle on the teaspoon salt and the peperoncino, and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring and tossing tomatoes in the pan, until softened and sizzling in their juices but still intact.

Start cooking the pasta first and the seafood right after, so they are ready at the same time. Drop the spaghetti into the boiling water, stir, and return the water to a boil.

As it cooks, scatter the calamari rings and tentacles in the pan with the tomatoes, and get them sizzling over medium-high heat. Let the pieces cook for a minute or two, then toss in the scallops, and spread them out to heat and start sizzling quickly. After they've cooked for a couple of minutes, toss in the shrimp, ladle in a cup of boiling pasta water, stir the seafood and sauce together, bring to a steady simmer, and cook for 2 or 3 minutes, just until the shrimp turn pink and begin to curl.

As soon as the spaghetti is barely al dente al dente, lift it from the pot, drain briefly, and drop into the skillet. Toss the pasta and the simmering sauce together for a minute or two, until the spaghetti is nicely coated with sauce and perfectly al dente al dente, and the seafood is distributed throughout the pasta. Turn off the heat, sprinkle on the basil and parsley, and drizzle on another 2 tablespoons olive oil. Toss well, heap the spaghetti into warm bowls, giving each portion plenty of seafood, and serve immediately.

BRAISED O OCTOPUS WITH S SPAGHETTI.

Polpi in Purgatorio Serves 6 Serves 6 I love this simple method for cooking whole octopus so it explodes with flavor. You just put it in a heavy pan and let it cook very slowly (with only olive oil, sliced onions, and olives to season it) for a couple of hours. As it cooks, it releases all of its natural, tasty water, which serves as a braising liquid. Though the meat loses some volume, its flavor is retained in the liquid, which naturally cooks into a great dressing for spaghetti or other pasta. In this recipe, the meat is cut into chunks that are tossed with the spaghetti and cooking juices. For a special occasion, though, you can serve the whole octopus, uncut (or two smaller octopuses, as called for here). If you dress the spaghetti with the juices alone and set the octopus on top, with the tentacles curling around and under, it makes a beautiful presentation.

You can also serve this delectable cephalopod-either whole or cut into pieces-over freshly cooked soft polenta or slabs of grilled polenta. And any leftover octopus meat or sauce can be incorporated into a terrific risotto; with so much flavor in them, just a small amount of leftovers is all you'll need to make a great risotto for two.

- cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 large onions onions, thinly sliced (about 4 cups) - 2 cleaned octopuses octopuses (about 1 pounds each) (about 1 pounds each) - 1 cup Gaeta or other brine-cured black olives Gaeta or other brine-cured black olives, pitted - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt, plus more for the pasta pot - 1 pound spaghetti spaghetti - 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy saucepan, 4-quart capacity, with a cover; a large pasta-cooking pot; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger Pour 6 tablespoons of the olive oil into the saucepan, and set it over low heat. Scatter the onion slices over the bottom of the pan, and lay the octopuses on top. Scatter the olives over the octopuses, cover the pan, and let the octopuses heat slowly, releasing their liquid, and starting to cook in it. After an hour or so, uncover the pan and check to see that there is plenty of octopus liquid in the pan. If it seems dry, add 1 cup of water at a time. This recipe should yield 2 cups of sauce when the octopus is done.

Continue the covered slow cooking for another hour, until the octopuses are very tender. Start testing for doneness after 1 hours: stick the tines of a fork in the thickest part of each octopus; when the fork slides out easily, the meat is done.

Remove the octopuses from the pot, and let them cool slightly. To make a meaty octopus sauce, cut both octopuses into -inch chunks, skin and all (or you can leave the octopuses whole for serving). Measure the liquid remaining in the saucepan. Again, you should have about 2 cups total. If the volume is greater, return the juices to the saucepan and boil to reduce it. Put the cut octopus meat and the juices in the skillet for dressing the pasta.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil (at least 6 quarts water with 1 tablespoon salt). Drop in the spaghetti, stirring and separating the strands. Cover the pot, return the water to a boil over high heat, then set the cover ajar and cook the pasta until barely al dente. al dente.

As the spaghetti cooks, bring the octopus meat and sauce in the skillet to a rapid simmer; taste, and add teaspoon salt if needed (octopus is naturally salty). Stir in the parsley.

Lift the spaghetti from the pot, drain briefly, and drop it into the skillet. Toss the pasta and the simmering sauce together for a minute or two, until the spaghetti is nicely coated with sauce and perfectly al dente al dente, and the octopus chunks are distributed throughout the pasta. Turn off the heat, drizzle over the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, and toss again. Heap the spaghetti into warm bowls, making sure each portion gets plenty of octopus pieces, and serve immediately.

THREE M MEATS B BRAISED IN T TOMATOES WITH R RIGATONI.

Ragu Misto alla Molisana Makes meat to serve 6 to 8 and enough sauce for 2 pounds pasta Makes meat to serve 6 to 8 and enough sauce for 2 pounds pasta This is one of those bountiful braises that you make when you want to delight a big table of family or friends, offering them an a.s.sortment of tender meats and pasta dressed with the braising sauce. Like other slowly cooked braises, this gives you two courses from one saucepan. Serve pasta dressed with the meaty-tasting tomato sauce as a first course-there's enough to dress 2 pounds of rigatoni. And then serve the pork, veal, and sausage as a second course.

Of course, you don't have to serve it all for the same meal. Use half the sauce to dress a pound of pasta, freeze the rest, and you have a future meal all ready to go. And after serving the ragu ragu, take any leftover bits and pieces of meat, shred and chop them up, clean the meat from the veal-chop bone, and blend all of it in with any leftover sauce. I bet you'll have enough sauce with meaty morsels for a lasagna or other baked pasta-yet another meal from that one big braising pan.

- FOR COOKING THE MEATS AND SAUCE - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for finis.h.i.+ng - 6 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and sliced cloves, peeled and sliced - 2 large onions onions, chopped (about 3 cups) - 1 sprig fresh rosemary fresh rosemary - 1 bay leaf bay leaf, preferably fresh - 3 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - 2-pound chunk boneless pork b.u.t.t pork b.u.t.t - 1-pound veal shoulder chop veal shoulder chop - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 1 cup red wine red wine - 10 cups (three 28-ounce cans) Italian plum tomatoes plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, crushed by hand - 1 pound sweet Italian sausages sweet Italian sausages (without fennel seeds) (without fennel seeds) - FOR COOKING AND SERVING A PASTA COURSE - 2 pounds rigatoni rigatoni (or just 1 pound; see headnote) (or just 1 pound; see headnote) - 1 cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano- Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano- Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy saucepan, such as an enameled cast-iron French oven, 8-quart capacity, with a cover; a large pasta-cooking pot; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger Pour the olive oil into the big saucepan, and set it over medium heat. Scatter in the sliced garlic, let it sizzle and start to color for a couple of minutes, stir in the chopped onions, rosemary, and bay leaf, and season with 1 teaspoon of the salt. Cook for 7 or 8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onions are softened and translucent.

Season the pork and veal chop all over with 1 teaspoons salt. Push the onions to one side of the pot, and lay the meat pieces in the pan bottom. Brown the meats slowly, turning frequently so all sides are evenly colored, about 10 minutes in all. When the meats are nicely browned, sprinkle the peperoncino in the pan bottom to toast for a minute, then stir the onions back into the center of the pot, sc.r.a.ping up the meat juices.

Turn up the heat, pour in the red wine, bring to a boil, and cook until almost completely evaporated. Pour in the crushed tomatoes, slosh out the cans with 4 cups of cold water, and add that as well. Stir in the remaining teaspoon of salt. Cover the pan, and bring the sauce to a boil over high heat, then adjust the flame to keep a gentle, steady bubbling. Cook covered for an hour, stirring and turning the meat pieces over occasionally, then set the cover ajar to allow the sauce to reduce gradually as it bubbles away. Cook another hour, until the pork and veal are just tender, then drop in the sausages and continue simmering for another 45 minutes to an hour.

After nearly 3 hours of total braising, the meats should be extremely tender and readily broken apart; the sauce should be thick and flavorful. Check the concentration of the sauce during the long cooking: If it seems too thin, remove the cover altogether. If it's reducing too fast, cover the pan tightly and lower heat.

If you'll be serving the meats and dressing pasta right away, remove the meat to a warm platter, take out a couple of cups of sauce for the meat, and leave the rest in the big saucepan to dress pasta (about 8 cups sauce for 2 pounds rigatoni, or 4 cups sauce for 1 pound). If you'll be serving the meat and sauce later, leave them both in the saucepan to cool; refrigerate, or freeze for longer keeping.

To cook and dress rigatoni with sauce: fill the pasta pot with plenty of well-salted water (at least 6 quarts water with a tablespoon salt for 1 pound of rigatoni; 8 quarts and 1 tablespoons salt for 2 pounds), and heat to a rolling boil. Stir in the rigatoni, return the water to a boil, and cook until the pasta is just al dente. al dente.

Meanwhile, if you're using the sauce right away, bring it back to a simmer in the big saucepan or a big skillet, preferably 14 inches in diameter. If the sauce has cooled and thickened, loosen it with some of the pasta cooking water.

Lift the rigatoni out of the pot, drain briefly, and drop them into the sauce. Toss well for a minute or so, over low heat, until the rigatoni are nicely coated and perfectly al dente. al dente. Turn off the heat, sprinkle on the grated cheese, and toss again; if you like, drizzle on more olive oil, and toss that in as well. Serve the pasta right away, transferring it to a large warm bowl to serve family-style, or heaping it in individual warm pasta bowls. Serve immediately, pa.s.sing more cheese at the table. Turn off the heat, sprinkle on the grated cheese, and toss again; if you like, drizzle on more olive oil, and toss that in as well. Serve the pasta right away, transferring it to a large warm bowl to serve family-style, or heaping it in individual warm pasta bowls. Serve immediately, pa.s.sing more cheese at the table.

To serve the meat as a secondo secondo or main course: Slice the pork and veal. Pour the reserved sauce in a skillet, lay in the slices and sausages, and place over low heat until the meat is heated through. Serve on a warmed platter with some of the sauce, pa.s.sing the rest. or main course: Slice the pork and veal. Pour the reserved sauce in a skillet, lay in the slices and sausages, and place over low heat until the meat is heated through. Serve on a warmed platter with some of the sauce, pa.s.sing the rest.

Molise, the second-smallest region in Italy (after the Valle d'Aosta), is also its newest: until 1963, it was joined with Abruzzo. It has a relatively small economy, focusing on agriculture and, on the coast, fis.h.i.+ng.Campoba.s.so, the regional capital, has been destroyed by earthquakes throughout the ages, but the heart of the city, crowned by the ma.s.sive Castello Monforte, still boasts ancient churches and winding medieval roads; I am almost surprised, when walking a narrow Campoba.s.so alley, suddenly to spill out onto a large piazza with tall trees. It is through these streets that, in June, the region's most important festival, Sagra dei Misteri (Festival of Mysteries), makes its way, a winding parade of wooden religious symbols.Not far from Campoba.s.so is Saepinum Saepinum, a town founded by Samnites, a highly civilized people who predated the Romans. When the Romans themselves moved in, they built a theater and temples to Apollo and Jupiter, the remains of which can still be seen.Isernia, another ancient Roman city, boasts a Roman aqueduct and bridge, and its streets still follow the Roman grid network of cardo cardo and and dec.u.ma.n.u.s dec.u.ma.n.u.s, the two main intersecting streets. The elegant Fraterna Fountain reuses old Roman stonework and looks like a mini-palazzo, with six portico arches in front.I once went to Larino Larino in late May for the festival in honor of the town's patron saint, San Pardo. The whole town was decorated, and hundreds of carts, covered in handmade silk flowers, were pulled through the city streets by snow-white oxen. Larino's cathedral is one of the most ornate in Molise, and its amphitheater the oldest in all of Italy. in late May for the festival in honor of the town's patron saint, San Pardo. The whole town was decorated, and hundreds of carts, covered in handmade silk flowers, were pulled through the city streets by snow-white oxen. Larino's cathedral is one of the most ornate in Molise, and its amphitheater the oldest in all of Italy.Termoli is a busy port and one of Molise's best beach resorts. Its cathedral houses the relics of martyrs brought back to Termoli after the Crusades. The imposing castle, built in the thirteenth century by Frederick II, once protected Termoli from pirates and marauding Saracens (maybe they wanted their bones back). is a busy port and one of Molise's best beach resorts. Its cathedral houses the relics of martyrs brought back to Termoli after the Crusades. The imposing castle, built in the thirteenth century by Frederick II, once protected Termoli from pirates and marauding Saracens (maybe they wanted their bones back).Agnone is a musical town, famous for bells, from lowly cow bells to ornate pontifical bells. But I come to Agnone to see Luca Giordano's moving portrait of the Holy Family in the Church of San Marco. Like most of Giordano's paintings, it is an upward spiral of movement, all billowing robes and dramatic light. is a musical town, famous for bells, from lowly cow bells to ornate pontifical bells. But I come to Agnone to see Luca Giordano's moving portrait of the Holy Family in the Church of San Marco. Like most of Giordano's paintings, it is an upward spiral of movement, all billowing robes and dramatic light.Anyone who enjoyed Umberto Eco's Name of the Rose Name of the Rose will want to visit the will want to visit the Castel San Vincenzo Castel San Vincenzo, situated on a high plain with snow-covered mountains in the distance. Originally built to defend the Benedictines from the Saracens, the Castel contains the ninth-century Abbey of San Vincenzo al Volturno; its frescoes are a treat for the eye. In the Crypt of the Epiphany, you'll find the martyrdom of St. Stephen, but my favorite is the martyrdom of St. Lawrence, or San Lorenzo; he is being grilled at a very high temperature but merely appears to be sunbathing.Monteroduni wins the prize for Molise's most impressive castle, the Pignatelli. I love its square shape and four cylindrical towers, one on each corner. Built, destroyed, and rebuilt, the castle is at the apex of the town, and houses objects from the Pignatelli family, a museum devoted to local agricultural life. It even has an old torture chamber.-T wins the prize for Molise's most impressive castle, the Pignatelli. I love its square shape and four cylindrical towers, one on each corner. Built, destroyed, and rebuilt, the castle is at the apex of the town, and houses objects from the Pignatelli family, a museum devoted to local agricultural life. It even has an old torture chamber.-TANYA Overleaf: The town of Tursi in southeastern Basilicata

MY FRIEND FRANCO LUISI HAS BEEN INVITING ME FOR YEARS TO visit Lucania, his region, now called Basilicata, nestled in the instep of the foot of Italy. I did take a quick visit to Basilicata during one of my research trips to Puglia. I had gone to Altamura in search of the best bread in Italy, as claimed, when Franco came to meet me and swept me across the regional border into Basilicata. Matera was the first city where we stopped, and I knew then and there that this was a special place, a place somewhat forgotten, but once you crossed its borders there was no letting go. That visit led to many subsequent trips to this place of mystical landscapes and very special people-people who want you to love their land and the intense flavors of their foods. visit Lucania, his region, now called Basilicata, nestled in the instep of the foot of Italy. I did take a quick visit to Basilicata during one of my research trips to Puglia. I had gone to Altamura in search of the best bread in Italy, as claimed, when Franco came to meet me and swept me across the regional border into Basilicata. Matera was the first city where we stopped, and I knew then and there that this was a special place, a place somewhat forgotten, but once you crossed its borders there was no letting go. That visit led to many subsequent trips to this place of mystical landscapes and very special people-people who want you to love their land and the intense flavors of their foods.

My friend Franco had returned with his wife to live in San Martino d'Agri, in the middle of Basilicata, where he was born. Franco is a wine merchant who has made his home in the United States with his family for more than fifteen years, but the call of his Lucania was too compelling, so he returned to Italy to settle in Rome-close enough, since San Martino d'Agri is only four hours away.

With Franco, I explored the food bounty of this little-known and spa.r.s.ely populated region. The fare is pasta, vegetables, mountain cheeses such as pecorino and provola, and lamb and pork, plus a taste of fish in the coastal towns. But within this seemingly limited list there was a world of flavors to discover. Durum-wheat pasta, dry or freshly made, reigns; Bucatini with Sausage, Pasta with Baked Cherry Tomatoes, Ditalini with Broccoli di Rape Broccoli di Rape, Rigatoni with Lentils, and Fiery Maccheroni Maccheroni are just some of what I discovered and want to share with you. are just some of what I discovered and want to share with you.

One Sunday, Franco's sister Angela was unstoppable as she made for us ferricelli ferricelli, fresh pasta, which she rolled on a knitting needle and dressed with a sausage sauce; then lasagnelle lasagnelle, which she dressed with Sarconi beans and tomato. With her two forefingers she dragged the dough on a board to create raschiatelli raschiatelli, which looked like larger cavatelli, and she dressed them with broccoli di rape. broccoli di rape. The Sarconi beans, from the town of the same name, were especially memorable. These tender, meaty, plump white beans resembling canellini turned the The Sarconi beans, from the town of the same name, were especially memorable. These tender, meaty, plump white beans resembling canellini turned the lasagnelle lasagnelle dish into a rare treat. What was ever present in each one of these dishes was the dish into a rare treat. What was ever present in each one of these dishes was the diavollicchio diavollicchio, the local chili pepper, used mostly in powdered form. The best of these peppers come from Senise, a small town in the center of Basilicata, next to the Lago di Monte Cotugno. The cla.s.sic appetizer here is the Zafaran crusck. Zafaran crusck. And what would that be? Well, it's like a chip made with thin-skinned, tender peppers from Senise. First they are air-dried, then popped into hot oil to crisp, and they are eaten as a snack. And what would that be? Well, it's like a chip made with thin-skinned, tender peppers from Senise. First they are air-dried, then popped into hot oil to crisp, and they are eaten as a snack.

What I found amazing is that a sprinkle of the chili powder changed an otherwise mundane dish, such as boiled potatoes, into something festive. But also try tossing some fried fresh Senise peppers with boiled potatoes and you'll have another flavor revelation.

Even Franco got into the kitchen with his sister that Sunday during my visit, and showed me his favorite dish. He quickly sliced an abundant amount of garlic, let it cook in extra-virgin olive oil until golden, then turned off the heat and sprinkled one heaping teaspoon of the peperoncino powder into the hot oil, exclaiming, ”Alla Zift.” ”Alla Zift.” Now there is no such word in Italian, but he kept repeating it- Now there is no such word in Italian, but he kept repeating it-Zift, Zift-and I realized it was the sound that the pepper makes when it hits the hot oil. He dressed a pound of cooked pasta with that, and behold, the most delicious three-ingredient recipe I have ever tasted.