Part 24 (1/2)

”the heart of Paris in 1948”: Lionel Abel, The Intellectual Follies: A Memoir of the Literary Venture in New York and Paris The Intellectual Follies: A Memoir of the Literary Venture in New York and Paris (NY: Norton, 1984): 162, 169. (NY: Norton, 1984): 162, 169.

”Everyone came to Paris”: Art Buchwald, I'll Always Have Paris: A Memoir I'll Always Have Paris: A Memoir (NY: Putnam's Sons, 1996): 105. (NY: Putnam's Sons, 1996): 105.

”JC was the only one”: Jack Thomas, ”JC: Still Cooking,” Boston Globe Boston Globe (March 6, 1997): E4. (March 6, 1997): E4.

”holiday cooking disaster”: Susan Goodman, ”Penthouse Potluck,” Modern Maturity Modern Maturity (Nov./Dec, 1996): 34. (Nov./Dec, 1996): 34.

”an adventure in the exercise”: White, In Search of History In Search of History, 204, 274.

”We arrived at the Golden Age”: Art Buchwald, ”To Be Young and in Love in Paris,” New York Times New York Times (Aug. 25, 1996): 25. (Aug. 25, 1996): 25.

”wedding party”: White, In Search of History In Search of History, 264.

”The USIS was kind of a stepchild”: Foreign Service Spouse Oral History, ”An Interview with JC” (Nov. 7, 1991): 16.

”to restore”: Peter Farb and George Armelagos, Consuming Pa.s.sions: The Anthropology of Eating Consuming Pa.s.sions: The Anthropology of Eating (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1980): 244. (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1980): 244.

”The artistic integrity of the French”: Edith Wharton, French Ways and Their Meaning French Ways and Their Meaning (NY: D. Appleton, 1919): 235. (NY: D. Appleton, 1919): 235.

”subtlety of thought and manner”: Farb and Armelagos, Consuming Pa.s.sions Consuming Pa.s.sions, 34.

”I would have been”: Roberta Wallace Coffey, ”Their Recipe for Love,” McCall's McCall's 116 (Nov. 1988): 98. In her datebook, JC lists among her medicines a contraceptive jelly. 116 (Nov. 1988): 98. In her datebook, JC lists among her medicines a contraceptive jelly.

”the national pastime”: NRF, Literary Cafes of Paris Literary Cafes of Paris (Wash. DC: Starrhill, 1989): 16. (Wash. DC: Starrhill, 1989): 16.

”When the two of them”: Jack Hemingway, Misadventures of a Fly Fisherman: My Life With and Without Papa Misadventures of a Fly Fisherman: My Life With and Without Papa (NY: McGraw-Hill, 1986): 24748. Photograph of wedding party, including JC, page 150. (NY: McGraw-Hill, 1986): 24748. Photograph of wedding party, including JC, page 150.

CHAPTER 11.

CORDON BLEU (19491952) Unpublished Sources Interviews: JC, DC 4/30/93, 3/9/94, 2/2/96, and 1/10/97, LB 7/12/92, Helen Kirkpatrick [Milbank] 9/19/95, Francis Myer Brennan 10/7/93 and 9/23/94, Janou Walcutt 2/3/95, Helene Baltrusaitis 7/28/93, Rosemary Manell 4/30/93, Debby and Fisher Howe 9/28/94, Louise Vincent 7/18/95, Ailene Martin Berrard 5/8/94, Susy Davidson 2/25/94, Harriet Healy 4/5/94, Gay Bradley Wright 2/5/96, Elizabeth Heppner [McIntosh] 11/3/93, Elizabeth (Betty) Kubler 9/26/94, Anne Hastings (granddaughter of Madame Saint-Ange) 9/30/94, Lizabeth Nicol 8/3/94. Philadelphia Cousins 3/31/95, Suzanne Patterson 5/24/93, Mark DeVoto 12/14/94. Karen Walker interview with Elisabeth Bra.s.sart 2/9/95 and Darthea Speyer 1/31/97.

Correspondence: Shakurra Amatulla to NRF, 7/7/96; JC to editor of Life International Life International, 12/18/51 (on poor administration of Cordon Bleu); LB to JC, 10/3/82 (courtesy Peter k.u.mp); Joseph C. Sloane to NRF, 1/13/95 and 7/19/95; Catharine (Kitty) Carton Smith to NRF, 1/31/95; JC to Jeffrey Meyers, 10/4/84; Helen Milbank to JC, 10/4/82 (courtesy Peter k.u.mp).

Archives: Schlesinger: Schlesinger: PC letter-diary to CC, 195053; correspondence JC, SB, LB, AD, FC, Madame Bra.s.sart (3/28/51), Max Bugnard, Betty and George Kubler; JC, ”L'Histoire de la Chef Francaise” (2-page typescript MS); typescript menus of ”French cooking school;” copies PC letter-diary to CC, 195053; correspondence JC, SB, LB, AD, FC, Madame Bra.s.sart (3/28/51), Max Bugnard, Betty and George Kubler; JC, ”L'Histoire de la Chef Francaise” (2-page typescript MS); typescript menus of ”French cooking school;” copies Emba.s.sy News; Emba.s.sy News; ”History of Our Relations with Ives Washburn,” 12/30/52; Beck and Bertholle ma.n.u.scripts; transcript of Foreign Service Spouse Oral History, 11/7/91. ”History of Our Relations with Ives Washburn,” 12/30/52; Beck and Bertholle ma.n.u.scripts; transcript of Foreign Service Spouse Oral History, 11/7/91. Cordon Bleu, Paris: Cordon Bleu, Paris: records and publications records and publications (Le Cordon Bleu Revue Ill.u.s.tree de Cuisine Pratique et des Arts Menagers (Le Cordon Bleu Revue Ill.u.s.tree de Cuisine Pratique et des Arts Menagers, vols. 16, 26, 37). Private: Private: datebooks of JC and PC, 194853; JC/PC vacation correspondence; AD, ”Memoir About Julia,” 10/16/88 (courtesy Mark DeVoto); Peter k.u.mp video of Bramafam and Simone Beck. datebooks of JC and PC, 194853; JC/PC vacation correspondence; AD, ”Memoir About Julia,” 10/16/88 (courtesy Mark DeVoto); Peter k.u.mp video of Bramafam and Simone Beck. Beinecke: Beinecke: correspondence PC and Richard E. Myers. correspondence PC and Richard E. Myers.

Published Sources ”a horrifying ch.o.r.e”: JC, From JC's Kitchen From JC's Kitchen, 153. The first account of the fish pounding for mousse, which she mailed to ”Bien Maitre” Bugnard: JC, ”It Took 11 GIs, Girl to Make Fish Cakes,” Boston Globe Boston Globe (Feb. 13, 1964): clipping. (Feb. 13, 1964): clipping.

”you would have to pa.s.s”: JC, ”Cooking with Julia: A Soulful Chicken Soup,” Food & Wine Food & Wine (Jan. 1995): 30. (Jan. 1995): 30.

”delicately known as”: Frances Levison, ”First, Peel an Eel,” Life International Life International (Dec. 13, 1964): 83. (Dec. 13, 1964): 83.

”first-cla.s.s feasting”: Catharine Reynolds, ”Paris Journal: One Hundred Years of Le Cordon Bleu,” Gourmet Gourmet (Jan. 1995): 53. (Jan. 1995): 53.

”One of the reasons I married her”: Grey Stevens, ”Ivan and Dorothy,” San Francisco Sunday Examiner & Chronicle San Francisco Sunday Examiner & Chronicle (Oct. 11, 1981): 32. (Oct. 11, 1981): 32.

”one of the great encounters”: Michael James, ”Simca Beck-Master of The Art of French Cooking; An Affectionate Portrait,” Food & Wine Food & Wine (June 1987): 108. (June 1987): 108.

”a tall blonde”: JC, ”Introduction” to SB with Suzanne Patterson, Food & Friends: Recipes and Memories from Simca's Cuisine Food & Friends: Recipes and Memories from Simca's Cuisine (NY: Viking, 1991). (NY: Viking, 1991).

”instant chef”: John L. Hess and Karen Hess, The Taste of America The Taste of America (NY: Grossman, 1977): 191. (NY: Grossman, 1977): 191.

”I had there”: Julian Street, Where Paris Dines Where Paris Dines (NY: Doubleday, 1929): 51. (NY: Doubleday, 1929): 51.

CHAPTER 12.

Ma.r.s.eILLES (19531954) Unpublished Sources Interviews: JC, Rosemary Manell 4/30/93, John L. Moore 5/20/94, Robert W. Duemling 1/11/95, Fisher and Debby Howe 9/28/94, Mark DeVoto 12/14/95, Paul Sheeline 2/26/94, Elizabeth (Betty) Kubler 9/26/94, Philip and Mary Hyman 6/18/95.

Correspondence: Nancy [White] Hector to NRF, 11/5/96; J. Roland Jacobs to NRF, 4/3/95; Howard B. Crotinger to NRF, 2/14/95 and 3/14/95; E. Lee Fairley to NRF, 5/11/93 and 6/5/95; Joseph C. Sloane to NRF, 11/13/95; JC to Paulette Chaix, 4/67; JC to Eleanor and Basil Summers, 2/14/54; AD to JC, 9/25/82 (courtesy Peter k.u.mp); Nancy [White] Hector to NRF, 11/5/96.

Archives: Private: Private: JC and PC datebooks and address books, 1953, 1954, 1955; AD, ”Memoir About Julia,” 10/16/88 (courtesy Mark DeVoto); JC to DC correspondence (courtesy DC); 1950s JC and PC datebooks and address books, 1953, 1954, 1955; AD, ”Memoir About Julia,” 10/16/88 (courtesy Mark DeVoto); JC to DC correspondence (courtesy DC); 1950s Michelin Guides Michelin Guides (courtesy Philip and Mary Hyman). (courtesy Philip and Mary Hyman). Schlesinger: Schlesinger: PC letter-diary to CC, 195355; correspondence JC, DC, SB, LB, MFKF, Katy Gates, and Paul Sheeline; Houghton Mifflin contracts and correspondence. PC letter-diary to CC, 195355; correspondence JC, DC, SB, LB, MFKF, Katy Gates, and Paul Sheeline; Houghton Mifflin contracts and correspondence.

Published Sources ”moved through Europe”: Theodore H. White, In Search of History: A Personal Adventure In Search of History: A Personal Adventure (London: Cape, 1979): 356. (London: Cape, 1979): 356.

”Most people were scared”: Foreign Service Spouse Oral History, ”An Interview with JC” (Nov. 7, 1991): 8.

”all copy from one another”: JC was using Escoffier's 4th (1948) edition, Simca his 1900. For an English edition, see Auguste Escoffier, The Escoffier Cookbook The Escoffier Cookbook (NY: Crown, 1969). (NY: Crown, 1969).

”an imperial look in her eye”: JC, From JC's Kitchen From JC's Kitchen (NY: Knopf, 1975): 20. (NY: Knopf, 1975): 20.

”To choose bouillabaisse”: Raymond Oliver, Gastronomy of France Gastronomy of France, trans. Claude Durrell (Cleveland: World Publis.h.i.+ng, 1967): 163.

”Populist ... an honorable word”: Arthur M. Schlesinger, Jr., ”The Citizen,” Four Portraits and One Subject: Bernard DeVoto Four Portraits and One Subject: Bernard DeVoto (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1963): 41. (Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1963): 41.

CHAPTER 13.

A LITTLE TOWN IN GERMANY (19541956) Unpublished Sources Interviews: JC, LB 7/12/92, Rosemary Manell 4/30/93, John L. Moore 5/20/94, Mark DeVoto 12/14/94.

Correspondence: Lyne S. Few to NRF, 4/20/95; E. Lee Fairley to NRF, 5/11/95 and 6/5/95; Freifrau Dorothea von Stetten to NRF, 7/28/96 and 9/5/96; Fitz Hier to NRF, 8/7/96; Martha Culbertson to NRF, 3/18/95; James M. McDonald to NRF, 5/10/96 and 6/10/96.

Archives: CIA, U.S. Depts. of State and Justice (latter still pending), and USIA (”file routinely destroyed in January 1986,” letter to NRF, 6/7/93). Schlesinger: Schlesinger: PC letter-diary to CC (their only surviving correspondence of the Bonn years is the period from 6/56 through 10/56); correspondence JC, AD, SB, LB, Jane Foster (10/15/55), Hadley Mowrer. PC letter-diary to CC (their only surviving correspondence of the Bonn years is the period from 6/56 through 10/56); correspondence JC, AD, SB, LB, Jane Foster (10/15/55), Hadley Mowrer. Private: Private: JC and PC 195456 datebooks, PC to JC correspondence April 1955; AD, ”Memoir About Julia,” 10/16/88 (courtesy Mark DeVoto). JC and PC 195456 datebooks, PC to JC correspondence April 1955; AD, ”Memoir About Julia,” 10/16/88 (courtesy Mark DeVoto). Smith College: Smith College: JC, transcript of Smith Oral History (10/16/72): JC, transcript of Smith Oral History (10/16/72): 2521. Beinecke: 2521. Beinecke: correspondence PC and Richard Myers. correspondence PC and Richard Myers.

Published Sources ”snuggled along the curve”: Theodore H. White at Large: The Best of His Magazine Writing 19391986 Theodore H. White at Large: The Best of His Magazine Writing 19391986, ed. Edward T. Thompson (NY: Pantheon, 1992): 188. White's comparison between Bonn and Cambridge, MA: In Search of History: A Personal Adventure In Search of History: A Personal Adventure (London: Cape, 1979): 314. (London: Cape, 1979): 314.