Part 19 (2/2)

Yes, travelling in France under such circ.u.mstances is to me more interesting than ever, for when it is not one's fellow pa.s.sengers who hold the attention, there are always those thousand and one outside incidents which the eye retains involuntarily. War factories and munition plants sprung from the ground as though by magic; immense training camps in course of construction, aviation fields over which so cleverly hover those gigantic, graceful war birds, who on catching sight of the train fly low and delight the astonished pa.s.sengers by throwing them a greeting, or, challenging the engineer, enter into a race.

But above all, there is the natural panorama; that marvellous succession of hills and vales, hamlets and rivers, fields and gardens, so wonderfully harmonious beneath the pearl tinted sky. How it all charms and thrills, and how near the surface is one's emotion on hearing a soldier voice exclaim:

”What a country to die for!”

So the hours sped by, and at length we reached our destination. P---- is a flouris.h.i.+ng little city, perched on the side of a rocky hill, with a broad landscape spreading out at its feet.

The best hotel is called ”L'hotel des Hommes Ill.u.s.tres”--and its facade is adorned with the statues of the above mentioned gentlemen carved in stone. The proprietor, who built the edifice and paid the bill, having been sole judge in the choice of celebrities, the result is as astonis.h.i.+ng as it is eclectic, and though absolutely devoid of beauty, thoroughly imposing.

We arrived before our luggage, which was conveyed by so old and puffy a horse that we considered it criminal not to leave our cab and finish the hill on foot. At the top of a monumental staircase we entered the hotel office, behind whose desk were enthroned two persons of most serious aspect; the one, stout and florid of complexion with a long nose and an allure worthy of Louis XIV, proudly bore upon her head such an extraordinary quant.i.ty of blond hair arranged in so complicated a fas.h.i.+on that I trembled to think of the time required to dress it. The other, sallow faced, with a long curved chin, might have been taken for a Spanish Infanta, pickled in vinegar and allspice.

The formality of greetings accomplished, princess number one produced a book in which we were to sign our names. The dignity and importance she attached to this ceremony would certainly not have been misplaced in a Grand Chamberlain preparing the official register for the signature of Peace preliminaries.

This, together with the manner in which she took note of our names, drying them with a spoonful of gold sand, gave me the illusion that I had just performed some important rite.

”One or two rooms?” she queried.

”One big room, Madame.”

”With or without bath?” demanded the co-adjutor, whose voice possessed a contralto quality utterly out of keeping with her pale blond hair and complexion.

”With bath, please.”

A new register was opened. Both bent over it closely, each showing the other a different paragraph with her fore finger. Finally they murmured a few inaudible syllables and then shook their heads.

”Would you prefer number six or number fourteen?” finally asked the Infanta.

We looked at each other in astonishment, neither being superst.i.tious about numbers, but it would have been painful to announce to these ladies that the matter was totally indifferent to us. They had been so condescending as to allow us a choice.

”Number six has a balcony and two windows. Number fourteen has one window and a bathroom,” the princess informed us.

”But,” continued the Infanta, ”it is our duty to inform you that hot water has been forbidden by the munic.i.p.al authorities, and that cold water is limited to two pitchers per person, per room.”

I said I would take number six, which arrangement terminated the ladies' mental indecision, and seemed to please them greatly. They smiled benignly upon us.

The smaller one, whom I have called the coadjutor, because her throne was less elevated than the princess', put her finger on a b.u.t.ton and a violent ringing broke the silence of the vast hallway. No one answered.

Three times she repeated the rings, with an imperious movement.

”Be kind enough to go and call Monsieur Amede, Mademoiselle Laure.”

On her feet, Mademoiselle Laure was even smaller than when seated. She crossed the vestibule, opened a door, and her strong voice resounded along an empty corridor from which issued the odour of boiling cauliflower.

”Monsieur Amede!” she shouted anew, but not even an echo responded.

”Mademoiselle Laure, ask for the head waiter.”

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