Part 18 (1/2)
The whole party being now a.s.sembled below the conflux of the Yellow-stone and Missouri rivers, they prosecuted the remainder of their voyage together; experiencing, in the prospect of home, and in the ease with which they descended the river, a compensation for all their fatigues; and receiving the visits of various tribes of Indians who resided upon its banks.
The greatest change which was experienced by them, in their southward progress, was that of climate. They had pa.s.sed nearly two years, in a cool, open country, and they were now descending into wooded plains, eight or ten degrees further to the south, but differing in heat much more than is usual in a correspondent distance in Europe. They were likewise greatly tormented by musquitoes.
On landing at _La Charrette_, the first village on this side of the United States, they were joyfully received by the inhabitants, who had long abandoned all hopes of their return. On the 23d of September they descended the Mississippi to _St. Louis_, which place they reached about noon; having, in two years and nine months, completed a journey of nearly nine thousand miles.
At St. Louis we shall resume the narrative of Mr. Pike, who, in the month of July, 1806, set out from that place on an expedition westward, through the immense territory of Louisiana, towards New Spain. The chief objects of this expedition were to arrange an amicable treaty between the Americans and Indians of this quarter; and to ascertain the direction, extent, and navigation, of two great rivers, known by the names of Arkansaw and Red River.
Eighteenth Day's Instruction.
WESTERN TERRITORY CONCLUDED.
_Narrative of Mr. Pike's Journey from St. Louis, through Louisiana, to Santa Fe, New Spain._
The party engaged in this expedition, were Mr. Pike and another lieutenant, a surgeon, a serjeant, two corporals, sixteen private soldiers, and one interpreter. They had, under their charge, some chiefs of the Osage and p.a.w.nee nations, who, with several women and children, had been redeemed from captivity, and now, to the number of fifty-one, were about to be restored to their friends.
They set out from _St. Louis_ on the 15th of July, 1806, and proceeded, in two boats, up the _Missouri_. About six miles from the village of _St. Charles_, they pa.s.sed a hill of solid coal, so extensive that it would probably afford fuel sufficient for the whole population of Louisiana.
Mr. Pike says that, every morning, he was awaked by the lamentations of the savages who accompanied him. These invariably began to cry about day-light, and continued to do so for an hour. On enquiry respecting this practice, he was informed that it was customary, not only with persons who had recently lost their friends; but also with others who called to mind the loss of some friend, dead long before. They seemed to be extremely affected: tears ran down their cheeks, and they sobbed bitterly; but, when the hour was expired, they, in a moment, ceased their cries, and dried their cheeks.
In their progress up the river, the Indians walked along the banks, and, every night, encamped near the boats. On the 28th the boats reached the mouth of the _Osage river_. For some distance the southern sh.o.r.e of the Missouri had been hilly, and covered with trees; and on the north were low bottoms and heavy timber. The soil was rich, and well adapted for cultivation.
They entered the Osage, and encountered few difficulties in their voyage up that river. From the sh.o.r.es, the hunters amply supplied the whole party with provisions; deer, turkeys, geese, and game of different kinds.
From the mouth of the Osage to that of the _Gravel river_, a distance of one hundred and eighteen miles, the banks of the former are covered with timber, which grows in a rich soil. Low hills, with rocks, alternately border the eastern and western sh.o.r.es: the lower grounds have excellent soil, and the whole adjacent country abounds in game. From the Gravel-river to the _Yungar_, the Osage continues to exhibit the appearance of a fertile and well-timbered country.
The Indians joined their friends on the 15th, after which Mr. Pike and his party proceeded alone. On the ensuing day they pa.s.sed the mouth of the _Grand Fork_, which was nearly as wide as the Osage; and, soon afterwards, reached the villages of the Osage Indians. The country adjacent to these villages is extremely beautiful. Three branches of the river wind round them, giving to their vicinity the advantages of wood and water, and, at the same time, those of an extensive prairie, crowned with rich and luxuriant gra.s.s and flowers, diversified by rising swells and sloping lawns.
The _Osage Indians_, in language, habits, and many of their customs, differ little from other tribes which inhabit the country near the Missouri and Mississippi. They raise great quant.i.ties of corn, beans, and pumpkins; and all the agricultural labour is performed by women. The government is vested in a few of the chiefs, whose office is, in most instances, hereditary; but these never undertake any affair of importance, without first a.s.sembling the warriors, and proposing the subject for discussion in council. The Osage Indians are divided into cla.s.ses: those of the princ.i.p.al cla.s.s are warriors and hunters; and the others are cooks and doctors. The last exercise the function of priests or magicians; and, by pretended divinations, interpretations of dreams, and magical performances, they have great influence in the councils of the nation: they also exercise the office of town-criers. Many old warriors a.s.sume the profession of cooks: these do not carry arms, and are supported by the public, or by particular families to which they are attached.
When a stranger enters the Osage village, he is received, in a patriarchal style, at the lodge of the chief. He is then invited, by all the great men of the village, to a feast. The cooks proclaim the feast, in different parts of the village, ”Come and eat: such a one gives a feast, come and partake of his bounty.” The dishes are generally boiled sweet corn, served up in buffalo grease; or boiled meat and pumpkins.
From the Osage villages, Mr. Pike, and his men, accompanied by several Indians, proceeded, on horseback, in a somewhat westerly direction, towards the river Arkansaw. In some places the country was hilly, and commanded beautiful prospects. The wild animals were so numerous, that Mr. Pike, standing on one of the hills, beheld, at a single view, buffaloes, elks, deer, and panthers. Beyond this they pa.s.sed through numerous herds of buffaloes, elks, and other animals. In many places the country was very deficient in water.
On the 17th of September they reached a branch of the _Kanzes river_, the water of which was strongly impregnated with salt, as was that of many of the creeks. At some distance beyond this river, they were met by a party of p.a.w.nee Indians; one of whom wore a scarlet coat, and had two medals: each of the others had a buffalo robe thrown over his naked body.
From the eastern branch of the Kanzes river, to the village of the p.a.w.nee Indians, the prairies are low, the gra.s.s is high, the country abounds in saline places, and the soil appears to be impregnated with particles of nitre and of common salt. The immediate borders of the river near the village, consist of lofty ridges; but this is an exception to the general appearance of the country.
The _p.a.w.nees_ reside on the rivers Platte and Kanzes. They are divided into three tribes. Their form is slender, and their cheeks bones are high. They are neither so brave nor so honest as their more northern neighbours. Their government, like that of the Osage Indians, is an hereditary aristocracy; but the power of the chiefs is extremely limited. They cultivate the soil and raise corn and pumpkins: they also breed horses, and have vast numbers of excellent animals. The houses or huts of the p.a.w.nees are circular, except at the part where the door is placed; and, from this part, there is a projection of about fifteen feet. The roofs are thatched with gra.s.s and earth, and have, at the top, an aperture for the smoke to pa.s.s out: the fire is always made on the ground, in the middle of the hut. In the interior there are, round the walls, many small and neat apartments, constructed of wicker-work: these are the sleeping places of the different members of the family. The p.a.w.nees are extremely addicted to gaming, and have, for that purpose, a smooth piece of ground, about one hundred and fifty yards in length, cleared at each end of their village.
On Monday, the 29th of September, Mr. Pike held a grand council with the p.a.w.nees; at which were present not fewer than four hundred warriors.
Some attempts were made, by the chief, to prevent the further progress of the travellers; but Mr. Pike says, that they were not to be deterred by any impediments that could be opposed to them by a band of savages.
Proceeding onward they came to several places which had evidently been occupied by Spanish troops; and they were desirous of tracing the course along which these troops had marched; but the marks of their footsteps had been effaced by the numerous herds of buffaloes, which abound in this part of the country.
On the 18th of October, the travellers crossed the _Arkansaw_. From the p.a.w.nee town, on the Kanzes river, to the Arkansaw, the country may be termed mountainous; and it contains a vast number of buffaloes. In the vicinity of this river it is, in many places, low and swampy.
The travellers were occupied several days in cutting down trees and constructing canoes. During this time the hunters killed several buffaloes, elks, and other animals. When the canoes were completed, Mr.
Pike dispatched Lieutenant Wilkinson, and three men, down the river, with letters to the United States; and himself and the rest of his men proceeded, on horseback, up the side of the river. On the 29th of October, a considerable quant.i.ty of snow fell, and ice floated along the current. Three days after this, they observed a numerous herd of wild horses. When within about a quarter of a mile of them, the animals approached, making the earth tremble, as if under a charge of cavalry.