Part 3 (1/2)
The length, within the walls, is four hundred and sixteen feet eight inches (about four hundred and fifty feet english measure), which may be divided in the following manner: The nave, two hundred and forty four feet; the choir, one hundred and two feet; the remaining portion, to the extremity of the chapel of the Virgin, seventy feet eight inches; in the whole, eight feet eight inches more than the Cathedral. The height under the keystone is one hundred feet. The breadth, including the aisles, is seventy eight feet; viz: thirty four feet for the nave, and twenty two feet for each aisle. The transept is one hundred and thirty feet in length, by thirty four in width.
The church is lighted by one hundred and twenty five windows placed in three rows not including the three rosaces. The second row lights a circular inner gallery, which is above the aisles, and several of them offer paintings of great beauty. Amongst others Saint-Romain is represented making himself master of the _Gargouille_, and forcing the Seine to return to its bed.
Against the first pillar to the right, on entering by the Western porch, is placed a large marble vessel containing holy water. By a very curious optical effect, we can see the roof of the church in its entire length.
The choir was formerly separated by a magnificent screen, of which we find an engraving in the _History of the Abbey_, by Pommeraye. This screen, was erected in 1462 by the munificence of the cardinal d'Estouteville; in 1562, it was partly destroyed by the calvinists, and repaired in 1655, by William Cotterel, grand prior of Saint-Ouen. This fine structure entirely disappeared at the revolution.
Eleven chapels, including the one dedicated to the Virgin, surround the choir of the church. The first, in going towards the eastern extremity, contains the baptismal font, and is dedicated to Saint-Martial. There also, was formerly a very curious clock, which has disappeared within the last forty years. A small figure of Saint-Michael came out and struck the hours on a figure representing satan and then disappeared.
In the second chapel, following the same direction, Alexander de Berneval, one of the architects of the church, was buried in 1440. He is represented, on the sepulchral stone which covers his remains, by the side of his pupil; the following inscription is engraved on this stone in gothic letters:
Ci gist maistre Alexandre de Berneval, maistre des uvres de Machonnerie du Roy, notre Sire, du baillage de Rouen et de cette Eglise, qui trespa.s.sa l'an de grace mil CCCCXL le vo jour de janvier. Priez Dieu pour l'ame de lui.
We also remark the statue of Sainte-Cecile, which is placed between two pillars of the corinthian order. The other chapels, except that of the Virgin, do not offer any thing remarkable.
English tourists will find in the latter, the tomb of the youngest son of Talbot; the following is the epitaph:
Ci gist n.o.ble homme Jean Tallebot, fils du sieur de Tallebot, Mareschal de France, qui deceda en aunees de puerilite, le IV Banvier MCCCCx.x.xVIII.
The interior of the church contains several fine paintings, such as: _The miracle of the loaves_, by Daniel Halle, and _a Visitation_, by Deshayes, of Rouen, in the chapel of the Virgin; _an opening of the holy gate_, by Leger, of Rouen, behind the pulpit on the wall of the aisle.
This painting has been much spoiled by the damp. The different chapels also contain some less worthy of notice.
The great tower is altogether a monument of great beauty. Its height is about one hundred feet above the roof of the church. It is surmounted by a crown wrought in openwork and of a fine effect. The total height of the tower is two hundred and forty four feet, from the pavement of the church. It is supported, in the interior of the edifice, by four pillars, each formed of a group of twenty four columns.
The whole body of the church is supported, to the exterior, by thirty four arches, forming with the b.u.t.tresses by which they are supported, a most magnificent ensemble.
The western porch from its unfinished state does not offer any thing remarkable except the rosace of which we have already spoken.
The southern porch, commonly called _des Marmquzels_, merits much more the attention of the curious, by the astonis.h.i.+ng variety of sculptures, which ornament it. We may especially admire two pendants of a very bold execution.
Above the door, is a bas-relief, which is divided into three parts, representing the different circ.u.mstances of the sepulture of the Virgin, of her a.s.sumption and entrance into heaven. This porch is a.s.suredly one of the most pure, light and perfect samples of gothic architecture.
During the revolution, the church, of Saint-Ouen was converted into a smithy. Afterwards they here celebrated the decadary feasts, promulgated laws, p.r.o.nounced marriages, and even gave a great breakfast to the conscripts of the _year VII_, the first who went under that denomination. At last it was restored to its primitive use, the only one worthy of it, for we may say of Saint-Ouen: _Hic vere est domus Dei_.
The ancient abbey-house of Saint-Ouen was demolished, in 1816. So many historical recollections were attached to the existence of this edifice, that its loss is much regretted by the friends of the arts. This mansion was the ordinary place of abode of the kings of France, on their pa.s.sage through this town. Henry II, Charles IX, Henri III, Henry IV, Lewis XIII successively inhabited it. Henry IVth, resided there four months; it was from this house that he addressed to the aldermen of his good town of Rouen those words which will never be forgotten: _Mes amis, soyez-moi bans sujets, et je vous serai bon roi, el le meilleur roi que vous ayez jamais eu_.
In the public garden, formerly that of the monastery, and which lies to the north, east and south sides of the church, is a very curious construction, in the form of a tower, called the _Chambre aux Clercs_.
It is without doubt a fragment of one of the churches, which succeeded each other on this spot. It is situated at the north-east angle of the northern transept. Its architecture is of the XIth century. People have remarked, that it holds as much resemblance to the remains of a strong castle, as to a fragment of a religious edifice. The interior is divided into two stories, the second contains the works of the clock.
The meridian placed against the wall, to the north of the basin, is that which ornamented the ancient exchange. On the lower extremity of the obelisk, we remark a woman seated, representing Commerce. The figure of Time points to the solar line. In 1815, the medallion of Lewis XVth was replaced, which had been taken away in 1792. This monument is by Paul Slodtz, a statuary of the last century.
[Footnote 15: Dibdin's _Bibliographical, antiquarian and picturesque tour in France and Germany_; London, Payne and co. 1821, royal 8vo, vol.
1.]
SAINT-MACLOU.
In the year 1228, this parish was situated without the walls of the town. In that year, Geoffroy de Capreville granted a portion of ground belonging to himself, and situated in the parish of Saint-Maclou, _without_ the town. At that time the church of Saint-Maclou was only a chapel, of which the construction was not very remarkable. About the middle of the XVth century, the erection of the present edifice was commenced. In the year 1511, the works were far advanced, the platform which was to support the steeple having been already built.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Saint-Maclou]