Part 23 (2/2)
Then, besides, Newton-Stewart has a monument of Samuel Rutherford to live up to. And they ought to have one of his namesake, Samuel Rutherford Crockett, who has done so much for Galloway.
It was in honour of his ”Raiders” that we took the longest way to Ayr.
Some of the best things in that book happened near Loch Trool, so we wanted to see Loch Trool. Bruce was there too; but this was a Crockett tour. We should have gone perhaps, even if the run had been dull, for it's only thirteen miles from Newton-Stewart, paradise of fishermen, to the hidden lake; but the thirteen miles turned out to be a panorama of beauty. Sir S. was surprised by its loveliness, though he knew by heart Burns's poem, ”The Banks of the Cree.” We did not come at once to the river; but from House o' Hill (delicious name!) we plunged into a wild, forgotten paradise. The road lay under an arbour of trees like an emerald tunnel, with a break here and there in the green wall to show a blue s.h.i.+mmer of mountains and hills in the distance. We seemed to have slipped into the hole leading to fairyland and pulled the hole in after us; but I knew I was not going to enjoy getting there as much as if my gray bonnet and coat had been on the front seat instead of Mrs. West's purple beauties. It was suddenly that we came into sight and sound of the river, and so deep was the stillness that we might have strayed into the haunt of a sleeping nymph. Nothing moved but the rus.h.i.+ng brown water, and there was no sound, when we stopped to listen, but its joyous song and the humming of bees in bracken and heather.
Basil can ”make believe” more easily and less stiffly than Sir S., because he is an author, and used to stringing whimsies together. He and I ”pretended” that the bees were a fairy band, playing to a hidden audience in a theatre roofed with the silver sheen of arching ferns.
Wafts of perfume came to us, cooled in woodsy dells, or warmed on suns.h.i.+ny banks of flowers; but not a soul could be seen anywhere, nor a house. We knew that this was an inhabited world only by the wires stretched across the river for the sending of letters and parcels.
Sunset-time had not nearly come yet, but already a silver slit was torn in the blue of the sky; and for the second time the heather moon was smiling its bright semicircular smile, as if to say, ”Make the most of me, Barrie, _your_ time is short!” Yet how could I make the most of her when I could see only my knight's back, with a purple shoulder as close to his as possible, and the heather moon was _ours_?
Suddenly Basil said, ”Oh, there's your heather moon! I thought of you yesterday after it rose until it set, and wondered what you were doing.
I do believe this _is_ different from other moons. Don't you see, young as it is, how it has power to change the yellow of the sunlight, seeming to alloy it with silver?”
I did see, but thought I must have fancied the effect, until he saw it too. (We often think and see and say the same things, which is nice, but not so exciting as the society of a man who thinks different things and makes you argue.) The silver pouring down from that small crescent seemed to sift through the strong golden light in a separate and distinct radiance. It s.h.i.+mmered on the sea of waving hills and billowing mountains that opened out before us, as if sprinkling a glitter of sequins over the vivid green and amber and purple. Wherever there was shadow this pale glimmer painted it with ethereal colours, like the backs of rainbow fish moving under water. I might have jumped out of the car and found the rainbow key, but n.o.body wanted it now!
”Just as that young, young moon has power to s.h.i.+ne through the strong afternoon sunlight, so a girl may all in a moment throw her influence over a group of people older and more experienced than herself,” said Basil, smiling at me, and then at Mrs. James, as if he didn't mind her hearing the flowery compliment.
”I don't know any such girl in real life,” said I; ”but you might work her up for your book.”
”I shall have to put her in, if the book's to be written,” said he.
By and by we came to the lake, or, rather, far above it; and Sir S.
stopped the car to let us get out and look down. The water was a clear green with glints of purple, as if beds of heather grew underneath.
There were jagged, bare rocks, and rocks whose shoulders were half covered as if with torn coats of faded brocade, dim silver of lichen, and pale pink of wild flowers. I hoped that Sir S. might join me for a look at the heather moon lying deep in the lake like a broken bracelet, but he didn't come. He looked at me very kindly from a distance, not coldly, yet not warmly, and he stayed with Mrs. West.
It was Basil who told me about Robert Bruce and his men hiding here, and rolling huge stones on the heads of the English soldiers who marched along the bank of the lake in search of the ”outlaws.” It seemed as if nothing terrible could have happened in so sweet a wilderness; but that was not the only horror. There were other wild deeds in history, and in the story of the ”Raiders,” memories of hunts for Covenanters, and great killings. But now all is peace, and I should have thought Loch Trool forgotten by the world if, in a dell of birch, rowan, hazel trees, and great pines like green umbrellas, I had not spied a roof.
Sir S. said it was the roof of Lord Galloway's shooting-lodge, loved by its owner because it was ”out of tourist zone.” So much the worse for tourists! So much the better for Lord Galloway!
I should hate to think of the road to Loch Trool smoking with motor dust. Of course our own Gray Dragon's pure dust is a different matter!
As we ran out of Crockett land into Ayrs.h.i.+re we came into Wallace land; for every foot of Scotland is taken up twice over by something or somebody wonderful. There isn't an inch left for new history-makers. If we could see those ”emanations” Sir S. talks of--those ghost pictures--as far as the eye could reach we should see men marching, splendid men and women, too, who have made the world s.h.i.+ne with their deeds, processions coming from every direction, out of the dim beginning of things up to the present day.
After the wildness of Loch Trool we had a country of plenteousness and peace. Basil said it was like a Surrey set down by the sea, so I suppose Surrey has big trees and flowery hedges and rolling downs, purple with heather. But surely no heather can be as purple as Scottish heather?
The sands of Girvan seemed to float like a golden scarf on the blue sea, and the town looked a romantic, mediaeval place till we shot into it.
Then we were disillusioned as to its age; but Ailsa Craig was n.o.ble in the distance, and a few members of the gull colony had flapped over to give town dwellers and visitors a sad serenade. ”Gulls, golfers, and geologists all love Girvan,” Basil said.
”Have you put that down in your notebook?” I inquired.
”Not in those words. But I jotted down something about this town in advance from authorities I've looked up. I generally keep two books going: one in which I put the things I want to see, and ideas for plots sometimes tangled up with a sort of diary; and another book of thoughts about places I have already seen--thoughts I can weave into a story in one way or another.”
”You haven't once written in either of your books to-day!” I accused him.
”No. I told you I'd given up note-taking for the present. I'm all at sea. But just now it's a beautiful if not very calm sea.”
”When it quiets down you'll begin again,” I consoled him. ”How I should love to see a real, live author's notebook! It would be so _useful_ to know how you manage to--to----”
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