Part 8 (2/2)

Sunchokes, Carrots, and Parsnips with Bacon The sunchoke, also known as the Jerusalem artichoke or earth apple, is indigenous to North America and was cultivated first by Native Americans. In this recipe they are roasted along with carrots and parsnips and tossed with an apple cider vinaigrette. There's lots of flexibility here: you can prepare this dish with any plentiful local root vegetable you like, such as turnip, rutabaga, salsify, baby beet, or potato. Delicious.

2 pounds sunchokes, scrubbed well and cut into 1-inch wedges1 pound carrots, cut into 2-inch diagonal pieces1 pound parsnips, cut into 2-inch diagonal pieces cup olive oil teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper4 ounces sliced bacon, cut into -inch pieces (about 2/3 cup)6 shallots, thinly sliced (about 2/3 cup)1 teaspoon minced garlic2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley leaves teaspoon sugar cup cider vinegar 1. Preheat the oven to 500F. Preheat the oven to 500F.

2. In a medium bowl, combine the sunchokes, carrots, parsnips, cup of the olive oil, the salt, and the pepper. Transfer the vegetables to a rimmed baking sheet and roast in the oven for 20 minutes, until lightly caramelized and tender, stirring once midway through cooking. In a medium bowl, combine the sunchokes, carrots, parsnips, cup of the olive oil, the salt, and the pepper. Transfer the vegetables to a rimmed baking sheet and roast in the oven for 20 minutes, until lightly caramelized and tender, stirring once midway through cooking.

3. While the vegetables are roasting, place the bacon in a small saute pan over medium-high heat and cook for 2 minutes. Add the shallots, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 5 more minutes, or until the bacon fat is rendered and the shallots are lightly caramelized. Drain, discarding all but 1 tablespoon of the fat from the pan. While the vegetables are roasting, place the bacon in a small saute pan over medium-high heat and cook for 2 minutes. Add the shallots, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 5 more minutes, or until the bacon fat is rendered and the shallots are lightly caramelized. Drain, discarding all but 1 tablespoon of the fat from the pan.

4. Transfer the bacon/shallot mixture to a medium mixing bowl. Add the garlic, parsley, and sugar, and whisk to combine. Whisk in the vinegar. Slowly whisk in the remaining cup olive oil, and set aside. Transfer the bacon/shallot mixture to a medium mixing bowl. Add the garlic, parsley, and sugar, and whisk to combine. Whisk in the vinegar. Slowly whisk in the remaining cup olive oil, and set aside.

5. Transfer the roasted vegetables to the mixing bowl, and toss with the vinaigrette to combine. Serve warm. Transfer the roasted vegetables to the mixing bowl, and toss with the vinaigrette to combine. Serve warm.

4 to 6 servings

Beet ”Caviar”

Beets are one of my favorite root vegetables. They come in a wonderful array of colors and sizes, from golden yellow to candy-stripe. The whole plant can be utilized: the tops can be cooked just like any other hearty green and the beet root can be eaten raw, roasted, boiled, or shredded. In this recipe the texture of finely chopped beets combined with poppy seeds is reminiscent of caviar. The ”caviar” is served over baby greens here, but it would also be a nice topping for canapes served on crostini, garnished with a dollop of creme fraiche.

1 pound beets, roasted until tender (see chapter ”Roots, Shoots, Tubers, and Bulbs”) and peeled cup freshly squeezed orange juice2 tablespoons white wine vinegar2 tablespoons minced shallot2 tablespoons poppy seeds1 teaspoon grated orange zest1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground white pepper10 ounces baby arugula, rinsed and spun dry3 tablespoons Chive Oil (chapter ”The Herb Garden”), for serving 1. Using a mandoline, slice the beets to 1/8-inch thickness. Then cut the beets into a fine brunoise (very fine dice, about 1/8 inch square). Set aside. Using a mandoline, slice the beets to 1/8-inch thickness. Then cut the beets into a fine brunoise (very fine dice, about 1/8 inch square). Set aside.

2. Combine the orange juice, white wine vinegar, shallot, poppy seeds, orange zest, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Combine the orange juice, white wine vinegar, shallot, poppy seeds, orange zest, salt, and pepper in a small bowl.

3. In a medium bowl, combine the beets with two-thirds of the vinaigrette. In a separate bowl, toss the arugula with the remaining vinaigrette. In a medium bowl, combine the beets with two-thirds of the vinaigrette. In a separate bowl, toss the arugula with the remaining vinaigrette.

4. Divide the arugula evenly among six plates. Then mound the beets on top of the greens. Drizzle each plate with Chive Oil, and serve immediately. Divide the arugula evenly among six plates. Then mound the beets on top of the greens. Drizzle each plate with Chive Oil, and serve immediately.

Note: The beets can be roasted 1 day in advance.

6 servings

Turnip and Radish Slaw with Jumbo Lump Crabmeat and Chive Oil Thinly sliced turnips and radishes are lightly tossed with a champagne vinaigrette, then topped with creamy, succulent crabmeat and drizzled with Chive Oil. Elegant, and simply marvelous.

1 tablespoon minced shallot1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh chives2 teaspoons Dijon mustard2 teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon leaves2 teaspoons chopped fresh chervil leaves2 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley leaves1 teaspoon chopped drained nonpareil capers1 teaspoon chopped cornichon1/3 cup champagne vinegar cup grapeseed oilSalt, to tasteFreshly ground white pepper, to taste1 turnip (about the size of a baseball), peeled and julienned1 small bunch radishes (about 6), julienned cup mayonnaise, store-bought or homemade (see chapter ”Thistles, Stalks, and Pods”)1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper1 pound jumbo lump crabmeat, picked over for sh.e.l.ls and cartilage1 recipe Chive Oil (chapter ”The Herb Garden”)Chive blossoms, for garnish (optional) 1. In a small bowl, combine the shallot, chives, mustard, tarragon, chervil, parsley, capers, cornichon, vinegar, and grapeseed oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. In a small bowl, combine the shallot, chives, mustard, tarragon, chervil, parsley, capers, cornichon, vinegar, and grapeseed oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

2. In a medium mixing bowl, toss cup of the vinaigrette with the turnip and radishes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. In a medium mixing bowl, toss cup of the vinaigrette with the turnip and radishes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

3. Combine the mayonnaise, lemon juice, and cayenne in a medium bowl. Add cup of the vinaigrette and mix well. Add the crabmeat and toss to coat. Combine the mayonnaise, lemon juice, and cayenne in a medium bowl. Add cup of the vinaigrette and mix well. Add the crabmeat and toss to coat.

4. To serve, divide the turnip-radish slaw among four to six chilled plates. Spoon the crabmeat on the top of the slaw, trying to keep the crabmeat lumps as intact as possible. Drizzle the Chive Oil around each plate, and garnish with chive blossoms if desired. To serve, divide the turnip-radish slaw among four to six chilled plates. Spoon the crabmeat on the top of the slaw, trying to keep the crabmeat lumps as intact as possible. Drizzle the Chive Oil around each plate, and garnish with chive blossoms if desired.

4 to 6 servings

Fresh Horseradish Cream Sauce Everybody will love eating this spooned over a beef rib roast or spread on a sandwich, but making it is not for the meek. I'm tellin' ya, grating fresh horseradish is like standing over a bowl of wasabi and breathing in. You will get equally good results either grating by hand on the side of a cheese grater or, with less tears, using the fine grater attachment on your food processor.

3 cups heavy cream1 cups finely grated fresh horseradish (from about 8 ounces horseradish root)6 tablespoons finely chopped shallot4 teaspoons minced garlic4 teaspoons Dijon mustard2 teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground white or black pepper (optional) 1. Combine all of the ingredients in a medium saucepan, and bring to a boil. Then reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 12 minutes. Combine all of the ingredients in a medium saucepan, and bring to a boil. Then reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 12 minutes.

2. Remove from the heat and serve warm. (The sauce can be refrigerated and served cold on a sandwich.) The sauce will keep, refrigerated in an airtight, nonreactive container, for up to 2 weeks. Remove from the heat and serve warm. (The sauce can be refrigerated and served cold on a sandwich.) The sauce will keep, refrigerated in an airtight, nonreactive container, for up to 2 weeks.

2 cups

Mashed Rutabaga If you're in the mood for a mash but want something other than the standard potato variation, why not try the frequently forgotten rutabaga? Rutabaga has a slightly bitter, turnip-like flavor that (also like turnips) sweetens once cooked. We enjoyed this roughly mashed so that some lumps still remained, but go ahead and mash according to your liking.

5 pounds rutabaga, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks1 cup heavy cream1 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, diced2 tablespoons chopped fresh chivesSalt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1. Fill a large pot with salted water, and add the rutabaga. Make sure there is enough water to cover the rutabaga by at least an inch. Bring to a rolling boil. Then reduce the heat to a simmer, cover the pot, and simmer until the rutabaga is completely cooked through and very tender, 30 to 35 minutes. Fill a large pot with salted water, and add the rutabaga. Make sure there is enough water to cover the rutabaga by at least an inch. Bring to a rolling boil. Then reduce the heat to a simmer, cover the pot, and simmer until the rutabaga is completely cooked through and very tender, 30 to 35 minutes.

2. During the last 5 minutes that the rutabaga is cooking, combine the heavy cream and thyme in a small saucepan and place over medium heat. Cook until the mixture is just warmed through. Remove from the heat and set aside. During the last 5 minutes that the rutabaga is cooking, combine the heavy cream and thyme in a small saucepan and place over medium heat. Cook until the mixture is just warmed through. Remove from the heat and set aside.

3. Drain the rutabaga in a colander, discarding the cooking liquid. Return the rutabaga to the pot. Begin mas.h.i.+ng the rutabaga with a hand masher, adding the warmed cream little by little. Add the b.u.t.ter and continue mas.h.i.+ng until is completely melted and mixed through. Add the chives and fold them into the mashed rutabaga. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve hot. Drain the rutabaga in a colander, discarding the cooking liquid. Return the rutabaga to the pot. Begin mas.h.i.+ng the rutabaga with a hand masher, adding the warmed cream little by little. Add the b.u.t.ter and continue mas.h.i.+ng until is completely melted and mixed through. Add the chives and fold them into the mashed rutabaga. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve hot.

4 to 6 servings

Sweet Potato Ravioli with Sage Brown b.u.t.ter The sweet potato filling here is the perfect vehicle for the luscious nutty browned b.u.t.ter. Top it all with crispy sage, and you've got a textural party going on. The key to getting the pasta right lies all in the kneading: follow the instructions and knead the dough for 10 solid minutes. Doing so will activate the gluten in the dough for the perfect toothsome texture.

Olive oil, for drizzling1 pound (2 small or 1 very large) sweet potatoes2 tablespoons mascarpone cheeseSalt and freshly ground white pepper cup cake flour cup all-purpose flour2 eggs2 tablespoons olive oilWater, as needed8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into large uniform chunks16 fresh sage leaves 1. Preheat the oven to 350F. Preheat the oven to 350F.

2. Drizzle olive oil lightly over the sweet potatoes and rub to coat them. Place the potatoes on a baking sheet and bake, turning them over midway through, until tender, about 1 hour. Remove from the oven and set aside until cool enough to handle. Drizzle olive oil lightly over the sweet potatoes and rub to coat them. Place the potatoes on a baking sheet and bake, turning them over midway through, until tender, about 1 hour. Remove from the oven and set aside until cool enough to handle.

3. Peel the potatoes and discard the skin. Place the sweet potato flesh in a medium mixing bowl, and mash with a fork or the back of a spoon until smooth. Add the mascarpone cheese, and using a wooden spoon, mix until you can no longer see chunks of the mascarpone. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and set aside until ready to use. Peel the potatoes and discard the skin. Place the sweet potato flesh in a medium mixing bowl, and mash with a fork or the back of a spoon until smooth. Add the mascarpone cheese, and using a wooden spoon, mix until you can no longer see chunks of the mascarpone. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and set aside until ready to use.

4. Make the ravioli dough: Combine the cake flour and all-purpose flour in a bowl, and whisk them together. Form a small well in the mixture, add the eggs and olive oil to the well, and gradually combine until the dough comes together. If the dough seems a little dry, add very small amounts of water at a time until the dough seems smooth and supple and will come together into a smooth ball. Transfer the dough to a clean work surface, and knead it for at least 10 minutes. Form the dough into a ball and wrap it well with plastic wrap. Set it aside to rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes, or refrigerate up to overnight. (Return to room temperature before rolling out.) Make the ravioli dough: Combine the cake flour and all-purpose flour in a bowl, and whisk them together. Form a small well in the mixture, add the eggs and olive oil to the well, and gradually combine until the dough comes together. If the dough seems a little dry, add very small amounts of water at a time until the dough seems smooth and supple and will come together into a smooth ball. Transfer the dough to a clean work surface, and knead it for at least 10 minutes. Form the dough into a ball and wrap it well with plastic wrap. Set it aside to rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes, or refrigerate up to overnight. (Return to room temperature before rolling out.) 5. Cut the dough into 4 portions. Working with one portion at a time, flatten the dough into a disk with the palm of your hand. Beginning with the widest setting on a pasta machine, roll the dough through the machine, folding the pasta into thirds after each ”run.” Run it through about two times at each setting, decreasing the settings until you get to the thinnest setting, at which point you can just run the pasta through once. Repeat with the remaining portions of dough. You should have 4 long sheets of very thin pasta dough. Cut the dough into 4 portions. Working with one portion at a time, flatten the dough into a disk with the palm of your hand. Beginning with the widest setting on a pasta machine, roll the dough through the machine, folding the pasta into thirds after each ”run.” Run it through about two times at each setting, decreasing the settings until you get to the thinnest setting, at which point you can just run the pasta through once. Repeat with the remaining portions of dough. You should have 4 long sheets of very thin pasta dough.

6. Form the ravioli by s.p.a.cing small mounds of the sweet potato filling (about 1 teaspoon each) onto one of the pasta sheets in rows, leaving about an inch of s.p.a.ce between the mounds and around the sides for sealing. Run a wet finger around the edges of the filling mounds, and then top with one of the unfilled pasta sheets. Ease the pasta down around the mounds, pressing down around the filling so that each ravioli is sealed. Cut the ravioli out with a round cookie cutter (about 2 inches) or with a rolling pasta cutter. Crimp the edges with the tines of a fork, if desired, to further ensure that the ravioli are sealed. Repeat until you have used up all of the filling and pasta. Form the ravioli by s.p.a.cing small mounds of the sweet potato filling (about 1 teaspoon each) onto one of the pasta sheets in rows, leaving about an inch of s.p.a.ce between the mounds and around the sides for sealing. Run a wet finger around the edges of the filling mounds, and then top with one of the unfilled pasta sheets. Ease the pasta down around the mounds, pressing down around the filling so that each ravioli is sealed. Cut the ravioli out with a round cookie cutter (about 2 inches) or with a rolling pasta cutter. Crimp the edges with the tines of a fork, if desired, to further ensure that the ravioli are sealed. Repeat until you have used up all of the filling and pasta.

7. Fill a large pot with salted water and bring it to a boil. Place the ravioli in the boiling water (in batches, if necessary) and cook until al dente, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the ravioli with a slotted spoon and place them on a paper towellined plate to drain. Cover lightly with a towel to keep warm. Fill a large pot with salted water and bring it to a boil. Place the ravioli in the boiling water (in batches, if necessary) and cook until al dente, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the ravioli with a slotted spoon and place them on a paper towellined plate to drain. Cover lightly with a towel to keep warm.

8. Heat a saute pan over medium-high heat, and when it is hot, add the b.u.t.ter and let it melt in one spot (do not move the pan). When the b.u.t.ter has begun to brown around the edges and smells nutty, pick up the saute pan and swirl it to keep the melted b.u.t.ter from burning and to melt the remaining b.u.t.ter. Add the sage leaves and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook until the leaves are crispy, 1 to 2 minutes. Season with salt and white pepper to taste. Heat a saute pan over medium-high heat, and when it is hot, add the b.u.t.ter and let it melt in one spot (do not move the pan). When the b.u.t.ter has begun to brown around the edges and smells nutty, pick up the saute pan and swirl it to keep the melted b.u.t.ter from burning and to melt the remaining b.u.t.ter. Add the sage leaves and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook until the leaves are crispy, 1 to 2 minutes. Season with salt and white pepper to taste.

9. Divide the ravioli among four to six shallow bowls or plates. Drizzle the brown b.u.t.ter on top, and garnish with the crispy sage leaves. Serve immediately. Divide the ravioli among four to six shallow bowls or plates. Drizzle the brown b.u.t.ter on top, and garnish with the crispy sage leaves. Serve immediately.

40 raviolis, 4 to 6 servings

Winter Fruits

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