Part 85 (2/2)

cup shoyu (j.a.panese soy sauce)

2 teaspoons sugar

ounce dried s.h.i.+take mushrooms

(4-5 dried)

2 (-inch-thick) slices fresh ginger, lightly crushed with the side of a knife

Stew: pound fresh udon noodles

1 large leek, washed well and sliced into -inch lengths

1 large carrot, peeled and sliced into -thick pieces

1-2 pounds kabocha (about 1 small squash), unpeeled but seeded and sliced into 2 1-inch pieces

6-8 ounces fried tofu pouches (aburage), or firm silken tofu, sliced into strips or cubes

cup sake

2 tablespoons mirin

2 scallions, sliced very thin

Optional garnishes: j.a.panese hot pepper powder and additional shoyu

PREPARE THE broth: Pour 2 quarts of water into a large soup pot and add the kombu, shoyu, sugar, dried s.h.i.+takes, and ginger. Bring the water to a boil, then lower the heat so that it gently simmers. Cook for 15 minutes.

Taste the broth and add a little more shoyu if it's not quite salty enough (but don't overdo it-it's easy to pour too much!). Remove the kombu, ginger, and mushrooms. Allow the mushrooms to cool enough to handle, slice very thinly, and return to pot. Cover the pot and keep the broth warm over a low flame.

Kabocha squash is an Asian pumpkin with deep orange, nutty-flavored flesh that's sweeter and slightly drier that regular pumpkin. A bonus for lazy cooks: the deep green, thin skin of kabocha squash cooks up tender and edible, so no need to peel. We have no problem finding it in supermarkets but, if you can't find it, use peeled sugar pumpkin, acorn, delicate, or b.u.t.ternut. You'll probably need to extend the cooking time for these squash, cooking an additional 10 to 15 minutes until the squash is tender.

Kombu, dried giant kelp, is a standard ingredient in j.a.panese soups and condiments. When cooked in a stock or broth, it will unfold into a really big sheet. Don't freak out, just let the stock cook as directed and then remove and discard the kelp when it's done.

Dried udon works just fine here, too. Cook the noodles according to the package directions and rinse in cold water, then keep them handy in a colander. Rinse in warm water when ready to add to stir-fry.

In a separate pot, bring 3 quarts of water to a boil. Add the udon noodles and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until tender. Use chopsticks to pull apart the noodles while they are cooking. Transfer to a colander in the sink, rinse well with cold water, and allow the noodles to continue to drain. If at any point the noodles get too gummy and sticky, rinse with warm water to separate.

Meanwhile, add the leek, carrot, kabocha, and tofu to the broth. Simmer over medium-low heat for 20 to 25 minutes, until the squash is tender and can be pierced easily with a fork. Stir in the sake and mirin.

Place portions of the rinsed udon noodles into large, deep, individual serving bowls. Use a slotted spoon to add vegetable chunks to the bowls, then a ladle to spoon on the stock. Sprinkle with chopped scallions. Eat with a large spoon and chopsticks.

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