Part 4 (2/2)
Another variety is called the ”table cut,” and is used for coloured stones. It has a flat top or ”table” of a square or other shape, the edges of which slope outwards and form the ”bezils” or that extended portion by which the stone is held in its setting. It will thus be seen that the outside of the stone is of the same shape as that of the ”table,” but larger, so that from every portion of the ”table” the surface extends downwards, sloping outwards to the extreme size of the stone, the underside sloping downwards and inwards to a small and flat base, the whole, in section, being not unlike the section of a ”pegtop.”
A modification of this is known as the ”step” cut, sometimes also called the ”trap.” Briefly, the difference between this and the last is that whereas the table has usually one bevel on the upper and lower surfaces, the trap has one or more steps in the sloping parts, hence its name.
The most common of all, and usually applied only to the diamond, is the ”brilliant” cut. This is somewhat complicated, and requires detailed description. In section, the shape is substantially that of a pegtop with a flat ”table” top and a small flat base. The widest portion is that on which the claws, or other form of setting, hold it securely in position. This portion is called the ”girdle,” and if we take this as a defining line, that portion which appears above the setting of this girdle, is called the ”crown”; the portion below the girdle is called the ”cula.s.se,” or less commonly the ”pavilion.” Commencing with the girdle upwards, we have eight ”cross facets” in four pairs, a pair on each side; each pair having their apexes together, meeting on the four extremities of two lines drawn laterally at right angles through the stone. It will, therefore, be seen that one side of each triangle coincides with the girdle, and as their bases do not meet, these s.p.a.ces are occupied by eight small triangles, called ”skill facets,” each of which has, as its base, the girdle, and the outer of its sides coincides with the base of the adjoining ”cross facet.” The two inner sides of each pair of skill facets form the half of a diamond or lozenge-shaped facet, called a ”quoin,” of which there are four. The inner or upper half of each of these four quoins forms the bases of two triangles, one at each side, making eight in all, which are called ”star facets,” and the inner lines of these eight star facets form the boundary of the top of the stone, called the ”table.” The inner lines also of the star facets immediately below the table and those of the cross facets immediately above the girdle form four ”templets,” or ”bezils.” We thus have above the girdle, thirty-three facets: 8 cross, 8 skill, 4 quoin, 8 star, 1 table, and 4 templets.
Reversing the stone and again commencing at the girdle, we have eight ”skill facets,” sometimes called the lower skill facets, the bases of which are on the girdle, their outer sides forming the bases of eight cross facets, the apexes of which meet on the extremities of the horizontal line, as in those above the girdle. If the basal lines of these cross facets, where they join the sides of the skill facets, are extended to the peak, or narrow end of the stone, these lines, together with the sides of the cross facets, will form four five-sided facets, called the ”pavilions”; the s.p.a.ces between these four pavilions have their ends nearest the girdle formed by the inner sides of the skill facets, and of these s.p.a.ces, there will, of course, be four, which also are five-sided figures, and are called ”quoins,” so that there are eight five-sided facets--four large and four narrow--their bases forming a square, with a small portion of each corner cut away; the bases of the broader pavilions form the four sides, whilst the bases of the four narrower quoins cut off the corners of the square, and this flat portion, bounded by the eight bases, is called the ”culet,” but more commonly ”collet.” So that below the girdle, we find twenty-five facets: 8 cross, 8 skill, 4 pavilion, 4 quoin, and 1 collet.
These, with the 33 of the crown, make 58, which is the usual number of facets in a brilliant, though this varies with the character, quality, and size of the diamond. For instance, though this number is considered the best for normal stones, specially large ones often have more, otherwise there is danger of their appearing dull, and it requires a vast amount of skill and experience to decide upon the particular number and size of the facets that will best display the fire and brilliance of a large stone, for it is obvious that if, after months of cutting and polis.h.i.+ng, it is found that a greater or smaller number of facets ought to have been allowed, the error cannot be retrieved without considerable loss, and probable ruin to the stone. In the case of the Cullinan diamonds, the two largest of which are called the Stars of Africa, 74 facets were cut in the largest portion, while in the next largest the experts decided to make 66, and, as already pointed out, these stones are, up to the present time, the most magnificent in fire, beauty and purity ever discovered.
The positions and angles of the facets, as well as the number, are of supreme importance, and diamond cutters--even though they have rules regulating these matters, according to the weight and size of the stone--must exercise the greatest care and exact.i.tude, for their decision once made is practically unalterable.
CHAPTER XII.
IMITATIONS, AND SOME OF THE TESTS, OF PRECIOUS STONES.
We now arrive at the point where it is necessary to discuss the manufacture and re-formation of precious stones, and also to consider a few of the tests which may be applied to _all_ stones. These are given here in order to save needless repet.i.tion; the tests which are specially applicable to individual stones will more properly be found under the description of the stone referred to, so that the present chapter will be devoted chiefly to generalities.
With regard to diamonds, the manufacture of these has not as yet been very successful. As will be seen on reference to Chapter II., on ”the Origin of Precious Stones,” it is generally admitted that these beautiful and valuable minerals are caused by chemically-charged water and occasionally, though not always, high temperature, but invariably beautified and brought to the condition in which they are obtained by the action of weight and pressure, extending unbroken through perhaps ages of time.
In these circ.u.mstances, science, though able to give chemical properties and pressure, cannot, of course, maintain these continuously for ”ages,” therefore the chemist must manufacture the jewels in such manner that he may soon see the results of his labours, and though real diamonds may be made, and with comparative ease, from boron in the amorphous or pure state along with aluminium, fused in a crucible at a high temperature, these diamonds are but microscopic, nor can a number of them be fused, or in any other way converted into a large single stone, so that imitation stones, to be of any service must be made of a good clear gla.s.s. The gla.s.s for this purpose is usually composed of 53.70 per cent. of red lead, 38.48 per cent. of pure quartz in fine powder, preferably water-ground, and 7.82 per cent. of carbonate of potash, the whole coloured when necessary with metallic oxides of a similar nature to the const.i.tuents of the natural stones imitated. But for colourless diamonds, the gla.s.s requires no such addition to tint it.
From the formula given is made the material known as ”stra.s.s,” or ”paste,” and stones made of it are mostly exhibited under and amongst brilliant artificial lights. The mere fact that they are sold cheaply is _prima facie_ proof that the stones are gla.s.s, for it is evident that a diamond, the commercial value of which might be 50 or more, cannot be purchased for a few s.h.i.+llings and be genuine. So long as this is understood and the stone is sold for the few s.h.i.+llings, no harm is done; but to offer it as a genuine stone and at the price of a genuine stone, would amount to fraud, and be punishable accordingly. Some of these ”paste,” or ”white stones,” as they are called in the trade, are cut and polished exactly like a diamond, and with such success as occasionally to deceive all but experts. Such imitations are costly, though, of course, not approaching the value of the real stones; it being no uncommon thing for valuable jewels to be duplicated in paste, whilst the originals are kept in the strong room of a bank or safe-deposit.
In all cases, however, a hard file will abrade the surface of the false stone. In chapter VII. we found that quartz is in the seventh degree of hardness, and an ordinary file is but a shade harder than this, so that almost all stones higher than No. 7 are unaffected by a file unless it is used roughly, so as to break a sharp edge. In order to prepare artificial diamonds and other stones for the file and various tests, they are often what is called ”converted” into ”doublets” or ”triplets.”
These are made as follows: the body of the gla.s.s is of paste, and on the ”table” (see last chapter), and perhaps on the broader facets, there will be placed a very thin slab of the real stone, attached by cement.
In the case of the diamond, the body is clear, but in the coloured imitations the paste portion is made somewhat lighter in shade than the real stone would be, the portion below the girdle being coloured chemically, or mounted in a coloured backing. Such a stone will, of course, stand most tests, for the parts usually tested are genuine.
A stone of this nature is called a ”doublet,” and it is evident that when it is tested on the underside, it will prove too soft, therefore the ”triplet” has been introduced. This is exactly on the lines of the doublet, except that the collet and perhaps the pavilions are covered also, so that the girdle, which is generally encased by the mounting, is the only surface-portion of paste. In other cases the whole of the crown is genuine, whilst often both the upper and lower portions are solid and genuine, the saving being effected by using a paste centre at the girdle, covered by the mounting. Such a stone as this last mentioned is often difficult to detect without using severe tests and desperate means, e.g.:--(a) by its crystalline structure (see Chapter III.); (b) by the cleavage planes (see Chapter IV.); (c) by the polariscope (see Chapter V.); (d) by the dichroscope (see Chapter VI.); (e) by specific gravity (see Chapter VIII.); (f) cutting off the mounting, and examining the girdle; (g) soaking the stone for a minute or so in a mixture said to have been originally discovered by M. D. Rothschild, and composed of hydrofluoric acid and ammonia; this will not answer for all stones, but is safe to use for the diamond and a few others. Should the jewel be gla.s.s, it will be etched, if not completely destroyed, but if genuine, no change will be apparent; (h) soaking the diamond for a few minutes in warm or cold water, in alcohol, in chloroform, or in all these in turn, when, if a doublet, or triplet, it will tumble to pieces where joined together by the cement, which will have been dissolved. It is, however, seldom necessary to test so far, for an examination under the microscope, even with low power, is usually sufficient to detect in the gla.s.s the air-bubbles which are almost inseparable from gla.s.s-mixtures, though they do not detract from the physical properties of the gla.s.s. The higher powers of the same instrument will almost always define the junction and the layer or layers of cement, no matter how delicate a film may have been used. Any one of these tests is sufficient to isolate a false stone.
Some of the softer genuine stones may be fused together with splinters, dust, and cuttings of the same stones, and of this product is formed a larger stone, which, though manufactured, is essentially perfectly real, possessing exactly the same properties as a naturally formed stone. Many such stones are obtained as large as an ordinary pin's head, and are much used commercially for cl.u.s.ter-work in rings, brooches, for watch-jewels, scarf-pins, and the like, and are capable of being cut and polished exactly like an original stone. This is a means of using up to great advantage the lapidary's dust, and though these products are real stones, perhaps a little more enriched in colour chemically, they are much cheaper than a natural stone of the same size and weight.
Some spurious stones have their colour improved by heat, by being tinged on the outside, by being tinted throughout with a fixed colour and placed in a clear setting; others, again, have a setting of a different hue, so that the reflection of this shall give additional colour and fire to the stone. For instance, gla.s.s diamonds are often set with the whole of the portion below the girdle hidden, this part of the stone being silvered like a mirror. Others are set open, being held at the girdle only, the portion covered by the setting being silvered. Other gla.s.s imitations, such as the opal, have a tolerably good representation of the ”fiery” opal given to them by the admixture, in the gla.s.s, of a little oxide of tin, which makes it somewhat opalescent, and in the setting is placed a backing of red, gold, copper, or fiery-coloured tinsel, whilst the gla.s.s itself, at the back, is painted very thinly with a paint composed of well washed and dried fish-scales, reduced to an impalpable powder, mixed with a little pure, refined mastic, or other colourless varnish. This gives a good imitation of phosph.o.r.escence, as well as a slight pearliness, whilst the tinsel, seen through the paint and the curious milkiness of the gla.s.s, gives good ”fire.”
A knowledge of the colours natural to precious stones and to jewels generally is of great service in their rough cla.s.sification for testing, even though some stones are found in a variety of colours. An alphabetical list of the most useful is here appended, together with their average specific gravities and hardness. (See also Chapter VII. on ”Hardness,” and Chapter VIII. on ”Specific Gravity.”)
WHITE OR COLOURLESS STONES.
_Hardness._ _Specific Gravity._ (See Chapter VII.) (See Chapter VIII.)
Beryl 7-3/4 2.709-2.81 Corundum 9 3.90-4.16 Diamond 10 3.502-3.564 Jade 7 3.300-3.381 Opal 5-1/2-6-1/2 2.160-2.283 Phenakite 7-3/4 2.965 Quartz 7 2.670 Rock-crystal 7 2.521-2.795 Sapphire 9 4.049-4.060 Spinel 8 3.614-3.654 Topaz 8 3.500-3.520 Tourmaline 7-1/4 3.029 Zircon 7-1/2 4.700-4.880
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