Part 8 (2/2)

Baking Reduce the temperature to 475F. Immediately add a cup of ice water to the broiler pan, being careful of splattering and steam. Generously spritz or brush the loaves with water. Bake on the lower rack for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the loaves are just firm enough to hold their shape. Roll them out onto the parchment-lined baking sheet, and continue baking for 20 to 25 minutes, turning once or twice for all-over browning, until the loaves are well browned and their crusts very crisp. Test with a skewer inserted in the thickest part until it comes out with just slightly moist particles clinging to the bottom portion (or until the center registers 210 to 212F on an instant-read thermometer). Then bake for 5 minutes more to be sure the centers are done. Transfer to a wire rack; let cool thoroughly. Reduce the temperature to 475F. Immediately add a cup of ice water to the broiler pan, being careful of splattering and steam. Generously spritz or brush the loaves with water. Bake on the lower rack for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the loaves are just firm enough to hold their shape. Roll them out onto the parchment-lined baking sheet, and continue baking for 20 to 25 minutes, turning once or twice for all-over browning, until the loaves are well browned and their crusts very crisp. Test with a skewer inserted in the thickest part until it comes out with just slightly moist particles clinging to the bottom portion (or until the center registers 210 to 212F on an instant-read thermometer). Then bake for 5 minutes more to be sure the centers are done. Transfer to a wire rack; let cool thoroughly.

To Make a Baguette Tray Tear off two 20-inch-long sheets from a large (18-inch-wide) roll of heavy-duty foil. Lay one sheet on top of the other, s.h.i.+ny sides facing. (The dull side promotes browning better than the s.h.i.+ny side.) Working from an 18-inch side, fold the two layers in half, producing a long, st.u.r.dy 10-inch-wide strip. Still working from the 18-inch side, fold the strip in half, then pinch and press together along the fold line to produce a st.u.r.dy 2-inch-high center pleat. Next, working just below the pleat, open the two foil layers out away from the pleat on each side and bend them to create two parallel, connected U-shaped troughs. Lay the tray on a large rimmed baking sheet. Tear off two 20-inch-long sheets from a large (18-inch-wide) roll of heavy-duty foil. Lay one sheet on top of the other, s.h.i.+ny sides facing. (The dull side promotes browning better than the s.h.i.+ny side.) Working from an 18-inch side, fold the two layers in half, producing a long, st.u.r.dy 10-inch-wide strip. Still working from the 18-inch side, fold the strip in half, then pinch and press together along the fold line to produce a st.u.r.dy 2-inch-high center pleat. Next, working just below the pleat, open the two foil layers out away from the pleat on each side and bend them to create two parallel, connected U-shaped troughs. Lay the tray on a large rimmed baking sheet.

Serving and Storing Tear or cut the loaves into portions; the bread tastes good warm but the texture will be better when it cools. Cool completely before storing. To maintain the crisp crust, store draped with a clean tea towel or in a heavy paper bag. Or store wrapped in foil: The crust will soften, but can be crisped by heating the loaf, uncovered, in a 400F oven for a few minutes. The baguettes keep at room temperature for up to 3 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 1 month. Tear or cut the loaves into portions; the bread tastes good warm but the texture will be better when it cools. Cool completely before storing. To maintain the crisp crust, store draped with a clean tea towel or in a heavy paper bag. Or store wrapped in foil: The crust will soften, but can be crisped by heating the loaf, uncovered, in a 400F oven for a few minutes. The baguettes keep at room temperature for up to 3 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 1 month.

Fouga.s.se (or Black Olive Fouga.s.se) KS Quotient Fairly Easy: Fuss-free ingredients, added all at once. Hand-shaping required. Fairly Easy: Fuss-free ingredients, added all at once. Hand-shaping required.

Fouga.s.se, which means ”ladder,” was originally a hearth bread and is related to focaccia. A tradition in Provence, fouga.s.ses are often flavored with black olives, anchovy paste, pork cracklings, or Gruyere cheese. Slightly sweet versions are also readied for holidays. which means ”ladder,” was originally a hearth bread and is related to focaccia. A tradition in Provence, fouga.s.ses are often flavored with black olives, anchovy paste, pork cracklings, or Gruyere cheese. Slightly sweet versions are also readied for holidays.

Like focaccia, fouga.s.ses are fairly thin, flat, and crisp, but, as their name suggests, their appearance is entirely different: The most prominent feature is usually deep slashes, or ”ladders,” that cut through and open up decorative slits in the dough; the effect is somewhat like that of the cutwork patterns in some fine table and bed linens. Besides adding visual drama, the ladders yield especially crusty loaves by increasing the surface area directly exposed to the heat.

One of the most artful and popular fouga.s.se loaf shapes, which I love and call for here, is the ”tree of life” form: One elongated slot is slashed down the center of a gently rounded pine tree shape (think rounded triangle or teardrop) and four or so perpendicular side openings fan out from the center slit on each side to suggest its branches. Don't worry, it's easier than it sounds; even an inexpert rendering looks enticing.

Traditional Provencal bakers also create much more elaborate shapes of intertwined double or even triple trees, as well as a.s.sorted round and other (usually symmetrical) fantasy forms. Sometimes fouga.s.ses include several dozen ”ladders,” and are almost too pretty to eat.

To make fouga.s.ses, prepare the Pain Ordinaire (Everyday French Baguettes or Batards) Pain Ordinaire (Everyday French Baguettes or Batards) dough and complete the first rise as directed. Then use the following recipe to prepare a ”plain” or black olive version. The olives are a nice addition but hardly necessary: The ”plain” fouga.s.ses have a remarkable chewiness that complements the already enticing French bread flavor. dough and complete the first rise as directed. Then use the following recipe to prepare a ”plain” or black olive version. The olives are a nice addition but hardly necessary: The ”plain” fouga.s.ses have a remarkable chewiness that complements the already enticing French bread flavor.

Yield: four 9- to 10-inch-long fouga.s.ses cup well-drained, chopped (pitted) Nicoise olives, optional1 batch Pain Ordinaire (Everyday French Baguettes or Batards) Pain Ordinaire (Everyday French Baguettes or Batards) dough, ready for its second rise dough, ready for its second riseUnbleached all-purpose white flour or bread flour for dustingWhite or yellow cornmeal for dustingSecond Rise If adding olives, pat them dry on paper towels, then evenly fold into the dough. If it is sticky, working in the bowl, lift and turn it while dusting with and smoothing in more flour until stiffened and easy to handle. Spray four 10-inch-long sheets of baking parchment with nonstick spray. Generously dust them with flour. If adding olives, pat them dry on paper towels, then evenly fold into the dough. If it is sticky, working in the bowl, lift and turn it while dusting with and smoothing in more flour until stiffened and easy to handle. Spray four 10-inch-long sheets of baking parchment with nonstick spray. Generously dust them with flour.

Divide the dough in quarters (oiled kitchen shears work best), placing each portion on a sheet. Let rest for 10 minutes. Dusting the dough with flour as needed, pat and press one portion out into an 8- to 9-inch-long tree of life (rounded triangle) shape. Using well-oiled kitchen shears or a pizza wheel, cut a 5- to 6-inch-long center slash that goes completely through the dough and opens up a gash down its length, but stops about an inch short of the point and bottom edge. Cut three or four 1- to 1-inch-long slashes that fan out and form slots on each side of the center one; be sure that the slashes don't cut into one another or through the edge of the dough. With flour-dusted fingertips, stretch and pull the dough out from the top, bottom, and sides so the cuts open up as much as possible; otherwise they may close up as the dough rises. Tent the fouga.s.ses with nonstick spray-coated foil.

Let Rise Using Either of These Methods For a 30- to 60-minute regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 24 hours, then let stand, covered, until warmed up. For loaves that have a well-defined shape, large holes, and more chew, let rise for the minimum time; for loaves with a softer, plumper look and lighter crumb, let rise longer. For a 30- to 60-minute regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 24 hours, then let stand, covered, until warmed up. For loaves that have a well-defined shape, large holes, and more chew, let rise for the minimum time; for loaves with a softer, plumper look and lighter crumb, let rise longer.

Baking Preliminaries 20 minutes before baking time, put a rack in the lowest position in the oven; preheat to 500F. Place a broiler pan on the oven bottom. Place a very large rimmed baking sheet upside down on the lowest rack. Generously spritz or brush the loaves with water, then generously dust them with cornmeal. 20 minutes before baking time, put a rack in the lowest position in the oven; preheat to 500F. Place a broiler pan on the oven bottom. Place a very large rimmed baking sheet upside down on the lowest rack. Generously spritz or brush the loaves with water, then generously dust them with cornmeal.

Baking Reduce the temperature to 475F. Immediately add a cup of ice water to the broiler pan, being careful of splattering and steam. Remove the heated upside-down baking sheet and arrange two fouga.s.ses (with parchment) on it. Return the baking sheet to the lowest rack and bake for 12 to 16 minutes, or until the loaves are well browned and their crusts very crisp. Test with a skewer inserted in the thickest part until it comes out with just slightly moist particles clinging to the bottom portion (or until the center registers 205 to 207F on an instant-read thermometer). Then bake for about 3 minutes more, just to be sure the centers are done. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool. Repeat the baking with the remaining two fouga.s.ses. Reduce the temperature to 475F. Immediately add a cup of ice water to the broiler pan, being careful of splattering and steam. Remove the heated upside-down baking sheet and arrange two fouga.s.ses (with parchment) on it. Return the baking sheet to the lowest rack and bake for 12 to 16 minutes, or until the loaves are well browned and their crusts very crisp. Test with a skewer inserted in the thickest part until it comes out with just slightly moist particles clinging to the bottom portion (or until the center registers 205 to 207F on an instant-read thermometer). Then bake for about 3 minutes more, just to be sure the centers are done. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool. Repeat the baking with the remaining two fouga.s.ses.

Serving and Storing Tear or cut the fouga.s.ses into portions; eat warm or cool. Cool completely before storing. To maintain the crisp crust, store draped with a clean tea towel or in a heavy paper bag. Or store wrapped in foil: The crusts will soften, but can be crisped by heating the loaf, uncovered, in a 400F oven for 5 minutes. The fouga.s.ses keep at room temperature for up to 3 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 1 month. Tear or cut the fouga.s.ses into portions; eat warm or cool. Cool completely before storing. To maintain the crisp crust, store draped with a clean tea towel or in a heavy paper bag. Or store wrapped in foil: The crusts will soften, but can be crisped by heating the loaf, uncovered, in a 400F oven for 5 minutes. The fouga.s.ses keep at room temperature for up to 3 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 1 month.

Brioche KS Quotient Fairly Easy: Two-stage mixing. No hand-shaping. Fairly Easy: Two-stage mixing. No hand-shaping.

Brioche is one of the richest and most finely textured yeast doughs; individual slices almost look as soft and golden as pound cake, though they are almost never more than faintly sweet. Brioche is lovely eaten both as is and in fancy French toast, and is sometimes called for in very elegant bread puddings. (I personally can't bear to use brioche for this purpose; it seems too contrary to the traditional notion of bread puddings as economizers designed to salvage pieces of unwanted everyday bread.) The most elaborate brioche is brioche a tete, brioche a tete, or ”brioche with a head,” which is baked in a special fluted pan and has a perky topknot rising in the center. Because the or ”brioche with a head,” which is baked in a special fluted pan and has a perky topknot rising in the center. Because the Kneadlessly Simple Kneadlessly Simple dough tends to be soft, and since I recall my fellow pastry school students and I producing many lopsided and sunken topknots while learning to work with brioche dough, I have opted for an easier, but equally delicious, ”headless” version here. Bake it in a large loaf pan, or for a beautiful, foolproof decorative look, in a kugelhopf, Bundt, or similar fluted tube pan. (For a very sophisticated coffee cake, fold in chocolate shards and top the brioche with chocolate ganache glaze as directed in the variation at the end of the recipe.) dough tends to be soft, and since I recall my fellow pastry school students and I producing many lopsided and sunken topknots while learning to work with brioche dough, I have opted for an easier, but equally delicious, ”headless” version here. Bake it in a large loaf pan, or for a beautiful, foolproof decorative look, in a kugelhopf, Bundt, or similar fluted tube pan. (For a very sophisticated coffee cake, fold in chocolate shards and top the brioche with chocolate ganache glaze as directed in the variation at the end of the recipe.) This recipe calls for beating in a lot of b.u.t.ter and eggs before the second rise, so, while this can be done by hand, it's easiest to use a heavy-duty stand mixer fitted with a paddle.

Yield: 1 brioche, 14 to 16 slices2 cups (12.5 ounces) unbleached all-purpose white flour, plus cup (3.75 ounces), plus more as needed5 tablespoons granulated sugar, divided1 teaspoons table salt1 teaspoon instant, fast-rising, or bread machine yeast1 cups plus 2 tablespoons ice water, plus more if needed10 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, soft but not melted, cut into -inch pieces, plus more for brus.h.i.+ng dough top and brioche pan1/3 cup good-quality instant nonfat dry milk powder (don't use a generic brand)2 large eggs plus 1 egg yolk, at room temperature, plus 1 egg for egg wash (if using loaf pan)First Rise In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together 2 cups of the flour, 3 tablespoons sugar, the salt, and yeast. Vigorously stir in the ice water, sc.r.a.ping down the bowl and mixing until the dough is thoroughly blended. If the mixture is too dry to blend together, stir in just enough more ice water to facilitate mixing and yield a slightly firm dough. If the mixture is soft, stir in enough more flour to make it barely firm. Evenly brush the top lightly with b.u.t.ter. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours. In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together 2 cups of the flour, 3 tablespoons sugar, the salt, and yeast. Vigorously stir in the ice water, sc.r.a.ping down the bowl and mixing until the dough is thoroughly blended. If the mixture is too dry to blend together, stir in just enough more ice water to facilitate mixing and yield a slightly firm dough. If the mixture is soft, stir in enough more flour to make it barely firm. Evenly brush the top lightly with b.u.t.ter. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours.

Second Rise In a medium bowl, whisk together the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and the milk powder, then thoroughly whisk in the 2 eggs plus egg yolk until well blended. Gradually add the egg mixture, then cup of the flour into the dough and mix vigorously to incorporate; use a paddle and heavy-duty mixer on low if available. Add the b.u.t.ter a tablespoon or two at a time, mixing after each addition until smoothly incorporated. If dough still seems very moist and soft, mix in a few tablespoons more flour until slightly thicker than thick pancake batter. Turn out into a well-greased 8- to 10-cup Bundt or kugelhopf pan, or a 9 x 5-inch loaf pan. Cover with nonstick spray-coated plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour to firm up the b.u.t.ter. In a medium bowl, whisk together the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and the milk powder, then thoroughly whisk in the 2 eggs plus egg yolk until well blended. Gradually add the egg mixture, then cup of the flour into the dough and mix vigorously to incorporate; use a paddle and heavy-duty mixer on low if available. Add the b.u.t.ter a tablespoon or two at a time, mixing after each addition until smoothly incorporated. If dough still seems very moist and soft, mix in a few tablespoons more flour until slightly thicker than thick pancake batter. Turn out into a well-greased 8- to 10-cup Bundt or kugelhopf pan, or a 9 x 5-inch loaf pan. Cover with nonstick spray-coated plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour to firm up the b.u.t.ter.

Let Rise Using Either of These Methods For a 2- to 3-hour regular rise, let stand at cool room temperature; or for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 48 hours, then set out at room temperature. Let rise until the dough reaches the pan rim if using an 8-cup tube pan or loaf pan or to 1 inch below the rim if using a 10-cup pan. Remove the plastic wrap as the dough nears it. For a 2- to 3-hour regular rise, let stand at cool room temperature; or for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 48 hours, then set out at room temperature. Let rise until the dough reaches the pan rim if using an 8-cup tube pan or loaf pan or to 1 inch below the rim if using a 10-cup pan. Remove the plastic wrap as the dough nears it.

Baking Preliminaries 15 minutes before baking time, place a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 350F. 15 minutes before baking time, place a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 350F.

Baking If baking in the loaf pan, mix the remaining egg for the egg wash with 2 teaspoons water. Evenly brush over the dough top. Omit the glaze if the brioche will be baked in a fluted pan and served inverted. Bake on the lower rack for 35 to 45 minutes, covering the surface with foil partway through to prevent over-browning if necessary. Continue baking for 15 to 25 minutes more, until a skewer inserted in the thickest part comes out with just a few particles clinging to the bottom (or until the center registers 201 to 203F on an instant-read thermometer); the baking time will be longer in the loaf pan. When the brioche seems done, bake for 5 minutes longer to ensure the center is baked through. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Run a knife around the brioche to loosen it from the pan and transfer to the rack; let cool completely. If baking in the loaf pan, mix the remaining egg for the egg wash with 2 teaspoons water. Evenly brush over the dough top. Omit the glaze if the brioche will be baked in a fluted pan and served inverted. Bake on the lower rack for 35 to 45 minutes, covering the surface with foil partway through to prevent over-browning if necessary. Continue baking for 15 to 25 minutes more, until a skewer inserted in the thickest part comes out with just a few particles clinging to the bottom (or until the center registers 201 to 203F on an instant-read thermometer); the baking time will be longer in the loaf pan. When the brioche seems done, bake for 5 minutes longer to ensure the center is baked through. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Run a knife around the brioche to loosen it from the pan and transfer to the rack; let cool completely.

Tip The accelerated rise is not offered for this bread, as the extra warmth might cause the b.u.t.ter in the dough to soften too much. The accelerated rise is not offered for this bread, as the extra warmth might cause the b.u.t.ter in the dough to soften too much.

Serving and Storing The loaf tastes and slices best fresh and at room temperature. Cool completely before storing airtight in plastic or foil. The bread will keep at room temperature for up 3 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 2 months. The loaf tastes and slices best fresh and at room temperature. Cool completely before storing airtight in plastic or foil. The bread will keep at room temperature for up 3 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 2 months.

Variation Brioche with Chocolate Shards Shave or chop 8 to 10 ounces of fine-quality bittersweet or semisweet chocolate into shards. Thoroughly fold into the dough right after the b.u.t.ter and extra flour have been incorporated (before the second rise). Proceed as for the original. Top the finished brioche with Chocolate Ganache Glaze Chocolate Ganache Glaze while still warm, if desired. while still warm, if desired.

French Walnut Bread (Pain aux Noix) KS Quotient Super Easy: Short ingredient list; one-stage mixing. No hand-shaping. Super Easy: Short ingredient list; one-stage mixing. No hand-shaping.

This earthy, nutty-tasting bread is a French favorite, especially in the Dordogne region. It is wonderful topped with a creamy cheese or fine b.u.t.ter. Some pain aux noix recipes are hand-shaped and fairly elaborate; others are fairly simple, like this one. The only remotely fussy step is toasting the walnuts, which I don't skip because it really intensifies and mellows their flavor. I don't skimp on their quality either-they must be very fresh and nutty-sweet.

My 3 -quart French enameled cast iron Dutch oven works well for baking this bread, but any similar 3- to 4-quart heavy pot will do. (If you don't have a Dutch oven, see Choosing the Right Pot: Choosing the Right Pot: for other options.) for other options.) Yield: 1 large loaf, 12 to 14 portions or slices2 cups (10 ounces) whole wheat flour, plus extra as needed2 cups (10 ounces) unbleached all-purpose white flour or white bread flour1 teaspoon granulated sugar2 teaspoons table salt teaspoon instant, fast-rising, or bread machine yeast2 cups ice water, plus more if neededWalnut oil or flavorless vegetable oil for coating dough top and baking pot1 cups fresh, fine-quality walnut halvesFirst Rise In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together the whole wheat and white flour, sugar, salt, and yeast. Vigorously stir in the water, sc.r.a.ping down the bowl and mixing until the dough is well blended and smooth. If the mixture is too dry to incorporate all the flour, a bit at a time, stir in just enough more water to blend the ingredients; don't over-moisten, as the dough should be very stiff. Brush or spray the top with oil. Tightly cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours. In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together the whole wheat and white flour, sugar, salt, and yeast. Vigorously stir in the water, sc.r.a.ping down the bowl and mixing until the dough is well blended and smooth. If the mixture is too dry to incorporate all the flour, a bit at a time, stir in just enough more water to blend the ingredients; don't over-moisten, as the dough should be very stiff. Brush or spray the top with oil. Tightly cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours.

Meanwhile, reserve 4 perfect walnut halves for garnish. Spread the remainder on a baking sheet and lightly toast, stirring several times, in a preheated 325F oven for 10 to 15 minutes, or until fragrant and just lightly browned. Let cool. Chop finely (in a food processor, if desired).

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