Part 10 (1/2)

Black Sesame Roll-Ups Hei Zi Ma Juan (China) (China) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES 16 16 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Hei zi ma juan is a mildly sweet dessert or snack dumpling with an inky black color and a pure sesame flavor. This dumpling is steamed in thin sheets, rolled up into a log, and then cut into large, bite-sized pieces. When you bite into a piece of is a mildly sweet dessert or snack dumpling with an inky black color and a pure sesame flavor. This dumpling is steamed in thin sheets, rolled up into a log, and then cut into large, bite-sized pieces. When you bite into a piece of hei zi ma juan, hei zi ma juan, you can feel the layers pop softly inside your mouth as you relish the coa.r.s.e yet tender texture of the ground sesame seeds. you can feel the layers pop softly inside your mouth as you relish the coa.r.s.e yet tender texture of the ground sesame seeds.

For the Dumplings1/3 cup black sesame seeds (do not subst.i.tute with white sesame seeds) cup black sesame seeds (do not subst.i.tute with white sesame seeds)2/3 cup sugar cup sugar cup water chestnut flour or rice flour, preferably from China or Thailand cup tapioca flour (tapioca starch)Pinch of saltFor CookingToasted sesame oil or a neutral oil, such as grapeseed, to coat the cake panEquipmentClean spice or coffee grinder2-inch-high steamer rack9-inch square cake panPot large enough to hold both the rack and the pan when covered 1. Toast the black sesame seeds in a small skillet over medium heat, stirring continuously, for 2 minutes. Immediately move them to a small bowl to cool. Finely grind in the spice grinder. Toast the black sesame seeds in a small skillet over medium heat, stirring continuously, for 2 minutes. Immediately move them to a small bowl to cool. Finely grind in the spice grinder.

2. Combine the ground sesame seeds, sugar, water chestnut flour, tapioca flour, and salt in a medium heatproof bowl. Combine the ground sesame seeds, sugar, water chestnut flour, tapioca flour, and salt in a medium heatproof bowl.

3. Place the steamer rack inside the pot. Keeping the cake pan level is key for such a thin batter, so take the time now to check for any tilts or leanings with your pot or rack, and try to even things out as best you can. Add 1 inches of water to the pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, rub a little sesame oil around the inside of the cake pan. Place the steamer rack inside the pot. Keeping the cake pan level is key for such a thin batter, so take the time now to check for any tilts or leanings with your pot or rack, and try to even things out as best you can. Add 1 inches of water to the pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, rub a little sesame oil around the inside of the cake pan.

4. Heat 1 cups water in a small saucepan over medium heat until it is hot to the touch but not close to simmering. Pour the water into the sesame mixture and stir until there are no clumps. Immediately measure out cup and pour it into the prepared cake pan. Wiggle the pan until the batter spreads out evenly. Heat 1 cups water in a small saucepan over medium heat until it is hot to the touch but not close to simmering. Pour the water into the sesame mixture and stir until there are no clumps. Immediately measure out cup and pour it into the prepared cake pan. Wiggle the pan until the batter spreads out evenly.

5. Carefully place the pan on the steamer rack, cover, and steam for 5 minutes. This watery batter will cook up to a texture similar to a firm jelly. Carefully place the pan on the steamer rack, cover, and steam for 5 minutes. This watery batter will cook up to a texture similar to a firm jelly.

6. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully lift the pan out of the pot, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the sesame sheet to cool for about 2 minutes, or until cool enough to handle. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully lift the pan out of the pot, place it on a folded kitchen towel, and allow the sesame sheet to cool for about 2 minutes, or until cool enough to handle.

7. Working from any side of the pan, use your fingers to nudge an edge free and roll the thin sesame sheet up into a log, jelly-roll style. Next, trim off the uneven ends. Cut the log into 4 equal pieces and place them on a large plate seam side down. Be sure to stir and remix the remaining batter just before measuring out each batch. Serve the Working from any side of the pan, use your fingers to nudge an edge free and roll the thin sesame sheet up into a log, jelly-roll style. Next, trim off the uneven ends. Cut the log into 4 equal pieces and place them on a large plate seam side down. Be sure to stir and remix the remaining batter just before measuring out each batch. Serve the hei zi ma juan hei zi ma juan at room temperature. at room temperature. Hei zi ma juan Hei zi ma juan can be kept tightly wrapped in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Allow them to come back to room temperature before serving. can be kept tightly wrapped in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Allow them to come back to room temperature before serving.

Lemony Lentil-Chard Soup with Bulgur Dumplings Kibbet Raheb (Lebanon) (Lebanon) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES ABOUT 32 32 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

Chewy, nutty-tasting bulgur dumplings are what make this lentil soup so unusual. Bulgur is a form of cracked wheat and it will feel grainy and unworkable when you start making the dough, but it comes together beautifully as you gradually work in more flour. Because there is a fair amount of lemon juice in this soup, the darker flavors of the lentils, bulgur, and chard become zesty and vivid, making it as refres.h.i.+ng as it is nouris.h.i.+ng.

For the Soup3 tablespoons olive oil1 medium yellow onion, chopped fine2 garlic cloves, chopped very fine cup finely chopped fresh cilantro stems and leaves1/3 cup fresh lemon juice cup fresh lemon juice1 cup dried brown or green lentils, rinsed1 small bunch chard, stemmed and cut into 1-inch ribbons2 teaspoons salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepperFor the Dumplings cup finely ground bulgur teaspoon salt cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus some extra for dusting 1. MAKE THE SOUP MAKE THE SOUP: Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and stir frequently until the onion is soft, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and mix in the cilantro. Pour the lemon juice into a bowl. Measure out Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and stir frequently until the onion is soft, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and mix in the cilantro. Pour the lemon juice into a bowl. Measure out 1 1/3 cup of the onion mixture and set aside. Add the rest to the lemon juice, mix well, and set aside. cup of the onion mixture and set aside. Add the rest to the lemon juice, mix well, and set aside.

2. Fill a medium pot with 7 cups water and bring to a boil over high heat. Stir in the lentils, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 20 minutes. Add the chard, 2 teaspoons salt, and the pepper and cook for 15 minutes longer. Remove from the heat and set aside until you are ready to add the dumplings. Fill a medium pot with 7 cups water and bring to a boil over high heat. Stir in the lentils, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 20 minutes. Add the chard, 2 teaspoons salt, and the pepper and cook for 15 minutes longer. Remove from the heat and set aside until you are ready to add the dumplings.

3. MAKE THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE DUMPLINGS: While the soup is simmering, place While the soup is simmering, place 1 1/3 cup water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from the heat, stir in the bulgur, cover, and steep until all the water has been absorbed, about 1 minute. Scoop the bulgur into a medium bowl and mix in the cup water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from the heat, stir in the bulgur, cover, and steep until all the water has been absorbed, about 1 minute. Scoop the bulgur into a medium bowl and mix in the 1 1/3 cup onion mixture and the teaspoon salt. Cover and refrigerate for 15 minutes. cup onion mixture and the teaspoon salt. Cover and refrigerate for 15 minutes.

4. Mix 2 tablespoons of the flour into the chilled bulgur mixture and work the dough into one manageable ball. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If the dough is too soft or sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time. Mix 2 tablespoons of the flour into the chilled bulgur mixture and work the dough into one manageable ball. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If the dough is too soft or sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time.

5. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour.

6. Pinch off a very small piece of dough, roll it into a ball about inch around, dust with flour, and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough. Pinch off a very small piece of dough, roll it into a ball about inch around, dust with flour, and place on the prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough.

7. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Bring the soup back to a simmer over medium heat. Carefully drop the dumplings, a few at a time, into the soup. Stir gently, cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 20 minutes. Stir in the lemon and onion mixture just before serving. Bring the soup back to a simmer over medium heat. Carefully drop the dumplings, a few at a time, into the soup. Stir gently, cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 20 minutes. Stir in the lemon and onion mixture just before serving.

Fish Ravioli with a Thinned Cream Sauce Ravioli di Pesce (Italy) (Italy) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES ABOUT 40 40 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

In this recipe, the poaching liquid of the fish is turned into a delicious and light sauce for the dumplings. Sole is a standard choice, but just about any flaky, white-fleshed fish will do. Mixing some chopped anchovies into the filling is a quick way to strengthen the flavor, no matter what fish you use. If filleting a whole fish, be sure to add the head and the bones into the poaching liquid for an even richer flavor.

For the Dough1 cups Italian ”type 00” pasta flour, or cup unbleached all-purpose flour mixed with cup cake flour, plus some extra for dusting3 large eggs, plus 1 large egg yolk1 teaspoon olive oilFor the Poaching Liquid cup white wine2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice2 garlic cloves, sliced thin4 fresh thyme sprigs3 fresh marjoram sprigs teaspoon saltFor the Filling4 small white-fleshed fish fillets, such as sole, flounder, or turbot (about 1 pound)1 large egg yolk teaspoon grated lemon zest2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepperFor the Sauce4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into chunks2 garlic cloves, chopped very fine2 salt-packed or oil-packed anchovy fillets, rinsed if salt-packed, chopped fine1 plum tomato, peeled, seeded (see Glossary of Ingredients), and coa.r.s.ely chopped cup heavy cream1 tablespoon coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leavesEquipment2-inch round cookie cutterLarge, wide bowl to hold the dumplings cooked in batches 1. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Place about 1 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Mix in the eggs and yolk with a fork until all the egg has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers. Place about 1 cups of the flour in a large bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Mix in the eggs and yolk with a fork until all the egg has been absorbed. Work the dough with your hands into one manageable ball. If the dough is wet and sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time, until it no longer sticks to your fingers.

2. Place the dough on a flat work surface and knead for 4 to 5 minutes. The dough will be smooth and somewhat firm. Return the dough ball to the bowl and brush the surface with the oil. Cover with a damp towel and let it rest for at least 20 minutes before using. Place the dough on a flat work surface and knead for 4 to 5 minutes. The dough will be smooth and somewhat firm. Return the dough ball to the bowl and brush the surface with the oil. Cover with a damp towel and let it rest for at least 20 minutes before using.

3. POACH THE FISH POACH THE FISH: Pour the wine and cup water into a medium pot or a large skillet with a cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the lemon juice, sliced garlic, thyme, marjoram, and teaspoon salt. Pour the wine and cup water into a medium pot or a large skillet with a cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the lemon juice, sliced garlic, thyme, marjoram, and teaspoon salt.

4. Slide the fillets into the simmering liquid, cover, and cook for 5 minutes. Carefully remove the fillets from the broth with a slotted spoon or a spatula, place them in a shallow bowl, and set them aside until cool enough to handle. Strain the poaching liquid through a sieve into a bowl, then measure out 1 cup for the sauce. Slide the fillets into the simmering liquid, cover, and cook for 5 minutes. Carefully remove the fillets from the broth with a slotted spoon or a spatula, place them in a shallow bowl, and set them aside until cool enough to handle. Strain the poaching liquid through a sieve into a bowl, then measure out 1 cup for the sauce.

5. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Flake apart the fillets. Add the egg yolk, lemon zest, 2 tablespoons parsley, teaspoon salt, and the pepper and mix well with a fork. Cover and keep refrigerated while you roll out the dough. Flake apart the fillets. Add the egg yolk, lemon zest, 2 tablespoons parsley, teaspoon salt, and the pepper and mix well with a fork. Cover and keep refrigerated while you roll out the dough.

6. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Also have ready the dough and the filling. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little flour. Also have ready the dough and the filling.

7. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it's 1/16 inch thick. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple of minutes before cutting out rounds. Knead the dough once or twice on a floured surface, divide it into 4 equal pieces, and set 3 of them aside under a kitchen towel. Shape the remaining piece into a ball, then roll it out until it's 1/16 inch thick. (For tips on how to roll dough out thin, see Tips.) Sprinkle with flour if it gets sticky. Let the rolled-out dough relax for a couple of minutes before cutting out rounds.

8. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 16 to 20. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine. Using the cookie cutter, cut out as many rounds as you can, usually 16 to 20. Sc.r.a.ps cannot be reused because dough rolled out this thin is too dry to recombine.

9. Lay flat 4 to 8 dough rounds. Brush half of them with a little water to make them sticky enough to seal. Place a rounded teaspoon of filling in the center of each dampened round. Top each spoonful of filling with an unbrushed round, creating little sandwiches. Pinch the edges of the rounds together, pus.h.i.+ng out any air, and seal. If desired, trim or crimp the edges for a more tailored look. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling. Lay flat 4 to 8 dough rounds. Brush half of them with a little water to make them sticky enough to seal. Place a rounded teaspoon of filling in the center of each dampened round. Top each spoonful of filling with an unbrushed round, creating little sandwiches. Pinch the edges of the rounds together, pus.h.i.+ng out any air, and seal. If desired, trim or crimp the edges for a more tailored look. Place the a.s.sembled dumplings in a single layer on the prepared tray and keep them covered with a kitchen towel while you work. Once you have a.s.sembled the first batch of dumplings, continue with the remaining dough and filling.

10. Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place them in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough, making the dumplings firm and toothsome when cooked instead of puffy and soft. Cover the tray of a.s.sembled dumplings and place them in the refrigerator for 30 to 60 minutes before cooking. Chilling them helps to set the dough, making the dumplings firm and toothsome when cooked instead of puffy and soft.

11. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Gently drop half of the dumplings, a few at a time, into the water. Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, about 2 to 3 minutes, then cook for 3 minutes longer. Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Gently drop half of the dumplings, a few at a time, into the water. Stir carefully to prevent sticking. Cook until all of them are floating, about 2 to 3 minutes, then cook for 3 minutes longer.

12. Using a slotted spoon, remove the dumplings, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent them from sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings, place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid, and keep warm. Using a slotted spoon, remove the dumplings, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent them from sticking. Cook the remaining dumplings, place them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid, and keep warm.

13. MAKE THE SAUCE AND FINISH THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE SAUCE AND FINISH THE DUMPLINGS: Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Stir in the chopped garlic and the anchovies and cook for 1 minute. Carefully and quickly pour the reserved cup of poaching liquid into the pan. Simmer until the sauce has reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low, add the tomato, and swirl in the cream. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Stir in the chopped garlic and the anchovies and cook for 1 minute. Carefully and quickly pour the reserved cup of poaching liquid into the pan. Simmer until the sauce has reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low, add the tomato, and swirl in the cream.

14. Drain the ravioli and place them in the simmering sauce. Shake the pan until the ravioli are well coated and heated through. Remove from the heat, sprinkle with 1 tablespoon parsley, and serve. Drain the ravioli and place them in the simmering sauce. Shake the pan until the ravioli are well coated and heated through. Remove from the heat, sprinkle with 1 tablespoon parsley, and serve.

Sticky Rice Dumplings Stuffed with Pork and Shrimp Banh It Tran (Vietnam) (Vietnam) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 ( 6 (MAKES ABOUT 20 20 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

As with Banh Beo Banh Beo (recipe follows), these rice flour dumplings balance several flavors, from the savory and sweet pork-and-shrimp filling to the sweet and tart fish sauce they are dipped in. The dough is made with a sweet (glutinous) rice flour that gets very sticky as it cooks, so lining the steamer basket with lettuce leaves is essential. (recipe follows), these rice flour dumplings balance several flavors, from the savory and sweet pork-and-shrimp filling to the sweet and tart fish sauce they are dipped in. The dough is made with a sweet (glutinous) rice flour that gets very sticky as it cooks, so lining the steamer basket with lettuce leaves is essential.

These dumplings are made using the Bowl Fold.

For the Filling cup dried peeled mung beans10 raw medium shrimp, peeled, deveined, and kept on ice2 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil1 large shallot, chopped fine1 garlic clove, chopped very fine pound boneless pork b.u.t.t or shoulder, chopped fine1 teaspoon sugar teaspoon salt1 teaspoon fish sauce, preferably from VietnamFor the Dough2 cups sweet (glutinous) rice flour, preferably from Vietnam or Thailand, plus some extra for dusting1 cup warm waterFor the Topping*1 tablespoon grapeseed or other neutral oil2 scallions, sliced thin into rings1 recipe Sweet, Sour, and Spicy Fish Sauce (recipe follows)For Cooking and ServingSoft lettuce leaves, such as Boston, to line the steamer basket and the serving plateEquipment8- to 10-quart steamer pot 1. MAKE THE FILLING MAKE THE FILLING: Place the mung beans in a small saucepan, pour in enough water to cover them by 1 inch, and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cover and cook until the beans are very soft, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain, place the beans in a medium bowl, and mash them with a fork until mostly smooth. Place the mung beans in a small saucepan, pour in enough water to cover them by 1 inch, and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cover and cook until the beans are very soft, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain, place the beans in a medium bowl, and mash them with a fork until mostly smooth.

2. Finely chop the shrimp and set aside. Finely chop the shrimp and set aside.

3. Heat the 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the shallot and garlic and stir until the shallot is soft, about 3 minutes. Mix in the mashed mung beans, the chopped shrimp, and the pork. As the pork begins to brown, break up any clumps with a wooden spoon. Add the sugar, salt, and fish sauce and stir frequently until the pork is golden brown, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, scoop into a bowl, and set aside to cool. (You can also make the filling in advance and keep it tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.) Heat the 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the shallot and garlic and stir until the shallot is soft, about 3 minutes. Mix in the mashed mung beans, the chopped shrimp, and the pork. As the pork begins to brown, break up any clumps with a wooden spoon. Add the sugar, salt, and fish sauce and stir frequently until the pork is golden brown, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, scoop into a bowl, and set aside to cool. (You can also make the filling in advance and keep it tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.) 4. MAKE THE DOUGH MAKE THE DOUGH: Place 2 cups of the rice flour in a medium bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Pour in the warm water and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Knead the dough in the bowl for a minute. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If it is too soft or sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time. Place 2 cups of the rice flour in a medium bowl and keep the remaining cup handy. Pour in the warm water and mix until all the liquid has been absorbed. Knead the dough in the bowl for a minute. This dough needs to be firm enough to hold its shape when rolled into b.a.l.l.s. If it is too soft or sticky, work in some of the remaining flour, a little at a time.

5. a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS a.s.sEMBLE THE DUMPLINGS: Before a.s.sembling the Before a.s.sembling the banh it tran, banh it tran, review the Bowl Fold. review the Bowl Fold.

6. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little rice flour. Have ready the dough and the filling. Line a tray with a kitchen towel and sprinkle with a little rice flour. Have ready the dough and the filling.

7. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inches around. Keep the remaining dough covered with a kitchen towel as you work. Use your thumbs to shape it into a bowl about 1 inch deep. This will be a wide bowl that is best supported in the palm of your hand. Place a rounded tablespoon of filling in the center of the dough bowl. Close by pus.h.i.+ng and pinching the edges of the dough around and over the filling until the filling is surrounded, pus.h.i.+ng out any air. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Reroll into a ball, dust with flour, and place on the prepared tray. Continue with the remaining dough and filling. Pinch off a small piece of dough and roll it into a ball about 1 inches around. Keep the remaining dough covered with a kitchen towel as you work. Use your thumbs to shape it into a bowl about 1 inch deep. This will be a wide bowl that is best supported in the palm of your hand. Place a rounded tablespoon of filling in the center of the dough bowl. Close by pus.h.i.+ng and pinching the edges of the dough around and over the filling until the filling is surrounded, pus.h.i.+ng out any air. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Reroll into a ball, dust with flour, and place on the prepared tray. Continue with the remaining dough and filling.

8. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and freeze the rest (see Tips). Keep the dumplings you are planning to cook in the refrigerator on a plate or tray, covered with a kitchen towel, until it's time to steam them. Set aside the number of dumplings that you would like to cook and freeze the rest (see Tips). Keep the dumplings you are planning to cook in the refrigerator on a plate or tray, covered with a kitchen towel, until it's time to steam them.

9. MAKE THE SCALLION TOPPING MAKE THE SCALLION TOPPING: Heat the 1 tablespoon oil in a small skillet over medium heat and add the scallions. Stir until the scallions are just beginning to brown, about 1 minute. Immediately remove from the heat, scoop into a bowl, and set aside. Heat the 1 tablespoon oil in a small skillet over medium heat and add the scallions. Stir until the scallions are just beginning to brown, about 1 minute. Immediately remove from the heat, scoop into a bowl, and set aside.

10. STEAM THE DUMPLINGS STEAM THE DUMPLINGS: Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 1 inch of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Line the basket with lettuce leaves. Arrange as many dumplings in the basket as you can, s.p.a.cing them about inch apart. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 6 to 8 minutes. Remove the basket from the steamer pot, add 1 inch of water to the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. Line the basket with lettuce leaves. Arrange as many dumplings in the basket as you can, s.p.a.cing them about inch apart. Place the basket in the pot, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and steam for 6 to 8 minutes.

11. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Arrange a few lettuce leaves on a plate. Use a spoon or a small spatula to move the dumplings to the prepared plate. Sprinkle fried scallions over each, then drizzle them with a little Sweet, Sour, and Spicy Fish Sauce. Serve immediately while you cook any remaining dumplings. Remove the pot from the heat. Carefully remove the basket and place it on a folded kitchen towel. Arrange a few lettuce leaves on a plate. Use a spoon or a small spatula to move the dumplings to the prepared plate. Sprinkle fried scallions over each, then drizzle them with a little Sweet, Sour, and Spicy Fish Sauce. Serve immediately while you cook any remaining dumplings.

SWEET, SOUR, AND SPICY FISH SAUCE.

MAKES ABOUT CUP CUP.

1 garlic clove, chopped coa.r.s.e2 small hot red chiles, such as Hanoi Red, cored, seeded, and chopped coa.r.s.e2 tablespoons sugar1 small hot red chile, such as Hanoi Red, stemmed and sliced into thin rings2 tablespoons rice vinegar or coconut vinegar1 tablespoon fish sauce, preferably from Vietnam ime or lemonEquipmentMortar and pestle Pound the garlic and the chopped chiles in the mortar with the pestle until well mashed, then scoop it into a small bowl. Add the sugar, chile rings, vinegar, and 2 tablespoons water and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Stir in the fish sauce. Keep in a tightly sealed container for up to 1 month in the refrigerator. Squeeze the lime juice into the sauce just before serving.

Rice and Tapioca Dumplings Topped with Shrimp and Bean Paste Banh Beo (Vietnam) (Vietnam) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES 20 20 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).