Part 35 (2/2)

=The Various Periods of Mourning= for relatives have within the last few years been materially shortened, and the change generally accepted; but as some still prefer to adhere to the longest periods prescribed by custom, in the present chapter both periods are given, and it entirely depends upon individual feeling and circ.u.mstances which of the two periods is observed.

The time-honoured custom of wearing c.r.a.pe has greatly declined, and with the exception of widows, many do not wear it at all, while others wear it as a tr.i.m.m.i.n.g only.

A slighter change has also taken place in favour of half-mourning colours, which are now more worn than black and white during the half-mourning period.

=Court Mourning= when enjoined is imperative, the orders respecting which are minutely given from the Lord Chamberlain's office and published in the official _Gazette_; but these orders only apply to persons connected with the Court, or to persons attending Courts, Levees, State b.a.l.l.s, State Concerts, etc.

When the order for general mourning is given on the death of any member of the Royal Family, the order applies to all, although it is optional whether the general public comply with it or not.

=The Longest Period for a Widow's Mourning= is two years. The shorter period is eighteen months. Formerly c.r.a.pe was worn for one year and nine months; for the first twelve months the dress was entirely covered with c.r.a.pe. The newer fas.h.i.+on in widows' mourning is to wear c.r.a.pe as a tr.i.m.m.i.n.g only, and to discontinue its wear after six or eight months, while some few widows do not wear it at all during their mourning, it being optional wear.

=Half-Mourning= in the longer period commences after a year and nine months, and is worn for three months. In the shorter period half-mourning may commence after fifteen months, and be continued for three months.

The period for wearing the widow's cap and veil is a year and a day. The veil may be _crepe lisse_ or _chiffon_ in place of c.r.a.pe. It is now the fas.h.i.+on for young widows to wear the cap as a head-dress only, while others do not wear it at all.

Lawn cuffs and collars are worn during the first year, or for six months only, or not at all. After the first year white neckbands and white strings to the bonnet may be worn. Also hats in place of bonnets.

Further touches of white may follow during the next three months.

After a year gold ornaments may be worn; diamonds earlier.

=Widowers= should wear mourning for one year; they usually enter society after three months.

=For a Parent= the period of mourning is twelve months; ten months black, two months half-mourning, or eight months black and four months half-mourning. The black may be relieved with touches of white after three months. c.r.a.pe is optional; many prefer not to wear it at all, others as a tr.i.m.m.i.n.g.

Diamonds--earrings, brooches; etc.--before gold, at the end of three months.

=For a Son or Daughter= the period of mourning is identical with the foregoing.

=For very Young Children or Infants= the mourning is frequently shortened by half this period, or even to three months.

=For a Stepmother.=--The period of mourning depends upon whether the stepdaughters reside at home or not, or whether their father has been long married, or whether their father's second wife has filled the place of mother to them, in which case the period of mourning would be for twelve months, otherwise the period is six months--four months black relieved with touches of white after two months, followed by two months half-mourning.

=For a Brother or Sister= the longest period of mourning is six months, the shortest period four months.

During the longest period, viz. six months, black should be worn for five months, with a little white after two months, half-mourning for one month. After one month diamonds, pins, and brooches, etc.; gold after two months.

During the shortest period, viz. four months, black should be worn for two months, half-mourning two months.

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