Part 21 (1/2)

As paper patterns soon wear out, after a waist and skirt have been perfectly fitted, it is a good plan to cut an exact pattern of cambric, both skirt and waist, tracing seams and notching the parts. This will enable the home dressmaker to cut and make all ordinary dresses with little trouble and with but one trying on. It is always well to try on once, as materials differ in texture and a slight change may be necessary.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PLACING PATTERNS

At the left, on plain or symmetrical designs; at the right, on figured or napped goods. _a_--Half of front gore; _b_--Second gore; _c_--Third gore; _d_--Back gore; _e_--Front waist; _f_--Under arm piece; _g_--Side back; _h_--Back; _i_--Outside sleeve; _j_--Under sleeve; _c'

d'_--Piecing of gores _c, d_.]

[Sidenote: Placing Patterns]

If the material is plain, has no nap, or if the design is perfectly symmetrical, the gores may be alternated, the top of one gore coming opposite the bottom of the next. The half pattern of the front gore is always laid on a _lengthwise fold_ of the goods. If the goods is wide, the other gores may be cut double with the cloth folded lengthwise. With narrow goods, the cloth may be folded end to end after the middle gore has been cut out, and the other gores cut double. Care should be taken that the line of holes in the middle of the gores runs exactly in a line with the warp of the material, i. e., parallel to the selvage.

If the goods has a figure, the design should run upwards. Any nap should run downward, except with velvet or velveteen, in which it should run upwards. With such goods, the gores if cut double must be placed on a lengthwise fold, with the lengths running the same way. If the goods is narrow, the gores may have to be cut single, reversing the pattern (turning it over) so that both pieces may not be for the same side.

[Sidenote: Pinning Patterns]

Pin the middle of the pattern to the goods and smooth towards each end, pinning securely at top and bottom. Avoid too many pins and pin carefully, otherwise the pattern will be displaced.

[Sidenote: Cutting Out]

After the pattern is securely pinned, cut out the gores, using long, sharp shears. Care should be taken not to lift the material from the table, not to have jagged, uneven edges, as both time and material will be wasted in straightening them. Open the shears as wide as possible, taking a long sweep of the material, and do not allow the points of the shears to come together. Mark all notches with basting thread, tailor's chalk, or notch the goods if it does not ravel.

The back gores should be cut in the same way. They are usually wider than the front gores and may require piecing, which should be done along the warp threads.

Now remove the pattern, pin carefully all pieces together and fold as little as possible. The trinity--_pin_, _baste_, _press_--should be written in large letters in every sewing room, for much of the beauty of the gown depends upon these three.

[Sidenote: Joining the Skirt]

To join the skirt, pin the side gores to the front gores, beginning at the top, with pins running across the seams, then begin at the top of the skirt and baste downward, allowing all unevenness to come out at the bottom. Baste straight and evenly, taking one st.i.tch at a time. Several st.i.tches should never be taken at once on thick or piled goods, as the side next to the sewer is apt to be fuller in that case. When all seams are basted, try on the skirt and make all changes necessary before st.i.tching. Both the outside skirt and any under or ”drop” skirt should be fitted as carefully as a waist.

[Sidenote: Lined Skirt]

If the skirt is to be lined the lining should be made and fitted first, then ripped and the outside carefully basted on the lining, being well stretched over the lining, care being taken to have the warp of the outside and the lining run the same way. This will prevent the lining from drawing the goods.

[Sidenote: St.i.tching Skirts]

A st.i.tch of medium length should be used on all seams whether white goods or cloth. If the st.i.tch is too long, the seam will ”gap” and will show the thread; if too short, the seam is apt to draw. The line of st.i.tching must be absolutely parallel inside or outside of the basting or the curve will be ruined. Use silk or the best cotton for st.i.tching skirts and be sure that the needle is not too coa.r.s.e.

[Sidenote: Finis.h.i.+ng Seams]

After st.i.tching, all bastings along the seams should be taken out by cutting the thread in several places. Never pull a basting the length of the skirt. The seams should be opened and pressed according to directions. The seams may be finished with a taffeta binding, overcast, st.i.tched flat or notched, as the case demands.

[Sidenote: Stiffening]

If stiffening is used at the bottom of a lined skirt it should be fitted to each lining gore separately and securely st.i.tched. A light weight canvas should be st.i.tched to a heavy cloth skirt at the bottom, if several rows of st.i.tching or braid are to finish the bottom of the skirt.

[Sidenote: Placket]

The placket may be finished before the two back gores are pinned to the front, if preferred. If done before joining the gores the placket can be pressed better and the front is not so liable to be crushed. On the left side of the skirt sew an underlap of sufficient length to extend well below the end of the opening. Face the right side of the opening with a piece of the goods, or tape not too wide, hem or cat-st.i.tch to the skirt, and finish with hooks and eyes, loops, or any fastening that will secure the placket.

[Sidenote: Putting on Band]