Part 11 (1/2)

Heat the tomato sauce in a small pot until bubbling, then turn off the heat and whisk in 2 tablespoons of b.u.t.ter until incorporated. Spread another 2 tablespoons of b.u.t.ter, or as needed, in the baking dish, coating the bottom and sides well.

To fill each scrippella: scrippella: Lay it flat, scatter about a tablespoon of chopped spinach in the center, and sprinkle tablespoon or so grated cheese on top. Fold the Lay it flat, scatter about a tablespoon of chopped spinach in the center, and sprinkle tablespoon or so grated cheese on top. Fold the scrippella scrippella in half and then into quarter-rounds. Repeat until all the in half and then into quarter-rounds. Repeat until all the scrippelle scrippelle are filled and folded. are filled and folded.

Spread cup of the tomato sauce in the bottom of the b.u.t.tered baking dish. Arrange the filled and folded scrippelle scrippelle in the dish in overlapping rows, with the pointed ends covered and the pretty fanlike edges visible. Spoon the remaining sauce on top of the in the dish in overlapping rows, with the pointed ends covered and the pretty fanlike edges visible. Spoon the remaining sauce on top of the scrippelle scrippelle, in streaks down the center of the rows-don't try to cover them completely. Sprinkle the remaining grated cheese (or a bit more if needed) lightly all over the top.

Cover the pan with aluminum foil, making sure the foil doesn't touch the cheese. Bake for about 15 minutes, remove the foil, and bake until the sauce is bubbling and the gratinato gratinato topping is golden and crispy, about 10 minutes more. Serve very hot, right from the dish. topping is golden and crispy, about 10 minutes more. Serve very hot, right from the dish.

SCRIPPELLE IN S SOUP, ABRUZZO-STYLEA delicious soup becomes a great dish when it gets the right garnish. In Abruzzo, cooks use scrippelle scrippelle to give their fine soups an extra dimension of taste, texture, and substance. to give their fine soups an extra dimension of taste, texture, and substance.A favorite technique (which I recommend to you) is to slice the scrippelle scrippelle into thin strips like pasta, let them dry, then drop them into soups (or into the bowl before the soup goes in) to become marvelous instant noodles. For even more flavor-and great crunch-fry these into thin strips like pasta, let them dry, then drop them into soups (or into the bowl before the soup goes in) to become marvelous instant noodles. For even more flavor-and great crunch-fry these scrippelle scrippelle ribbons until very crisp in a skillet, and use them as a garnish. ribbons until very crisp in a skillet, and use them as a garnish.Another wonderful method is to grate a bit of good pecorino over a round scrippella scrippella and fold it in quarters (just as the pancakes are folded for the spinach ca.s.serole). Place one of these packets in each bowl, pour over it the steaming soup, and serve. As I hope you will soon find, the pleasure of even the plainest broth is immeasurably increased through this simple touch. and fold it in quarters (just as the pancakes are folded for the spinach ca.s.serole). Place one of these packets in each bowl, pour over it the steaming soup, and serve. As I hope you will soon find, the pleasure of even the plainest broth is immeasurably increased through this simple touch.GET Y YOURSELF A C CHITARRA!Some of you are probably wondering, ”Do I really need an imported chitarra chitarra to make this to make this maccheroni maccheroni?” I say yes. You and your family will find it great fun to cut pasta dough through a chitarra chitarra and then enjoy the pleasures that only fresh homemade and then enjoy the pleasures that only fresh homemade maccheroni' maccheroni's distinctive textural character can give.Fortunately, it is now easy to find and purchase a st.u.r.dy chitarra chitarra (some made in Abruzzo) for under $50 in the United States. I recommend a traditional (some made in Abruzzo) for under $50 in the United States. I recommend a traditional chitarra chitarra, with two sets of strings on the frame, which allows you to cut very thin pasta strands (especially nice for cooking in soups) as well as perfect thick, four-sided maccheroni. maccheroni. Make them once, and I am certain you will use your Make them once, and I am certain you will use your chitarra chitarra often! (And remember that, just as a guitar needs to be tuned before playing, so does the often! (And remember that, just as a guitar needs to be tuned before playing, so does the maccheroni chitarra. maccheroni chitarra. Before each use, pluck on the strings and make sure they are taut and properly set in their notches on the Before each use, pluck on the strings and make sure they are taut and properly set in their notches on the chitarra chitarra frame. Most frame. Most chitarre chitarre have instructions for tightening the strings, usually a simple matter of turning the k.n.o.bs that hold them.) have instructions for tightening the strings, usually a simple matter of turning the k.n.o.bs that hold them.)If you don't yet have a chitarra chitarra, though, you can make the pasta dough, roll it, and cut strands with the cutting attachment of your pasta machine or by hand. And if you only have dry pasta, you can certainly use what you have in place of fresh maccheroni maccheroni with any of my sauce recipes. Spaghetti or linguine will always work well, and recently I've noticed that many top pasta manufacturers now make long dry ” with any of my sauce recipes. Spaghetti or linguine will always work well, and recently I've noticed that many top pasta manufacturers now make long dry ”spaghetti alla chitarra,” with thick, square-cut strands that resemble maccheroni maccheroni cut on a cut on a chitarra. chitarra. Although they will never replace homemade Although they will never replace homemade maccheroni maccheroni in my kitchen, they are a fine pasta to use in any of the recipes here. in my kitchen, they are a fine pasta to use in any of the recipes here.

HOMEMADE M MACCHERONI A ALLA C CHITARRA.

Makes about 1 pound, serving 6 as a primo primo or 4 as main dish or 4 as main dish The dough for maccheroni alla chitarra maccheroni alla chitarra has to be slightly firmer than usual for fresh pasta; it requires a bit more flour, so it will cut neatly when pressed against the has to be slightly firmer than usual for fresh pasta; it requires a bit more flour, so it will cut neatly when pressed against the chitarra. chitarra. If you have a kitchen scale, weighing the flour is best: start with 10 ounces of flour, equivalent to 2 cups of unsifted flour, slightly packed, and add more as needed. Though I always tell you that you can make fresh pasta dough by hand (because it is so easy!), here I recommend the food-processor method, to incorporate the greater amount of flour quickly. If you have a kitchen scale, weighing the flour is best: start with 10 ounces of flour, equivalent to 2 cups of unsifted flour, slightly packed, and add more as needed. Though I always tell you that you can make fresh pasta dough by hand (because it is so easy!), here I recommend the food-processor method, to incorporate the greater amount of flour quickly.

- 2 cups (10 ounces) all-purpose flour all-purpose flour, plus more as needed - 4 large eggs eggs - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt, plus more for the pasta pot RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor fitted with a steel blade; a pasta-rolling machine or wooden rolling pin; a wooden chitarra chitarra Measure 2 full cups of unsifted flour (or weigh out 10 ounces), and dump it all in the food-processor bowl; process for a few seconds to aerate.

Beat the eggs with the salt in a spouted measuring cup. With the food processor running, quickly pour in all the eggs through the feed tube. Process continuously, as a dough forms and gathers on the blade and cleans the side of the bowl. If the dough does not come together or clean the bowl after 30 seconds or so, stop the machine, sc.r.a.pe down the sides, and sprinkle in a couple of tablespoons more flour. Process for a few more seconds-and add more flour if necessary-until a fairly firm ball of dough forms.

Turn the dough out on a lightly floured surface, and knead by hand for a minute or more, until it is smooth and firm. If it's at all sticky, incorporate more flour as you knead. Press the dough into a disk, wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and let rest at room temperature for at least hour. (You can refrigerate the dough for up to a day, or freeze for a month or more. Defrost in the refrigerator, and return to room temperature before rolling.) Cut the dough in four equal pieces.

If using a pasta machine: Roll each piece through the machine at progressively thinner settings, to form long wide strips, about inch thick (no thinner) and as wide as your machine allows. If the strip grows longer than the strings of your chitarra, cut it crosswise into two shorter strips.

To roll by hand: Lightly flour the work surface and your rolling pin. Flatten each piece of dough into a rectangle with your palm, and roll it from the center, gradually lengthening it into a broad strip about inch thick. Don't roll the dough too thin or longer or wider than the strings of your chitarra.

To cut maccheroni: maccheroni: Lay a strip of dough over the strings of the Lay a strip of dough over the strings of the chitarra chitarra (on a two-sided (on a two-sided chitarra chitarra, use the more widely s.p.a.ced strings). Using gentle but constant pressure, roll your pin lengthwise up and down the pasta, so the strings cut it cleanly into strands of maccheroni maccheroni that fall onto the tray of the that fall onto the tray of the chitarra. chitarra. Dust the freshly cut strands with flour, and gather them into a loose nest on a floured tray. Cut all the strips into Dust the freshly cut strands with flour, and gather them into a loose nest on a floured tray. Cut all the strips into maccheroni maccheroni, and collect them in floured nests. Leave the tray uncovered at room temperature until you are ready to cook the pasta.

To cook a whole batch of maccheroni: maccheroni: Bring to boiling a large pot of well-salted water (at least 6 quarts with a tablespoon or more of salt). Using your hand or a colander, shake excess flour off the nests of Bring to boiling a large pot of well-salted water (at least 6 quarts with a tablespoon or more of salt). Using your hand or a colander, shake excess flour off the nests of maccheroni maccheroni, and drop them into the pot. Stir and separate the strands as the water returns to a rolling boil, then cook the pasta for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until al dente. al dente. (See the many sauce recipes that follow for instructions on dressing (See the many sauce recipes that follow for instructions on dressing maccheroni alla chitarra. maccheroni alla chitarra.) To freeze the cut maccheroni: maccheroni: Set the whole tray in the freezer. When the nests are solid, seal them in airtight plastic bags and pack in a container, so they don't get crushed. (Frozen Set the whole tray in the freezer. When the nests are solid, seal them in airtight plastic bags and pack in a container, so they don't get crushed. (Frozen maccheroni maccheroni can be dropped right into the pasta cooking pot; stir gently to separate the strands as they soften.) can be dropped right into the pasta cooking pot; stir gently to separate the strands as they soften.) Clockwise from top left: Nidi Nidi (nests) of (nests) of maccheroni alla chitarra; maccheroni alla chitarra; cutting the cutting the maccheroni maccheroni on the on the chitarra; chitarra; a hungry Abruzze eating his a hungry Abruzze eating his maccheroni maccheroni THE P PRIDE OF A ABRUZZO:MACCHERONI A ALLA C CHITARRA.

Though many distinctive foods of Abruzzo are relatively little known outside of the rugged region, the fresh egg pasta called maccheroni alla chitarra maccheroni alla chitarra is famous all over Italy and beyond. No doubt it is primarily known for the unique way it is made: sheets of rolled-out pasta are pressed against the taut strings of a is famous all over Italy and beyond. No doubt it is primarily known for the unique way it is made: sheets of rolled-out pasta are pressed against the taut strings of a chitarra chitarra-a guitar-and fall apart into long strands.

This cutting method is not just a charming old custom, however. The chitarra chitarra makes pasta strands that, when cooked, have wonderfully satisfying texture and substance. In my opinion, this sensation of mouth-feel is one of the great gustatory pleasures, and makes pasta strands that, when cooked, have wonderfully satisfying texture and substance. In my opinion, this sensation of mouth-feel is one of the great gustatory pleasures, and maccheroni alla chitarra maccheroni alla chitarra provides it in every bite. provides it in every bite.

The Abruzzesi are unabashed in their enjoyment of their signature pasta (which they always call maccheroni maccheroni, never spaghetti alla chitarra spaghetti alla chitarra), cooking it up for quick dinners and grand holiday meals. And if they don't have time to make it themselves, they'll buy a fresh-cut batch from a small local pastificio pastificio, or pasta shop, on the way home.

In these pages, I'm giving you a taste of this rich regional pasta tradition with the preceding recipe for homemade maccheroni alla chitarra maccheroni alla chitarra, as well as a variety of typical dressings, both simple, uncooked condiments and more elaborate cooked sauces. These are but a small sample of the many maccheroni maccheroni dishes you'll find in Abruzzo, enough to provide you with many fine meals and, I hope, spark your own creativity with one of the world's great pastas. dishes you'll find in Abruzzo, enough to provide you with many fine meals and, I hope, spark your own creativity with one of the world's great pastas.

UNCOOKED O OLIVE O OIL S SAUCEThe resourceful cooks of Abruzzo are never at a loss for quick and delicious ways to dress maccheroni alla chitarra maccheroni alla chitarra or the excellent dry pastas made in the region. As these recipes for uncooked dressings show, they can take whatever's on hand-locally pressed olive oil, a few cloves of garlic, their beloved hot pepper, a cl.u.s.ter of fresh herbs, a pinch of saffron, a handful of nuts, or other native ingredients-and produce a wonderful sauce in minutes. or the excellent dry pastas made in the region. As these recipes for uncooked dressings show, they can take whatever's on hand-locally pressed olive oil, a few cloves of garlic, their beloved hot pepper, a cl.u.s.ter of fresh herbs, a pinch of saffron, a handful of nuts, or other native ingredients-and produce a wonderful sauce in minutes.The foundation for these simple sauces-and the endless variations you might enjoy in Abruzzo-is the distinctive fruity olive oils of the region. Extra-virgin oils from the provinces of Teramo, Pescara, and Chieti have achieved DOP (name-protected) status and are available here. Certainly these superb oils will give your maccheroni maccheroni (or other pasta) a truly authentic Abruzzese flavor, but any top-quality Italian extra-virgin olive oil will make a delicious sauce, too. (or other pasta) a truly authentic Abruzzese flavor, but any top-quality Italian extra-virgin olive oil will make a delicious sauce, too.Please don't limit your enjoyment of these sauces to pasta, because they are marvelously versatile condiments for meats, fish, poultry, and vegetables, too. They need only a whirl in the food processor and they will keep for weeks. I hope you try them all!

BASIL, PARSLEY & W & WALNUT P PESTO.

Pesto di Noci e Basilico Makes about 1 cups, enough for a pound of Makes about 1 cups, enough for a pound of Maccheroni alla Chitarra Maccheroni alla Chitarra (preceding recipe) or other pasta (preceding recipe) or other pasta This distinctively flavored pesto is a superb dressing for maccheroni alla chitarra maccheroni alla chitarra, spaghetti, or linguine, or a short dry pasta such as gemelli, lumache, or rigatoni. It's a great condiment, too: put a spoonful on fish or chicken hot off the grill for a real treat. Make extra pesto when basil and parsley are plentiful, in summer, and freeze it in small containers to use through the winter.

- 1 cups loosely packed fresh basil fresh basil leaves leaves - 1 cup loosely packed fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley leaves leaves - 4 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled cloves, peeled - 2 cups walnut walnut halves or pieces, toasted halves or pieces, toasted - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil, plus a bit more for storing - TO DRESS THE PASTA - 1 cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano- Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano- Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor If you're using the pesto right away to dress maccheroni alla chitarra maccheroni alla chitarra (or other pasta), heat a large pot of salted water to a boil before processing the sauce. (or other pasta), heat a large pot of salted water to a boil before processing the sauce.

To make the pesto: Heap the basil, parsley, garlic, walnuts, and salt into the food processor. Pulse several times, to chop everything together coa.r.s.ely, then, with the machine running, pour in the cup olive oil in a slow, steady stream. Stop and sc.r.a.pe down the sides of the work bowl, and process to a uniformly fine bright-green pesto.

Put all the pesto into a large, deep bowl, big enough to toss all the pasta in. Meanwhile, start cooking the maccheroni maccheroni or other pasta. Shortly before it is done, ladle cup or so of the boiling pasta water into the bowl, and stir to warm and loosen the pesto-use only as much water as needed to bring the pesto to tossing consistency. or other pasta. Shortly before it is done, ladle cup or so of the boiling pasta water into the bowl, and stir to warm and loosen the pesto-use only as much water as needed to bring the pesto to tossing consistency.

When the maccheroni maccheroni is perfectly is perfectly al dente al dente, lift it from the pot with tongs and a spider, drain it for an instant, then drop it into the bowl. Toss the pasta and sauce together thoroughly. Sprinkle a cup or so of grated cheese over it, then toss again. Serve immediately in warm bowls, with more cheese at the table.

To store and use the pesto later: Sc.r.a.pe it from the food processor into a small jar or container. Smooth the top surface, and cover it with a thin layer of olive oil or a piece of plastic wrap to prevent discoloration. Refrigerate for a week, or freeze for several months; warm to room temperature before using.

PARSLEY S SAUCE WITH F FRESH R RIPE T TOMATOES.

Pesto di Prezzemolo con Pomodori Freschi Makes enough parsley sauce (with or without tomatoes) for a pound of Makes enough parsley sauce (with or without tomatoes) for a pound of Maccheroni alla Chitarra Maccheroni alla Chitarra or other pasta or other pasta This recipe actually gives you two flavorful sauces, to use as a dressing for pasta or to give a fresh accent to all sorts of dishes, from steamed vegetables to roasted meats. The basic sauce is a simple, loose parsley pesto, quite good and easily whipped up any time of year. In summer, I cut ripe, sweet tomatoes into small pieces and mix them into the pesto. The juices and flesh of the tomatoes merge with the parsley sauce, creating a new dressing with multiple dimensions of flavor and texture.

- 2 cups loosely packed fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley leaves leaves - 3 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled cloves, peeled - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes or to taste or to taste - 1 or 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 pounds ripe tomatoes tomatoes, either full-sized or cherry tomatoes - TO DRESS THE PASTA - 1 cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor) (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor) RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor To make the basic sauce: Put the parsley leaves, garlic, peperoncino, and 1 teaspoon salt in the food-processor bowl. Pulse several times to chop the leaves coa.r.s.ely, then, with the machine running, pour in all the olive oil in a steady stream. Stop and sc.r.a.pe down the sides of the work bowl, and process to a fine-textured, very loose pesto. Use this parsley sauce right away to dress pasta or as a condiment. To store, sc.r.a.pe the sauce into a small container, cover the top surface with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for a day (or freeze for later use; defrost at room temperature).

For parsley sauce with tomatoes: Prepare the tomatoes before processing the basic sauce. For full-sized round tomatoes, cut out the cores, slice the tomatoes in half, and squeeze out the seeds, then cut the flesh into 1-inch chunks. For cherry tomatoes, simply slice them in half. Put all the cut tomato pieces in a deep bowl, and toss with 1 teaspoon kosher salt. Let the tomatoes sit for a few minutes to release their juices while you process the parsley sauce, as detailed above. Pour the freshly made parsley sauce over the cut tomatoes, and toss together well. Use within an hour or two. If it waits longer the freshness and bright color of the parsley vanishes.

To dress the pasta with either the basic parsley sauce or the parsley-tomato sauce: Put the sauce in a bowl big enough for tossing. Cook the pasta until al dente al dente-take some of the boiling pasta water to loosen the parsley sauce only if it seems too dense to toss. When the maccheroni maccheroni is done, drain and drop it into the bowl with the sauce. Toss well, then sprinkle over it a cup or so of grated cheese, and toss again. Serve immediately in warm bowls, with more cheese at the table. is done, drain and drop it into the bowl with the sauce. Toss well, then sprinkle over it a cup or so of grated cheese, and toss again. Serve immediately in warm bowls, with more cheese at the table.

Crocus flowers after the saffron stigmas have been plucked by hand THE R RARE S SAFFRON OF A ABRUZZO:ZAFFERANO D'AQUILAWhat made my visit to the saffron-producing region of Abruzzo particularly exciting was learning that the threads gathered there are considered one of the finest saffron varieties in the world. Grown only in a handful of highland fields in and around Navelli, the zafferano d'Aquila zafferano d'Aquila (saffron from Aquila) is prized for its intense fragrance, flavor, and color. (saffron from Aquila) is prized for its intense fragrance, flavor, and color.

As I learned from Silvio Sarra, the wonderful man who welcomed me to the harvest, the high quality of zafferano d'Aquila zafferano d'Aquila was recognized as early as the thirteenth century, when the saffron crocus was introduced to Navelli. Soon traded all over Europe, the spice became a mainstay of the region's economy, and for seven centuries, hundreds of acres of crocuses were cultivated in Aquila Province. During the twentieth century, though, changing world markets nearly wiped out Navelli's saffron industry, with its labor-intensive methods and high costs. was recognized as early as the thirteenth century, when the saffron crocus was introduced to Navelli. Soon traded all over Europe, the spice became a mainstay of the region's economy, and for seven centuries, hundreds of acres of crocuses were cultivated in Aquila Province. During the twentieth century, though, changing world markets nearly wiped out Navelli's saffron industry, with its labor-intensive methods and high costs.

However, there were some who did not want the crocus fields and the saffron of Aquila to disappear. Silvio Sarra himself, along with other local farmers determined to save their agricultural traditions, continued to grow and harvest saffron. Together they established a consortium to preserve the uniqueness of zafferano d'Aquila zafferano d'Aquila, ultimately earning a DOP designation, which protects the crop's cultivation zone, methods, and standards. We hope the Consortium for the Protection of Zafferano d'Aquila will allow us to enjoy this precious culinary commodity for generations to come.

I am happy to tell you that genuine Aquila saffron is now imported and sold here. Because of its scarcity, though, you can expect it to be considerably more expensive than other saffrons. Lower-priced good-quality saffron will certainly work fine in my recipes, but now that you know about zafferano d'Aquila zafferano d'Aquila, I think that you will find it well worth its price. Just a few fragrant threads will impart great flavor to your dishes, and they'll connect you to the beautiful plains of Navelli, where they were grown.

A SAFFRON S SECRETI learned this little trick about enhancing the aroma of saffron from the elders in Navelli who cook with the saffron that they produce. Carefully drop the saffron strands (as much as the recipe calls for) into a metal spoon. Hold the spoon over a low open flame for just a few seconds, toasting the threads very gently-the perfume will tell you it's working! Before they overheat, spill the threads out of the spoon into a bowl for steeping or grinding, as called for in the recipe.

Gina and Silvio Sarra and neighbor picking saffron threads SAFFRON-INFUSED O OLIVE OIL.

Infusione di Zafferano, Prezzemolo, ed Olio d'Oliva Makes about cup, enough for a pound of Makes about cup, enough for a pound of Maccheroni alla Chitarra Maccheroni alla Chitarra or other pasta or other pasta Just a small amount of saffron can imbue extra-virgin olive oil with the spice's captivating perfume and distinctive flavor. This versatile condiment is a great way to bring a light and seductive touch of saffron to your dishes, without overwhelming them. It makes a delicious (and colorful) dressing for maccheroni alla chitarra maccheroni alla chitarra or other pasta, or to season almost any mild-flavored dish. or other pasta, or to season almost any mild-flavored dish.

- 1 teaspoon loosely packed toasted saffron saffron threads threads - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 3 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley - TO DRESS THE PASTA - 1 cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A mortar and pestle or spice grinder; a minifood processor Put the toasted saffron threads into the mortar or spice grinder, and pulverize to a powder.

Pour the olive oil and the salt into a small mixing bowl. Add the crushed saffron. Rinse the mortar with a tablespoon of hot water, collecting any remaining bits of ground saffron, and pour that into the saffron oil. Whisk to mix thoroughly.

If you are not using the saffron oil right away, transfer the oil to a small container and let it infuse at room temperature for at least hour. Shortly before using, whisk chopped parsley into the oil. (To store the oil-preferably before adding parsley-cover the container and refrigerate for up to a week.) To dress maccheroni alla chitarra maccheroni alla chitarra (or other pasta) with the saffron oil: Cook the pasta in a large pot of salted water until (or other pasta) with the saffron oil: Cook the pasta in a large pot of salted water until al dente. al dente. Drain the cooked Drain the cooked maccheroni maccheroni, and drop the strands into a big warm bowl, drizzle the oil all over the top, and toss well (and quickly) to coat all the strands of pasta with golden oil. Sprinkle over it a cup or so of grated cheese, and toss again. Serve immediately in warm bowls, with more cheese at the table.

OLIO S SANTO, a HEAVENLY S SPICY O OLIVE O OIL C CONDIMENT One reason I feel such an affinity for the cooking of Abruzzo is the generous use of peperoncino-hot red chili pepper, fresh or dried. Lavish spiciness is typical of southern Italian cuisines, and although I am from the north, I love it, and it makes me feel right at home.The Abruzzesi refer to their favorite red chilis as diavolicchio, diavolillo diavolicchio, diavolillo, or diavolino diavolino-all of which mean ”little devil”-and when you taste them you'll know why. Often, these devilish peperoncini are steeped in olive oil, creating a spicy-hot condiment called olio santo olio santo or ”holy oil.” If you love heat, a drizzle of this oil makes a good dish more heavenly. or ”holy oil.” If you love heat, a drizzle of this oil makes a good dish more heavenly.Olio santo is an indispensable condiment in Abruzzo, set on the table so that everyone can regulate the level of heat in a dish to his or her own taste. Whether it's a soup, a pasta, or a main dish, if you want more heat, all you need to do is sprinkle over it a teaspoon of holy oil, give it a stir, and get immediate results. is an indispensable condiment in Abruzzo, set on the table so that everyone can regulate the level of heat in a dish to his or her own taste. Whether it's a soup, a pasta, or a main dish, if you want more heat, all you need to do is sprinkle over it a teaspoon of holy oil, give it a stir, and get immediate results.To make your own olio santo olio santo, pour a cup of good extra-virgin olive oil into a gla.s.s jar, and drop in a teaspoon of kosher salt and 2 tablespoons of small whole dried peperoncini, about ten little peppers. Cover tightly, and let the oil infuse at room temperature for at least 2 days. Give it a good shake, and use. Store in the sealed jar, in a cool place, for a month or more.(If you are a peperoncino-lover, too, be sure to try the heavenly pasta from Basilicata, Fiery Maccheroni Maccheroni. Its peperoncino-paste dressing is also a hot all-purpose condiment.) MACCHERONI WITH F FRESH L LEMON & C & CREAM.

Maccheroni all'Agro Serves 6 as a first course or 4 as a main course Serves 6 as a first course or 4 as a main course Agro means ”sour,” and in this refres.h.i.+ng and fast pasta sauce, there's plenty of lively acidity: white wine, freshly squeezed lemon juice, and grated lemon zest. These are nicely balanced with b.u.t.ter and cream, and all the cooking takes barely 5 minutes-less than the time you need to cook your means ”sour,” and in this refres.h.i.+ng and fast pasta sauce, there's plenty of lively acidity: white wine, freshly squeezed lemon juice, and grated lemon zest. These are nicely balanced with b.u.t.ter and cream, and all the cooking takes barely 5 minutes-less than the time you need to cook your maccheroni alla chitarra. maccheroni alla chitarra. Be sure that Be sure that all all your ingredients are ready-and the pasta water is at the boil-when you start cooking the sauce. Best with your ingredients are ready-and the pasta water is at the boil-when you start cooking the sauce. Best with maccheroni alla chitarra maccheroni alla chitarra, this dressing is also delicious with fresh tagliatelle or dry spaghetti or linguine.

- 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - Finely grated zest of 2 lemons lemons (about 4 teaspoons) (about 4 teaspoons) - 1 cup dry white wine dry white wine - Juice of 2 lemons lemons, freshly squeezed (about cup) - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - 1 cup heavy cream heavy cream - FOR COOKING AND FINIs.h.i.+NG THE PASTA - 1 batch (1 pound) Homemade Homemade Maccheroni alla Chitarra Maccheroni alla Chitarra or other pasta or other pasta - 1 cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing - Extra-virgin olive oil, best-quality, for serving RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A large pot, 8-quart capacity, for cooking the pasta; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger To cook the maccheroni: maccheroni: heat a large pot of well-salted water (6 quarts or more) to the boil. heat a large pot of well-salted water (6 quarts or more) to the boil.

Drop the b.u.t.ter into the big skillet, and set it over medium heat. As the b.u.t.ter melts, scatter in the grated lemon zest; stir it around until sizzling. Pour in the white wine and lemon juice, add the salt, stir, and bring the liquids to a bubbling simmer. Cover the skillet, and let cook for a couple of minutes.

Uncover the pan, and slowly pour in the cream, whisking it steadily into the simmering wine and lemon juice. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquids reduce to a saucy consistency you like, 2 or 3 minutes more.

After whisking in the cream, start cooking the pasta. Shake excess flour off the fresh maccheroni maccheroni, and drop it into the boiling water, stirring to separate the strands. Return the water to a rolling boil, and cook the pasta for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, just until al dente. al dente.

With the lemon-and-cream sauce at a simmer, quickly lift out the maccheroni maccheroni and drop it all into the skillet. Toss the pasta until well coated, loosening the sauce with a few spoonfuls of hot pasta-cooking water if needed. and drop it all into the skillet. Toss the pasta until well coated, loosening the sauce with a few spoonfuls of hot pasta-cooking water if needed.

Turn off the heat, sprinkle a cup or so of grated cheese over the maccheroni maccheroni, and toss well. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil, toss again, and heap the pasta in warm bowls. Serve immediately, with more cheese at the table.

MACCHERONI WITH Z ZUCCHINI.

Maccheroni all'Aquilana Serves 6 as a first course or 4 as a main course Serves 6 as a first course or 4 as a main course In this recipe, careful cooking brings out the wonderful flavor of fresh zucchini to make a lovely dressing for maccheroni maccheroni (or other pasta). Select small, firm zucchini, though-preferably right from the garden!-and if you can, pick, or purchase, zucchini flowers at the same time. They make the dish especially festive. (or other pasta). Select small, firm zucchini, though-preferably right from the garden!-and if you can, pick, or purchase, zucchini flowers at the same time. They make the dish especially festive.