Part 5 (1/2)

There are a few ways to break your tomatoes. (One way not to do it is to chop the tomatoes on your chopping board-what a freakin' mess!) You could pulse the contents of the can in a food processor until the tomatoes are coa.r.s.ely chopped. Or, you can insert clean kitchen scissors into the can and snip the tomatoes into chunks.

But the easiest way is the time-honored, hands-on method. With one hand, hold the can right over the saucepan, so when the juices squirt, they hit the sides of the pan and not you. Reach your other (clean) hand right into the can (make sure there aren't any sharp edges from removing the lid), and as you pour the tomatoes and the juices into the saucepan, squish and squeeze the chunks as they slide out.

BASIC T TOMATO S SAUCE, AKA AKA ”T ”THE Q QUICKIE”

MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS, ENOUGH FOR 1 POUND OF PASTA1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oilOne 28-ounce can imported Italian plum tomatoes, broken up, with their juices cup tomato paste2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil or 2 teaspoons dried basil 1. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the tomatoes and their juices and the tomato paste. Bring just to a boil. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the tomatoes and their juices and the tomato paste. Bring just to a boil.

2. Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the basil. Simmer to blend the flavors, about 10 minutes. The end. Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the basil. Simmer to blend the flavors, about 10 minutes. The end.

Sauces to Cry ForNow that you have a true tomato sauce, you are ready to make dozens of delicious sauces. I'm going to give you my family recipes for five tomato saucebased cla.s.sics-Marinara, Bolognese, Puttanesca, Napoletano, and Arrabbiata-but you'll soon discover you can create your own signature sauce with a good tomato sauce and your favorite seasonings. I'm naming the sauces after my kids, because my kids are gorgeous and delicious, and I could just eat them up.

MILANIA'S M MARINARA S SAUCE MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS, ENOUGH FOR 1 POUND OF PASTA.

Marinara sauce is what most people think of as the cla.s.sic Italian red spaghetti sauce. And it is great over spaghetti, but you can use it over any pasta. It's nice and light, and super healthy, so enjoy your spaghetti guilt-free!

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil12 cremini mushrooms, sliced1 medium onion, finely chopped2 garlic cloves, minced3 cups ”The Quickie” Tomato Sauce (see page 117 page 117) cup hearty red wine1 teaspoons dried oregano teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper or crushed hot red pepper 1. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring often, until they are beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Move the mushrooms to one side of the saucepan. Add the onion to the empty side of the saucepan and cook, stirring the onion occasionally, until it softens, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic, stir everything together, and cook until the onion is tender, about 2 minutes more. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring often, until they are beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Move the mushrooms to one side of the saucepan. Add the onion to the empty side of the saucepan and cook, stirring the onion occasionally, until it softens, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic, stir everything together, and cook until the onion is tender, about 2 minutes more.

2. Stir in the tomato sauce, wine, oregano, salt, and pepper and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thickened and well flavored, at least 30 minutes and up to 4 hours, but the longer the better! If the sauce gets too thick, add a little water. Serve hot, as a pasta sauce. Stir in the tomato sauce, wine, oregano, salt, and pepper and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thickened and well flavored, at least 30 minutes and up to 4 hours, but the longer the better! If the sauce gets too thick, add a little water. Serve hot, as a pasta sauce.

Sauce of the Sailors”Marinara”: it sounds so good, I almost wish it were a girl's name because I'd use it! But it's not. ”Marinara” is from the Italian word marinaro, which means ”of the sea.”Marinara sauce was first favored by the sailors in Naples in the sixteenth century and so it was named ”the sauce of the sailors.”The s.h.i.+ps' cooks loved it because as a tomato-based sauce without any meat or seafood in it, it could last for long voyages without needing refrigeration (which, of course, they didn't have on boats back then).

GABRIELLA'S B BOLOGNESE S SAUCE MAKES ABOUT 6 CUPS, ENOUGH FOR 2 POUND OF PASTATeresa'sT I PTo save time, use a food processor to chop, dice, and mince your vegetables and meats.

Bolognese sauce is a meat-based sauce originally from Bologna, Italy. It traditionally uses less tomato sauce than other recipes (especially a marinara), and at least two different kinds of ground meat (”minced meat” to the rest of the world). I like it best over cavatelli pasta (the pasta that looks like little hot dog buns), but any pasta that can grab onto the sauce is good.

I make this sauce for Dina Manzo all the time. She's like one of those carnivores who has to have meat at every meal. I love meat, but no one loves meat like Dina. (She's going to kill me for saying that because it sounds all s.e.xy and stuff, but it's the truth. And she is all s.e.xy and stuff.) 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil1 medium onion, chopped carrot, cut into -inch dice celery rib, cut into -inch dice1 garlic clove, minced8 ounces ground pork8 ounces ground veal3 cups ”The Quickie” Tomato Sauce (see page 117 page 117)1 cup dry white wine3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepperWhen in Rome . . .Bolognese = bow-lone-YAY-sayNapoletano = nah-pole-lay-TAWN-oh 1. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes.

2. Add the pork and veal and cook, breaking up the meat with the side of a spoon, until the meat loses its raw look, about 5 minutes. Add the pork and veal and cook, breaking up the meat with the side of a spoon, until the meat loses its raw look, about 5 minutes.

3. Stir in the tomato sauce, wine, parsley, salt, and pepper and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thickened and well flavored, at least 30 minutes and up to 2 hours, the longer the better! Serve hot, as a pasta sauce. Stir in the tomato sauce, wine, parsley, salt, and pepper and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thickened and well flavored, at least 30 minutes and up to 2 hours, the longer the better! Serve hot, as a pasta sauce.

GIA'S N NAPOLETANO S SAUCE MAKES ABOUT 5 CUPS, ENOUGH FOR 1 POUNDS OF PASTA.

Like Bolognese, Napoletano is named for the city it comes from: Naples. (You might see it as Neapolitan Sauce in America.) The biggest difference between the two sauces is that Bolognese uses ground meat and less onion and tomato sauce, while Napoletano uses whole meat or meatb.a.l.l.s. Napoletano sauce is typically what Italians serve at their weekend family dinners, and it's also called ”Sunday gravy.” It would sit on the back of the stove simmering for hours while everyone went to Ma.s.s. When you got home, the smell . . . unbelievable!

You can make this with different meats-Italian sausage and pork shoulder is really popular-but I try to pick healthier meats (and save the sausage for dishes where it's the star!). Some cooks even use chicken. There are hundreds of variations on this recipe, but this one came over from Italy with my mamma, and it's the best.

Teresa'sT I PNapoletano is a great sauce to make ahead of time. And it freezes well, too. Make more than you need, and freeze leftover sauce (meat and all) for future lasagnas, eggplant dishes, even to spread over pizza!1 pounds beef top round steak (about 1/8 inch thick), cut into 4 equal pieces4 pork spareribs, preferably in one piece, but individual ribs are OK1 teaspoons salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1/3 cup finely chopped fresh parsley cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil1 medium onion, chopped cup hearty red wine3 cups ”The Quickie” Tomato Sauce (see page 117 page 117) 1. Pat the round steak and spareribs dry with paper towels. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and teaspoon pepper. Mix the parsley and Pecorino Romano cheese together in a shallow dish. Pat and rub the cheese mixture into the meats. Pat the round steak and spareribs dry with paper towels. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and teaspoon pepper. Mix the parsley and Pecorino Romano cheese together in a shallow dish. Pat and rub the cheese mixture into the meats.

2. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. In batches without crowding, add the meat and cook, turning occasionally, until browned, about 5 minutes. Adjust the heat so the meat browns nicely without burning. You want little chunks stuck to the bottom of the pan, as these will help flavor the sauce. Transfer the meat to a plate. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. In batches without crowding, add the meat and cook, turning occasionally, until browned, about 5 minutes. Adjust the heat so the meat browns nicely without burning. You want little chunks stuck to the bottom of the pan, as these will help flavor the sauce. Transfer the meat to a plate.

3. Heat the remaining oil in the saucepan. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Increase the heat to high and add the wine. Cook, stirring up the browned chunks in the bottom of the saucepan (the fancy word for this is deglazing; yeah, I didn't know that either). Bring to a boil. Heat the remaining oil in the saucepan. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Increase the heat to high and add the wine. Cook, stirring up the browned chunks in the bottom of the saucepan (the fancy word for this is deglazing; yeah, I didn't know that either). Bring to a boil.

4. Stir in the tomato sauce, 1 cup water, and the remaining teaspoon salt and teaspoon pepper. Return the beef and pork to the saucepan and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Partially cover the saucepan. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the meat is very tender, about 1 hours. Stir in the tomato sauce, 1 cup water, and the remaining teaspoon salt and teaspoon pepper. Return the beef and pork to the saucepan and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Partially cover the saucepan. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the meat is very tender, about 1 hours.

5. Remove the meats from the sauce and transfer to a cutting board. Cut the beef into -inch pieces. Cut the meat from the spareribs, discard the bones, and coa.r.s.ely chop the pork. Return the meats to the sauce. Serve hot, as a pasta sauce. Remove the meats from the sauce and transfer to a cutting board. Cut the beef into -inch pieces. Cut the meat from the spareribs, discard the bones, and coa.r.s.ely chop the pork. Return the meats to the sauce. Serve hot, as a pasta sauce.

DANIELLE'S P PUTTANESCA S SAUCE MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS, ENOUGH FOR 1 POUNDS OF PASTA.

OK, I don't have a daughter named Danielle, but I couldn't name this dish after any one of my darling girls. It's delicious, and very popular in our house, but the name . . . the name . . . First let's cook it, and then I'll tell you why I could only name it for a grown woman.

This sauce is usually poured over spaghetti, but you can use any noodle you want.

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil3 garlic cloves, minced2 teaspoons anchovy paste teaspoon crushed hot red pepper3 cups ”The Quickie” Tomato Sauce (see page 117 page 117) cup pitted and coa.r.s.ely chopped kalamata olives2 tablespoons drained capers 1. Pour the oil into a large saucepan. Add the garlic, anchovy paste, and hot pepper and cook over medium heat, stirring often, until the garlic is very fragrant and beginning to turn golden brown, about 2 minutes. Pour the oil into a large saucepan. Add the garlic, anchovy paste, and hot pepper and cook over medium heat, stirring often, until the garlic is very fragrant and beginning to turn golden brown, about 2 minutes.

2. Stir in the tomato sauce, olives, and capers and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until lightly thickened, about 15 minutes. Serve hot, as a pasta sauce. Stir in the tomato sauce, olives, and capers and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until lightly thickened, about 15 minutes. Serve hot, as a pasta sauce.

When in Rome . . .Puttanesca = pooh-tah-NES-kah Pasta Puttanesca is a common dish in Italy, where it enjoys an uncommon name: ”wh.o.r.e's spaghetti.” It was supposedly invented in the 1950s when brothels were owned and run by the Italian government (a way to keep them under control, I guess). The brothels were required to have their shutters closed at all times to s.h.i.+eld the good Italian women on the street from having to look at the puttanas, or prost.i.tutes. The ”ladies of the evening” were only allowed out for a short amount of time to shop in the local markets, so they had to quickly grab whatever they could. Pasta Puttanesca was their meal of choice because it was cheap and could be made in a jiffy, between customers.

An Italian restaurant owner in the 1950s also claims to have invented the dish for his hungry friends late one night, saying he named it after puttanata, the Italian word for ”garbage.” In either case, the name fits.

ARRABBIATA, THE A ANGRY S SAUCE.

MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS, ENOUGH FOR 1 POUNDS OF PASTA.

I'm a pretty laid-back person, but certain things p.i.s.s me off. Pathological puttanas, for one. So now seems like the perfect time to introduce Arrabbiata, the spiciest of Italian sauces.

Now, I like it hot, but if you want to tone it down, only use teaspoon of the red pepper flakes. I like it best over penne, but some people use linguine or spaghetti.

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil medium onion, chopped4 garlic cloves, finely chopped1 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper3 cups ”The Quickie” Tomato Sauce (see page 117 page 117)1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice teaspoon freshly ground black pepper2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 1. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in the hot pepper. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in the hot pepper.

2. Stir in the tomato sauce, lemon juice, and pepper. Bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until lightly thickened, at least 15 and up to 40 minutes. The longer it simmers, the hotter the sauce. If the sauce gets too thick, stir in a little water. Just before serving, stir in the parsley. Serve hot, as a pasta sauce. Stir in the tomato sauce, lemon juice, and pepper. Bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until lightly thickened, at least 15 and up to 40 minutes. The longer it simmers, the hotter the sauce. If the sauce gets too thick, stir in a little water. Just before serving, stir in the parsley. Serve hot, as a pasta sauce.

When in Rome . . .Arrabbiata = ah-rah-BYAH-tahJUICY B BITS FROM FROM Joe JoeArrabbiata is the Italian word for ”angry.” What's the tie-in with pasta sauce? Maybe your mouth gets mad that the sauce is so hot (well, not my mouth, but maybe your mouth . . . ). is the Italian word for ”angry.” What's the tie-in with pasta sauce? Maybe your mouth gets mad that the sauce is so hot (well, not my mouth, but maybe your mouth . . . ).Now, this is the first, last, and only time I want to hear anything about The Sopranos, but if any of you remember, Tony gave one of his bodyguards, Perry Annunziata, the nickname ”Penne Arrabbiata” because the guy had such a hot temper. So now you're in on the joke. (It was in Season Six if you want to watch it. Good episode.)Have I been called ”Joe Arrabbiata” before? Sure. You could easily add ”Arrabbiata” to the name of just about every Italian I know-Teresa and all her friends included!

Slow-Cooker Sauce Shortcuts Since most Italian sauces only taste better the longer they simmer, ideally, you should have a saucepan sitting on the back burner pretty much all day long. But for those of us with small children (or a fear of burning down the house), leaving a large, uncovered pot of hot sauce around isn't so practical.

I'm not a big slow-cooker person; I usually only use my Crock-Pot to keep sauces hot when I'm having a party. But they come in super handy when you want to keep a sauce a'simmering.

Just prepare any recipe like you normally would, in a saucepan, until it comes to the simmering stage. Then pour (or ladle, if you tend to be a sloppy pourer like me and don't want a hot mess) the sauce into your slow cooker. Set it, forget it, and you'll have an even better sauce (tucked safely away in the corner of the counter) with half the worry.

Who Is This ”Alfredo” and What Has He Done to My Sauce?

Now that we've covered my favorite red sauces, I want to give you the recipes for the best other colored sauces: white and green.