Part 50 (1/2)
6
14
8.10 (A. M.) to 6.15 (P. M.). Snow hard. Ice
flat. Few hummocks. Less wavy. Snow (shoes).
Sun faces.
7
14
11 to 10. Beautiful clear weather; even the
night sky clear. Midnight sun first seen.
Ice 36 ft. (thick). (Another measurement gave
21 feet.)
8
9
Observation before starting, 86.36, 94.2. In
spite of what seemed like long marches we made
only 106 miles in 9 days. Much distance lost in
crossings. (From field paper) bar. 29.50,
rising; temp. -37; wind mag. N. E., 2; clouds
St. 3; shadow (6 ft. pole), 32 feet.
9
14
9 A. M. to 5.30 P. M.; snow hard; ice about the
same; wind cutting; frost bites. Clothes humid.
10
16
10 P. M. to 7 A. M. Working hours changed; big
marches and long hours no longer possible; snow
good; ice steadily improving; bodily fatigue
much felt; wind 1-28 W.
11
15
10.30 to 8 A. M. Observation end of March,
87.20, 95.19; the pack disturbance of B. Ld.
lost; farthest north; little crushed ice;
old floes less irregular; anxious about food;
wind 3 W. (true); 300 miles in 24 days; work
intermittent; too tired to read instruments.
(From other field notes, Temp. -39;
bar. 29.90.)
12
21
11 P. M. to 7 A. M. Thoughts of return. Food
supply reduced. Hope to economize in warmer
weather. Very heavy ice. Much like land ice.
Wind 2 W. S. W. The awful monotony!
13
17
12 P. M. to 7 A. M. The same heavy glacier-like
ice.... The occasional soup. Hummocks 15-20 ft.
Ahwelah in tears at start. W. black. Sun under
rus.h.i.+ng vapors. Ice changes. Leads.
14
23
11 P. M. to 7.10 A. M. 88.21, 95.52. Wind light
but penetrating. Off the big field, ice smaller.
Some open leads. Little sign of pressure. Snow
soft, but less precipitation. Dogs get up
better speed. 100 miles from Pole. (From other
observation papers: Bar. 29.90, falling;
temp., -44; shadow (6 ft. pole) 30 feet.)
15
14
10 P. M. to 7 A. M. Ice same. Wind -1, S. W.
Working to the limit of muscle capacity. So
tired and weary of the never ceasing tread!
16
15
10.30 to 8 A. M. Ice pa.s.sed. Several heavy old
floes. Made 6 crossings. Wind 1-3, W. S. W.
17
13
10.15 to 8 A. M. Ice same. Creva.s.ses new.
7 crossings. Saw several big hummocks. Ice
less troublesome. Temp., -40; bar., 30.00.
Sled friction less.
18
14
9 P. M. to 6. Ice, though broken, smooth. The
horizon line not so irregular as that of more
S. ice. Sky and ice of a dark purple blue.
(Bar. 30.02.)
19
16
11 P. M. to 8 A. M. (Position) 89.31. D. R.
94.03. Camp on an old field--the only one on
the horizon with big hummocks. Ice in very large
fields; surface less irregular, but in other
respects not different from farther S. Eskimos
told that in two average marches Pole would be
reached. Extra rations served. Camp in tent.
(Bar., 29.98; Temp., -46.)
20
15
8 P. M. to 4 A. M. An exciting run; ice aglow in
purple and gold; Eskimos chanting. Wind, S. 1
89; 46.45. (D. R.) 94.52. New enthusiasm; good
march. Temp., -36; bar. (not legible on notes);
course set for 97th.
21
13
1 A. M. to 9 A. M. Observations noon: 89; 59.45;
ped. 14. Camp; sleep in tent short time; after
observations advance; pitch tent; (also) made
camp--snow--prepared for two rounds of
observations. Temp., 37.7; bar., 29.83. Nothing
wonderful; no Pole; a sea of unknown depth; ice
more active; new cracks; open leads; but surface
like farther south. Overjoyed but find no words
to express pleasure. So tired and weary! How we
need a rest! 12, night. Sun seems as high as at
noon, but in reality is a little higher, owing
to its spiral ascent. The mental elation--the
drying of furs, and (making) photos--Eskimos'
ideas and disappointment of no Pole--thoughts
of home and its cheer. But oh, such monotony of
sky, wind and ice! The dangers of getting back.
(From other observation papers: Temp, ranged
from -36 by mercury thermometer to -39 by
spirit thermometer; clouds Alt. St., 1; wind
mag. S., 1; ice blink E.; water sky, W.; shadow
(of 6 ft. pole) 28 feet.)
22
0
Moved camp 4 m. magnetic S. Made 4 observations
for alt.i.tude; S. at noon, W. at 6, N. at 12M, E.
at 6 A. M. Ice same; more open water; wind 2-3;
temp., -41; (from field paper) W. S. W., 1 to
2. There are only two big hummocks in sight.
(Made a series of observations for the sun's
alt.i.tude, 2 on the 21st at the first camp, 4 on
the 22nd at W. M. camp, and another midnight
22-23. Before we left deposited tube.)
23
20
Start for home. 12.30 to noon. Fairly clear--ice
smooth, but many new creva.s.ses. Temp., -41.
Course for 100 mer.
24
16
11 P. M. to 9 A. M. These records, being made at
the end of the day's journey, give the doings of
the day previous--this note for the 24th is in
reality written on the morning of the 25th, when
comfortable in camp. Wind 1-2 W. Temp., -36.
Ice smooth--fields larger; 5 crossings; the
pleasure of facing home.
25
15
8-8. Temp., -37; Wind 1-2 W. S. W.; ice same.
The worry of ice breaking up for me, signs of
joy for the Eskimo.
26
14
9 to 7. Still much worried about return;
possibility of ice disruption and open water
near land; wind light; ice shows new cracks,
but few have opened; seems to be little
pressure; few hummocks; snow hard and
traveling all that could be desired.
27
14
9.30 to 8. Ice same; wind S. E. 1; good going;
crossings not troublesome; dogs in good spirits;
Eskimos happy; but all very tired. Temp., -40.
28
14
9.15 to 7.45. Ice same; wind 1 W.; snow
moderately hard; few hummocks and no pressure
lines.
29
13
Midnight to 8.45 A. M. Ice more active; fresh
cracks; some open cracks but no leads. Wind 1 S.
30
15
Midnight to 8 A. M. Ped. registered 121 m. from
Pole; camp by D. R., 87.59-100; observations
88.01, 97.42. Course half point more W.
Temp., -34. Start more westerly.
May
1
18
12.30 to 9 A. M. Much color to the sunbursts, 1908.
but the air humid; the temperature persistently
near -40, but considerable range with the
direction of the light winds and mists when
they come over leads. Much very heavy smooth
ice--undulating, not hummocky like S.
2
12
2 A. M. to 11 A. M. Fog, clouds and wet air.
Temp., -15. Hard to strike a course.
3
13
1 A. M. to 10 A. M. Thick weather; wind E. 2;
ice friction less; occasional light snow fall.
4
14
3 to 11 A. M. Air clear but sky obscured; ice
very good, but hummocks appearing on the
horizon.
5
11
11 P. M. to 6 A. M. Strong wind; occasional