Part 15 (1/2)

Shadow embroidery is worked on the wrong side of thin material, using the cat st.i.tch. The outline of the design only shows on the right side, the body of the design being seen dimly through the material.

[Sidenote: Arrow Heads]

The arrow head and crow's foot are ornamental fastenings used in fine tailoring as endings for seams, tucks, plaits, and at corners. They are made as shown in the ill.u.s.tration.

Mercerized cotton, linen, or any of the embroidery silks can be used for these st.i.tches, in all sizes and colors, or they can be worked with ordinary thread, cotton or linen, sewing silk, or twist. Cotton thread wears better than linen.

HEMS

[Sidenote: Folding Hems]

A hem is a fold of goods twice folded to protect a raw edge. The first turn or fold of the hem is the most important. It should be straight and even, _folded to a thread_, for upon it depends the beauty of the hem.

The hem should always be turned towards the worker and creased firmly, but never pleated along the fold. First crease the narrow fold, then crease the second fold the desired width, marking by a measure and baste not too near the edge. The first fold _along_ the _woof_ threads should be at least one-fourth of an inch in width, as the woof threads give or stretch more than the warp threads; otherwise it will not lie flat.

[Sidenote: Sewing Hems]

In sewing the hem, the needle should take up only the edge to be hemmed down and just enough to hold on the cloth or lining. In white work the st.i.tches should be fine, showing as little as possible.

[Sidenote: Bias Hem]

All bias and curved edges should have the first fold basted. In cloth or silk this first basting thread should match the material and not be taken out.

[Sidenote: Faced hem]

A facing or faced hem is also used as a protection to the edge of a garment. A true bias or fitted facing should be used for a facing if the edges of the garment are curved. An extension hem is one in which the whole width of the hem is used.

[Ill.u.s.tration: HEMMING

_a_--Shows method of cutting to do away with a clumsey corner.]

[Sidenote: Slip-St.i.tching]

Slip-st.i.tching or invisible hemming is done on silk, wool, and thick material. The hem is pressed with an iron, a st.i.tch as fine as possible is taken on the surface of the cloth and the needle slipped under and through the first fold, drawing the thread lightly. The needle and thread used in this st.i.tch must be very fine.

[Ill.u.s.tration: MITERED CORNERS

Method of Folding and Cutting.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: ROLLED HEM AND WHIPPED GATHERS

_a_--Rolled Hem Gathered; _b_--Whipped Roll; _c_--Double Whipped; _d_--Roll Hemmed; _e_--Gathers Sewed to Band.]

[Sidenote: Rolled Hem]