Part 19 (1/2)

2. Place the b.u.t.ter, muscovado sugar, and treacle in another large bowl and whisk vigorously until most of the sugar has dissolved. Continue whisking while slowly pouring in the eggs. Place the b.u.t.ter, muscovado sugar, and treacle in another large bowl and whisk vigorously until most of the sugar has dissolved. Continue whisking while slowly pouring in the eggs.

3. Combine the bread crumbs, flour, Pudding Spice, and salt in another large bowl. Add the suet and mix it throughout the bread crumb mixture while breaking apart any clumps. If using b.u.t.ter, rub it into the bread crumb mixture until it looks like coa.r.s.e cornmeal. Pour in the b.u.t.ter and egg mixture and the soaked fruit along with its liquid. Using your hands, mix until combined. Cover and refrigerate overnight for up to 3 days. Combine the bread crumbs, flour, Pudding Spice, and salt in another large bowl. Add the suet and mix it throughout the bread crumb mixture while breaking apart any clumps. If using b.u.t.ter, rub it into the bread crumb mixture until it looks like coa.r.s.e cornmeal. Pour in the b.u.t.ter and egg mixture and the soaked fruit along with its liquid. Using your hands, mix until combined. Cover and refrigerate overnight for up to 3 days.

4. Remove the mixture from the refrigerator. Firmly compress it into a ball with your hands. If the mixture is not sticking together, work in a little more ale or bandy. If liquid has collected in the bowl, add a little more flour and work everything back into the mixture. Remove the mixture from the refrigerator. Firmly compress it into a ball with your hands. If the mixture is not sticking together, work in a little more ale or bandy. If liquid has collected in the bowl, add a little more flour and work everything back into the mixture.

5. a.s.sEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING a.s.sEMBLE AND STEAM THE DUMPLING: Before a.s.sembling the pudding, review the Pudding Basin Setup. Before a.s.sembling the pudding, review the Pudding Basin Setup.

6. Soak the muslin and the string under running water. Wring them out and set aside. Soak the muslin and the string under running water. Wring them out and set aside.

7. Place the empty pudding basin in the pot. Pour water into the s.p.a.ce between the basin and the pot until it comes three-quarters of the way up the sides of the basin. Remove the basin and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. Place the empty pudding basin in the pot. Pour water into the s.p.a.ce between the basin and the pot until it comes three-quarters of the way up the sides of the basin. Remove the basin and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer.

8. Meanwhile, make sure the interior of the basin is dry before rubbing it with b.u.t.ter and coating it with sugar. Scoop the pudding mixture into the basin without packing it down and smooth out the surface using wet fingers. Cut out a round of parchment paper and place it on top of the pudding mixture. Cover the basin with the damp muslin and secure it tightly with the string. Tie the opposite corners of the muslin into handles over the top of the pudding. Meanwhile, make sure the interior of the basin is dry before rubbing it with b.u.t.ter and coating it with sugar. Scoop the pudding mixture into the basin without packing it down and smooth out the surface using wet fingers. Cut out a round of parchment paper and place it on top of the pudding mixture. Cover the basin with the damp muslin and secure it tightly with the string. Tie the opposite corners of the muslin into handles over the top of the pudding.

9. Using tongs or a wooden spoon, push a folded cloth, such as a standard white cotton napkin, into the simmering water and arrange it to lie flat on the bottom of the pot. Using the cloth handle, carefully lower the basin into the pot, cover, and simmer for at least 8 to 10 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. Using tongs or a wooden spoon, push a folded cloth, such as a standard white cotton napkin, into the simmering water and arrange it to lie flat on the bottom of the pot. Using the cloth handle, carefully lower the basin into the pot, cover, and simmer for at least 8 to 10 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed.

10. Remove the pot from the heat. Using a pot holder to grasp the cloth handle, carefully remove the basin from the pot, put it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the pudding to cool for 10 minutes. Remove the string, cloth, and paper. Unmold by inverting it onto a plate. Slice and serve hot with Vanilla Custard Sauce or Hard Sauce. If eating the pudding within 2 weeks, allow it to cool completely, and keep it tightly wrapped in the refrigerator. Reheat the pudding in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If you are aging the pudding, allow it to cool completely, and wrap it tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 3 months. Brush the pudding with ale or brandy twice a week, if you like, and rewrap tightly. To cook, steam it for 2 to 3 hours in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). Remove the pot from the heat. Using a pot holder to grasp the cloth handle, carefully remove the basin from the pot, put it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the pudding to cool for 10 minutes. Remove the string, cloth, and paper. Unmold by inverting it onto a plate. Slice and serve hot with Vanilla Custard Sauce or Hard Sauce. If eating the pudding within 2 weeks, allow it to cool completely, and keep it tightly wrapped in the refrigerator. Reheat the pudding in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If you are aging the pudding, allow it to cool completely, and wrap it tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 3 months. Brush the pudding with ale or brandy twice a week, if you like, and rewrap tightly. To cook, steam it for 2 to 3 hours in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips).

Chocolate Tamales Tamales de Chocolate (Mexico) (Mexico) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES 16 16 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

The combination of lime-treated corn and Mexican chocolate creates an unusually light yet satisfyingly rich chocolate dessert. Like Tamales Dulces Tamales Dulces (May), (May), Tamales de Chocolate Tamales de Chocolate can be enhanced with bits of fruit or nuts added to the filling. Pecans are an especially excellent addition, but be sure to toast them lightly beforehand. can be enhanced with bits of fruit or nuts added to the filling. Pecans are an especially excellent addition, but be sure to toast them lightly beforehand.

These dumplings are wrapped using the Single-Husk Tamale Fold.

For the Batter2/3 cup nonhydrogenated vegetable shortening, at room temperature cup nonhydrogenated vegetable shortening, at room temperature2 cups masa harina1/3 cup cocoa powder cup cocoa powder2/3 cup sugar cup sugar1 teaspoon baking powder1/8 teaspoon salt teaspoon salt cup warm waterFor the Filling6 ounces Mexican chocolate, such as Ibarra, chopped fine (about 1 cup)For a.s.sembly20 to 25 prepared dried corn husks (see Glossary of Equipment)Sixteen 12-inch lengths of kitchen string for tying the tamales8- to 10-quart steamer potEquipmentElectric hand mixer 1. MAKE THE BATTER MAKE THE BATTER: Whip the shortening in a medium bowl with the hand mixer at medium speed until light and glossy, about 5 minutes. Whip the shortening in a medium bowl with the hand mixer at medium speed until light and glossy, about 5 minutes.

2. Combine the masa harina, cocoa powder, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a large mixing bowl. Combine the masa harina, cocoa powder, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a large mixing bowl.

3. Pour the warm water into the masa harina mixture and mix with the hand mixer at low speed. Raise the speed to high and mix in the shortening one spoonful at a time. Continue to mix at high speed until the batter is very light and fluffy, about 10 minutes. Cover and set aside for 30 minutes. (You can also make the batter 1 day in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container.) Pour the warm water into the masa harina mixture and mix with the hand mixer at low speed. Raise the speed to high and mix in the shortening one spoonful at a time. Continue to mix at high speed until the batter is very light and fluffy, about 10 minutes. Cover and set aside for 30 minutes. (You can also make the batter 1 day in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed container.) 4. a.s.sEMBLE THE TAMALES a.s.sEMBLE THE TAMALES: Before a.s.sembling the tamales, review the Single-Husk Tamale Fold. Before a.s.sembling the tamales, review the Single-Husk Tamale Fold.

5. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the batter, chocolate, the husks, and the ties. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the batter, chocolate, the husks, and the ties.

6. Loosen up the batter by whisking it for 2 to 3 minutes. The consistency should be something similar to a grainy and dense mousse. If the batter is too stiff to whisk easily, mix in some cold water, a little at a time, until it is softer and fluffier. Loosen up the batter by whisking it for 2 to 3 minutes. The consistency should be something similar to a grainy and dense mousse. If the batter is too stiff to whisk easily, mix in some cold water, a little at a time, until it is softer and fluffier.

7. Pick out the best 16 husks. lay flat 1 husk, smooth side up. center 2 rounded tablespoons of the batter on top of the husk and spread it out to the right until it forms a rectangle about 4 2 inches. Place 1 tablespoon of the Mexican chocolate on top of the left half of the rectangle only. Fold the right side of the husk over, sandwiching the filling between the two layers of the batter. Then fold the left side of the husk over the top. Fold the ends of the husk over as firmly as you can to create a neat rectangular package. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the husk from unfolding and place on the lined tray. Repeat until you have 16 tamales. Pick out the best 16 husks. lay flat 1 husk, smooth side up. center 2 rounded tablespoons of the batter on top of the husk and spread it out to the right until it forms a rectangle about 4 2 inches. Place 1 tablespoon of the Mexican chocolate on top of the left half of the rectangle only. Fold the right side of the husk over, sandwiching the filling between the two layers of the batter. Then fold the left side of the husk over the top. Fold the ends of the husk over as firmly as you can to create a neat rectangular package. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the husk from unfolding and place on the lined tray. Repeat until you have 16 tamales.

8. Set aside the number of tamales that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Set aside the number of tamales that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips).

9. STEAM THE TAMALES STEAM THE TAMALES: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, arrange the tamales upright, leaning or loosely wedged against each other in the basket. Ball up and stick in any extra husks or parchment paper to keep the tamales propped up if needed. Blanket the tamales with the remaining husks. Place the basket in the pot, reduce the heat to medium, cover, and steam for 1 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. (If steaming frozen tamales, place them directly in the basket and cook them in the steamer pot for 2 hours. Do not allow the tamales to thaw before cooking.) Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, arrange the tamales upright, leaning or loosely wedged against each other in the basket. Ball up and stick in any extra husks or parchment paper to keep the tamales propped up if needed. Blanket the tamales with the remaining husks. Place the basket in the pot, reduce the heat to medium, cover, and steam for 1 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. (If steaming frozen tamales, place them directly in the basket and cook them in the steamer pot for 2 hours. Do not allow the tamales to thaw before cooking.) 10. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Let the tamales cool slightly, cut off the strings, and serve. It's best not to open the tamales too soon and to peel back the husks just before eating so that they stay moist and warm. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Let the tamales cool slightly, cut off the strings, and serve. It's best not to open the tamales too soon and to peel back the husks just before eating so that they stay moist and warm.

Siberian Meat Dumplings Pelmeni (Russia) (Russia) SERVES 6 6 TO TO 8 8.

Pelmeni are traditionally made in large batches and left outside to freeze during the frigid Russian winters. Storing these meat dumplings outdoors, on the porch or in the yard, made them readily available whenever a quick meal, or an addition to a meal, was needed. The fact that these dumplings were frozen before being cooked added a characteristic firmness to the dough. In keeping with this tradition, this recipe calls for the dumplings to be frozen solid before cooking. They are usually served in a mushroom or beef broth or a b.u.t.tery mustard sauce (recipe below) and lots of freshly cracked black pepper. are traditionally made in large batches and left outside to freeze during the frigid Russian winters. Storing these meat dumplings outdoors, on the porch or in the yard, made them readily available whenever a quick meal, or an addition to a meal, was needed. The fact that these dumplings were frozen before being cooked added a characteristic firmness to the dough. In keeping with this tradition, this recipe calls for the dumplings to be frozen solid before cooking. They are usually served in a mushroom or beef broth or a b.u.t.tery mustard sauce (recipe below) and lots of freshly cracked black pepper.

For the Dough4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting1 teaspoon salt2 large eggs, beatenFor the Filling1 small yellow onion, chopped fine pound freshly ground beef pound freshly ground pork2 garlic cloves, chopped very fine1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepperFor the Sauce*6 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter3 tablespoons dark brown mustard3 tablespoons distilled white vinegar teaspoon saltFreshly ground black pepper to tasteEquipment2-inch round cookie cutterLarge, wide bowl to hold the dumplings cooked in batches 1. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Place 3 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the 1 teaspoon salt and mix well. Add the eggs and 1 cups water and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Place 3 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Add the 1 teaspoon salt and mix well. Add the eggs and 1 cups water and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers.

2. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 4 to 5 minutes. Return the dough ball to the bowl, cover with a kitchen towel, and let rest for 30 minutes. Place the dough on a floured surface and knead for 4 to 5 minutes. Return the dough ball to the bowl, cover with a kitchen towel, and let rest for 30 minutes.

3. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Pulse the onion in a food processor once or twice to break it down slightly. Place it in a small bowl, mix in the remaining filling ingredients, and set aside. Pulse the onion in a food processor once or twice to break it down slightly. Place it in a small bowl, mix in the remaining filling ingredients, and set aside.

4. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the filling. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the filling.

5. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 8 equal pieces, and set 7 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it's 1/16 inch thick, even thinner would be ideal. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Take your time and sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple of minutes before cutting out rounds. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 8 equal pieces, and set 7 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it's 1/16 inch thick, even thinner would be ideal. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Take your time and sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple of minutes before cutting out rounds.

6. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 28 to 30. Place the rounds in a single layer on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough pieces. Keep the rounds covered with a kitchen towel as you work. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 28 to 30. Place the rounds in a single layer on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough pieces. Keep the rounds covered with a kitchen towel as you work. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine.

7. Lay flat 4 to 8 dough rounds. Brush half of them with a very thin coating of water to make them sticky enough to seal. Place teaspoon of filling in the center of each dampened round. Top each spoonful of filling with an unbrushed round, creating little sandwiches. Pinch together the edges, pus.h.i.+ng out any air, and seal. If desired, trim the edges for a more tailored look. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling. Lay flat 4 to 8 dough rounds. Brush half of them with a very thin coating of water to make them sticky enough to seal. Place teaspoon of filling in the center of each dampened round. Top each spoonful of filling with an unbrushed round, creating little sandwiches. Pinch together the edges, pus.h.i.+ng out any air, and seal. If desired, trim the edges for a more tailored look. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling.

8. Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place in the freezer until they are completely frozen, 3 to 4 hours. Pick out the number of dumplings that you want to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place in the freezer until they are completely frozen, 3 to 4 hours. Pick out the number of dumplings that you want to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips).

9. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Fill a large pot halfway with salted water, place over high heat, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Fill a large pot halfway with salted water, place over high heat, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer.

10. Gently drop a few dozen of the frozen dumplings, a few at a time, into the simmering water. Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, 3 to 4 minutes, then cook for 4 minutes longer. Gently drop a few dozen of the frozen dumplings, a few at a time, into the simmering water. Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, 3 to 4 minutes, then cook for 4 minutes longer.

11. Remove the Remove the pelmeni pelmeni with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook any remaining with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook any remaining pelmeni pelmeni and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid. Keep them warm while you make the sauce. and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid. Keep them warm while you make the sauce.

12. MAKE THE SAUCE AND FINISH THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE SAUCE AND FINISH THE DUMPLINGS: Melt the b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Do not brown. Immediately pour the b.u.t.ter into a large serving bowl and whisk in the mustard, vinegar, and teaspoon salt. Drain the Melt the b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Do not brown. Immediately pour the b.u.t.ter into a large serving bowl and whisk in the mustard, vinegar, and teaspoon salt. Drain the pelmeni pelmeni and add them to the sauce. Toss gently to coat and serve with freshly ground black pepper. and add them to the sauce. Toss gently to coat and serve with freshly ground black pepper.

Chestnut Ravioli with Sage b.u.t.ter Sauce Ravioli di Castagne (Italy) (Italy) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES ABOUT 60 60 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

These dumplings are a tradition at Christmas in Italy, and they do a magnificent job of showing off the chestnut's delicate texture and nutty flavor. First the chestnuts are simmered and peeled, a task that is satisfying and sweet smelling. Then they are combined with prosciutto, apple, crushed amaretti cookies, and cinnamon. Dried or canned chestnuts can also be used in this recipe, but they are not nearly as wonderful as fresh chestnuts.

These dumplings are made using the Half-Moon Fold.

For the Filling10 large chestnuts cup finely chopped prosciutto (about 4 thin slices) cup whole-milk ricotta3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese1 amaretti cookie, finely crushed (optional)1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice plus teaspoon grated zest1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg teaspoon ground cinnamon Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg teaspoon salt1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon freshly ground black pepper small crisp, tart apple, such as Granny SmithFor the Dough1 recipe Ravioli di Pesce Ravioli di Pesce (Fish Ravioli with a Thinned Cream Sauce) dough, preferably made while the filling is being chilled, but no more than 1 hour in advance (Fish Ravioli with a Thinned Cream Sauce) dough, preferably made while the filling is being chilled, but no more than 1 hour in advanceUnbleached all-purpose flour for dustingFor the Sauce*4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into chunks8 to 10 fresh sage leavesSalt and freshly ground black pepperEquipment2-inch round cookie cutterLarge, wide bowl to hold the dumplings cooked in batches 1. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Fill a small pot halfway with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Cut a -inch slit into the sh.e.l.l of each chestnut and drop them into the water. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 1 hour. Drain the chestnuts, place them in a small bowl, and allow them to cool slightly. Fill a small pot halfway with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Cut a -inch slit into the sh.e.l.l of each chestnut and drop them into the water. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 1 hour. Drain the chestnuts, place them in a small bowl, and allow them to cool slightly.

2. Once the chestnuts are cool enough to handle, peel off their sh.e.l.ls and skins and pick out any discolored pieces. Crush the chestnuts in a medium mixing bowl with a potato masher until just slightly chunky. Mix in the proscuitto, ricotta, Parmesan, amaretti crumbs, lemon juice, lemon zest, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Once the chestnuts are cool enough to handle, peel off their sh.e.l.ls and skins and pick out any discolored pieces. Crush the chestnuts in a medium mixing bowl with a potato masher until just slightly chunky. Mix in the proscuitto, ricotta, Parmesan, amaretti crumbs, lemon juice, lemon zest, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt, and pepper.

3. Peel, core, and finely grate the apple. Add it to the chestnut mixture and gently toss with your fingers until everything is mixed evenly. Cover and refrigerate for 30 to 60 minutes before a.s.sembling the dumplings. Peel, core, and finely grate the apple. Add it to the chestnut mixture and gently toss with your fingers until everything is mixed evenly. Cover and refrigerate for 30 to 60 minutes before a.s.sembling the dumplings.

4. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the ravioli, review the Half-Moon Fold. Before a.s.sembling the ravioli, review the Half-Moon Fold.

5. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the filling. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Have ready the dough and the filling.

6. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it's 1/16 inch thick. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple of minutes before cutting out rounds. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it's 1/16 inch thick. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple of minutes before cutting out rounds.

7. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 12 to 15. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 12 to 15. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine.

8. Lay flat 1 to 5 dough rounds. Brush each round with a very thin coating of water to make it sticky enough to seal. Center a rounded teaspoon of filling on top of each round, fold each neatly in half, pus.h.i.+ng out any air, and pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling. Lay flat 1 to 5 dough rounds. Brush each round with a very thin coating of water to make it sticky enough to seal. Center a rounded teaspoon of filling on top of each round, fold each neatly in half, pus.h.i.+ng out any air, and pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling.

9. Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough, making the dumplings firm and toothsome when cooked instead of puffy and soft. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough, making the dumplings firm and toothsome when cooked instead of puffy and soft. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips).

10. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer.

11. Gently drop up to 20 dumplings, a few at a time, into the simmering water and stir gently to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, 2 to 3 minutes, then cook for 3 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen ravioli, add them directly to the simmering water and increase the cooking time by 1 minute. Do not allow the ravioli to thaw before cooking.) Gently drop up to 20 dumplings, a few at a time, into the simmering water and stir gently to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, 2 to 3 minutes, then cook for 3 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen ravioli, add them directly to the simmering water and increase the cooking time by 1 minute. Do not allow the ravioli to thaw before cooking.) 12. Using a slotted spoon, remove the dumplings, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid. Reserve 1 cup of the cooking liquid for the sauce. Using a slotted spoon, remove the dumplings, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid. Reserve 1 cup of the cooking liquid for the sauce.

13. MAKE THE SAUCE AND FINISH THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE SAUCE AND FINISH THE DUMPLINGS: Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over low heat without browning. Once the b.u.t.ter has melted completely, raise the heat to medium and stir in the sage. Cook until the b.u.t.ter and the sage just begin to brown, about 2 minutes. Carefully and quickly pour the reserved cup of pasta water. Continue simmering until the sauce has been reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over low heat without browning. Once the b.u.t.ter has melted completely, raise the heat to medium and stir in the sage. Cook until the b.u.t.ter and the sage just begin to brown, about 2 minutes. Carefully and quickly pour the reserved cup of pasta water. Continue simmering until the sauce has been reduced by half, about 5 minutes.

14. Drain the ravioli and turn them into the pan. Toss and stir for 1 minute to warm through, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve. Drain the ravioli and turn them into the pan. Toss and stir for 1 minute to warm through, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve.

Chicken-Filled Dumplings in an Escarole Soup Cappelletti in Brodo (Italy) (Italy) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES ABOUT 80 80 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).