Volume I Part 17 (2/2)

We left this anchorage the next morning with a fresh breeze of wind from south-east; as we steered round Cape Tribulation the sea ran so heavy that our boat, which was towed astern, filled and overset, and in a moment went to pieces. The wind had now increased to a gale, and the weather threatened so much that we were induced to take advantage of a bight to the northward of the Cape, in which we anch.o.r.ed at three quarters of a mile from the mouth of a rivulet, the entrance of which was blocked up by a ridge of rocks on which the water rippled; we were here tolerably well sheltered by high land from the wind, and the water was quite smooth.

June 26.

On the following day, the weather continued so unfavourable that we remained at the anchorage, and Mr. Bedwell was sent to examine the opening, which was called Blomfield's Rivulet. On his return he reported the bar to be too shoal to admit an entrance to vessels of greater draught than four feet, but that having pa.s.sed it, the inlet runs up a considerable distance, with soundings from three to four fathoms.

Near the entrance upon the bank of the inlet several huts were noticed, and near them Mr. Bedwell found a canoe; which, being hollowed out of the trunk of a tree, was of very different construction to any we had before seen; its length was twenty-one feet, but its greatest breadth in the bilge did not exceed fifteen inches, whilst at the gunwale the opening was only from six to eight and a half inches wide; an outrigger, projecting about two feet, was neatly attached to one side, which prevented its liability to overset, and at each end was a projection, from fifteen to twenty inches long, on which the natives carry their fire, or sit; nothing was found in the canoe but two paddles and a long pole.

The bay on which we had anch.o.r.ed was called, at first, Shelter Bay; but it was afterwards changed to Weary Bay in consequence of Captain Cook's having given that name to the coast in this vicinity.

The weather was so thick and unsettled during the afternoon, that we did not leave this anchorage until nine o'clock the next morning.

June 27.

When it was found necessary that we should take advantage of the first safe anchorage, where we might remain during the continuance of the bad weather, as well as repair our losses and erect the boat that we had on board in frame, to replace the one we had lately lost; as Endeavour River would afford us the necessary convenience and shelter it was determined that we should visit it, and as its distance from Weary Bay did not exceed ten leagues, there was every reason to expect that we should reach it early enough to enter before dark. At half past ten o'clock we pa.s.sed between the Hope Islands and the Reef, a. The course was then directed for the hills on the south side of the entrance of Endeavour River, the highest of which, a conspicuous peaked hill, received the name of Mount Cook, in memorial of our celebrated navigator, who suffered so much distress and anxiety at this place. The bay south of it was that which he first examined for shelter after his s.h.i.+p had been got off the rocks, but it was found to be shoal and unfit for his purpose.* It was then that Endeavour River was discovered; and there, as is well known, the s.h.i.+p was repaired sufficiently to enable her to proceed to Batavia.

(*Footnote. Hawkesworth volume 3 page 149.)

We arrived off the south head of Endeavour River early in the afternoon, and anch.o.r.ed close to it in three fathoms, with the outer point bearing South-East. The wind was too fresh to examine the bar until the evening, and it was then too late to enter.

June 28.

But early the next morning the cutter was warped in, in doing which she grounded on the north side of the bar in eight feet. As the water was quite smooth, this little delay occasioned no damage, and by twelve o'clock she was secured to the sh.o.r.e, within ten feet of a steep beach on the south side of the entrance; in all probability the very same spot that Captain Cook landed his stores upon forty-nine years ago.

CHAPTER 6.

Transactions at Endeavour River, and intercourse with the Natives.

Examine the River.

Geognostical Remarks.

Leave Endeavour River, and resume the examination of the coast.

Anchor among Howick's Group, and under Flinders' Group.

Explore Princess Charlotte's Bay, and the Islands and Reefs as far as Cape York, anchoring in the way on various parts of the coast.

The cutter nearly wrecked at Escape River.

Loss of anchor under Turtle Island.

Pa.s.s round Cape York and through Torres Strait, by the Investigator's route.

1819. June 28.

As soon as the vessel was secured, the boat's frame was landed, and three of our people commenced its erection. Previously however to this, the precaution was taken of burning the gra.s.s, to avoid a repet.i.tion of the revengeful and mischievous trick which the natives formerly played Captain Cook; for in a fit of rage, at not being allowed to take away some turtles that were lying on the s.h.i.+ps' deck, they set fire to the gra.s.s to windward of the tents, by which many stores and sails were consumed.*

(*Footnote. Hawkesworth volume 3 page 177.)

The moment that a few embers from our fireplace were scattered under the roots, the gra.s.s was in a blaze, and the flames rushed along with frightful rapidity and destructive effect. Having thus very soon cleared sufficient s.p.a.ce for our purpose, a sail was suspended between two trees, to shelter the people from the sun at their work upon the boat, the keel of which was laid the same evening. In the afternoon we discovered two streamlets near the tent, from which we obtained our water, and wood was cut close to the beach.

Near the watering-place were some natives' bark-huts and gourds; and two or three baskets, made of the leaf of the cabbage palm, were hanging on the branches of the surrounding bushes. The owners of these implements were not seen, but it was evident they were near at hand, from the recent appearance of their traces; the bones of the kangaroo and scales of fish were strewed about their fireplaces, and close by were ovens similar to those of Goold Island.

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