Part 13 (2/2)
But one of the most entertaining items was the obstacle race, and considering, as I said before, the small s.p.a.ce at the committee's command, several severe obstacles had been placed in the way of the compet.i.tors. Eighteen entered for this race. First, half a pound of pudding, minus anything oleaginous, and a basin of water was administered to each. At a given signal the ”gorging” commenced. He who first got outside his ”duff and water” started, and so on with the next.
One would scarce believe with what incredible rapidity that pudding was metamorphosed. The next obstacle to be surmounted was a huge balk of timber raised at the ends, about a foot off the ground, under which the coursers were compelled to _crawl_. A row of eighteen barrels, with the ends knocked out, came next; then a climb up slack ropes, and over a transverse bar; and finally another balk of timber--if anything less than a foot off the ground--under which they had to squeeze and wriggle in the best manner possible.
As a finale to our excellent programme, the most amusing and entertaining thing of all was yet to be carried out. A stunsail boom had been rigged out over the caisson, and rendered extremely fit for pedestrianism by plentiful libations of slush and soft soap. At the extreme end a basket containing, in the words of the programme, ”a little pig” was slung. About thirty men stood to the front, as would-be possessors of ”porcus.” Each of the thirty, as valiant heroes as ever trod a plank or fisted handspike, tried and failed--and tried again with a like unsatisfactory result. Piggy still lay nestled in his swinging stye. True, once or twice he had c.o.c.ked out his head with an enquiring squeal as the pole now and then received an extra hard shake, making the foundations of his house rather insecure. The affair was at length decided in an unlooked-for manner. As the thirty could not get the pork out, the latter took the initiative and got out himself--of course falling overboard, where he was secured by an amphibious sailor below.
As the time antic.i.p.ated had not been consumed in the pork affair, a tug-of-war between the fore and aft men was decided on; and as it is a generally understood thing that our men can pull on occasions, a four-and-half hemp hawser was hauled to the front, experience having proved that ropes of lesser diameter are like as much tow in their hands. As no prize could be conveniently awarded for this, about six dollars' worth of that ambiguous compound, known as gingerbread, was supplied and laid on a piece of canvas in a formidable heap within view of the antagonists, with the intention that the winners might regale themselves afterwards. But this highly laudable and very proper intention was frustrated, for the _losers_ happening to be nearest the heap took base advantage of their proximity to pillage the store, which, by the aid of a score or so of j.a.panese imps, in all manners of reversible att.i.tudes in the crowd, they managed to raze to its foundations. So ended one of the most enjoyable days of the commission.
By the way I must not omit to mention that the ubiquitous ”Aunt Sally,”
of immortal memory, was present on the occasion, and contributed the usual amount of sport.
October 14th.--By midnight, all hands having relegated themselves to the close embraces of the sleepy G.o.d, a terrible din and an unusual alarm was circulated throughout the s.h.i.+p. At first, in our semi-wakeful state, and before we could adjust our ideas, we had the most confused notions of what was the matter. Most thought that the sh.o.r.es under the s.h.i.+p's bottom had carried away, and that we had fallen over on our bilge; and, strange to say, in our imaginary terror our eyes seemed to convey that impression. The ominous word ”fire!” followed by the maddening unmusical efforts of a crazed bell, reduced all this din and uncertainty to a logical something. But where was it? What was on fire, the s.h.i.+p?
Fortunately no; but a fire so close to the s.h.i.+p that she was in imminent danger of taking the flames every minute. Ahead of us, and within a biscuit's throw of our flying boom, a long shed containing kerosene and other inflammables had taken fire, but how does not so clearly appear.
But that doesn't matter. In a moment there was a general conflagration.
It burst out with sudden and alarming fierceness, threatening speedily to overwhelm the whole yard.
Our captain's first consideration was the safety of his s.h.i.+p. To this end the dock was flooded, and pumps rigged on board in readiness for any possible eventuality; for, though we were not in immediate contact with the danger, yet it was so unpleasantly hot on our top-gallant forecastle, and such quant.i.ties of sparks and lumps of burning wood were so constantly lodging on our tarry ropes and rigging, that there was no saying how soon we too might add to the general glare.
The means for putting out fires in j.a.pan are, as everybody knows, of the most simple and primitive kind. But simple and ineffective as their method is, we were compelled to adopt it until there should be a sufficiency of water in the dock to enable us to work our pumps. One would have thought that in a Government yard like this the machinery for pumping out the dock might have been utilized for such a purpose.
Possibly if fires were of less frequent occurrence amongst the j.a.panese this plan might be considered.
After the s.h.i.+p had been attended to we next turned our attention to the fire. From the first we saw it was useless to attempt its subjugation, even had we the ordinary appliances at hand, so our efforts were mainly directed to the prevention of its spreading to another shed standing near, containing vitriol, and to the preservation of a stack of huge balks of timber, adjoining the burning shed. We succeeded in the former, but the timber proved too c.u.mbrous to be interfered with, and it was not until four o'clock in the morning that the fire was got under--or rather, burnt itself out is, I suppose, the more correct expression.
After a good hour and half's delay a j.a.panese fire brigade arrived on the scene. The appearance of this body of men was such that they claim a few words of description. They were attired in tight-fitting blue garments, and mushroom-shaped hats of bamboo, with each an umbrella over his shoulder, the use of which will become apparent directly. Before the cortege marched a man blowing a large conch, which emitted, not ”the murmur of the sh.e.l.l,” but a much more ear-splitting music. Next to him came a personage bearing the insignia--I suppose we must term it--of the brigade. This affair reminded me of nothing at home so much as the stall or stand of the itinerant vendor of boot and corset laces in our streets, the laces in this case being represented by strips of gilded leather, and surmounted by a ball, on which was traced a great character in gold, signifying fire, in the language of the children of the ”rising sun.” Then followed their box-like engine, borne on bamboos across the shoulders of the main body. Notwithstanding the ludicrousness of the whole cavalcade, the men set to work most energetically, and displayed that dash and intrepidity of conduct for which the j.a.panese are famed, and which must eventually raise them to the dominance of the peoples of the far east. Right into the midst of the fire dashed these fellows, their only shelter from the fierce glare being the before-mentioned umbrellas. These frail shades, though made only of paper, seemed to answer the purpose admirably.
October 26th.--Left for Wosung, anchoring in the Yang-tsze, after a quick run of four days across the Yellow Sea. We are to await here the arrival of the flying squadron. Meanwhile an opportunity was given us of visiting the great European metropolis of China. The ”Foxhound” was ordered down from Shanghai, and converted into a pa.s.senger steamer, for the benefit of our s.h.i.+p's company. Shanghai at this time offered plenty of scope for enjoyment to sailors. The city is divided into three princ.i.p.al parts or ”concessions”--English, French, and American--the English being far more extensive than the other two combined, and much more beautiful, with clean broad streets, houses like palaces, and shops which would do no discredit to Regent street or the Strand. The great attraction was the races, held outside the city, on the Nankin Road, near which is an extensive race-course.
Of the native city--well--perhaps the less said the better. It is full of the foulest filth and abominations in which it is possible for even a Chinaman to exist. I will not afflict my readers with a description of its horrors; it would scarcely be fit reading for our friends. Fever and plague are ever rife within the city gates, a fact so well established that the European residents never visit this quarter. We had not been warned of this, however, and the result was that some of our men, who had weakened their systems with poisonous liquor, fell victims to some disease very like cholera, which in two cases proved fatal within twenty-four hours. I trust these awfully terrible examples were not without their lesson to us. (s.h.i.+pmates, there is a higher aspiration within the reach of every sailor than that of blindly devoting himself to the service of the ”boozy” G.o.d, a self-immolation which leaves no enjoyment--no healthy enjoyment, I mean--to its devotees. It must be, and I know it is so, that every one such feels ashamed of himself afterwards, and calls himself by hard but honest adjectives when the ”bad head” period comes on.) I am thankful to state that our other cases recovered, though not until almost all hope had well-nigh gone.
November 22nd.--To-day the long-expected flying squadron arrived, and took up positions ahead of us. The following s.h.i.+ps comprised it--”Inconstant” (flag), ”Bacchante,” ”Cleopatra,” ”Tourmaline,” and ”Carysfort.”
For days past much activity has existed amongst the junk fleet in this neighbourhood. Dozens of these trim-built and picturesque-looking craft have lately acc.u.mulated here to give the princes a proper reception. Day after day they have duly gone through some extraordinary and to us meaningless evolutions, all flags, gongs, yells, and gunpowder.
November 24th.--Leaving the squadron to the joy and festivities of Shanghai, once more we head for Hong Kong. We thought then it was for the last time; but hopes have been shattered so frequently of late that we were not prepared to bet on it.
Whilst at anchor, awaiting the tide to cross the outer bar, our attendant pilot boat came to grief under our bows. Everybody who knows anything of Chinese rivers--of the Yangtsze in particular--will have often remarked how great a velocity the current attains at near low water, making boating alongside a s.h.i.+p an almost impossible and extremely hazardous proceeding. The water hisses, seethes, and boils past the sides as if the s.h.i.+p was under weigh in a heavy sea; thus when the little vessel reached our bows there was nothing to save her.
Fortunately she came down upon us in such a manner that she escaped with the loss of mainmast and sail, whilst a little damage was done to our head-gear in the scrimmage.
November 30th.--Again the well-known rig of the Canton fis.h.i.+ng junks heaves in sight, and ere long the equally well-known outline of Victoria Peak, the most welcome sight on the station, after all said and done. In a few hours that prince of b.u.mboat men, old Attam, had paid us a visit, giving us a kindly welcome, with his good-tempered, ever-smiling, and flat celestial face.
December 20th.--To-day at noon the flying squadron came in from the northward. Their arrival was awaited by eager and expectant crowds thronging the sh.o.r.e, in antic.i.p.ation of witnessing the landing of the young royal middies. In this they were disappointed. The same absence of ceremony and reserve was to be observed here, with respect to the queen's grandsons, as was recently followed out in Shanghai, and which gave so much umbrage to the residents of that city. It was soon officially known that whilst staying at Hong Kong, the princes would be publicly recognised simply as ”mids.”
The Europeans and other foreign residents were quite prepared to do the honors handsomely, had things been ordered differently. These shortcomings were however amply compensated for by the magnificence of the Chinamen. It did not signify to them as to _how_ the princes were to be treated; to them they were the queen's grandsons, mids.h.i.+pmen or not.
The two nights immediately preceding Christmas Day were devoted to the grandest display of fireworks and illuminations I have ever witnessed, and which, possibly, few men see but once in a lifetime. All accounts of China agree that in the pyrotechnic art the Chinese stand alone, unequalled.
We have all, no doubt, been struck when reading of the wonderful changes of form a.s.sumed by their fireworks in the air. This, like many other descriptions about this people, is rather misleading. What actually does take place I will endeavour to show; only bear in mind the most perfect description must fall far short of the startling reality.
In the present instance two skeleton, tower-like structures of bamboo were erected in the soldiers' drill ground, and within this simple framework all the business was to be transacted. Seats for the accommodation of the governor and other high functionaries, and for the leading Chinese, were set up at a convenient distance, whilst the respectable public were permitted within the enclosure. For several hours before dusk, relays of coolies had been bearing into the open s.p.a.ce curious-looking b.a.l.l.s of wicker, innocent of anything like the gorgeous things they really were. At sunset the programme opened. One of the b.a.l.l.s was hoisted to the top of a tower, and set fire to in its ascent, so that by the time it had reached its highest alt.i.tude it was all one blaze. But behold the change! so sudden and brilliant that a shout expressive of admiration was involuntarily sent up by the sea of faces around. In place of the h.o.m.ogenous ball, hundreds of small figures of mandarins and ladies, some seated at tables, some riding on mules, others playing at shuttlec.o.c.k or flying kites, and all clothed in the most beautiful garments, and around which innumerable squibs were hissing and cracking, revealed themselves to our astonished gaze.
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