Volume Ii Part 8 (1/2)
”The stranger hesitated. '_Perhaps_,' quoth he, 'my Lady d.u.c.h.ess.'
”Oh, if then you were to have seen the indignant glance that Lady Let.i.tia flung on the courteous stranger, while it would seem involuntarily she echoed, or rather screamed, '_perhaps!_' For you must know that to this adverb the Lady Let.i.tia hath, and entertains an entire, instinctive, and unconquerable detestation, to the very extinction, I verily credit, of every other given adverb in English grammar, be it _aye_, or be it _no_.
”'But,' continued the gallant stranger, 'I yet may speak in more decided terms. It is my full determination to proceed to Brussels, unless ought unforeseen and unexpected should arise to prevent it. I most respectfully and sincerely wish your Grace and friends every prosperity, a safe and expeditious voyage, and a pleasant journey.'
”Then bowing with all the grace of one who had been familiar with courts, he took off his hat, which he several times waved on high, until the packet got under weigh. I could not but observe that when he took Adelaide by the hand to lead her on board, that my daughter coloured most deeply. Indeed I cannot but apprehend that an _impression_ has been made on her young and feeling heart. But this is _entre nous_. Is it not most strange, and does it not look exceedingly like _love at first sight_? But who can be 'the _unknown_ knight' of Chester walls? I can form no opinion, but I am not certainly inclined to agree with Adelaide that he is a prince _incognito_.
”But to resume my narrative:--We embarked at Dover on Friday morning, at eight o'clock, on board a neutral vessel bound for Calais; it was a Flemish packet, named _De Zee-Schilpad_, Captain Bulderende master. The weather when we left Dover was fine, but the breeze soon became squally, attended with heavy rain, and a rough and swelling sea; but in the event our pa.s.sage proved a good one. Many of the sailors were Flemish, and some were French; and, I must say, the most lubberly and awkward I had ever beheld, _par example_, one of them sat down to haul a rope! So that really we felt far more indebted to the wind and waves than to the nautical skill of either French or Flemish sailors. And I must own, and am quite free to confess, that their inferiority to our own gallant tars, in verity, did not displease me.
”Calais, as we approached it, is seen to much advantage, the spire of _Notre Dame_, and the turrets of the _Maison de Ville_ n.o.bly arising over the waves, have certainly a fine and imposing effect; it is indeed a neat and handsome town; the harbour presents a pleasant and enlivening scene, and is defended by many forts. The citadel is strongly fortified, and the city surrounded with walls, gates, &c. The parish church was built by the English, and has been much admired for its architecture.
The fishery here for herrings and mackerel is considerable, and of both kinds we partook with much _gout_ during our short sojourn in that ancient city.
”You know what an incurable enthusiast my Adelaide is. During the entire progress of our voyage, which occupied some five hours, the whole way from Dover to Calais Adelaide sat on deck, and could not be prevailed upon, by any persuasion or entreaty whatever, to descend into our cabin, although the wind, which was fair, blew also fresh, and accompanied with some showers; still stationed on deck sat Adelaide, intently gazing upon the Shakespeare-cliffs,
”From the dread summit of this chalky bourn; Look up a height ... the shrill gorg'd lark so far Cannot be seen or heard:--do but look up!”
”So intently did Adelaide gaze, that one would have thought that the spell-bound charm that fascinated her looks to those lofty cliffs, could only be broken and dispelled by the wand of the enchanter. The following quatrain is my Adelaide's:--
Ye chalky cliffs! unchang'd ye stand, As pencil'd by great Shakespeare's hand; Still to the clouds your summits rise, Nor perish until nature dies!
”Never once changing her position on deck sat the fair enthusiast, until cliff and sky became commingled in one dark-blue ma.s.s, and soon completely lost in aerial distance.
”We viewed the church of _Notre Dame_ at Calais, where there is an ill-executed, clumsy statue of the Virgin and Child in statuary marble; the walls are surrounded with paintings of Scriptural subjects, but the design and the execution are very _mediocre_. As we walked around the walls of this memorable town, we could not but recollect, with the deepest interest, that this city had for upwards of two hundred years appertained to the crown of Britain;--that here had been manifested the most generous and devoted love of country;--that here our own Edward triumphed over the arms, as the benevolent Emma did over the hearts, of the patriot citizens of Calais.
”Once more I tread the sunny region of merry France, endeared from youthful recollection; once more too I tread the same soil that holds him I love the best!--no, _not_ the BEST!--in this earthly globe, and no longer two seas separate me from him whom I acknowledge by the two most endearing t.i.tles of my husband, and my Adelaide's father. Yes, dearest friend, this is consoling, and it is balm to the wearied heart of a poor exile roaming in a far and foreign land!
”But I must continue our route:--From Calais we proceeded by Boulogne-Sur-Mer of which I shall just observe, _en pa.s.sant_, that it is a handsome town, it is said of great antiquity, and is very remarkable from the circ.u.mstance of its having been selected as the port from which the Romans embarked when they invaded Britain; and here still remain the fragments of a Roman tower built during the reign of Caligula. From Boulogne we proceeded to Amiens, where we remained for a couple of days to repose from the fatigues of our journey, and if it will not _fatigue_ you, you shall have a very brief sketch of that fine city.
”Amiens is a city of great antiquity, it was called _Ambianum_ by the Romans, and is noticed by Caesar in his Commentaries.--Amiens is the capital of Picardy, and an episcopal See; it is the _Samaro-Briva_ of the ancients. This city is situated on the navigable river Somme, which traverses it in three branches, all which unite below the town, beneath the bridge of St. Michael.
”Amiens is a rich and flouris.h.i.+ng city, and abounds with numerous manufactories; it is very pleasantly situated in a fertile and well cultivated country. It is the residence of the governor of Picardy.[29]
[29] Since the Revolution Amiens has become the capital of the department of the Somme, and there is no longer a governor of Picardy. Amiens has been remarkable in our days for the definitive treaty of peace signed in that city, 25th of March, 1802. The room where it was signed is shown to strangers.
”Amiens is encompa.s.sed by a wall and other fortifications, the ramparts are planted with trees, which form an agreeable walk; the mall, called _l'Autoy_, is also much admired as a delightful promenade. The houses are well built, the streets are s.p.a.cious, and the town is embellished with regular handsome squares and public buildings; namely, the palace of the Bailiwick, where the governor of Picardy resides, the _maison de ville_, or town-hall, the citadel, the square, or _place des fleurs_, and the great market square, all which are well deserving the attention of the traveller. There are ten churches in this city, independent of the great cathedral of _Notre Dame_, which is a truly sumptuous and most magnificent pile, it is built in the florid style of gothic architecture, and is accounted one of the finest cathedrals in France.
The nave of the church is greatly and deservedly admired. The building contains numerous aisles, chapels, and altars, all gorgeously decorated with shrines, statues, paintings, and monuments. Many of the statues are of marble, as also the monuments; some others, for instance that of the Bishop of Amiens, (whose name unluckily I have forgotten,) who founded the cathedral, are of bronze. There are some oil paintings in the nave, the subjects taken from Holy Writ, but the execution is very indifferent.
”As we entered this venerable pile the priests and choir were chanting the high ma.s.s, while the loud, solemn, pealing of the organ's swell echoed from aisle to altar, wafted the soul beyond the narrow confines of mortality. The grand altar was brilliantly lighted up, the perfumed incense arose in clouds to the fretted ceiling, the congregation seemed sunk in deep and dumb devotion; the service was enchantingly performed, some exquisite voices a.s.sisted; and the scene was truly captivating and impressive, much to charm the eye and move the heart.
”We have been at this place (Lille)[30] now for four days, but depart on the morrow for Brussels; and indeed it is with regret that we leave this delightful city, of which I adventure to give you a brief historical detail:
”Lisle, or Lille, is a large and strongly fortified city in the north-east of France, and the capital of French Flanders; it is situated on the navigable river Deule. The origin of this town is ascribed by tradition to Julius Caesar, who is said to have built a castle on an island in the Deule, whence it derived the name of Insula, Isla, and eventually of Lisle; the Flemish name is Ryssel; the Latin, _Insula Flandrorum_; it is now called Lille.
[30] Since the French Revolution Lille has become the capital of the department of the north.
”Lille is situated in a dead flat, the soil whereof is rich and fertile, and the people industrious. The Deule, although a small river, yet is navigable, and is divided into several branches, parts of which supply the moats of the citadel, and the fosses of the town; while one branch of this river, called _La Ba.s.se Deule_, intersects the city. The form of Lille is that of an irregular oval; it is a large and handsome town, its appearance is imposing from its extent, its fortifications, its ca.n.a.ls, its bridges, its squares, and public buildings. It is a.s.suredly one of the handsomest cities of France; much architectural elegance is displayed not only in private edifices, but particularly in the public buildings, viz. _la bourse_, or the exchange, crowned with its cupola and minaret, the barracks, the corn market, the theatre, five princ.i.p.al hospitals, besides others. _La maison de ville_,[31] or town-hall, adjoins the grand place, or square; it formerly had been the palace of the Dukes of Burgundy; it was built in the year 1430 by Duke Philip the Good.