Part 50 (1/2)

SERVES 6 TO 8.

TIME: ABOUT 65 MINUTES (NOT INCLUDING BEAN-SOAKING TIME).

These are simple, homey, French-inspired, stick-to-your-ribs beans for early autumn days. The tarragon and leeks really s.h.i.+ne through the mild white beans, and the mushrooms add a chewy bite. Tomato Couscous with Capers (page 117) rounds out this meal. This recipe is made with dried beans; canned beans can't be subst.i.tuted, so plan accordingly and soak the beans overnight or in the morning before you leave to work, if indeed you have a job and don't just sit at home cooking all day.

For a real treat, prepare the ca.s.serole-style variation that follows: a delectable layer of b.u.t.tery, herbed bread crumbs tops the beans and then the whole thing is baked to golden-brown perfection.

2 cups dried white beans, soaked for at least 8 hours

1 small onion, peeled and sliced in half

1 stalk celery, cut into two pieces

1 small carrot, sliced in half lengthwise

1 teaspoon dried thyme

2 teaspoons dried tarragon, or 2 tablespoons fresh

cup olive oil

2 large cloves garlic, peeled and minced

1 large leek, sliced thinly

pound (about 2 generous cups) mushrooms, either cremini, s.h.i.+take, or oyster, or a combination, rinsed and sliced thinly

1 teaspoon salt, or more to taste

Freshly ground pepper

DRAIN AND rinse the beans and transfer them to a stockpot. Add 4 cups of cold water, cover, and bring to a boil. Boil for about 3 minutes. Skim off any white foam from the top. Cover the pot and lower the heat to medium; add the onion, celery, carrot, thyme, and tarragon.

Simmer for about 45 minutes, until the beans are very tender. Remove the onion, carrot, and celery (either discard or use in a stock). Lower the heat to low and continue to simmer while preparing the remaining vegetables. The beans should resemble a very thick stew, not a soup. If there's too much liquid, leave the pot uncovered and stir occasionally.

About 10 minutes before the beans are done, place the garlic and 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a cold skillet. Heat the skillet over medium heat, allowing garlic to sizzle for about 30 seconds. Add the chopped leek and saute until soft, 1 to 2 minutes. Sc.r.a.pe the leeks into beans. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil to the pan, allow it to warm for about 30 seconds, and add the mushrooms. Sprinkle the mushrooms lightly with teaspoon salt and saute until most of the mushroom liquid has evaporated, anywhere from 8 to 12 minutes depending on the kind of mushroom. When most of the excess liquid is gone, add the mushrooms to beans. Turn off the heat and season the beans with the remaining salt (or more, if desired) and freshly ground black pepper. Allow the beans to stand for about 10 minutes before serving.

Variation: Crumb-Topped Ca.s.serole: Preheat the oven to 350F. Spread the cooked bean mixture into a 2-quart ca.s.serole dish. Top with the Sage Bread Crumbs from the Pumpkin Baked Ziti (page 194), and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the bread crumbs are golden and the beans are bubbling.

MEDITERRANEAN-STYLE BAKED LIMA BEANS.