Part 5 (1/2)
Formerly this little church was very curious in some of its portions. It is the only one in Rouen, which offers the three semi-circular _absides_, which we find in most of the monuments of the XIth century.
The middle is the highest and projects farther out than the other two.
There is a row of curious figures on the outside of the edifice in its whole circ.u.mference: some of which are represented with great moustaches. According to Mr Cotman, who has remarked figures of a similar description in different parts of Normandy, these great moustaches must at first have been a satire upon the Saxons who wore them, when at the same time the Normans had their heads completely shaved. Robert Wace tells us that at the battle of Hastings the English took the Normans for an army of priests.
In the interior of the edifice, the triple choir was separated from the nave by a semi-circular arcade, the capital of which was covered with sculptures, which have been unfortunately destroyed. This nave was modern, and dated only from the commencement of the XVIIth century, the most ancient portion is from the commencement of the XIth century.
The modern portion was destroyed some years since. A new church in the form of an ancient basilica has been erected close to it, from the designs of Mr Du Boullay. Antiquaries will learn with pleasure that the administration of the town has taken measures to preserve the three _absides_ of the ancient little edifice, with the intention of using it as a sacristy to the new church.
The walk, at the extremity of which the church of Saint-Paul is situated, was formed in 1692 and 1693; but was only the planted in 1729.
The whole s.p.a.ce from watering place to the foot of mount Saint-Catherine was formerly a vast meadow with a few gardens. The road when finished was called the _Chemin neuf_; it is now called the _cours Dauphin_, so named in memory of the birth of the dauphin, son of Lewis XVth.
At the extremity of this avenue there are several springs of mineral waters. They are called the waters of Saint-Paul, from the name of the parish. There are also several of similar description in the quarter Martainville, called la Marequerie.
PROTESTANT WORs.h.i.+P.
SAINT-eLOI.
Before the Seine was enclosed in its present bed, the church of Saint-Eloi was situated on an Island. Afterwards, without changing place, it found itself situated on the _terres neuves_, like the other churches, Saint-Etienne-des-Tonneliers, Saint-Clement, and Saint-Martin-du-Pont. In 1030, under the duke Robert, those new lands were considered as suburbs of Rouen: _In suburbia Rotomagensi ecclesiam sancti Eligii_, etc.
The church of Saint-Eloi was formerly considered as one of the best lighted in the town of Rouen. There were, a short time since, but are now walled up, three windows, of which the painted gla.s.s was executed in the XVIth century; they have been transferred to Saint-Mary's, to ornament the museum of antiquities. Formerly there was a well in the choir, but which is now filled up, from which the water was drawn up by a chain, from whence the proverb, still used in Rouen, is derived: It is cold as the chain of the well of Saint-Eloi.
This church has been granted for protestant wors.h.i.+p, since 1803. The number of persons who profess this wors.h.i.+p in Rouen, is about 2,000. The service commences at eleven o'clock in the morning. English service is also performed in this church at three o'clock in the afternoon.
The _place Saint-Eloi_ does not offer any thing worthy of notice; it was the ancient burying ground of the parish of that name: and has since become the poultry and game market.
CHURCHES CLOSED IN 1791,
WHICH DESERVE THE ATTENTION OF THE ANTIQUARY.
SAINT-PIERRE-DU-CHATEL,
At the top of the rue Nationale.
This religious edifice, which is of the XVth century, did not offer any thing remarkable but its tower, which is entire.
SAINT-ANDRe-DANS-LA-VILLE,
Rue aux Ours, near the rue de la Vicomte, was erected between the years 1526 and 1557.