Part 2 (1/2)

Agar powder/flakes: A magical seaweed that, when boiled in a liquid, forms a kick-a.s.s vegan alternative to gelatin. We feel like we're forever talking about the wonders of agar, but that's a small price to pay for the world to know what they're missing. Fun fact: agar ”gelatin” can firm up at room temperature, unlike that stuff made from animal bones (but it will cool faster if refrigerated). Purchase agar in either powdered or flake form. The powder is a little easier to use and considerably more concentrated than the flakes. The flakes should be allowed to soak in the liquid they will be boiled in for about 10 minutes before heating. Agar can be found in well-stocked health food stores or Asian groceries.

Agave nectar: Agave is the majestic cactus used to make tequila of all stripes in Mexico. And it just happens that the sap (before distilling) is a tasty, syrupy stuff that's sweeter than sugar and entirely agreeable in dressings, drinks, desserts, and baked goods. Not to make any revolutionary health claims, but it seems that some people with certain sugar intolerances can handle agave nectar with ease. More and more regular supermarkets are carrying agave these days, but if yours doesn't, try a health food store.

Baking powder and baking soda: The wonder twins of chemical leaveners that are the key to success with vegan baked goods. Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) is an alkali ingredient that releases leavening carbon dioxide when it is combined with moisture. Baking powder is baking soda plus an acid salt (such as cream of tartar). When double-acting baking powder is combined with an acidic ingredient (such as vinegar or lemon juice), you get the chemical reaction that makes your cakes and m.u.f.fins rise, first when wet meets dry and again when the batter goes into the oven. Are you still awake? Have fresh boxes in your pantry at all times.

Extracts: Vanilla extract, the Cadillac of extracts, is one you'll most often be using. So it's worth spending a little extra to get the real stuff-stay away from anything labeled ”artificial” or ”vanillin.” It's hard to imagine any baked good without a hint of vanilla; it pulls all the ingredients together and provides that bakery-fresh aroma. If you love to bake, it's recommended that you pad your baking supplies with a few extra extracts. Others we use in this book include almond, anise, hazelnut, and coconut, but it never hurts to add other extracts to your collection, such as lemon, mint, or raspberry.

Liqueurs: Back to the booze again! Liqueurs have been used to flavor all kinds of food for centuries but we mostly use them when baking. Hazelnut and coffee liqueur are our hands-down favorites, the ones we use most often in our dessert recipes. Unless you live in a state where it's legal to sell hard alcohol in the supermarket, you'll find flavored liqueurs at the liquor store.

Maple syrup: Isa calls this ”the taste of freedom” because she spends too much time in Vermont. Pure maple syrup can be expensive so we use it sparingly, not just for baking but to give a hint of sweetness where ever needed. But it isn't just for the elite. Budget-minded people like us are never fooled into buying a little expensive bottle of the ”grade A” stuff. ”Grade B” syrup, a little darker in color but just as flavorful, works just as fine for you, me, and true democracy. Don't forget to refrigerate after opening.

Shortening, nonhydrogenated: We don't use it much in our recipes, but a little bit makes piecrusts flaky and gives cookies a dense, chewy, or shortbreadlike texture. Our favorite brand is Earth Balance.

SUGARS.

Yes, we're guilty of using sugar. While we love whole wheat, sugar-free raisin bran m.u.f.fins as much as the next guy, we also know that life often requires fluffy cupcakes, chocolate chip cookies, and pumpkin crumble pie. Adding sugar is also much cheaper than baking with maple syrup or agave all the time, not to mention far more predicable when it comes to getting the results you want with baked goods. Happily, lots of organic, vegan-friendly sugar options are easily obtainable these days:Granulated sugar: When we call for just ”sugar,” we always mean granulated. We use interchangeably evaporated cane juice, such as Florida Crystals, or brands that specifically say ”beet sugar” on the packaging. ”Cane sugar” is typically made with the use of animal products in the form of bone char in the processing, so some vegans avoid it.

Brown sugar: Also called muscovado sugar when it is raw and unrefined, typical brown sugar is refined sugar with a little bit of the mola.s.ses left in or added back to it.

Confectioners' sugar: A combination of finely ground sugar and cornstarch, also called powdered sugar. We use confectioners' sugar to create glazes and frostings.

Turbinado sugar: A coa.r.s.e, unrefined, steam-cleansed sugar that has bigger crystals (for example, Sugar in the Raw) We use turbinado wherever a little crunch is desired. You can also use it in place of regular sugar, but results may vary.

FLOURS AND THICKENING STARCHES.

All-purpose flour: You should always have a sack of unbleached all-purpose flour the size of a small child around. Even if the cupboard is bare, you'll be able to whip up some pancakes or m.u.f.fins. Even though we mostly use flour for baking, we've also been known to use it to thicken sauces and make tempura.

Arrowroot, powder/ground: This fine white powder-ground from the roots of a tropical vine-is ideal for thickening sauces and soups, particularly if a clear, nonopaque appearance is desired. Arrowroot also helps bind and provides a crisp texture in baked goods.

Chickpea flour: A pale yellow flour, sometimes called garbanzo flour, made from ground chickpeas. Look for it in most health food stores and Indian grocery markets where it is called gram flour or besan). Imparts a sweet, nutty, beany (some might even call it ”eggy”) flavor to baked goods and sauces. It's especially good for crepes and flatbreads.

Cornmeal: We use it in some recipes to add a little crunch, particularly to baked goods. And having some around in case of a corn bread emergency is not a bad idea.

Cornstarch: Also used to thicken, at half the price of other starches. Plus, it adds crispiness and structure to baked goods.

Tapioca flour: Our starch of choice for thickening custards and fruit pies, available at health food stores. This is a fine powder; do not use granular or pearl tapioca as a subst.i.tute.

Whole wheat pastry flour: Whole wheat pastry flour (not to be confused with ordinary whole wheat flour) is just as finely milled as white flour, but not all of the bran and germ has been processed out of it, making it a healthier, more fiberific choice. It is difficult to detect a very significant difference between whole pastry and regular old all-purpose flours, but whole wheat pastry flour can make baked goods a bit more dense and healthier tasting, so we often do an equal mix with all-purpose.

Vital wheat gluten: The naturally occurring protein in wheat that makes it all happen; it's what gives wheat dough its characteristic stretch and makes seitan (sometimes called wheat meat) so toothsome. We also use it in combination with beans in several recipes to give a more chewy, meaty texture. Look for organic brands at your health food store, usually in the baking section. We recommend Arrowhead Mills brand above others if you have a choice.

OILS.

Canola oil: Short for ”Canada oil” and formerly known as ”rapeseed oil” this oil is now politically correctly named, available most everywhere, and a fine choice for multipurpose use. Mild in flavor, it's perfect for baking and cooking when a neutral-tasting oil is desired. Look for ”high-heat” canola oil for use in sauteing and grilling. Canola oil also provides you with a healthy dose of essential omega-3 fatty acids.

What Is a Fatty Acid and Why Is It Essential?

WITHOUT getting into words that we cannot p.r.o.nounce, our bodies need fats, not only to store energy but to absorb vitamins and protect our vital organs from disease (unless you don't consider your brain a vital organ). We naturally produce some of the necessary fats but others need to be obtained from our diet. The very base of our existence, our cells, are largely composed of such fatty acids making these, well, essential!

Coconut oil, refined/unrefined: Poor coconut oil has been typecast in the role of a nutritional bad guy for too long. Nonhydrogenated coconut oil is perfectly healthy consumed in small amounts. We like unrefined oil for its luscious coconut aroma and delicate flavor. It's a favorite of ours when cooking Indian and Southeast Asian inspired cuisine.

Olive oil: There's a reason people have been cultivating this stuff for thousands of years. Olive oil is so good for you, plus its rich, earthy, and fruity flavor is essential in cooking all things Mediterranean and Middle Eastern. We use extra-virgin for almost everything, but the purist might want to use cheaper virgin or blended oils for frying (even though people have been shallow-frying in good olive oils for as long as it's been made, it can be used for longer or deeper frying. The key is to use low to medium heat, never, ever high heat!).

Grapeseed oil: A light, nearly colorless oil made from pressed grape seeds. We love it in salad dressing because it has the thickness and body of olive oil, but a neutral taste. While it isn't an essential thing to have, it should be the first item you purchase once you've decided to broaden your oil horizons. It's a bit pricier than canola oil, but not as expensive as olive oil and it's available in most health food stores and, increasingly in regular old supermarkets.

Peanut oil: Another stock oil in our pantries, peanut oil is a must when cooking many things Asian, as it's often that little touch of authentic flavor that missing from homemade stir-fries and curries. Its high smoke point also makes it perfect for frying.

Toasted sesame oil: We don't usually use this oil to cook with, but it adds a fragrant sesame taste to finished dishes and salad dressings. Regular sesame oil can be subst.i.tuted for toasted but the flavor will not be anywhere as intense.

PANTRY SUNDRIES.

Why say ”other stuff” when you could say sundries?