Volume Ii Part 1 (1/2)
Club Life of London.
Volume II.
by John Timbs.
Coffee-houses.
EARLY COFFEE-HOUSES.
Coffee is thus mentioned by Bacon, in his _Sylva Sylvarum_:--”They have in _Turkey_ a _drink_ called _Coffee_, made of a _Berry_ of the same name, as Black as _Soot_, and of a _Strong Sent_, but not _Aromatical_; which they take, beaten into Powder, in _Water_, as Hot as they can _Drink_ it; and they take it, and sit at it in their _Coffee Houses_, which are like our _Taverns_. The _Drink_ comforteth the _Brain_, and _Heart_, and helpeth _Digestion_.”
And in Burton's _Anatomy of Melancholy_, part i., sec. 2, occurs, ”Turks in their coffee-houses, which much resemble our taverns.” The date is 1621, several years before coffee-houses were introduced into England.
In 1650, Wood tells us, was opened at Oxford, the first coffee-house, by Jacobs, a Jew, ”at the Angel, in the parish of St. Peter in the East; and there it was, by some who delighted in novelty, drank.”
There was once an odd notion prevalent that coffee was unwholesome, and would bring its drinkers to an untimely end. Yet, Voltaire, Fontenelle, and Fourcroy, who were great coffee-drinkers, lived to a good old age. Laugh at Madame de Sevigne, who foretold that coffee and Racine would be forgotten together!
A ma.n.u.script note, written by Oldys, the celebrated antiquary, states that ”The use of coffee in England was first known in 1657. [It will be seen, as above, that Oldys is incorrect.] Mr. Edwards, a Turkey merchant, brought from Smyrna to London one Pasqua Rosee, a Ragusan youth, who prepared this drink for him every morning. But the novelty thereof drawing too much company to him, he allowed his said servant, with another of his son-in-law, to sell it publicly, and they set up the first coffee-house in London, in St. Michael's alley, in Cornhill.
The sign was Pasqua Rosee's own head.” Oldys is slightly in error here; Rosee commenced his coffee-house in 1652, and one Jacobs, a Jew, as we have just seen, had established a similar undertaking at Oxford, two years earlier. One of Rosee's original shop or hand-bills, the only mode of advertising in those days, is as follows:--
”THE VERTUE OF THE COFFEE DRINK,
”_First made and publickly sold in England by Pasqua Rosee._
”The grain or berry called coffee, groweth upon little trees only in the deserts of Arabia. It is brought from thence, and drunk generally throughout all the Grand Seignour's dominions. It is a simple, innocent thing, composed into a drink, by being dried in an oven, and ground to powder, and boiled up with spring water, and about half a pint of it to be drunk fasting an hour before, and not eating an hour after, and to be taken as hot as possibly can be endured; the which will never fetch the skin off the mouth, or raise any blisters by reason of that heat.
”The Turks' drink at meals and other times is usually water, and their diet consists much of fruit; the crudities whereof are very much corrected by this drink.
”The quality of this drink is cold and dry; and though it be a drier, yet it neither heats nor inflames more than hot posset. It so incloseth the orifice of the stomach, and fortifies the heat within, that it is very good to help digestion; and therefore of great use to be taken about three or four o'clock afternoon, as well as in the morning.
It much quickens the spirits, and makes the heart lightsome; it is good against sore eyes, and the better if you hold your head over it and take in the steam that way. It suppresseth fumes exceedingly, and therefore is good against the head-ache, and will very much stop any defluxion of rheums, that distil from the head upon the stomach, and so prevent and help consumptions and the cough of the lungs.
”It is excellent to prevent and cure the dropsy, gout,[1]
and scurvy. It is known by experience to be better than any other drying drink for people in years, or children that have any running humours upon them, as the king's evil, &c.
It is a most excellent remedy against the spleen, hypochondriac winds, and the like. It will prevent drowsiness, and make one fit for business, if one have occasion to watch, and therefore you are not to drink of it after supper, unless you intend to be watchful, for it will hinder sleep for three or four hours.
”It is observed that in Turkey, where this is generally drunk, that they are not troubled with the stone, gout, dropsy, or scurvy, and that their skins are exceeding clear and white. It is neither laxative nor restringent.
”_Made and sold in St. Michael's-alley, in Cornhill, by Pasqua Rosee, at the sign of his own head._”
The new beverage had its opponents, as well as its advocates. The following extracts from _An invective against Coffee_, published about the same period, informs us that Rosee's partner, the servant of Mr.
Edwards's son-in-law, was a coachman; while it controverts the statement that hot coffee will not scald the mouth, and ridicules the broken English of the Ragusan:--
”A BROADSIDE AGAINST COFFEE.
”A coachman was the first (here) coffee made, And ever since the rest drive on the trade: '_Me no good Engalas.h.!.+_' and sure enough, He played the quack to salve his Stygian stuff; '_Ver boon for de stomach, de cough, de phthisick._'
And I believe him, for it looks like physic.
Coffee a crust is charred into a coal, The smell and taste of the mock china bowl; Where huff and puff, they labour out their lungs, Lest, Dives-like, they should bewail their tongues.
And yet they tell ye that it will not burn, Though on the jury blisters you return; Whose furious heat does make the water rise, And still through the alembics of your eyes.
Dread and desire, you fall to 't snap by snap, As hungry dogs do scalding porridge lap.