Part 5 (1/2)

They were kind enough to ask me to dinner. ”It is Sunday,” said Miss Sheldon, ”and we shall have all our Christians dining with us. You will not mind, I am sure.”

I a.s.sured her that nothing would interest me more.

I arrived punctually at the hour appointed, and on the verandah of the bungalow were laid some nice clean mats upon which we all sat cross-legged in native fas.h.i.+on. We three Europeans were provided with knife and fork, but all the natives helped themselves with their fingers, which they used with much dexterity. There were among the converts some Hindoos, some Shokas, some Humlis, and a Tibetan woman. All counted, I suppose they were about twenty, and it would be impossible to find a better behaved set of Christians anywhere. They ate heartily and only spoke when they were spoken to.

”I doubt whether I have ever dined with so many good Christians,” said I jokingly to Miss Sheldon. ”It is delightful.”

”They would much like to hear some of the experiences of your travels if you would be kind enough to tell them. That is to say, if you are not too tired and do not mind.”

Interpreted by Miss Brown, I related some of my adventures in the country of the Ainu. Rarely have I had such an interested audience. When the story ended they all salaamed me, and an old veteran Gourkha, one of the converts, took my hand and shook it warmly.

”You must not mind, Mr. Landor: you see, we treat our Christians like ourselves,”[4] quickly interrupted Miss Sheldon.

”Oh no, I do not mind,” I replied. ”On the contrary, I am glad to see it done.”

I took my leave and asked the ladies to come to tea with me the next day.

The afternoon came and they arrived, when to my horror it flashed across my mind that I had neither cups, nor saucers, nor spoons. I had some tea, but I had no idea in which box it was, and to save my life I could not lay my hands upon it. This caused a frank and delightful remark on the part of Miss Sheldon to Miss Brown.

”Does not Mr. Landor remind you of 'that other' eccentric gentleman that came through here last year?”

The moment she had uttered the words Miss Sheldon saw what she had said, and we all laughed heartily.

”You know, Mr. Landor,” put in Miss Brown, ”we half foresaw that you would not be provided with these articles of luxury, and we brought our own cups and saucers.”

The news was a great relief to me.

”Well now, let me persuade you to take some delicious chocolate instead of tea.”

”Very good, we would prefer it. We have not had chocolate for a long time.”

[Ill.u.s.tration: HOUSE OF A WEALTHY SHOKA]

A solid block of chocolate was produced weighing twenty-eight pounds, and Chanden Sing set to chip off bits with a stone--a primitive but effective method. In the meantime the kettle was boiling, while my two visitors made themselves as comfortable as was possible under the circ.u.mstances on pack-saddle cases.

The tea party went off well, for the ladies, evidently suspecting the ”eccentricity” of their host, had come provided not only with cups and saucers, but with spoons, cake, bread, b.u.t.ter, and biscuits!

[4] N.B.--Anglo-Indians very rarely condescend to shake hands with the natives.

CHAPTER IX

Discouraging reports--A steep ascent--How I came to deserve the name of ”monkey”--Hard at work--Promoted in rank--Collapse in a gale of wind--Time and labour lost.

THE weather again became rainy and cold. The reports that I received of the state of the roads farther up were not encouraging.

”The track is impa.s.sable,” said an old Shoka who had just arrived from Garbyang. ”The Lippu Pa.s.s by which you wish to enter Tibet is still closed, and there is much snow on it still. Then the Jong Pen of Taklakot in Tibet, having been left unpunished for his last years' attack on Lieutenant Gaussen, has now a strong guard of three hundred men to prevent foreigners entering the country. The _Dakus_ (brigands) infesting the region of the Mansarowar Lake seem to be more numerous this year than ever.”