Part 2 (1/2)
Some seventy-five cars pa.s.sed me during the morning. Under supervision the peons worked at moderately good speed; indeed, they compared rather favorably with the rough American laborers with whom I had recently toiled in railroad gangs, in a stone-quarry of Oklahoma, and the cotton-fields of Texas. The endurance of these fellows living on corn and beans is remarkable; they were as superior to the Oriental coolie as their wages to the latter's eight or ten cents a day. In this case, as the world over, the workmen earned about what he was paid, or rather succeeded in keeping his capacity down to the wages paid him. Many galleries of the mine were ”worked on contract,” and almost all gangs had their self-chosen leader. A peon with a bit more standing in the community than his fellows, wearing something or other to suggest his authority and higher place in the world--such perhaps as the pink s.h.i.+rt the haughty ”jefecito” beside me sported--appeared with twelve or more men ready for work and was given a section and paid enough to give his men from fifty to eighty cents a day each and have something over a dollar left for himself. Miners' wages vary much throughout Mexico, from twelve dollars a month to two a day in places no insuperable distances apart. Conditions also differ greatly, according to my experienced compatriots. The striking and booting of the workmen, common in some mines, was never permitted in ”Pinguico.” In Pachuca, for example, this was said to be the universal practice; while in the mines of Chihuahua it would have been as dangerous as to do the same thing to a stick of dynamite. Here the peon's manner was little short of obsequious outwardly, yet one had the feeling that in crowds they were capable of making trouble and those who had fallen upon ”gringoes” in the region had despatched their victims thoroughly, leaving them mutilated and robbed even of their clothing. The charming part of it all was one could never know which of these slinking fellows was a bandit by avocation and saving up his unvented anger for the boss who ordered him about at his labors.
It felt pleasant, indeed, to bask in the sun a half hour after dinner before descending again. Toward five I tied and tagged the sacks of samples and followed them, on peon backs, to the shaft and to the world above with its hot and cold shower-bath, and the Chinaman's promise, thanks to the proximity of Irapuato, of ”stlaybelly pie.” Though the American force numbered several of those fruitless individuals that drift in and out of all mining communities, it was on the whole of rather high caliber. Besides ”Sully the Pug,” a mere human animal, hairy and muscular as a bear, and two ”Texicans,” as those born in the States of some Mexican blood and generally a touch of foreign accent are called, there were two engineers who lived with their ”chinitas,” or illiterate _mestizo_ Mexican wives and broods of peon children down in the valley below the dump-heap. Caste lines were not lacking even among the Americans in the ”camp,” as these call Guanajuato and its mining environs. More than one complained that those who married Mexican girls of unsullied character and even education were rated ”squaw-men”
and more or less ostracized by their fellow countrymen, and especially country-women, while the man who ”picked up an old rounder from the States” was looked upon as an equal. The speech of all Mexico is slovenly from the Castilian point of view. Still more so was that of both the peon and the Americans, who copied the untutored tongue of the former, often ignorant of its faults, and generally not in the least anxious to improve, nor indeed to get any other advantage from the country except the gold and silver they could dig out of it. Laborers and bosses commonly used ”pierra” for piedra; ”sa' pa' fuera” for to leave the mine, ”croquesi” for I believe so, commonly ignorant even of the fact that this is not a single word. In the mess-hall were heard strange mixtures of the two languages, as when a man rising to answer some call shouted over his shoulder: ”Juan, deja mi pie alone!” Thanks to much peon intercourse, almost all the Americans had an unconsciously patronizing air even to their fellows, as many a pedagogue comes to address all the world in the tone of the schoolroom. The Mexican, like the Spaniard, never laughs at the most atrocious attempts at his tongue by foreigners, and even the peons were often extremely quick-witted in catching the idea from a few misp.r.o.nounced words. ”The man with the hair----,” I said one day, in describing a workman I wished summoned; and not for the moment recalling the Castilian for curly, I twirled my fingers in the air.
”Chino!” cried at least a half-dozen peons in the same breath.
Small wonder the Mexican considers the ”gringo” rude. An American boss would send a peon to fetch his key or cigarettes, or on some equally important errand; the workman would run all the way up hill and down again in the rarified air, removing his hat as he handed over the desired article, and the average man from the States would not so much as grunt his thanks.
The engineers on whom our lives depended as often as we descended into or mounted from the mine, had concocted and posted in the engine-room the following ”ten commandments”:
”Notice To Visitors And Others
”Article 1. Be seated on the platform. It is too large for the engineer anyway.
”Art. 2. Spit on the floor. We like to clean up after you.
”Art. 3. Talk to the engineer while he is running. There is no responsibility to his job.
”Art. 4. If the engineer does not know his business, please tell him. He will appreciate it.
”Art. 5. Ask him as many questions as you like. He is paid to answer them.
”Art. 6. Please handle all the bright work. We have nothing to do but clean it.
”Art. 7. Don't spit on the ceiling. We have lost the ladder.
”Art. 8. Should the engineer look angry don't pay any attention to him. He is harmless.
”Art. 9. If you have no cigarettes take his. They grow in his garden.
”Art. 10. If he is not entertaining, report him to the superintendent and he will be fired at once.”
On the second day the scene of my operations was changed to the eighth level, a hundred feet below that of the first. It was a long gallery winding away through the mountain, and connecting a mile beyond with another shaft opening on another hill, so that the heavy air was tempered by a constant mild breeze.
Side shafts, just large enough for the ore-cars to pa.s.s, pierced far back into the mountain at frequent intervals. Back in these it was furnace hot. From them the day-gang took out 115 car-loads, though the chute was blocked now and then by huge rocks that must be ”shot” by a small charge of dynamite stuck on them, a new way of ”shooting the chutes” that was like striking the ear-drums with a club.
The peons placed in each gallery either a cross or a lithograph of the Virgin in a shrine made of a dynamite-box, and kept at least one candle always burning before it. In the morning it was a common sight to see several appear with a bunch of fresh-picked flowers to set up before the image. Most of the men wore a rosary or charm about the neck, which they did not remove even when working naked, and all crossed themselves each time they entered the mine. Not a few chanted prayers while the cage was descending. As often as they pa.s.sed the gallery-shrine, they left off for an instant the vilest oaths, in which several boys from twelve to fourteen excelled, to s.n.a.t.c.h off their hats to the Virgin, then instantly took up their cursing again. Whenever I left the mine they begged the half-candle I had left, and set it up with the rest. Yet they had none of the touchiness of the Hindu about their superst.i.tions, and showed no resentment whatever even when a ”gringo” stopped to light his cigarette at their improvised ”altars.”
Trusted miners hired to search the others for stolen ore as they leave the shaft were sometimes waylaid on the journey home and beaten almost or quite to death. Once given a position of authority, they were harsher with their own kind than were the white men. The scarred and seared old ”Pinguico” searcher, who stood at his block three times each twenty-four hours, had already killed three men who thus attacked him. Under no provocation whatever would the peons fight underground, but lay for their enemies only outside. A s.h.i.+ft-boss in a neighboring mine remained seven weeks below, having his food sent down to him, and continued to work daily with miners who had sworn to kill him once they caught him on earth. One of our engineers had long been accustomed at another mine to hand his revolver to the searcher when the s.h.i.+ft appeared and to arm himself with a heavy club. One day the searcher gave the superintendent a ”tip,” and when the hundred or more were lined up they were suddenly commanded to take off their _huarachas_. A gasp of dismay sounded, but all hastily s.n.a.t.c.hed off their sandals and something like a bushel of high-grade ore in thin strips lay scattered on the ground. But a few mornings later the searcher was found dead half way between the mine and his home.
Some of the mines round about Guanajuato were in a most chaotic state, especially those of individual owners.h.i.+p. The equipment was often so poor that fatal accidents were common, deaths even resulting from rocks falling down the shafts. Among our engineers was one who had recently come from a mine where during two weeks' employment he pulled out from one to four corpses daily, until ”it got so monotonous” he resigned. In that same mine it was customary to lock in each s.h.i.+ft until the relieving one arrived, and many worked four or five s.h.i.+fts, thirty-two to forty hours without a moment of rest, swallowing a bit of food now and then with a sledge in one hand. ”High-graders,” as ore-thieves are called, were numerous. The near-by ”Sirena” mine was reputed to have in its personnel more men who lived by stealing ore than honest workmen. There ran the story of a new boss in a mine so near ours that we could hear its blasting from our eighth level, long dull thuds that seemed to run through the mountain like a shudder through a human body, who was making his first underground inspection when his light suddenly went out and he felt the cold barrel of a revolver against his temple. A peon voice sounded in the darkness close to his ear:
”No te muevas, hijo de----, si quieres vivir!”
Another light was struck and he made out some twenty peons, each with a sack of ”high-grade,” and was warned to take his leave on the double-quick and not to look around on penalty of a worse fate than that of Lot's wife.
Bandit gangs were known to live in out-of-the-way corners of several mines, bringing their blankets and tortillas with them and making a business of stealing ore. Not even the most experienced mining engineer could more quickly recognize ”pay dirt” than the peon population of Guanajuato vicinity.
Though he is obsequious enough under ordinary circ.u.mstances, the mine peon often has a deep-rooted hatred of the American, which vents itself chiefly in cold silence, unless opportunity makes some more effective way possible. Next on his black-list comes the Spaniard, who is reputed a heartless usurer who long enjoyed protection under Diaz. Third, perhaps, come the priests, though these are endured as a necessary evil, as we endure a bad government. The padre of Calderon drifted up to the mine one day to pay his respects and drink the mine health in good Scotch whisky. Gradually he brought the conversation around to the question of disobedience among the peons, and summed up his advice to the Americans in a vehement explosion:
”Fine them! Fine them often, and much!