Part 14 (2/2)

[52] PLAIN DUMPLING WITH BROTH _ISICIUM SIMPLEX_

TO 1 ACETABULUM [1] OF STOCK [2] ADD 7 OF WATER, A LITTLE GREEN CELERY, A LITTLE SPOONFUL OF GROUND PEPPER, AND BOIL THIS WITH THE SAUSAGE MEAT OR DUMPLINGS. IF YOU INTEND TAKING THIS TO MOVE THE BOWELS THE SEDIMENT SALTS [3] OF HYDROGARUM HAVE TO BE ADDED [4].

[1] A measure, 15 Attic drachms.

[2] _liquamen_.

[3] Tor. _pectines, alias peces hydrogaro conditi_; List. _sales_; G.-V. _faeces_.

[4] V. The formula is unintelligible, like No. 52 and others, perhaps just another example of medicinal cookery, dishes not only intended to nourish the body but to cure also certain ills. Authors like Hannah Wolley (The Queen-like Closet, London, 1675) and as late as the middle of the 18th century pride themselves in giving such quasi-Apician formulae.

[53] [Rank of] DISHES _ISICIA_

[Entrees of] PEAc.o.c.k OCCUPY THE FIRST RANK, PROVIDED THEY BE DRESSED IN SUCH MANNER THAT THE HARD AND TOUGH PARTS BE TENDER. THE SECOND PLACE [in the estimation of the Gourmets] HAVE DISHES MADE OF RABBIT [1] THIRD SPINY LOBSTER [2] FOURTH COMES CHICKEN AND FIFTH YOUNG PIG.

[1] List. and G.-V. Pheasant.

[2] Wanting in the above. Dann. Crane fourth.

_Isicia_, like in the foregoing formula, commences to become a generic term for ”dishes.”

[54] POTTED ENTReES _ISICIA AMULATA AB AHENO_ [1]

GROUND PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, VERY LITTLE SILPHIUM, A PINCH OF GINGER AND A TRIFLE OF HONEY AND A LITTLE STOCK. [Put on the fire, and when boiling] ADD THE ISICIA [sausage, meat b.a.l.l.s and so forth] TO THIS BROTH AND COOK THOROUGHLY. FINALLY THICKEN THE GRAVY WITH ROUX [2] BY SOWING IT IN SLOWLY AND STIRRING FROM THE BOTTOM UP [3].

[1] Tor. _multa ab alieno_; Brandt _[a]mul[a]ta ab aheno_; List. _amylata_--French: _lies_. _Ab aheno_--out of the pot.

[2] French, for a mixture of wheat or rice flour with fats or liquids to thicken fluids. _Amylum_, or _amulum_ which hereafter will occur frequently in the original does not cover the ground as well as the French term _roux_. The quality of the ”binder” depends upon the material in hand. Sometimes the fat and flour are parched, sometimes they are used raw. Sometimes the flour is diluted with water and used in that form.

[3] List. and G.-V. _sorbendum_; Tor. _subruendum_.

[55] ANOTHER [THICK ENTReE GRAVY]

_ALITER_

GRIND PEPPER WHICH HAS BEEN SOAKED OVERNIGHT, ADD SOME MORE STOCK AND WORK IT INTO A SMOOTH PASTE; THEREUPON ADD QUINCE-APPLE CIDER, BOILED DOWN ONE HALF, THAT IS WHICH HAS EVAPORATED IN THE HEAT OF THE SUN TO THE CONSISTENCY OF HONEY. IF THIS IS NOT AT HAND, ADD FIG WINE [1]

CONCENTRATE WHICH THE ROMANS CALL ”COLOR” [2]. NOW THICKEN THE GRAVY WITH ROUX OR WITH SOAKED RICE FLOUR AND FINISH IT ON A GENTLE FIRE.

[1] Tor. _cammarum_, which should read _caricarum_--wine of Carica figs.

[2] V. the Roman equivalent for ”_singe_,” ”monkey,”

”_Affe_,”--(the _vulgo_ French is literally translated into and in actual use in other languages) caramel color made of burnt sugar to give gravies a palatable appearance. Cf. No. 73.

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