Part 10 (1/2)
And yet from the ruined castle of the Weibertreue Kerner pointed out to us a man walking along the road, and that man was the very incarnation of all that was sober, rational, and undream-like; for it was David Strauss, author of the ”Life of Jesus.” And at him too I gazed with the awe due to a great man whose name is known to all the cultured world; and to me much more than the name; for I had read, as before mentioned, his ”Life of Jesus” when I first went to Princeton.
Dr. Kerner took to me greatly, and said that I very much reminded him, in appearance and conversation, of what his most intimate friend, Ludwig Uhland, had been at my age; and as he repeated this several times, and spoke of it long after to friends, I think it must have been true, although I am compelled to admit that people who pride themselves on looking like this or that celebrity never resemble him in the least, mentally or spiritually, and are generally only mere caricatures at best.
On our return we climbed into an old Gothic church-tower, in which I found a fifteenth-century bell, bearing the words, _Vivas voco_, _mortuos plango_, _fulgura_ _frango_, and much more--
”The dead I knell, the living wake, And the power of lightning break!”
which caused me to reflect on the vast degree to which all the minor uses and observances of the Church--which are nine-tenths of all their religion to the mult.i.tude--were only old heathen superst.i.tious in new dresses. The bell was a spell against the demons of lightning in old Etrurian days; to this time the Tuscan peasant bears one in the darkening twilight-tide to drive away the witches flitting round: in him and them ”those evening bells” inspired a deeper sentiment than poetry.
In a village, Rucker, finding the beer very good, bought a cask of it, which was put on board the little Neckar steamboat on which we returned to Heidelberg. And thus provided, the next evening he gave a ”barty” up in the old castle, among the ruins by moonlight, where I ”a.s.sisted,” and the _lager_ was devoured, even to the last drop.
I soon grew tired of the family dinners with the Frau Inspectorinn and the Herr Inspector with the _one_ tumbler of Neckar wine, which I was expected not to exceed; so I removed my dining to the ”Court of Holland,”
a first-cla.s.s hotel, where O. and the other Americans met, and where the expectation was not that a man should by any means limit himself to one gla.s.s, but that, taking at least one to begin with, he should considerably exceed it. This hotel was kept by a man named Spitz, who looked his name to perfection.
”Er spitzt betrubt die Nase,”
as Scheffel wrote of him in his poem, _Numero Acht_, the scene of which is laid in the ”Court of Holland.” Here a word about Scheffel. During the following semester he was for months a daily table-companion of mine at the Bremer-Eck, where a small circle of students--_quorum pars fui_--met every evening to sup and _kneip_, or to drink beer and smoke and sing until eleven. Little did I dream in those days that he would become the great popular poet of his time, or that I should ever translate his _Gaudeamus_. I owe the ”Court of Holland” to this day for a dinner and a bottle of wine. It is the only debt I owe, to my knowledge, to anybody on earth.
It was resolved among the Americans that we should all make a foot-excursion with knapsacks down the Rhine to Cologne. It was done. So we went gaily from town to town, visiting everything, making excursions inland now and then. We had a bottle or two of the best Johannisberg in the very Schloss itself--_omne c.u.m praetio_--and meeting with such adventures as befell all wandering students in those old-fas.h.i.+oned, merry times. The Rhine was wild as yet, and not paved, swept, garnished and full of modern villas and adornment, as now. I had made, while in America, a ma.n.u.script book of the places and legends of and on the Rhine, with many drawings. This, and a small volume of Snow's and Planche's ”Legends of the Rhine,” I carried with me. I was already well informed as to every village and old ruin or tower on the banks.
So we arrived at Cologne, and saw all the sights. The cathedral was not then finished, and the town still boasted its two-and-seventy stinks, as counted by Coleridge. Then we returned by steamer to Mainz, and thence footed it home.
Little by little I rather fell away from my American friends, and began to take to German or English a.s.sociates, and especially to the company of two Englishmen. One was named Leonard Field, who is now a lawyer in Lincoln's Inn Fields; the other was Ewan P. Colquhoun, a younger brother of Sir Patrick Colquhoun, whom I knew well, and as friend, in after years, until his recent death. I always, however, maintained a great intimacy with George Ward, of Boston, who became long after a banker and Baring's agent in America. In one way and another these two twined into my life in after years, and led to my making many acquaintances or friends.
I walked a great deal all about Heidelberg to many very picturesque places, maintaining deep interest in all I saw by much loving reading of _Des Knaben Wunderhorn_ and Uhland's collection of old German songs--his own poems I knew long before--the _Nibelungen_ and _Hero-Book_, and a great variety of other works. I had dropped the Occulta, and for a year or two read nothing of the kind except casually the works of Eckhartshausen and Justinus Kerner. I can now see that, as I became healthy and strong, owing to the easy, pleasant existence which I led, it was best for me after all. ”Grappling with life” and earnestly studying a profession then might have extinguished me. My mental spring, though not broken, was badly bent, and it required a long time to straighten it.
Colquhoun was only eighteen, but far beyond his years in dissipation, and well-nigh advanced to cool cynicism. With him I made many an excursion all about the country. Wherever a _Kirclweih_ or peasants' ball was to be held, he always knew of it, and there we went. One morning early he came to my rooms. There was to be a really stunning duel fought early between a Senior and some very ill.u.s.trious _Schlager_, and he had two English friends named Burnett who would go with us. So we went, and meeting with Rucker at the _Pawkboden_, it was proposed that we should go on together to Baden-Baden. To which I objected that I had only twenty florins in my pocket, and had no time to return home for more. ”Never mind,” said Colquhoun; ”Rucker has plenty of money; we can borrow from him.”
We went to Baden and to the first hotel, and had a fine dinner, and saw the Burnetts off. Then, of course, to the gaming-table, where Colquhoun speedily lost all his money, and I so much that I had but ten florins left. ”Never mind; we'll pump on Rucker,” said Colquhoun.
We went up to visit the old castle. While there, Rucker took off his overcoat, in which he had his pocket-book, and laid it over a chair. When we returned to the hotel the pocket-book was gone! There we were, with a hotel-bill to pay and never a cent wherewith to pay it. I had, however, still ten florins. Colquhoun suddenly remembered that he had seen something in the town, price ten florins, which he _must_ buy. It was something which he had promised to buy for a relative in England. It was a very serious case of necessity.
I doubted my dear friend, but having sworn him by all his G.o.ds that he would _not_ gamble with the money, I gave it to him. So he, of course, went straight to the gaming-table, and, having luck, won enough to pay our debt and take us home.
I should mention that Rucker went up to the castle and found his pocket- book with all the money. ”For not only doth Fortune favour the bold,” as is written in my great unpublished romance of ”Flaxius the Immortal,”
”but, while her hand is in, also helps their friends with no unsparing measure, as is marvellously confirmed by Machiavelli.”
Vacation came. My friends scattered far and wide. I joined with three German friends and one Frenchman, and we strapped on our knapsacks for a foot-journey into Switzerland. First we went to Freiburg in Baden, and saw the old Cathedral, and so on, singing, and stopping to drink, and meeting with other students from other universities, and resting in forests, amid mountains, by roaring streams, and entering cottages and chatting with girls. _Hurra_! _frei ist der bursch_!
One afternoon we walked sixteen miles through a rain which was like a waterfall. I was so drenched that it was with difficulty I kept my pa.s.sport and letter of exchange from being ruined. When we came out of the storm there were _six_ of us! Another student had, unseen, joined our party in the rain, and I had never noticed it!
We came to a tavern at the foot of the Rigiberg. My pack was soaked. One friend lent me a s.h.i.+rt, another a pair of drawers, and we wrapped ourselves in sheets from the beds and called for brandy and water hot--a pleasing novelty to the Germans--and so went to bed. The next day we ascended the Rigi; found many students there; did not see the sun rise in the morning, but still a mighty panorama, wondrous fair, and so walked down again. And receiving my carpet-bag at Lucerne, whither I had had the precaution to send one, I dressed myself again in clean linen and went back to Germany. I meant to travel more in Switzerland, but it was very rainy that year, and, as it proved, I did wisely.
I returned to Spitz, but his house was full of English, and he informed me, rather exultantly and foolishly, that he had no room for me, and could not tell me where to go, ”every place was full.” As I had spent money freely with him I did not like it. The head-waiter followed me out and recommended the Black Eagle, kept by Herr Lehr. There I went, got a good room, and for months after dined daily at its _table-d'hote_. I sent friends there, and returned to the house with my wife twenty years later. My brother also went there long after, and endeared himself to all, helping Herr Lehr to plant his vines. In after years Herr Lehr had forgotten me, but not my brother. Lehr's son was a gentlemanly young fellow, well educated. He became a captain, and was the first officer killed in the Franco-German war.
Vacation pa.s.sed, and the students returned and lectures were resumed.
There was a grand _Commers_ or students' supper meeting at which I was present; and again the duelling-ground rang with the sound of blades, and all was merry as before. Herr Zimmer, the University dancing-master, gave lessons and cotillion or waltzing-parties thrice a week, and these I regularly attended. Those who came to them were the daughters of the humbler professors and respectable shopkeepers. During the previous session I had taken lessons from a little old Frenchman, who brought his fiddle and a pretty daughter twice a week to my room, where, with Ward, we formed a cla.s.s of three.
This gentleman was a perfect type--fit to be staged without a touch of change--of the old _emigre_, who has now vanished, even from among the French. His bows, his wit--_la grace extra'ordinaire_--the intonations of his voice, and his vivacity, were beyond the art of any actor now living. There were many more peculiar and marked types of character in the last generation than now exist, when Everybody is becoming Everybody else with such fearful rapidity.