Part 11 (1/2)
And now came April 15th, not so rapidly as would appear from the above sketch; but it came, and with it the commencement of a second voyage to the northward.
In the interval between the sailing of the ”Tyne” and our departure we were not idle. We had gone outside twice--once at target practice and once on steam tactics. The ”Armide,” French flag-s.h.i.+p, had left for Europe, and her relief, the ”Themis,” had arrived on the station, losing several sheets of copper off her starboard bow on the pa.s.sage up from Singapore.
It is curious to observe the different customs of foreign sailors when sailing, homeward bound. The French, for instance, rig up a dummy man and trice him up to the main top, where he is made to oscillate with a pendulum movement until he gains sufficient impetus to clear the side, when he is let go overboard amidst the cheering of the men. The Russians man yards, white caps in hand, which, after waving in the air to make their cheering more energetic, they fling into the sea.
But to return to April 15th.--We had but cleared Hong Kong when we sighted the ”Charybdis,” with the long pennant flying. Fortunate fellows! how long, I wonder, before we shall be similarly decorated? I write this almost three years afterwards, and still the question remains unanswered.
On the way we put in to White Dogs, in expectation of finding the ”Vigilant” with our mail. The mails latterly have been very erratic in their arrivals, due to a change in the postal system at home. Henceforth there is to be no penny mail--a fact which, seemingly, our friends have not yet grasped; hence it is no uncommon thing to go weeks without letters, and then suddenly to find oneself inundated with--say six or eight _billets doux_.
The ”Vigilant” was only a few hours behind us; and after giving us our mail she left for Foo-chow, with the admiral and captain on board.
That night we rode out a very stiff gale. The seas were so heavy that all ports had to be barred in, and even then, such was the violence of the storm that water was occasionally s.h.i.+pped through the upper battery ports. From the manner in which the cable ”surged” and b.u.mbed, it was deemed expedient to let go a second anchor, and to get up steam; for in the event of the wind chopping around--nothing more likely--we should be on a dead lee sh.o.r.e, and our only alternative to slip and go to sea.
Still the gale increased, and still the one anchor and cable held. How the wind did howl and screech through our cordage! This lasted for over two days. On the third day the ”Moorhen” came down from Foo-chow with our captain; and as there was still a big lump of a sea on, she capered about in the lively manner peculiar to gun vessels.
April 21st.--We rounded the Shun-tung promontory in a thick fog, groped our way towards Chefoo in the same hazy atmosphere, and picked up our anchorage in nearly the same spot as last year, glad enough to get in anywhere out of such dangerous weather.
The cutter's crew of the ”Pegasus,” a day or two after our arrival, reminded us of a challenge they had previously thrown out, to pull any boat of similar size in our s.h.i.+p for forty-five dollars. Accordingly, one fine afternoon when the sea was as smooth as a pond, and on the occasion of a dance given by our officers, the contest came off.
Contrary to the expectations of most, our boat beat almost without an effort. That same evening the ”Lily's,” with more pluck than discretion, tossed their oars under our bows. Well, like a great good-tempered Newfoundland dog, we can stand a deal of snapping at from insignificant puppies, but when at length their attacks begin to get acrimonious, we rise, and shake our s.h.a.ggy coat; and in salt water language ”_go_” for the torments. Thus we ”_went_” for the ”Lily's,” beat them, and pocketed thirty-six dollars more.
On the arrival of the admiral a court-martial was held on a marine, of the ”Mosquito,” for insubordination. I mention this because of the extreme sentence of the court--twenty-five lashes with the ”cat.” The admiral, though, came to the rescue, and with mercy seasoned justice, for he refused to sign the warrant for the punishment.
We left Chefoo for j.a.pan, calling in at the Golo islands--a group about 90 miles from Nagasaki--on the way. 'Twas a lovely spot, and recent rains had made nature look all the fairer for her ablutions. The gentle breeze wafted off such a delightful fragrance of pine, fir, hay, and flowers, so welcome after China's reeking smells. Slowly, and with caution, we wended our way up an intricate channel, meandering amongst the hills in a most striking and artistic manner, until further progress was barred, by the sh.o.r.es of a tiny bay, with a town at its head. We found ourselves so perfectly land-locked that everybody was wondering how we got in. Around us high volcanic hills, and under us,--not a volcano--but, between twenty and thirty fathoms of water. We could not anchor here, that was evident, so we set the spanker, slued about, and made tracks as rapidly as we could before the darkness should set in.
Next morning we were at Nagasaki.
Early on the morning of the 29th of May we sailed for the eastward, by way of the Inland Seas. We turned slightly out of our course to call at Yobuko, a real bit of j.a.pan, lovely and enchanting. We were objects of absorbing interest to the simple islanders. They wore very primitive and airy garments, some even none at all. They are not much like, in fact very unlike, a community of j.a.panese; for cleanliness amongst them is an ”unknown quant.i.ty;” and their dwellings remind me very forcibly of the squalid dens in Chinese native towns. The people, though, were hospitable and kind to a degree, and highly glad to see us, offering us of their little sake and tea--nor would they take money, or accept any payment, though we pressed it upon them. At first they were shy, following us about in curious, respectful, distant crowds; but seeing we treated their chubby little children kindly they soon made friends with us.
We reached Kobe in due course where nothing of moment took place, if we except a gale of wind which compelled our liberty-men--_much against their will_, of course--to remain on sh.o.r.e all night. ”Well '_'tis_ an ill wind that blows _n.o.body_ good,' is it not?”
July 2nd.--We are at Yokohama, and are a-taut; for to-day some members of the j.a.panese imperial family are to visit us. At noon they arrived amidst salvoes of artillery from the sh.o.r.e and from the j.a.panese men-of-war. The party consisted of prince Arisugawa's father and sister, her maids of honor, and two admirals. The princess was of course the ”lion”--excuse the gender--of the party. But how lost, how utterly bewildered, she looked in reaching our quarter-deck! like little Alice in wonderland. I hear it is the first time she has ever been afloat.
Her style of dress is different to anything we have yet seen in this country. A red silk skirt clothed her lower limbs, whilst a transparent gauzy purple tunic, figured with the imperial emblem, fell from her shoulders to the ground. But her hair was what drew most of our attention, for it was the most remarkable piece of head architecture possible. How shall I describe it? Imagine a frying-pan inverted, its inner rim resting on the crown of the head, and the handle depending down the back, and you will have a correct, though a homely idea, of the fas.h.i.+on of her hair. Each individual hair seemed as if picked out from it fellows, stiffened by some process until it appeared like a wire bent into shape; gathered in and tied a little below the nape of the neck, and from thence downward traced into a queue. Hers was the ideal type of j.a.panese feature, so rarely seen amongst the common people, and considered so unlovely by Europeans. A long face, narrow straight nose, almond eyes, very obliquely set in the head, and a mouth so tiny, so thin the upper lip, that it looks more like a scarlet b.u.t.ton than any thing designed for kissing.
She was childishly pleased at everything she saw whilst accompanying the admiral around the decks, twitching at his arm incessantly that she might indulge her curiosity as to hatchways, stoke-hole gratings, and so on; clapping her hands continually in the exuberance of her joy.
The ”Modeste” accompanied us in our trip to the north on this occasion.
A few days out we called in at Kamais.h.i.+, in the neighbourhood of which are the imperial copper mines and smelting works. The people here lack the rosiness and freshness of face of the j.a.panese, and have a dowdy, sickly look, due, I suppose, to the unhealthy exhalations from the copper.
Instead of calling in at Hakodadi we continued on along the eastern coast of Yezo until we reached Endermo harbour, sentinelled at its entrance by a grim vomiting volcano which, in addition to its charred and fire-scored crater, has innumerable other little outlets in its sides, giving out jets of steam and sulphurous smoke until the very air is loaded with the oppressive vapour.
At the anchorage we saw the ”Pegasus.”
Here we are then! in the country of Miss Bird's Anos, a people whom she describes as the most gentle and docile in the world. We had ample opportunity of making their acquaintance, for during our stay the decks were daily thronged with them. In these men the advocates of Darwinism might well behold the missing link. From head to heel they are covered with thick s.h.a.ggy unkempt ma.s.ses of hair; that on their heads and faces hanging down in wild elfish locks. They wear but scant raiment, a sort of over-all, which does not pretend to the use of even the most primitive covering. It is of the men I speak. Strangely enough, though, they all have their ears pierced, metal ornaments are not worn by any, but, instead, they have a thin strip of scarlet cloth, just simply placed through the hole. The women are strange looking creatures. Their garments are modest enough, far more so even than those of their southern sisters with whom, by the way, they have nothing in common, save their s.e.x. Can it be that this is the primitive j.a.panese race--that the more enlightened people of Niphon trace their origin to such a degraded source? I should be inclined to say no, if I did not remember that history furnishes us with so many parallel cases of similar degraded origin--our own for example.
Well built, but oh! so ugly these women; and, as if nature had not done enough for them in this particular, they render their faces still more repulsive looking by tattooing the lips on the outside to the depth of an inch all around, elongating the mark at the corners. This, of course, does not tend to lessen the apparent size of an aperture, already suggestive of a main hatchway. This unhandsome, open, flat countenance, is also further decorated with bands of blue on the forehead. The females wear large rings of iron--some few of silver--in their ears.
Now, though of course I don't pretend to the faithfulness of portraiture, nor to the accuracy of observation of the travelled lady I have before quoted, yet I must add that my estimate of this people, in my own small way, is antagonistic to hers. To me they are only a very little removed from savages. Their women seem to be in abject slavery to the men, and are treated by them in the most shameful manner. An instance, which came under my own observation, will perhaps shew this.
Whilst on sh.o.r.e fis.h.i.+ng, I had wandered away from the main party to where I saw a native engaged at work on an upturned canoe. Up the beach was his hut--I have seen many a stye a king to it--and in the doorway his--wife must I call her? Curious I suppose like all her s.e.x she came down the strand to get a look at the white-skinned, light-haired stranger, and was rewarded for temerity in a most summary manner. The man, at first, seemed to expostulate with her, and so far as I could judge, ordered her back to her domicile; but as the lady did not seem prompt to obey the mandate, he further emphasised his meaning and accelerated her movements by flinging a billet of wood at her with all the irresponsible and unrestrained force of a savage nature. In the face of this can I agree with Miss Bird? My first feeling was one of indignation and an angry twitching of my ten digits to form themselves into bunches of fives, but on second thoughts, seeing that the poor woman took the chastis.e.m.e.nt as a matter of course, and that she was seemingly used to such like gentle reminders, my indignation cooled down to matter of fact surprise.
This place is the exile home of one of the banished damios I spoke of in a former chapter.
From Endermo we retraced ours steps to Hakodadi, where, during a short stay, we had some amus.e.m.e.nt in the shape of messes pulling for bags of ”spuds” (the potatoe of the non-sailor world) and other comestibles.