Part 4 (1/2)
About a quarter of a mile westward is the old Mail Carrier's Cabin, the site of the ancient village of Ah-wah'-ma. Across the canyon the rugged ramparts of the south rim rise imposingly above and ~Meadow Brook~ pours over the edge to leap 1170 feet as ~Widow's Tears Fall~.
A small dam in the Merced diverts water for the intake of the two thousand-watt generators of the new government power house just below the road. South of the river is a grotesque promontory which is well named Pulpit Rock.
At the two small bridges about one and a half miles further down the canyon we pa.s.s the foot of ~Cascade Falls~ which, during the flood waters of early spring, is one of the most attractive scenic features of the El Portal Highway. From these bridges is also the best view of ~Elephant Rock~, down the canyon. Less than a quarter of a mile further, ~Wildcat Falls~ pour over the cliff at the right. A short distance beyond, stage drivers often point out the image of a white Persian cat on the wall above the road. The old ~Coulterville Road~ now branches to the right and steeply ascends the canyon wall. This was the first road into Yosemite and was completed in 1874. Just below Elephant Rock is ~Battles.h.i.+p Harbor~, a placid reach of the Merced in which fancied granite dreadnaughts ride anchor.
A little more than a mile further down the canyon ~Grouse Creek~ tumbles over the south wall in a series of cascades. We now pa.s.s beneath ~Arch Rock~, a natural tunnel formed by two huge granite talus blocks. The trail bridge across the Merced, a short distance westward, is the crossing of the ~Sunset Trail~, which pa.s.ses the mid-winter ranger station opposite and ascends past the foot of ~Avalanche Falls~ to the Wawona Road, 2500 feet above.
Two miles further down the canyon we pa.s.s out of the park and into the ~Stanislaus National Forest~ thru a region of gnarled oaks and silver-gray digger pines. During the early season ~Indian Creek~, across the canyon, forms the picturesque ~Chinquapin Falls~.
One mile below the park line is ~El Portal~, the terminus of the ~Yosemite Valley Railroad~. There is here a hotel and a small store.
On the opposite slope is the incline of the Yosemite Lumber Company down which flat cars loaded with logs are lowered. From El Portal a four-hour ride by railroad takes us to ~Merced~.
ROAD TRIP VI-A
YOSEMITE VILLAGE TO POHONO BRIDGE _via_ THE BRIDALVEIL ROAD
(5 miles--20 minutes by stage)
The ~Bridalveil Road~ parallels the south bank of the Merced from Yosemite to Pohono Bridge, five miles westward. This route is more attractive and more scenic than the northern, or El Capitan Road, which is often taken by the stages.
From Yosemite Village we bear westward across the meadows. The ~Sentinel~ towers above at the left and in the distance are the portals of the valley. About one mile takes us past a Park Ranger's cabin near the spot where Galen Clarke's house stood until 1919. Just northward, at the edge of a big meadow, was once the Indian village of Hoo'-koo-me'-ko-tah.
A little further and directly under the Sentinel stand the remaining buildings of old Camp Awahnee, occupying the site of the large and important Indian community of Loi'-ah. The name, which means ”a long water basket,” was also the Yosemites' appellation for the great rock tower above. The ~Short Trail to Glacier Point~ here turns to the left and begins its zigzag course up the canyon wall. The ~Ford Road~, a subsidiary route branching to the right, leads to ~The Big Pine~, which is the largest known specimen of western yellow pine in the park. During the flood waters of early spring, ~Sentinel Falls~ descend in a picturesque cascade at the western flank of the great obelisk.
Again continuing westward, we are treated to charming vistas across the Merced. Especially effective from this angle is the great triple pyramid of ~Three Brothers~ b.u.t.tressing the north wall. Just opposite them on the banks of the river was Kis'-se, the westernmost of the large Indian villages on the south or ”coyote” side of the valley. To the west a splendid profile of ~El Capitan~ is revealed and suddenly at the left of the road the ~Cathedral Spires~, each rising 500 feet from its base, seem to tower above the south rim. The Yosemites called the latter Po-see'-na Chuck'-ah, or ”mouse-proof rocks,” from a fancied resemblance to their acorn caches. A village just below them in a small meadow near the river was called We'-sum-meh.
We now skirt the powerfully outlined ~Cathedral Rocks~. At ~El Capitan Bridge~ one may cross to the north side of the river. Directly opposite is a ranger station at the foot of the ~Big Oak Flat Road~ (Road Trip IV). From that point the ~El Capitan Road~ (Road Trips I and VI) leads both up and down the valley.
Continuing along the shaded highway, we veer to the south, pa.s.sing close to the foot of ~Bridalveil Fall~, charming glimpses of which are here and there revealed between the trees. Just below a very large rock at the east margin of ~Bridalveil Creek~ is the site of the ancient village of Lem-me'-hitch'-ke. Perhaps the unspeakable awe with which the Yosemites were supposed to look upon Pohono, ”the spirit of the evil wind,” has been somewhat exaggerated in the past. A short subsidiary road turns to the left to the foot of the fall, a brief side trip which should be taken by all visitors.
A short drive now takes us to the junction with the ~Wawona Road~ (Road Trip III) which bears to the left at ~Bridalveil Checking Station~ and climbs thru the forests of the canyon-side. Turning to the right, we soon enter ~Bridalveil Meadow~. Near the river was once the Indian village of Sap-pah'-sam-mah. At the edge of the meadow, about 100 feet north of the road, a dense grove of oaks and pines shelters the graves of two pioneers, Rose and Shurban, who were ma.s.sacred here by the Indians in 1852. The view back across the meadows towards the ~Gates of the Valley~ is one of the best from this elevation. At the left is the great shoulder of ~El Capitan~, with the ~Ribbon Fall~ almost hidden in a deep recess at its west. At the right of the portal the beautiful ~Bridalveil~ leaps gracefully from its hanging valley between ~Cathedral Rocks~ and the ~Leaning Tower~.
Plunging again into the deep woods, we stop for a draught of ice-cold water at ~Fern Spring~, and a short distance beyond emerge at the beautiful border of the Merced. Crossing ~Pohono Bridge~ we join the ~El Portal Road~. El Portal is ten miles westward via Road Trip VI, and Yosemite five miles eastward via Road Trip I.
YOSEMITE TRAILS
For an ideal vacation-land, Yosemite could scarcely be surpa.s.sed. Of the 600 miles of trails in the park probably half are within two days walking distance of the valley. It is this portion of the park which is described in the following trail trips--the region which may be seen on walking tours from the valley as a base camp.
For the person whose days in Yosemite are limited, Glacier Point undoubtedly offers the most attractive one-day excursion. It is reached by a number of trails, chief of which are the beautiful Vernal and Nevada Falls Trail, the steep but thrilling climb up the narrow Ledge Trail, and the dusty, toilsome ascent of the Short Trail. Most thrilling of all Yosemite Trails is the ascent of Half Dome, made possible by the recent construction of a cable-guarded route up its north shoulder. Further northeastward is the commanding summit of Clouds Rest, a long one-day round trip, but well repaid by a magnificent panorama of the High Sierra. North of the Yosemite walls the most comprehensive views may be had from Eagle Peak. The top of North Dome is also a vantage point of the first order, but the round trip is a long one-day climb. The summit of El Capitan, although exceedingly lofty, is rather disappointing except for the view over its rim into the abyss below. Sierra Point is but one hour's climb above the valley and offers an especially good panorama.
Many ideal two-day walking trips from Yosemite are made possible by accommodations at the lodges in the High Sierra. Chief among these excursions are the trips to Lake Tenaya, Tuolumne Meadows and Merced Lake. Other charming trails are described in the following text.
TRAIL TRIP 1
YOSEMITE TO GLACIER POINT _via_ VERNAL AND NEVADA FALLS AND RETURN _via_ THE SHORT TRAIL
Reverse of Trail Trip 2
(16 miles--8 hours)
If one were so time-poor as to have but one day in Yosemite, he should by all means climb to Glacier Point via Vernal and Nevada Falls and return via the Short Trail. This most scenic trip is easily made afoot in one day and should be taken as follows rather than in the opposite direction because (_a_) one faces the falls in ascending, and (_b_) the gradual ascent is less tiring. Early in the season it is a good plan to carry a sack or newspaper for protection while pa.s.sing thru the mist of Vernal Falls.