Part 33 (1/2)

While pruning look out for rabbit and mouse injury. If good trees have been injured do some bridge grafting as soon as you can. This means connecting the healthy bark above the wound with the healthy bark below.

Small twigs cut from the same tree, that are long enough to span the wound, are cut wedge shaped on both ends, and these ends put under the healthy bark. If possible cover the wounded area with earth. If too high up tie the scions in place and cover all cut surfaces with grafting wax and cloth. Several scions should be put in if the tree is large.

_Second: Spraying._ Three sprayings are needed on every bearing apple tree in Minnesota.

First spray: When the center of buds show pink. Don't wait too long.

Second spray: When the petals have fallen.

Third spray: Ten to fifteen days after the second.

Use lime-sulphur and a.r.s.enate of lead each time. It is important to do this at the right time, in the right way, and with the right materials.

Right is the word and not left-undone. Further particulars will be found on the page devoted to spraying topics.

_Third: Cultivation._ Follow the plan that is best suited to location.

This may mean sod, part sod and cultivation, cultivation and mulch, mulch only, or cultivation and cover crop. Doubtless the last is the best in most instances.

_Fourth: Thinning._ The thinning of apples in Minnesota has not been received with as much consideration as its importance demands. More attention will be given to this topic in subsequent issues.

HOME GARDEN.

What about the farm and home garden for 1916? Is the garden to receive the undivided attention of one or more members of each family, so that all members and guests may share its fruits? Let's make the home garden the best spot on every Minnesota farm in 1916. A conservative estimate of the actual value of the products from a half-acre garden is fifty dollars. In Minnesota there are over 150,000 farms. This would mean a total value of over $7,000,000. This does not include the value of the products of the village and city gardens. Careful estimates made in this state show that it costs about fifteen dollars for man and horse labor to take care of a garden of about three-fourths of an acre. Now for a BIG GARDEN MOVEMENT this year--for all the year. Not a big beginning kept up until the little weeds become big weeds. Is anyone going to allow weeds to outdo him?

NOTES ON PLANT PESTS.

Prepared by Section of Insect Pests, A. G. RUGGLES, and by Section of Plant Diseases, E. C. STAKMAN, University Farm.

Buy spray materials as soon as possible. The orchardist will probably notice very little difference in the price of his spraying materials, like a.r.s.enate of lead and lime-sulphur, as compared with last year; but those who still think that Paris green is the only good stomach insecticide, will be astounded by this year's price. At the present time, in one pound lots, the retailer cannot sell Paris green for less than 50c per pound--over twice what it was last year. In large quant.i.ties, it is doubtful if it can be purchased for less than 45c per pound. Fortunately a.r.s.enate of lead, a better stomach insecticide than Paris green, has not advanced materially in price, the powdered form being obtained for about 25c per pound. One and one-half pounds of this powder is used in fifty gallons of spray mixture. In our experiments, we have found a.r.s.enate of lead superior to Paris green as a remedy for potato bugs and all orchard insects. It is not necessary, therefore, to allow any injurious biting insect to live simply because Paris green is high in price. a.r.s.enate of lead, if properly applied at the right time, will keep any of these insects in check.

A dormant wash does little good in controlling scab. Hence, on account of the high price of spraying compounds, do not spray when unnecessary.

Many diseases of nursery stock are controlled by spraying. Begin spraying as soon as leaf buds unfold, with lime-sulphur 1-40 or Bordeaux mixture 4-4-50.

Copper-sulphate has also advanced 15c or 16c per pound. Lime-sulphur has not advanced materially; therefore, plan to use lime-sulphur or some of the made-up (paste) Bordeaux instead of Bordeaux mixture, whenever possible. _Potatoes can not be sprayed with lime-sulphur._

The aphis problem is usually a very serious one, because they are such persistent little breeders. The trees or shrubs most affected are roses, s...o...b..ll, currant, apple, plum and elm. The eggs of the plant lice pa.s.s the winter on the bark or buds of these plants and hatch as the buds begin to swell. Spray with the lime-sulphur (1-9) at this time. As soon as the leaves appear, spray with nicotine-sulphate as per directions on the container.

If plum pocket was bad last year, the trees should be thoroughly pruned.

Then spray with copper-sulphate, one pound to nine gallons of water, or lime-sulphur, one gallon with nine gallons of water, before the buds open. Follow with one to forty lime-sulphur or other spray as for brown rot. Control methods for plum pocket are not well worked out, so these methods cannot be depended upon entirely.

Be sure and look over the apple trees carefully; cut out and burn all cankers. Black rot has been increasing in the state, and since a great deal of early infection may come from cankered limbs, it is important that cutting out and burning be resorted to.

Last year the spring canker worm was just as active in the state as the fall canker worm; therefore, just as soon as possible, trees affected last year should be banded with the tree tanglefoot. The moths come out of the soil the first two weeks in April and at that time attempt to crawl up the trunks of the trees to lay their eggs on the limbs.

When raspberries are uncovered, be sure to cut out and burn all dead canes missed last fall. The gray bark disease and anthracnose, also snowy tree cricket and red-necked cane borer, are controlled in this way.