Part 19 (1/2)

11.

Coffee as an export crop developed relatively late in Central America because square-rigged s.h.i.+ps, then in use, could only travel downwind easily. The trade winds from the Atlantic blew s.h.i.+ps westward toward the coast of Central America, but there was no easy way to sail back east. The advent of clipper s.h.i.+ps, which could sail closer to the wind, and then steams.h.i.+ps, made coffee exports more feasible.

12.

A ladino ladino in Guatemala generally refers to someone with mixed European and Indian blood, or a in Guatemala generally refers to someone with mixed European and Indian blood, or a mestizo mestizo. Pure-blooded Indians could also become ladinos ladinos, however, if they adopted Western dress and lifestyles.

13.

From 1890 to 1892, 1,200 laborers from the Gilbert Islands of the Pacific were brought by blackbirders blackbirders, or slavers, to work on the coffee plantations of Guatemala. Fewer than 800 survived the trip, and a third of these died in the first year. The last of the survivors were finally returned to the Gilbert Islands in 1908.

14.

Of course, not all finca finca owners abused their laborers. On many plantations in Brazil, Guatemala, and elsewhere, enlightened owners treated workers as humanely as possible, paid higher than standard wages, and provided some medical care. Even in such cases, however, the Indians remained poor peons, with little hope of upward mobility, while the owners lived in relative affluence. owners abused their laborers. On many plantations in Brazil, Guatemala, and elsewhere, enlightened owners treated workers as humanely as possible, paid higher than standard wages, and provided some medical care. Even in such cases, however, the Indians remained poor peons, with little hope of upward mobility, while the owners lived in relative affluence.

15.

Costa Rica had no dye industry (indigo or cochineal) because during the colonial period the Spanish would not allow it. Costa Rica thus had motivation to try coffee before Guatemala, and it was Costa Rica that pioneered new growing and processing techniques. Where Indians did remain in Costa Rica, however, as in Orosi, they were dispossessed of their land just as in Guatemala.

16.

Nonetheless, at least early American coffee was fresh roasted. ”To have it very good, it should be roasted immediately before it is made,” wrote Eliza Leslie in an 1837 cookbook, ”doing no more than the quant.i.ty you want at that time.” Another 1845 writer advised, ”Do not let it boil,” but she was a voice crying in the wilderness.

17.

See the end of chapter 1 for a description of the 1823 coffee crisis.

18.

The New York roaster Lewis...o...b..rn was actually the first to sell packaged coffee. Osborn's Celebrated Prepared Java Coffee came on the market in 1860, but it disappeared three years later, killed by the war economy.

19.

Abiah Folger was Benjamin Franklin's mother.

20.

Coffee adulteration was also prevalent in Europe. While traveling on the continent in 1878, Mark Twain objected to European coffee that ”resembles the real thing as hypocrisy resembles holiness.”

21.