Part 4 (2/2)
_Thursday_ morning.--Hamilton is a rising new town with about 6000 inhabitants. It has many advantages, and must increase rapidly. There is the store of J. Buchanan and Co., where my friend Mr. Harris is a partner, as large as 5, Bow-churchyard, and they have about fifty branches. I found them all busy. I attended a cattle-show which pleased me much: some very fine cattle competed for the different prizes. There is a good walk above the town which, commands a fine view of the distant country. I walked to Dunedern, the mansion of Sir Allan M'Nab, who made such a formidable stand for the const.i.tution against the rebels L.J. Papineau, Lafontaine, and Baldwin.
_Friday._--Returned by the same steamer to Toronto, and finished up my business satisfactorily. Took a walk with Mr. Fisken to see the new college, which is at a stand-still for want of funds, and saw the Government observatory; and then visited the stone prison, which I did not like, as there is no work for the prisoners--all lying idly about--great contrast to Kingston. The town all in confusion nominating the candidates. In Toronto all the footpaths are planked with wood, which is very comfortable to walk upon.
_Sat.u.r.day._--Took a steamer at seven, A.M., for Niagara. Arrived at that town, of 1800 inhabitants, about twelve. A small place, of 3000 inhabitants, on the left, is Young's-town, on the American side, where their flag was flying in opposition to our union-jack. There is a fort at both places. Seven miles farther up the Niagara river, which we were now in, having left Ontario, we landed at Queenstown, a small place right opposite Lewistown, U.S. Here Brock's monument was erected and blown up. We then took rail seven miles, pa.s.sed Drummondsville battle-ground, and arrived at Clifton-house.
THE FALLS.
Oh my G.o.d! how I was stunned and unable to comprehend the vastness of the scene! It was not until I reached Table Rock, and looked upon the fall of bright green water, that it came upon me in its full might and majesty. Niagara was at once stamped upon my heart an image of beauty, to remain there changeless and indelible until it ceases to beat. It is overpowering to think that the outpourings of lakes Superior, Huron, Erie, Michigan, and St. Clare, covering a surface of 150,000 square miles, all roll down this 157 feet fall, with, it is said, sixteen times the power, deducting one-third for waste, of all the water-power used in Great Britain. I wandered to and fro, and saw the cataracts from all points of view. At the Great Horseshoe is decidedly the best view, near Table Rock: you can see the rapids approaching the verge as if gathering strength to take the giant leap. When the sun s.h.i.+nes the rainbow appears like molten gold upon the spray; and when the day is gloomy it crumbles away like snow, or like the front of a great chalk cliff. But always does the mighty stream appear to die as it comes down. The rise of spray is great at times. But enough.
_Sunday_ morning, very early, I went down a spiral staircase leading to the foot of the Horseshoe Fall, where I could have pa.s.sed 153 feet behind the falling sheet, but I soon got wet, and returned. Table Rock projects out many feet above this place, and will come down ere long, as it is much cracked. I then visited an Episcopal church at Drummondsville, where the desperate battle was fought--a beautiful village above the Falls--and heard a good sermon. Returned to Clifton-house, and ascended to the promenade on the top, which is very commanding. After dinner, with Mr. Parker, from the Caledonia Springs, on the Ottaway River--with whom, and his lovely daughter, I had travelled from Toronto--I started by the ferry-boat for the American side. This gave me another fine view, as we went close under them. On landing at the other side, we had to ascend a ladder about 200 feet high. We ordered a carriage at the Cataract Hotel, and drove to the whirlpool, four miles down the Rapids. This is an awful place, and indescribable. We then walked over Bath Island and Iris (or Goat) Island: here again is a splendid view. We saw Gull Island, where man has never been; and in the Rapids we saw the hull of the s.h.i.+p Detroit, fitted up in 1841 for the purpose of being sent over the Falls, but she went to pieces before she got over the Rapids. It got dark, and descending those long stairs, and crossing the Niagara River, was not to my mind. However, we landed safe. Tired, and to bed.
_Monday_ morning.--Visited Mr. Barnett's Museum. Bought some sticks peculiar to Niagara, and Indian curiosities; and looked into the large camera obscura, which reproduced every sight at the Falls. Ascertained from Mr. B. that the Canada Fall is half a mile in circ.u.mference, and the American a quarter of a mile. The depth of the water on the verge of the Horseshoe Fall is twenty feet. The Falls can be heard from five to twenty miles, according to wind and atmosphere: it is said they have been heard at Toronto, forty miles. The quant.i.ty of water supposed to go over the Falls in one hour is 102,093,750 tuns. I must now take my leave of the Falls with regret, as my friend Mr. Stephenson called, and drove me to see a Canadian farmer. I was much pleased with his farm and husbandry, and his domestic fireside. He makes 50 a year by his bees, and grows almost everything that the family eats. We then drove to the burning springs in the Niagara River, and over to Chippeway, where Mr.
S. has a saw-mill, of twenty-horse power, that will cut up 11,000 superficial feet of wood a day. Chippeway has 700 inhabitants. We left it per steamer, and saw the Rapids to great advantage before they dashed over the Falls. Here, to the right, is Navy Island, of 304 acres, which was occupied by Mackenzie, Van Ransselaer, and about 400 Patriots, in 1837-8, for five weeks. Their object was to collect recruits to revolutionize Canada. On the American sh.o.r.e, on the left, is Schlosser landing and wharf, where the _Caroline_ was moored when Capt. Drew, the commander of a squadron of five steamers, cut her out, towed her into the stream, set fire to her, and sent her over the Falls blazing. The patriots fled after this. M'Leod was tried by the Americans, and acquitted. Opposite Navy Island was the place where poor Usher lived that was shot by two Yankees, who suspected he knew of the _Caroline_ affair. About thirty miles up the Niagara River we got into Lake Erie, 300 miles long; and on the right (Canada side) is the Welland Ca.n.a.l, which connects Lake Erie and Lake Ontario, a splendid undertaking by Government, 32 miles long. Here you can see the mist that is caused, or spray rising from the chasm of the Falls, at this distance. On the left is the Erie Ca.n.a.l, which conveys all traffic to and from New York; and a little farther we arrive in the busy, bustling harbour of Buffalo, whence s.h.i.+ps and steamers sail for all parts of the far West and Southern states. We drove to the United States Hotel, and to bed.
Population of Buffalo, 25,000.
_Tuesday_, the 15th.--This is the queen of the lake cities, admirably situated at the outlet of Lake Erie, and the head of the Niagara River.
All produce and traffic of every description for the Western country must go here, to be res.h.i.+pped from the ca.n.a.l boats. The Erie Ca.n.a.l is eighty feet wide, and thirteen deep. The streets are broad, and intersect at right angles. The buildings are in general decent--some are splendid: the stores recently erected are four and five stories high; and, strange to say, not a single dry-goods importer in the town. We drove round the neighbourhood, and examined a poor-house of paupers and lunatics. I left at four, East for Rochester--population, 23,000: 75 miles; and Auburn, 78 farther--population, 7000. Visited the New York State Prison, the largest in the world: they make here, as at Kingston, every description of article: about 800 convicts at work daily. Lett, who blew up Brock's monument, is here: I saw him daily. I was really more pleased here than at any previous sight. The discipline, cleanliness, and behaviour were astonis.h.i.+ng. At twelve they marched to dinner in Indian files, with a simultaneous lock-step, eyes to their overseer, head erect. The m.u.f.fled bell strikes at four, and labour is suspended. I bought some very good cutlery manufactured by the convicts.
Auburn is two miles from Lake Cuyaga. Left here at two for Syracuse--26 miles: population, 8000. Thence to Utica--53 miles: population, 14,000.
Broke down on the road, and, detained three hours, was obliged to stop till four in the morning. Thence for Schenectady--78 miles: population, 5000; and to Albany--16 miles (326 miles). The most tedious journey I ever had in my life. I had a long talk on the way with a very intelligent farmer, who told me the best breed of sheep they get from England are called esquirol or merino; mugs do not answer; and that best parts of mutton were sold at 3 cents per lb. Cattle, the short-horned, they imported, and the meat sold at 2-1/2 cents; pork, 4 cents; cheese, 6-1/2 cents; and b.u.t.ter, 11 cents. They are far behind us in horses. In Long Island and Rhode Island they are improving the breed. Arrived at Albany at eleven, A.M. Found there were no lace-importers here--all buy in New York. Saw the State-house--a n.o.ble building, where the representatives and state senators deliberate. Also was shown over the Government buildings for the management of the state; and took my departure on board the _Knickerbocker_, a new steamer, most magnificently fitted up, 325 feet long, and painted in the most superb style. We had about 700 pa.s.sengers, and plenty of berths for all.
Arrived at the Globe Hotel at seven.
_Friday_ morning.--A regular wet day. Got a bad cold. Made several calls. Visited the American Inst.i.tution or Exposition in the evening, where all descriptions of domestic manufacture, implements, &c., are exposed for inspection and prizes: also cattle, horses, and a ploughing match: 30,000 people had attended during the week. Such expositions are very desirable. Spent the evening with Mr. and Mrs. Green, and retired to rest at eleven.
_Sat.u.r.day_, the 19th.--No mail, although fifteen days out. Took leave of all customers, finished my business, and satisfied myself that there are not more than six lace-importers in New York whom I would trust, most of whom we shall have arranged with Mr. S. Pickersgill for our future journey. Visited Barnham Museum, the owner of Tom Thumb; and found out he is an English-bred boy, and no American giant. Spent a quiet evening with Mr. and Mrs. Pearce. Retired to bed early: could not sleep for reflecting.
_Sunday_ morning.--No mail. Most anxious for my despatches. Dr. Keen called, and had a walk. Paid a visit to Dr. Dewey's handsome Unitarian chapel, and heard an excellent sermon. Spent an hour more with Dr. Keen, and dined with W.C. Pickersgill, Esq., our banker, a most intelligent, well-informed man. He is the partner of Fielding Brothers, Liverpool, and married Miss Riggs of Baltimore. Took tea and spent the evening with A.T. Stewart and his wife, my fellow-pa.s.sengers out, and first-rate people; and retired to my bedroom to read the Bible at nine.
_Monday._--A most unpleasant journey. Took the Philadelphia rail to Elizabethtown. Thence to Sommerville, and to Clover-hill per waggon, in search of Mr. D----'s brother. Arrived at three o'clock, and found he was from home: waited at a farmhouse till ten, when he arrived, and I soon found out that the American atmosphere had contaminated him. A regular thief!--would not pay his brothers (B---- and D----) a cent out of 300 he owes them. Although I was miserable both in body and mind, I benefited by what I saw at this humble place. I saw happiness without ostentation: a good husband and amiable wife. They strove to make me comfortable. I had mush and milk for supper, lapped myself up in a blanket, and laid down till five in the morning. Moses M. Bateman drove me back 16 miles, and I returned to New York (70 miles) after a fruitless journey.
_Tuesday._--Found my letters per _Acadia_: they gave me much domestic gratification. Two I had from my wife, and one from Bow Churchyard.
These were in answer to my first despatches. I dined and spent a quiet evening with Mr. and Mrs. Pearce and Mr. Flanden, and retired to bed early.
_Wednesday._--A great Clay and Frelinghuysen day. A grand procession of the Whigs of many thousands. Mr. Pearce and I visited the Creton Aqueduct for supplying New York with water. It is 1826 feet long, and 836 feet wide, and covers 35 acres. It comes down a tunnel of 35 miles, part of which distance is an aqueduct. We walked to the East River and Astoria, and returned to meet Mr. Blane, Mr. Brough, Mr. C. Vyse, and Mr. Palin, whom I had asked to dine with me at five. We had one of Mr.
Blankard's best dinners, and spent a pleasant evening: were joined by Dr. Keen and Mr. Green. Brough sang us three excellent songs. They left at ten; and I to bed.
_Thursday._--I finally finished my mission with Mr. Pearce most satisfactorily. Visited Mr. Bach, distiller, Brooklyn--my first time there. Dined with C. Vyse, at Dalmonico's. Met Mr. Blane, Palin, and Bund. A most sumptuous dinner: would cost at least 50 dollars. Left at nine, and spent my last evening at New York with Mr. and Mrs. Pearce.
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