Part 13 (1/2)

4. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a blunt log, then roll it out into a 9-inch square. This dough should not be thicker than 1/16 inch, ideally even thinner. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Take your time and sprinkle the dough with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough rest for a couple of minutes. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a blunt log, then roll it out into a 9-inch square. This dough should not be thicker than 1/16 inch, ideally even thinner. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Take your time and sprinkle the dough with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough rest for a couple of minutes.

5. Trim the edges, creating a cleaner square shape. Cut the dough into 3-inch strips, then cut across the strips every 3 inches to make 9 squares. Place the squares in a single layer on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough pieces, separating layers with kitchen towels. Keep the squares covered as you work. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine. Trim the edges, creating a cleaner square shape. Cut the dough into 3-inch strips, then cut across the strips every 3 inches to make 9 squares. Place the squares in a single layer on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough pieces, separating layers with kitchen towels. Keep the squares covered as you work. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine.

6. Lay flat 1 to 5 dough squares. Brush each with a very thin coating of water to make it sticky enough to seal. Center a rounded teaspoon of the filling on top of each square. Fold one side over the filling, then fold over the opposite side. Now take both ends, pull them together, overlapping them a bit, and pinch to seal. Dab a little water on the ends, if needed, for a better seal. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel. Continue with the remaining squares and filling. Lay flat 1 to 5 dough squares. Brush each with a very thin coating of water to make it sticky enough to seal. Center a rounded teaspoon of the filling on top of each square. Fold one side over the filling, then fold over the opposite side. Now take both ends, pull them together, overlapping them a bit, and pinch to seal. Dab a little water on the ends, if needed, for a better seal. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel. Continue with the remaining squares and filling.

7. Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes before cooking. Chilling the dumplings helps to set the dough, making them firm and toothsome when cooked instead of puffy and soft. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook, and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes before cooking. Chilling the dumplings helps to set the dough, making them firm and toothsome when cooked instead of puffy and soft. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook, and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips).

8. MAKE THE CHILE OIL MAKE THE CHILE OIL: Heat the oil, ground chile, Sichuan pepper, the clove of chopped garlic, the sesame oil, and teaspoon salt in a small saucepan over low heat. Cook for 5 minutes and remove from the heat. Pour the flavored oil into a small bowl, stir in the rice vinegar, and set aside. (You can also make the chile oil in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed gla.s.s container for up to 3 months.) Heat the oil, ground chile, Sichuan pepper, the clove of chopped garlic, the sesame oil, and teaspoon salt in a small saucepan over low heat. Cook for 5 minutes and remove from the heat. Pour the flavored oil into a small bowl, stir in the rice vinegar, and set aside. (You can also make the chile oil in advance and keep it refrigerated in a tightly sealed gla.s.s container for up to 3 months.) 9. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Fill a large pot three-quarters of the way with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Fill a large pot three-quarters of the way with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer.

10. Gently drop up to 20 dumplings, one by one, into the simmering water. Stir carefully and occasionally to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, then cook for 3 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen wontons, add them directly to the simmering water. Do not allow the dumplings to thaw before cooking.) Gently drop up to 20 dumplings, one by one, into the simmering water. Stir carefully and occasionally to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, then cook for 3 minutes longer. (If cooking frozen wontons, add them directly to the simmering water. Do not allow the dumplings to thaw before cooking.) 11. Using a slotted spoon, remove the dumplings and place them in the large bowl. Drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid. Using a slotted spoon, remove the dumplings and place them in the large bowl. Drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings and place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid.

12. Drain the wontons and place them in a large, shallow serving bowl. Drizzle with the chile oil, sprinkle with the scallion, and serve. Drain the wontons and place them in a large, shallow serving bowl. Drizzle with the chile oil, sprinkle with the scallion, and serve.

Corn Tamales Stuffed with Stringy Cheese and Poblano Tamales de Elote (Mexico) (Mexico) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES 8 8 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Big handfuls of juicy corn kernels mixed into the batter give tamales de elote tamales de elote a fresh corn texture and a delicate juiciness. Strips of Oaxacan cheese and poblano pepper in the center of these tamales add creaminess and a refres.h.i.+ng fruity flavor. If you prefer to leave out the peppers, the cheese alone is a delightful filling. a fresh corn texture and a delicate juiciness. Strips of Oaxacan cheese and poblano pepper in the center of these tamales add creaminess and a refres.h.i.+ng fruity flavor. If you prefer to leave out the peppers, the cheese alone is a delightful filling.

These dumplings are wrapped using the Two-Husk Tamale Fold 1 (Wide).

For the Batter2 large ears of corn or 1 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels1 recipe Tamale Batter from Fresh Masa or Tamale Batter from Masa Harina made with chicken broth teaspoon saltFor the Filling pound fresh Oaxacan cheese or soft mozzarella cheese, sliced into twenty-four 3-inch-long strips2 poblano chiles, cored, seeded, and sliced into twenty-four 3-inch-long stripsFor a.s.sembly20 to 25 prepared dried corn husks (see Glossary of Equipment)Eight 26-inch lengths of kitchen string for tying the tamalesEquipment8- to 10-quart steamer pot 1. a.s.sEMBLE THE TAMALES a.s.sEMBLE THE TAMALES: Before a.s.sembling the tamales, review the Two-Husk Tamale Fold 1 (Wide). This fold makes it possible to create wrappers for generous portions of batter by overlapping the corn husks. Before a.s.sembling the tamales, review the Two-Husk Tamale Fold 1 (Wide). This fold makes it possible to create wrappers for generous portions of batter by overlapping the corn husks.

2. Cut the kernels off the cobs over a large clean board or tray to make the kernels easier to collect. You will need 1 cups of kernels. Cut the kernels off the cobs over a large clean board or tray to make the kernels easier to collect. You will need 1 cups of kernels.

3. Loosen up the batter by whisking it for 2 to 3 minutes. The consistency should be something similar to a grainy and dense mousse. If the batter is too stiff to whisk easily, mix in some cold water, a little at a time, until it is softer and fluffier. Fold the kernels and salt into the batter. Loosen up the batter by whisking it for 2 to 3 minutes. The consistency should be something similar to a grainy and dense mousse. If the batter is too stiff to whisk easily, mix in some cold water, a little at a time, until it is softer and fluffier. Fold the kernels and salt into the batter.

4. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the batter, strips of cheese and pepper, the husks, and the ties. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the batter, strips of cheese and pepper, the husks, and the ties.

5. Pick out the best 16 husks. Arrange 2 husks, smooth side up, next to each other lengthwise with the widest ends on opposite sides. Overlap the husks by about 1 inches. Center 2 heaping tablespoons of the batter on top of the overlapping husks. Arrange 3 strips of cheese and 3 strips of pepper on top of the batter, then spoon another 2 heaping tablespoons of batter on top. Fold over one side. Fold over the opposite side. Fold the ends of the overlapping husks over as tightly as you can to create a neat package. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the husks from unfolding and place it on the lined tray. Repeat until you have 8 tamales. Pick out the best 16 husks. Arrange 2 husks, smooth side up, next to each other lengthwise with the widest ends on opposite sides. Overlap the husks by about 1 inches. Center 2 heaping tablespoons of the batter on top of the overlapping husks. Arrange 3 strips of cheese and 3 strips of pepper on top of the batter, then spoon another 2 heaping tablespoons of batter on top. Fold over one side. Fold over the opposite side. Fold the ends of the overlapping husks over as tightly as you can to create a neat package. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the husks from unfolding and place it on the lined tray. Repeat until you have 8 tamales.

6. Set aside the number of tamales that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Set aside the number of tamales that you would like to cook and keep the rest frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips).

7. STEAM THE TAMALES STEAM THE TAMALES: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, arrange the packages upright, leaning or loosely wedged against each other in the basket. Ball up and stick in any extra husks or parchment paper to keep the tamales propped up if needed. Blanket them with any remaining husks. Place the basket in the pot, reduce the heat to medium, cover, and steam for 2 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. (If steaming frozen tamales, place them directly in the basket and cook them in the steamer pot for 2 hours. Do not allow the tamales to thaw before cooking.) Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 2 inches of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, arrange the packages upright, leaning or loosely wedged against each other in the basket. Ball up and stick in any extra husks or parchment paper to keep the tamales propped up if needed. Blanket them with any remaining husks. Place the basket in the pot, reduce the heat to medium, cover, and steam for 2 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with boiling water as needed. (If steaming frozen tamales, place them directly in the basket and cook them in the steamer pot for 2 hours. Do not allow the tamales to thaw before cooking.) 8. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Let the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Let the tamales de elote tamales de elote cool slightly, cut off the strings, and serve. It's best not to open the tamales too soon and to peel back the husks just before eating so they stay moist and warm. cool slightly, cut off the strings, and serve. It's best not to open the tamales too soon and to peel back the husks just before eating so they stay moist and warm.

Leaf-Wrapped Black-Eyed Pea Dumplings Moyin-Moyin (Nigeria) (Nigeria) SERVES 6 6 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES 16 16 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

These steamed banana-leaf-wrapped dumplings call for you to peel off the papery skins of black-eyed peas. This may sound tiresome, but in fact it's quite easy to do. The result is a batch of savory dumplings that are creamy in texture and, because of the tomato paste, almost salmon-pink in color. These are popular dumplings, sold at markets or directly from stalls, varying according to the addition of shrimp powder or just about any fresh, salted, canned or dried meat or fish. Slices of hard-boiled egg and green peas are often appreciated additions.

These dumplings are wrapped using the Envelope Fold, but you can also use the Diamond in the Square Fold if your banana leaves are brittle or torn.

For the Dumplings1 cup dried black-eyed peas, soaked in plenty of water for 6 to 8 hours1 large yellow onion, chopped coa.r.s.e2 teaspoons tomato paste cup fresh or frozen green peas1 red or green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped fine1 teaspoon salt to teaspoon cayenne teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1 teaspoon shrimp powder (optional)4 large hard-boiled eggs, peeled and each sliced into 4 roundsFor a.s.semblyTwenty 8-inch prepared banana leaf squares (see Glossary of Equipment)Sixteen 24-inch lengths of kitchen string for tying the moyin-moyin moyin-moyinEquipment8- to 10-quart steamer pot 1. MAKE THE BATTER MAKE THE BATTER: Drain the black-eyed peas and place them in a large bowl. Cover them with water by at least 4 inches. Scoop up handfuls of the black-eyed peas and rub them back and forth gently between your palms. They will split apart as you rub them against each other, loosening their skins. Occasionally swirl the black-eyed peas around in the water so that the loosened skins can float to the top and be skimmed off. Keep rubbing until most of the black-eyed peas have been peeled. Then use your fingers to peel off any remaining skins. Drain the black-eyed peas and pick out any obvious bits of skin. Drain the black-eyed peas and place them in a large bowl. Cover them with water by at least 4 inches. Scoop up handfuls of the black-eyed peas and rub them back and forth gently between your palms. They will split apart as you rub them against each other, loosening their skins. Occasionally swirl the black-eyed peas around in the water so that the loosened skins can float to the top and be skimmed off. Keep rubbing until most of the black-eyed peas have been peeled. Then use your fingers to peel off any remaining skins. Drain the black-eyed peas and pick out any obvious bits of skin.

2. Pulse the onion and the tomato paste in a food processor until the onion is finely chopped. Add the peeled black-eyed peas and pulse until the mixture becomes a grainy batter, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Drizzle in up to cup water, a little at a time, until the batter is just loose enough to spread out evenly within the food processor. Pulse the onion and the tomato paste in a food processor until the onion is finely chopped. Add the peeled black-eyed peas and pulse until the mixture becomes a grainy batter, sc.r.a.ping down the sides as you go. Drizzle in up to cup water, a little at a time, until the batter is just loose enough to spread out evenly within the food processor.

3. Scoop the batter into a medium bowl and stir in the green peas, bell pepper, salt, cayenne, black pepper, and shrimp powder if desired. (You can also make the batter in advance and keep it tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 8 hours.) Scoop the batter into a medium bowl and stir in the green peas, bell pepper, salt, cayenne, black pepper, and shrimp powder if desired. (You can also make the batter in advance and keep it tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 8 hours.) 4. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the moyin-moyin, moyin-moyin, review the Envelope Fold. review the Envelope Fold.

5. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the batter, the sliced eggs, the banana-leaf squares, and the ties. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and have ready the batter, the sliced eggs, the banana-leaf squares, and the ties.

6. Lay flat 1 banana-leaf square, smooth side up. Center 2 rounded tablespoons of batter on top of the leaf. Gently press a slice of egg into the batter and top with another tablespoon of the batter. Fold over one side. Fold over the opposite side. Fold the ends of the leaf over as tightly as you can to create a neat package. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the leaf from unfolding and place it on the lined tray. Repeat until you have 16 packages. Lay flat 1 banana-leaf square, smooth side up. Center 2 rounded tablespoons of batter on top of the leaf. Gently press a slice of egg into the batter and top with another tablespoon of the batter. Fold over one side. Fold over the opposite side. Fold the ends of the leaf over as tightly as you can to create a neat package. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the leaf from unfolding and place it on the lined tray. Repeat until you have 16 packages.

7. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the basket from the steamer pot and add 2 inches of water to the pot. Bring the water to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, arrange the packages in layers within the basket. Blanket them with any remaining banana leaves. Place the basket in the pot, reduce the heat to medium, cover, and steam for 1 hour. Check the water level halfway through the cooking and replenish with boiling water as needed. Remove the basket from the steamer pot and add 2 inches of water to the pot. Bring the water to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, arrange the packages in layers within the basket. Blanket them with any remaining banana leaves. Place the basket in the pot, reduce the heat to medium, cover, and steam for 1 hour. Check the water level halfway through the cooking and replenish with boiling water as needed.

8. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Let the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Let the moyin-moyin moyin-moyin cool and set for about 5 minutes, cut off the strings (unless you are freezing the dumplings), and serve. It's best not to open the packages too soon and to peel back the leaves just before eating, so that they stay moist and warm, but they can also be served at room temperature. cool and set for about 5 minutes, cut off the strings (unless you are freezing the dumplings), and serve. It's best not to open the packages too soon and to peel back the leaves just before eating, so that they stay moist and warm, but they can also be served at room temperature. Moyin-moyin Moyin-moyin can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If reheating frozen can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 6 months (see Tips). Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If reheating frozen moyin-moyin moyin-moyin, allow them to thaw before steaming.

Leaf-Wrapped Rice Bundles Stuffed with Pork and Beans Banh Tet (Vietnam) (Vietnam) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES 8 8 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Along with Zhong Zi Zhong Zi (September), this recipe is one of the most challenging in the book. It will test your dexterity to overlap the bamboo leaves, fill them with spoonfuls of partially cooked rice and other ingredients, and then wrap them up as tightly as you can. The snug wrapping keeps these savory dumplings, designed for travel without refrigeration, practically sterile for days. (September), this recipe is one of the most challenging in the book. It will test your dexterity to overlap the bamboo leaves, fill them with spoonfuls of partially cooked rice and other ingredients, and then wrap them up as tightly as you can. The snug wrapping keeps these savory dumplings, designed for travel without refrigeration, practically sterile for days.

These dumplings are wrapped using the Bamboo-Leaf Fold.

For the Filling pound boneless pork shoulder, trimmed of skin and excess fat and cut into 8 equal pieces1 small yellow onion, cut in half and sliced thin1 teaspoons sugar1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1/8 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper teaspoon freshly ground white pepper2 tablespoons fish sauce, preferably from Vietnam cup dried peeled mung beans8 small dried s.h.i.+take or black mushrooms, soaked in hot water to cover for 30 minutes1 link Chinese pork sausage (la chang), cut diagonally into 8 thin slicesFor the Rice2/3 cup dried black-eyed peas, soaked in plenty of water for 6 to 8 hours, or 1 cup dried black-eyed peas, soaked in plenty of water for 6 to 8 hours, or 11/3 cups canned, drained and rinsed cups canned, drained and rinsed1 cup fresh coconut milk (see Glossary of Ingredients) or canned coconut milk2 cups medium-grain sweet (glutinous) white rice, preferably from Vietnam or Thailand, rinsed (see Glossary of Ingredients) and soaked in plenty of water for 6 to 8 hours1 teaspoon salt2 scallions, sliced into thin ringsFor a.s.sembly30 prepared bamboo leaves (see Glossary of Equipment)Eight 60-inch lengths of kitchen string for tying the banh tet banh tetFor Serving1 recipe Sweet, Sour, and Spicy Fish Sauce 1. MARINATE THE PORK 2 TO 6 HOURS IN ADVANCE MARINATE THE PORK 2 TO 6 HOURS IN ADVANCE: Combine the pork, onion, sugar, black pepper, white pepper, and fish sauce in a medium bowl. Cover and refrigerate for 2 to 6 hours. Combine the pork, onion, sugar, black pepper, white pepper, and fish sauce in a medium bowl. Cover and refrigerate for 2 to 6 hours.

2. MAKE THE MUNG BEAN FILLING MAKE THE MUNG BEAN FILLING: Place the mung beans in a small saucepan. Pour in 1 cup water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the beans are soft, about 30 minutes. Drain off excess water, if any, and return to the stove. Mash the mixture with a potato masher or the back of a wooden spoon into a moist, chunky paste. Remove from the heat, scoop into a bowl, and set aside to cool. Place the mung beans in a small saucepan. Pour in 1 cup water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the beans are soft, about 30 minutes. Drain off excess water, if any, and return to the stove. Mash the mixture with a potato masher or the back of a wooden spoon into a moist, chunky paste. Remove from the heat, scoop into a bowl, and set aside to cool.

3. COOK THE BLACK-EYED PEAS AND THE RICE COOK THE BLACK-EYED PEAS AND THE RICE: (Skip this step if using canned black-eyed peas.) Drain the black-eyed peas. Place them in a small pot, pour in enough water to cover them by 1 inch, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until they are just tender but not breaking apart, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain and set aside. (Skip this step if using canned black-eyed peas.) Drain the black-eyed peas. Place them in a small pot, pour in enough water to cover them by 1 inch, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until they are just tender but not breaking apart, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain and set aside.

4. Pour the coconut milk into a medium pot and place over medium-low heat. Drain the rice. Once the coconut milk is warm, stir in the rice, black-eyed peas, and salt. If using fresh coconut milk, be careful not to let it come to a boil. Stir and cook until all the coconut milk has been absorbed, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and mix in the scallions. Scoop this partially cooked rice mixture into a large bowl and set aside to cool. Pour the coconut milk into a medium pot and place over medium-low heat. Drain the rice. Once the coconut milk is warm, stir in the rice, black-eyed peas, and salt. If using fresh coconut milk, be careful not to let it come to a boil. Stir and cook until all the coconut milk has been absorbed, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and mix in the scallions. Scoop this partially cooked rice mixture into a large bowl and set aside to cool.

5. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the banh tet, banh tet, review the Bamboo-Leaf Fold. The Bamboo-Leaf Fold uses 2 leaves as a platform for the filling and a third leaf as a cover before all 3 leaves are wrapped and folded around the filling. review the Bamboo-Leaf Fold. The Bamboo-Leaf Fold uses 2 leaves as a platform for the filling and a third leaf as a cover before all 3 leaves are wrapped and folded around the filling.

6. Drain the mushrooms and squeeze out any excess water. Remove and discard the stems and slice the mushrooms into -inch strips. Drain the mushrooms and squeeze out any excess water. Remove and discard the stems and slice the mushrooms into -inch strips.

7. Line a tray with a kitchen towel. Have ready the partially cooked rice mixture, the marinated pork, the mung bean mash, mushroom strips, sausage slices, bamboo leaves, and ties. Line a tray with a kitchen towel. Have ready the partially cooked rice mixture, the marinated pork, the mung bean mash, mushroom strips, sausage slices, bamboo leaves, and ties.

8. Pick out the best 24 bamboo leaves. Place 2 leaves, smooth side up, lengthwise, and alongside each other, in the palm of your hand. Overlap the leaves by about 1 inches. Center 3 rounded tablespoons of the rice mixture on top of the overlapped bamboo leaves and spread out into a rectangle about 4 inches long and 2 inches across or about the size of your palm. Scoop up a rounded tablespoon of the mung bean mash and place it over the rice. Arrange 4 to 5 slices of the mushroom over the mung bean mash, then place 1 piece of sausage, 1 piece of pork, and some of the onions on top of the mushrooms. Top everything with 3 more rounded tablespoons of the rice mixture. Lay a third bamboo leaf, smooth side down, on top of the mound. Grip and curl the sides of the overlapped bottom leaves over the top leaf. Fold back the top ends of the leaves. Then fold back the bottom ends of the leaves as firmly as you can to create a neat, tight rectangular package. Wrap and tie the package 4 or 5 times across the width of the dumpling and at least once vertically to prevent the leaves from unfolding. Place the package on the lined tray and repeat until you have 8 packages. Pick out the best 24 bamboo leaves. Place 2 leaves, smooth side up, lengthwise, and alongside each other, in the palm of your hand. Overlap the leaves by about 1 inches. Center 3 rounded tablespoons of the rice mixture on top of the overlapped bamboo leaves and spread out into a rectangle about 4 inches long and 2 inches across or about the size of your palm. Scoop up a rounded tablespoon of the mung bean mash and place it over the rice. Arrange 4 to 5 slices of the mushroom over the mung bean mash, then place 1 piece of sausage, 1 piece of pork, and some of the onions on top of the mushrooms. Top everything with 3 more rounded tablespoons of the rice mixture. Lay a third bamboo leaf, smooth side down, on top of the mound. Grip and curl the sides of the overlapped bottom leaves over the top leaf. Fold back the top ends of the leaves. Then fold back the bottom ends of the leaves as firmly as you can to create a neat, tight rectangular package. Wrap and tie the package 4 or 5 times across the width of the dumpling and at least once vertically to prevent the leaves from unfolding. Place the package on the lined tray and repeat until you have 8 packages.

9. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Stack the packages as evenly as possible in a large pot and pour in enough water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium, cover, and simmer for 2 to 2 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with just enough boiling water to keep the packages covered. Stack the packages as evenly as possible in a large pot and pour in enough water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium, cover, and simmer for 2 to 2 hours. Check the water level every 30 minutes and replenish with just enough boiling water to keep the packages covered.

10. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the banh tet banh tet with tongs, place them on a folded kitchen towel, and allow them to cool slightly. Cut off the strings (unless you are freezing the dumplings) and serve with Sweet, Sour, and Spicy Fish Sauce. It's best not to open the packages too soon and to peel back the leaves just before eating, so that they stay moist and warm. with tongs, place them on a folded kitchen towel, and allow them to cool slightly. Cut off the strings (unless you are freezing the dumplings) and serve with Sweet, Sour, and Spicy Fish Sauce. It's best not to open the packages too soon and to peel back the leaves just before eating, so that they stay moist and warm. Banh tet Banh tet can be refrigerated for up to 1 week or frozen (unopened) for up to 6 months (see Tips). Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If reheating frozen can be refrigerated for up to 1 week or frozen (unopened) for up to 6 months (see Tips). Reheat them in a steamer pot or use the Steamer Plate Setup (Tips). If reheating frozen banh tet banh tet, allow them to thaw before steaming.

Coconut-Filled Rice Dumplings Modak (India) (India) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES ABOUT 20 20 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

The customary dumpling of the lengthy and joyous Ganpati Festival is the supersweet modak. modak. Its richness comes from a filling of coconut, sugar, and raisins. Although the sweetness of the filling may be over-the-top, these dumplings are doughy enough to balance out every bite. Its richness comes from a filling of coconut, sugar, and raisins. Although the sweetness of the filling may be over-the-top, these dumplings are doughy enough to balance out every bite. Modak Modak are often presented in a smooth, garlic-bulb shape that can be difficult to master. Luckily, there is a simpler pear shape that is equally acceptable and much easier to manage. are often presented in a smooth, garlic-bulb shape that can be difficult to master. Luckily, there is a simpler pear shape that is equally acceptable and much easier to manage.

These dumplings are made using the Bowl Fold.

For the Filling cup raw or roasted unsalted sh.e.l.led cashews or pistachios40 cardamom pods or 1 teaspoon ground cardamom1 tablespoon ghee (Glossary of Ingredients) or a neutral oil, such as grapeseed1 cup freshly grated coconut (see Glossary of Ingredients) or frozen grated coconut, thawed1/3 cup finely crushed jaggery (about 2 ounces) or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary of Ingredients) cup finely crushed jaggery (about 2 ounces) or other unrefined sugar (see Glossary of Ingredients) cup raisins or dried currantsPinch of salt1 teaspoon rose water mixed with cup waterFor the Dough1 tablespoon ghee (Glossary of Ingredients) or a neutral oil, such as grapeseed teaspoon salt1 cups white rice flour, preferably from India, plus some extra for dustingFor Cooking and ServingGhee or a neutral oil, such as grapeseed, to coat the steamer basket cup melted ghee for dippingEquipment8- to 10-quart steamer pot 1. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: If using raw cashews or pistachios, roast them in a 375F oven until they just begin to brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Move them immediately into a bowl and cool slightly, then coa.r.s.ely chop them. If using pistachios, remove their papery skins. If using cardamom pods, split them open in a bowl and collect all of the tiny seeds. You will have about 1 teaspoon. If using raw cashews or pistachios, roast them in a 375F oven until they just begin to brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Move them immediately into a bowl and cool slightly, then coa.r.s.ely chop them. If using pistachios, remove their papery skins. If using cardamom pods, split them open in a bowl and collect all of the tiny seeds. You will have about 1 teaspoon.

2. Heat the ghee in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the coconut and stir frequently until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Mix in the jaggery, then mix in the nuts, cardamom, raisins, and the pinch of salt and cook for 1 minute longer. Pour in the rose water mixture, stir continuously, and cook until most of the liquid has cooked off. The mixture will be sticky and clumpy. Scoop into a bowl and set aside to cool. (You can also make the filling in advance and keep it tightly wrapped in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.) Heat the ghee in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the coconut and stir frequently until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Mix in the jaggery, then mix in the nuts, cardamom, raisins, and the pinch of salt and cook for 1 minute longer. Pour in the rose water mixture, stir continuously, and cook until most of the liquid has cooked off. The mixture will be sticky and clumpy. Scoop into a bowl and set aside to cool. (You can also make the filling in advance and keep it tightly wrapped in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.) 3. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Place the ghee and the teaspoon salt in a small saucepan, pour in 1 cups water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Set aside cup of the rice flour and add the remaining 1 cups, all at once, to the boiling water. Stir 2 or 3 times to combine, then immediately remove from the heat. Stir vigorously until all the liquid has been absorbed and the dough is a moist, sticky ball. Scoop the dough into a bowl and allow it to cool slightly. Place the ghee and the teaspoon salt in a small saucepan, pour in 1 cups water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Set aside cup of the rice flour and add the remaining 1 cups, all at once, to the boiling water. Stir 2 or 3 times to combine, then immediately remove from the heat. Stir vigorously until all the liquid has been absorbed and the dough is a moist, sticky ball. Scoop the dough into a bowl and allow it to cool slightly.

4. Carefully work the dough with your hands. If this is in any way uncomfortable, let it cool for another minute or two, but keep in mind that you need to work with this dough while it is still very, very warm. Work the dough in the bowl until it is a smooth and manageable ball, 2 to 3 minutes. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the reserved rice flour, a little at a time, until the dough no longer sticks to your fingers. Keep the dough warm by covering it with a towel. Carefully work the dough with your hands. If this is in any way uncomfortable, let it cool for another minute or two, but keep in mind that you need to work with this dough while it is still very, very warm. Work the dough in the bowl until it is a smooth and manageable ball, 2 to 3 minutes. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the reserved rice flour, a little at a time, until the dough no longer sticks to your fingers. Keep the dough warm by covering it with a towel.

5. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the modak, modak, review the Bowl Fold. review the Bowl Fold.

6. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little rice flour. Also have ready the dough and the filling. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little rice flour. Also have ready the dough and the filling.

7. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inches around. Keep the remaining dough covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Use your thumbs to shape it into a bowl about 1 inches deep. This will be a wide bowl that is best supported in the palm of your hand. Place 1 teaspoon of filling in the center of the dough bowl. Close by pus.h.i.+ng and pinching the edges of the dough around and over the filling until the filling is surrounded, pus.h.i.+ng out any air. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Reroll into a ball and dust with flour. Holding the dumpling in the palm of your hand, gently pinch and pull its top until the shape is more like a pear. Place upright on the prepared tray and gently tap down to create a flat bottom or foot so that it can stand without tipping over. Repeat with the remaining filling and dough. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inches around. Keep the remaining dough covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Use your thumbs to shape it into a bowl about 1 inches deep. This will be a wide bowl that is best supported in the palm of your hand. Place 1 teaspoon of filling in the center of the dough bowl. Close by pus.h.i.+ng and pinching the edges of the dough around and over the filling until the filling is surrounded, pus.h.i.+ng out any air. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Reroll into a ball and dust with flour. Holding the dumpling in the palm of your hand, gently pinch and pull its top until the shape is more like a pear. Place upright on the prepared tray and gently tap down to create a flat bottom or foot so that it can stand without tipping over. Repeat with the remaining filling and dough.

8. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 1 inch of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Coat the bottom of the basket with ghee. Arrange as many dumplings in the basket as you can, s.p.a.cing them about inch apart. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to low, and steam for 15 minutes. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 1 inch of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Coat the bottom of the basket with ghee. Arrange as many dumplings in the basket as you can, s.p.a.cing them about inch apart. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to low, and steam for 15 minutes.

9. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the modak modak to cool slightly. Use a spoon or a small spatula to carefully move them onto a plate. Cook any remaining to cool slightly. Use a spoon or a small spatula to carefully move them onto a plate. Cook any remaining modak modak and serve with melted ghee. and serve with melted ghee.