Part 13 (1/2)
”Bread?” fortissimo.
”Nema.”
Despairing we swallowed three more luncheon tablets each and whined for tea. Ramases, who seemed to get along on tea alone, promised us a well-stocked cafe in an hour and a half.
The second cafe was purely Albanian. We climbed up some rickety stairs into a room which had--strange to relate--a fireplace. About the room was a sleeping dais where three or four black and white ruffians were couched. There was a little window with a deep seat into which we squeezed and loudly demanded eggs, bread and cheese. An old woman all rags and tatters came in and squeezed up alongside, where she crouched, spinning a long wool thread and staring up into Jo's face. Several cats were lounging about the room, but one came close and began to squirm as though she were ”setting” a mouse. Suddenly she pounced, seized the old woman's food bag from her feet, swept it on to the floor, and disappeared with it beneath the dais, where all the rest of the cats followed. The old woman, who had been plying distaff and spindle the while, let out a yell of fury and half disappeared beneath the platform.
We all roared with laughter, while beneath us the cats spat and the old woman cursed, beating about with the handle of her distaff till she had rescued her dinner. She backed out with the bag, sat down again and started spinning once more as though nothing had happened.
Beyond this cafe the track became very stony and rough. We pa.s.sed a typical couple. The man was carrying a light bag full of bottles, while the women had on her back a huge wooden chest, in which things rattled and b.u.mped as she stumped along.
Jo looked at her with pity. ”That's heavy,” she said.
The woman stared stupidly and answered nothing; but the man smiled and said--
”Yes, heavy. Bogami.”
We pa.s.sed more caravans of that all too soon benzine. Cliffs began to tower up on every side, and precipices to fall away beneath our feet to a greenish roaring torrent; great springs spouted from the rocks and dashed down upon the stones below in shredded foam: one was pink in colour. Here once a general and his lady were riding, and the lady's horse slipped. The general grasped her but lost his own balance, and both fell into the river and were killed. The track wound up and down, often very slippery underfoot, and the horses, shod with the usual flat plates of iron, were slithering and sliding on the edge of the precipices. At last we got off and walked. It was an immense relief: our saddles were intensely hard, stirrups unequal lengths, and with knots which rubbed unmercifully on the s.h.i.+ns. We pa.s.sed a man who was evidently an Englishman, and he stared at us as we pa.s.sed, but neither stopped. The gorge grew deeper, the stream more rapid. The cliffs towered higher, black and grey in huge perpendicular stripes. We heard sounds of thunder or of blasting which reverberated in the canyon; it was oppressive and gloomy, and one shuddered to think what it would be like if an earthquake occurred. The cliffs ceased abruptly in a huge gra.s.s slope on which crowds of people were working on the new road; we crossed the river over a wooden bridge.
We came down into Ipek suddenly, past the old orange towered monastery, which lies, its outer walls half buried, keeping the landslides at bay.
Ramases, who had suddenly put on another air, flung his leg over the saddle--he had previously been sitting sideways--and twisted his moustache skywards. Jo wished to canter on, but he sternly forbade her, flipping her horse on the nose and driving it back when she tried to pa.s.s; for it would have d.a.m.ned his manly dignity for ever had a woman preceded him.
Our first view of Ipek was of a forest of minarets shooting up from the orchards, not a house was to be seen. Ramases tried to make us lodge in a vague looking building. We asked him if that were the best hotel. He answered nonchalantly, ”Nesnam” (don't know); so we hunted for ourselves, discovering in the main square a blue house labelled ”Hotel Skodar” in large letters.
[Ill.u.s.tration]
CHAPTER XI
IPEK, DECHANI AND A HAREM
We entered the courtyard of the inn. Tiny as it was all Ipek seemed to be plucking poultry in it. An urbane old woman came forward, evidently the owner. She had short arms, and her hair grey at the roots was stained with henna, which matched her eyes. A dog fancier once told us never to buy a dog with light-coloured eyes if we wanted a trustful loving nature, so we wondered if it applied to humans.
She showed us a tiny dungeon-like room entirely filled up by two beds.
We were not impressed; but she a.s.sured us that we should have a large beautiful room the next day for the same price. So we engaged it and strolled out into the evening.
Buffaloes were sitting in couples round the big square. They chewed the cud with an air of incomparable wisdom so remote from the look of reproachful misery that is generally worn by an ox. Goats came in from the hills with their hair clipped in layers, which gave them the appearance of ladies in five-decker skirts; and children were playing a queer game. They jumped loosely round in circles with bent knees, making a whooping-cough noise followed by a splutter. We saw it often afterwards, and decided that it must be the equivalent to our ”Ring o'
Roses.”
Work was over for the day, the sun set behind the hills which ringed us round, and we went to kill time in a cafe.
While we were exchanging coffees with an ”American,” who was showing us the excellences of his wooden leg which he had made himself, a breathless man ran in.
He had been searching the town for us. The governor had ordered him to put us up, as his had the notoriety of being a clean house. Having taken a room already with the amiable old lady we feared to disappoint her, so we decided not to move. The man piteously hoped that we were not offended; and we explained at length.
When we reached the hotel again our old hostess bustled up, more sugary than ever.
”We have just thought of a little rearrangement,” she said.