Part 23 (2/2)
_The Grand Canon of the Yellowstone to Junction Valley._
Distance twenty-two miles.[BP] From the Grand Canon north lies the true scenic portion of the tourist route. Hitherto, the main attractions have been the geyser basins, the Yellowstone Lake, and the Grand Canon. The tourist has probably frequently expressed his disappointment at not finding as much rugged mountain scenery as he had expected. But from this point on he will have no cause to complain.
[BP] The distances given in this chapter are only approximate, the surveys for a wagon road from the canon to Mammoth Hot Springs, via Mt. Washburn, not being yet completed.
_Mt. Washburn_ (12 miles) is the most celebrated peak in the Park, and the first to receive its present name. Its prominence justifies its notoriety, but the real cause of it is the fact that for eight years the main tourist route lay across it. From its summit the Washburn party received the first definite confirmation of the truth of the rumors that led them into this region. All reports and magazine articles which first gave a knowledge of the Park to the world were written by persons who had crossed this mountain. As the view from its summit is comprehensive and grand, covering almost the entire Park, it of course figured prominently in all narratives. Tourists fell into the custom established by the first explorers, of leaving their cards in a receptacle for the purpose on the summit. Many eminent names are to be seen there. It is a matter for congratulation that the progress upon the road system will soon restore this mountain to its former place in the tourist route.
[Ill.u.s.tration:
_Terry Engr. Co._ _U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories._
Tower Falls.]
_Tower Falls_ (20 miles) is perhaps the most graceful cataract in the Park, and should never be pa.s.sed without a visit. It is on Tower Creek only a short distance back from the Yellowstone. Lieutenant Doane says in his report:[BQ]
”Nothing can be more chastely beautiful than this lovely cascade, hidden away in the dim light of overshadowing rocks and woods, its very voice hushed to a low murmur, unheard at the distance of a few hundred yards. Thousands might pa.s.s by within a half mile and not dream of its existence; but once seen, it pa.s.ses to the list of most pleasant memories.”
[BQ] Page 8, ”Yellowstone Expedition of 1870.” See Appendix E.
Near this point on both banks of the river are numerous sulphur fumaroles, the last evidence of subterraneous fire which the tourist will encounter on his trip. A little way above the mouth of the stream is the old Bannock Ford, the same by which Colter crossed in 1807. It is the only practicable ford within twenty miles in either direction.
_Junction b.u.t.te_ (22 miles) is on the right bank of the Yellowstone in the angle between that stream and the East Fork. It stands not only near one of the most important stream junctions in the Park, but also near a not less important road junction. It is a very striking object.
Its summit is nearly flat, and its sides near the summit are perpendicular. Below this is a steep slope composed of enormous ma.s.ses of finely broken stone disengaged from the cliff by the force of the elements. It is a fitting landmark for its important situation.
[Ill.u.s.tration:
_Terry Engr. Co_ _U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories._
First Bridge Over the Yellowstone.]
_Baronett's Bridge_ crosses the river immediately opposite Junction b.u.t.te. It is the first and only bridge yet (1895) built across the Yellowstone within the limits of the Park. It was built by the well known mountaineer, J. H. Baronett, in the spring of 1871, for the convenience of Clark's Fork miners. It was partially destroyed by the Nez Perces in 1877, but was repaired by Howard's command, and still further repaired the following year by Baronett and Norris. In 1880, it was replaced by a more substantial structure. At present it enjoys the unique distinction of being a private toll bridge on a government reservation.
_Junction Valley_,[BR] described elsewhere, is a name properly applicable to the valley inclosed by Crescent Hill, Mt. Washburn, Specimen Ridge, and the mountains north of Lamar River. This valley, and those of tributary streams, form the largest treeless tract in the Park.
[BR] The popular name for this locality is ”Yancey's,” from John Yancey, who has long held a lease in the Valley of Lost Creek at the foot of Crescent Hill. He has kept a sort of hotel or stopping place for the convenience of travelers to Cooke City, as well as for tourists between the Grand Canon and Mammoth Hot Springs by way of Mt.
Washburn.
_Amethyst Mountain_, _Specimen Ridge_, and the _Fossil Forests_ are names at once suggestive of the action of geological agencies which have been described in another chapter. Amethyst, limpid quartz, milky quartz, chalcedony, carnelian, prase, chrysoprase, banded agate, flint, jaspers of all colors, semi-opal, calcite, and many other varieties abound. The forest petrifactions present one of the most interesting scientific problems in the Park.
The _Lamar River Canon_ (7 miles above Junction b.u.t.te) is a gorge about half a mile long, the chief characteristic of which is the enormous number and size of boulders which have fallen into it. These are almost spherical in shape, and, in many instances, are as smooth as if from the hand of a stone glazier. They are piled up like billiard b.a.l.l.s, to such a depth that the stream flows entirely out of sight beneath them.[BS]
[BS] Above the head of this canon are the remains of what seems to have once been a bridge, but no record concerning it has come to the writer's notice.
_Soda b.u.t.te_ (15 miles above Junction b.u.t.te) and _Soda b.u.t.te Canon_, extending from Soda b.u.t.te to Cooke City, are worthy of much attention.
<script>