Part 4 (1/2)
About thirty miles north-east of Philadelphia, and betwixt that city and New York, is _Trenton_, the capital of New Jersey. Mr. Weld visited this place in the year 1796; and he says that it then contained only about eighty dwellings, in one long street. It had a college, which was in considerable repute. The number of students was about seventy; but, from their appearance, and the course of their studies, it more correctly deserved the appellation of a grammar-school, than a college. The library was a miserable one; and, for the most part, contained only old theological books. There were an orrery out of repair, and a few detached parts of philosophical apparatus. At the opposite end of the room were two small cupboards, which were shown as the museum. These contained two small alligators, stuffed, and a few fishes, in a wretched state of preservation.
Not far from Trenton, and on the bank of the Delaware, is the residence of Joseph Buonaparte, who, since the re-establishment of the ancient families on the thrones of Europe, has retired to America. The estate on which he lives he purchased for ten thousand dollars; and he is said to have expended, twenty thousand more in finis.h.i.+ng the buildings, and laying out the grounds in a splendid style. At present it has much the appearance of the villa of a country gentleman in England.
Fifth Day's Instruction.
UNITED STATES CONTINUED.
_Narrative of Mr._ FEARON'S _Journey from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh._
In the month of October, 1817, Mr. Fearon left Philadelphia for Pittsburgh. He pa.s.sed through an extensive, fertile, well-cultivated, and beautiful tract of land called the _Great Valley_. Farms in this district are chiefly owned by Dutch and Germans, and their descendants.
They consist of from fifty to two hundred acres each; and are purchasable at the rate of about .46 sterling per acre, the buildings included; and, in well-improved land, the average produce of wheat may be estimated at twenty-five bushels.
At the distance of about twenty miles from Philadelphia there is a copper and zinc mine. Iron ore abounds throughout the state of Pennsylvania; and many of the rocks are of limestone. A coa.r.s.e kind of grey marble is found in great quant.i.ty, and is used for steps and chimney-pieces.
The towns of _Lancaster_, _Harrisburgh_, and _Carlisle_, through which Mr. Fearon pa.s.sed, are all considerable, both in extent and population.
[_Lancaster_ is nearly the largest inland town of North America. It contains upwards of nine hundred houses, built chiefly of brick and stone, and, in general, two stories high. It has also six churches, a market-house, and a gaol. The streets are laid out regularly, and cross each other at right angles. Several different kinds of wares are manufactured here, and chiefly by German mechanics. The rifled barrel guns made at this place are considered to have great excellence. In 1787, a college was founded at Lancaster, and named Franklin College, in honour of Dr. Franklin. The founders were an a.s.sociation of Germans, who were desirous of establis.h.i.+ng a seminary for the education of their sons, in their own language and habits. But it has not flourished; and, in 1815, the number of students did not exceed fifty.]
Lancaster, Harrisburgh, and Carlisle, each contain many excellent brick buildings, and the usual erections of market-houses, gaols, and churches, all evincing an extent of national property, and an advancement to European establishments, truly extraordinary, when we recollect that this is a country which may be said to be but of yesterday. The German character is very prevalent throughout this state; and even the original language is preserved.
[At _Carlisle_ there are many excellent shops and warehouses. This place has a college, which was founded in 1783, by Mr. John d.i.c.kenson of Pennsylvania. The number of students is about one hundred and forty; and there are professors of logic, metaphysics, languages, natural philosophy, and chemistry.]
Mr. Fearon next arrived at _Chambersburgh_, a town which contains about two hundred and forty houses, and two or three churches. He here secured a place, in the stage, to Pittsburgh, and set off the next morning at three o'clock. About eight he arrived at _Loudon_, a small town at the foot of the north mountain, one of the Alleghany ridges, and at this time containing seventeen log and twenty frame or brick houses. The tavern was cheerless and dirty.
On the road Mr. Fearon counted thirty regular stage-waggons, which were employed in conveying goods to and from Pittsburgh. Each of these was drawn by four horses; and the articles carried in them, were chiefly hardware, and silk, linen, cotton, and woollen goods. The waggons, in return, conveyed from Pittsburgh farming produce, and chiefly flour. It is, however, necessary to observe that this is the only trading waggon route to the whole western country; and that there is no water-carriage through this part of America.
The road, for a considerable distance, was excellent, and was part of a new national turnpike, which had been projected to extend from the head of the river Potomac to Wheeling. This road, when completed, will be of great advantage to the whole western country. The stage pa.s.sed over the _North Mountain_, whence there was a most extensive view, of a wide and beautiful valley, containing several thousand acres, which have not yet been cultivated. The prospect combined some grand mountain-scenery, and was the most magnificent that Mr. Fearon had ever beheld. The travellers pa.s.sed through a little town situated in the midst of this apparently trackless wild.
They afterwards overtook twenty small family waggons, those chiefly of emigrants from one part of the state to another. These persons were travelling in company, and thus formed an unity of interest, for the purpose of securing, when necessary, an interchange of a.s.sistance. The difficulties they experienced, in pa.s.sing through this mountainous district, were very great.
Mr. Fearon and the other stage-pa.s.sengers supped and slept at a place called _b.l.o.o.d.y Run_, having, for several miles, proceeded over roads that were almost impa.s.sable. Early the next morning they again set out; and they arrived at _Bedford_ about nine o'clock. [This little town, like most others on the great western road, trades in all kinds of corn, flour, and provisions.] They were not, however, permitted to stop here, as the stage-proprietor had a house further on, where they breakfasted.
In pa.s.sing over a range of mountains called the _Dry Ridge_, the view was peculiarly magnificent. The eye, at one glance, took in a varied and most interesting view of mountain scenery, intermingled with wooded vales, and much fertile land. The travellers continued to overtake many waggons of emigrants from different states.
About five o'clock in the afternoon they reached the top of the _Alleghany Mountains_. The road had of late been so bad, that they had walked more than sixteen miles, leaving the stage far behind. The character of the mountain _inhabitants_ appeared to be cold, friendless, unfeeling, callous, and selfish. All the emigrants with whom Mr. Fearon conversed, complained of the enormous charges at taverns. Log-houses are the only habitations for many miles. These are formed of the trunks of trees, about twenty feet in length, and six inches in diameter, cut at the ends, and placed on each other. The roof is framed in a similar manner. In some houses there are windows; in others the door performs the double office of window and entrance. The chimney is erected on the outside, and in a similar manner to the body of the house. The hinges of the doors are generally of wood; and locks are not used. In some of the houses there are two apartments; in others but one, for all the various operations of cooking, eating, and sleeping; and even the pigs come in for their due share of the log residence. About eleven o'clock at night, the travellers safely arrived at _Somerset_, a small town distant two hundred and thirty-seven miles from Philadelphia.
In the morning of their third day's journey, they crossed _Laurel Hill_.
The vegetation on this ridge appears superior to that of the Allegheny.
The mountain called _Little Chesnut Ridge_ succeeds Laurel Hill. The difficulties of the road were here extremely great. These arose not only from the height of the mountains, but from the enormous stones and deep mud-holes with which the road abounded. The trees on Chesnut Ridge are chiefly oak and chesnut; and the soil appeared to be chalky. At half past ten at night they arrived at _Greensburg_, [a town built upon the summit of a hill. The land, in its vicinity is, in general, very fertile; and the inhabitants, who are of German origin, cultivate wheat, rye, and oats, with great success.]
The party started, on the fourth day, at four in the morning, and with the high treat of a turnpike-road; but the advantages, arising from this, were but of short continuance. They had to descend _Turtle Creek Hill_, the road over which, in consequence of late rains, had become, if possible, even worse than those across Laurel Hill. The pa.s.sengers all got out; and, up to their knees in mud, they took their turns, in holding up the stage. This tract bore decided evidence of being embedded with coal. About two o'clock they reached _Pittsburg_.
From Chambersburgh to Greensburgh the condition of the people is that of an absence of wealth and of the conveniences of life, with, however, the means of obtaining a sufficient quant.i.ty of food. The blacksmith and the tavern-keeper are almost the only occupations. The former earns from twenty s.h.i.+llings and sixpence to twenty-seven s.h.i.+llings per week; and the profits of the latter must be very great, if we may judge from the high charges and bad quality of the accommodations. From Greensburgh to Pittsburgh the improvement, in size and quality, of the houses, is evident, and the cultivation and condition of the land is much superior to those of the country through which the travellers had before past.
_Pittsburg_ is, in several points of view, a most interesting town. Its situation, which is truly picturesque, is at the termination of two rivers, and at the commencement of a third river, that has a direct communication with the ocean, though at the immense distance of two thousand five hundred miles. This place possesses an exhaustless store of coal.
During the great American war, Pittsburg was an important military post called _Du Quesne_, and was remarkable for two signal defeats of the British troops. It is, at present, a place of great importance: the connecting link between _new_ and _old_ America; and though it is not a ”Birmingham,” as the natives bombastically style it, yet it certainly contains the seeds of numerous important and valuable manufactories.