Part 35 (1/2)

”Ah, I beg pardon. I must be mistaken.”

”Are you here for a long stay?”

”Only for a few days. I am wandering in a land of lost opportunities.”

”Of what?” asked Schmidt.

”Oh, of the cook. Think of it, these angelic reed-birds, the divine terrapin, the duck they call canvas, the archangelic wild turkey, unappreciated, crudely cooked; the Madeira--ah, _mon Dieu!_ I would talk of them, and, behold, the men talk politics! I have eaten of that dish at home, and it gave me the colic of disgust.”

”But the women?” said a young _emigre_.

”Ah, angels, angels. But can they make an omelet? The divine Miss Morris would sing to me when I would speak seriously of my search for truffles. Oh, she would sing the 'Yankee Dudda'[1] and I must hear the 'Lament of Major Andre.' Who was he?”

[1] He so writes it in his ”Physiologie du gout.”

De Courval explained.

”It is the truffle I lament. Ah, to marry the truffle to the wild turkey.”

The little group laughed. ”Old gourmand,” cried Du Vallon, ”you are still the same.”

”Gourmet,” corrected Savarin. ”Congratulate me. I have found here a cook--Marino, a master, French of course, from San Domingo. You will dine with me at four to-morrow; and you, Monsieur Schmidt, certainly you resemble--”

”Yes,” broke in the German. ”A likeness often remarked, not very flattering.”

”Ah, pardon me. But my dinner--Du Vallon, you will come, and the vicomte, and you and you, and there will be Messieurs Bingham and Rawle and Mr. Meredith, and one Jacobin,--Monsieur Girard,--as I hear a lover of good diet--ah, he gave me the crab which is soft, the citizen crab.

Monsieur Girard--I bless him. I have seen women, statesmen, kings, but the crab, ah! the crab 'which is soft.'”

All of them accepted, the _emigres_ gladly, being, alas! none too well fed.

”And now, adieu. I must go and meditate on my dinner.”

The next day at four they met at Marino's, the new restaurant in Front Street then becoming fas.h.i.+onable.

”I have taken the liberty,” said Bingham, ”to send half a dozen of Madeira, 1745, and two decanters of grape juice, what we call the white. The rest--well, of our best, all of it.”

They sat down expectant. ”The turkey I have not,” said Savarin; ”but the soup--ah, you will see,--soup _a la reine_. Will Citizen Girard decline?”

The dinner went on with talk and laughter. Savarin talking broken English, or more volubly French.

”You are to have the crabs which are soft, Monsieur Girard, _en papillotte_, more becoming crabs than women, and at the close reed-birds. Had there been these in France, and the crab which is soft, and the terrapin, there would have been no Revolution. And the Madeira--perfect, perfect, a revelation. Your health, Mr. Bingham.”

Bingham bowed over his gla.s.s, and regretted that canvasback ducks and terrapin were not yet in season. The _emigres_ used well this rare chance, and with talk of the wine and jest and story (anything but politics), the dinner went on gaily. Meanwhile Girard, beside De Courval, spoke of their sad experiences in the fever, and of what was going on in the murder-scourged West Indian Islands, and of the ruin of our commerce. Marino in his white cap and long ap.r.o.n stood behind the host, quietly appreciative of the praise given to his dinner.

Presently Savarin turned to him. ”Who,” he asked, ”dressed this salad.

It is a marvel, and quite new to me.”

”I asked Monsieur de Beauvois to do me the honor.”

”Indeed! Many thanks, De Beauvois,” said the host to a gentleman at the farther end of the table. ”Your salad is past praise. Your health. You must teach me this dressing.”