Part 11 (1/2)

2-3 teaspoons olive oil

12 (8-inch) round rice paper wrappers

4 ounces vermicelli rice noodles or rice sticks

1 cup fresh cilantro, torn into bite-size pieces (Thai

basil makes a nice variation)

cup roasted, salted pumpkin seeds, chopped

coa.r.s.ely

Dipping sauce *contains soy: 2 tablespoons soy sauce

3 tablespoons rice vinegar

1 tablespoon Asian hot chile oil (or more to taste)

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

2 tablespoons sugar

Prepare the squash: Preheat the oven to 400F. Place the b.u.t.ternut cubes on a baking sheet and rub them all over with the oil; drizzle on another teaspoon if you need to. Arrange the cubes in a single layer and roast for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven, toss, and cook for 10 more minutes or until tender and slightly caramelized. Transfer the squash to a plate to cool.

While the squash is cooking, prepare the noodles. There are usually directions on the package, but just in case: Boil a large pot of water. Once it is boiling, turn off the heat, add the noodles, and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Drain in a colander and run cold water over them to prevent further cooking. Set aside until ready to use.

To a.s.semble: Fill a large pie plate or bowl with very warm water; tap water works just fine. Place two rice paper wrappers in the water at a time, completely submerged and let sit for about a minute, until they have softened.

Handle each wrapper gently as you place it on your work surface. Place about cup of rice noodles in the lower third of the wrapper, leaving about 1 inches of margin from the far edges on either side (you'll be folding those in). Place a layer of b.u.t.ternut squash above the noodles. Sprinkle with the cilantro and pumpkin seeds. If some of the seeds get stuck to your fingers, just dip them in the water. To roll, snugly fold the left and right sides of the wrapper over the filling. Lift the bottom of the wrapper over the filling and tuck it underneath the filling, then roll firmly but gently. Place the rolls seam side down on a plate and cut in half when ready to serve. Mix the dipping sauce ingredients together and stir rigorously to dissolve the sugar. Serve with the rolls.

BROCCOLI-MILLET CROQUETTES.

MAKES 16 CROQUETTES.

TIME: 2 HOURS, LOTS OF IT INACTIVE.

Somehow, forming anything into a croquette makes a meal very impressive, even though it is an easy thing to do. Millet and broccoli are cooked together with garlic, tarragon, and red pepper, formed into squat little cus.h.i.+ons, and lightly panfried. These make a great vehicle for the White Bean Aioli (page 62) or Dill-Tahini Sauce (page 215). They are delicately flavored, so definitely include a sauce when you serve. Round out the meal with roasted asparagus and red peppers (page 26).

Make ahead: Prepare the millet and broccoli a day in advance. Then you only need about 20 minutes to finish preparing this dish.

1 tablespoon olive oil, plus extra for panfrying

2 cloves garlic, minced