Part 29 (2/2)

Jacques de Thou came to the Eaux Bonnes in 1582; and recounts that, in the week which he pa.s.sed there, he drank twenty-five gla.s.ses of water a day; but in this he was exceeded by a German companion, who took no less them _fifty_.

These springs were forgotten for more than a century after this; and Bareges was preferred to them. The great physician, Bordeu, of whom Bearn is justly proud, restored their reputation in a great measure: but it is rather within the last thirty years that they have reached the celebrity which they now enjoy.

It is generally said that the Vallee d'Ossau combines all the beauties and grandeurs of the Pyrenees; and that the traveller, who has only time to visit this part, has had a specimen of all that is most admirable in this beautiful chain of mountains. For myself, I endeavour to believe this, not having been able to see so much of the Pyrenees as I desired.

CHAPTER VIII.

PEASANTS OF OSSAU--CAPTIVITY OF FRANCIS THE FIRST--DEATH OF JOYEUSE--DEATH OF THE DUKE DE MAINE--DANCES.

A great deal has been said and written about the peasants of the Vallee d'Ossau; and most persons appear to have been guided rather by enthusiasm than truth, exaggerating and embellis.h.i.+ng facts as it suited their views or their humour. It is the custom to admire the young girls and children who pester travellers with shabby, faded little bouquets, which they throw into the carriage-windows, and to see something peculiar in the custom; but it does not strike me that there is the slightest difference in this, or any other usage, between the Pyrenees and all parts of France, through which I have pa.s.sed. On the road from Calais, as well as in the Vallee d'Ossau, ragged dirty groups, eager for sous, place themselves in your way, and endeavour to obtain money: on fete-days they may look better; but on ordinary occasions there is certainly but little to admire, either in their dress or manners.

A lively but sarcastic French writer has observed on the p.r.o.neness of tourists to exalt the peasants of Ossau into the Arcadian beings of Virgil and Theocritus, representing them as a.s.sembling together to sing the verses of Despourrins: that--”it is, perhaps, better to see romance than not to see at all; but those who have discovered these pastoral heroes and heroines, can a.s.suredly never have met with them on the Ger or the Pic du Midi: the only songs that one can hear in that neighbourhood are drawling, monotonous lines, without either rhyme or reason,--a sort of ballad like that of the wandering Jew. As for their occupations, they are commonly employed in knitting coa.r.s.e woollen stockings, or in preparing, in the dirtiest manner in the world, the poorest and most insipid cheese that ever was made. The youths and maidens are by no means Estelles and Nemourins. I am aware that this account will be considered profane, and the writer of these facts, a morose, disagreeable person; but the truth is, nevertheless, better than false enthusiasm, which causes misrepresentation; and, having always before our eyes so much that is glorious and sublime, it cannot be necessary to inflate the imagination for ever _a propos de rien_.

”Let those who would form an idea of the singing of the Ossalois observe them on a fete-day, in some of their villages, when the young people are returning home. They separate in two bands: some holding each other by the waist, some round the neck. The foremost party go about thirty steps in silence, while those behind sing a couplet in chorus; the first then stop, sing the second verse, and wait till those behind have joined them; and the latter sing the third verse as they arrive at home. This chant is called, in the country, _Pa.s.se-carrere_. Every now and then the song is intermingled with sharp, wild cries, called _arenilhets_, peculiar to the mountaineers; which prove the strength of their lungs, if not their ear for melody. All this is performed slowly and heavily, without any appearance of joyousness or gaiety, and seems singularly ill-adapted to a fete.”

It must be allowed that, whenever a good voice occurs in this part of the country, it is an exception to the general rule; but this happened not long since, in the case of a young and very handsome girl of Ossau, whose melodious voice and fine execution attracted the notice of an amateur, by whom she was introduced to the theatre at Berlin, and obtained great applause and success. She may be considered as a nightingale who had lost her way amongst a wood of screech-owls; for her talent was quite alone. She used to sing an old historical romance of the valley, composed on the captivity of Francis I., which has seldom since found a voice capable of giving it effect.

There is something in this old ballad very like those of Spain, both in character and rhythm; and there exist several others, on historical subjects, which have the same kind of simple merit:

THE CAPTIVITY OF FRANCIS I.

”Quan lou Rey parti de France,” &c.

When the king, from France departing, Other lands to conquer sought, 'Twas at Pavia he was taken, By the wily Spaniard caught.

”Yield thee, yield thee straight, King Francis, Death or prison is your lot;”

”Wherefore call you me King Francis?

Such a monarch know I not.”

Then the Spaniards raised his mantle, And they saw the fleur-de-lys;-- They have chained him, and, full joyous, Bore him to captivity.

In a tower, where sun nor moon-light Came but by a window small; There he lies, and as he gazes, Sees a courier pa.s.s the wall.

”Courier! who art letters bringing, Tell me what in France is said?”

”Ah! my news is sad and heavy-- For the king is ta'en, or dead.”

”Back with speed, oh, courier, hasten-- Haste to Paris back with speed, To my wife and little children; Bid them help me at my need.

”Bid them coin new gold and silver, All that Paris has to bring, And send here a heap of treasure, To redeem the captive king.”[32]

[Footnote 32: The popularity of this ballad is accounted for by the circ.u.mstance of the Prince of Bearn, Henry II. d'Albert, having been made prisoner with Francis; he was, however, more fortunate than the king, for he made his escape. The original runs thus:--

THE CAPTIVITY OF FRANCIS I.

Quan lou Rey parti de France, Counqueri d'autes pays, A l'entrade de Pavi Lous Espagnols be l'an pris.

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