Part 1 (1/2)

Farm to Fork.

by Emeril Laga.s.se.

Introduction.

I HAVE HAD A CONNECTION WITH THE SOIL SINCE I WAS A YOUNG BOY.

This was kindled long ago, when Dad and I would visit my Uncle Oliver's farm in Westport, Ma.s.sachusetts. I really looked up to Uncle Oliver, who made his living by growing and baling hay and raising hogs, chickens, goats, sheep, as well as growing fruits and vegetables. I remember being very happy walking the strawberry rows in spring-Uncle Oliver allowed me to pick to my heart's content. I was also encouraged to help in the harvesting of beans, peppers, zucchini, cuc.u.mbers-you name it-and then looked forward to every fall for the arrival of cole crops, potatoes, and the magic of pumpkins.

This must have inspired Dad, too, because not much later he converted a good acre-plus of our backyard in Fall River into a vegetable garden, which we tended together. What we didn't eat or share with friends and family was put into my little red wagon and peddled around the neighborhood, particularly to Gene's Market, just a couple blocks from home.

As I got older, I began to take part in the milking of cows and goats and collecting eggs from the chicken coop. It was this experience that really taught me how a farm works. I made the connection between the food we buy at the market and the people who grow it, and that really stuck with me. Once I became a chef and began honing my craft, I knew the most important thing was to use the freshest and the best ingredients I could find. I also recognized that those ingredients, whether they be seafood, meat, poultry, or produce, should be grown and harvested locally.

A lesson from an early age of what makes great food.

By 1983, when I came to Louisiana and was given a chance to make a name for myself at Commander's Palace in New Orleans, local ingredients were what I relied upon and how I became inspired. It was during those early years as a chef that I, along with a few other chefs and a great farmer, started a farm co-op in nearby Mississippi. The result was fresh produce and herbs straight from the farm and the beginning of ”hog Wednesdays.” On that day, our farmer would bring freshly slaughtered pigs to the restaurant, and we used every part in every which way-a tradition that remains at Emeril's Restaurant in New Orleans to this day. We took great pride in the fact that everything we made was completely from scratch: from goat cheese to ice cream, from Worcesters.h.i.+re sauce to house-cured bacon. And twenty years later, the focus remains the same for me: fresh quality ingredients make for good food and an exceptional quality of life. My pa.s.sion for fresh farm-grown ingredients continues to grow stronger. All of the chefs who work in each of my restaurants around the country carry on the tradition of using the freshest ingredients and of maintaining long-lasting connections with local farmers. It is this principle that has inspired the recipes you'll find in these pages: recipes that rely on simple techniques to really allow the integrity of the food to s.h.i.+ne through.

”Buy fresh, Buy local” is a slogan that both my restaurants and my family try to live by-and a very important message that I feel compelled to pa.s.s along to folks as I encounter them in my travels each day. I try to instill this in my kids by bringing them with me when I shop for family meals. Not only is it fun for them to help Dad pick out the produce, but they also get a lesson in forging relations.h.i.+ps with the people who work hard to provide it. It is also the perfect time to speak to them about why it's important to . . .

Support your local farmer's markets.

With the constraints placed on farmers in this country, we really do owe it to ourselves and to them to give our support. If you can, try to find farmers who take the harder road and grow organically-your family's health, not to mention a better ecosystem and a lighter carbon footprint, will be your reward. With more than 4,500 farmer's markets nationwide, and more popping up every day, there is really no reason not to support our local markets. The vendors are able to showcase the very best of what is in season locally-small dairies sell milk, cream, and cheese from cows living perhaps only a few miles away, and farmers bring in produce that heralds the arrival of each season. How exciting it is to see these products on our tables, picked at the peak of ripeness and full of nutrients and vitality. It doesn't get much better than this. An added bonus is that there is no excess packaging to recycle, and no annoying little stickers to pry off your fragile produce. Also, small farmers often grow different and unusual, often heirloom, varieties of produce that many of us have not seen in our lifetimes but which probably graced the tables of the family that went before us.

Our local farmer's markets often support not only farmers but also the men and women who brave the local waters to bring us freshly caught fish, shrimp, crabs, oysters, and a host of other treasures. There has been much in the news lately (but not nearly enough) about the hard times these folks are having competing with the low prices of seafood imported from China and other countries. I know firsthand that Gulf Coast shrimpers are really hurting in this regard; the prices that they are offered at the docks don't even cover their operating costs. Families who have been fis.h.i.+ng and shrimping for generations are now being forced to find different livelihoods. If we want to continue to enjoy the wonderful seafood that these people work hard to bring to us, then we must make different choices about where we purchase our seafood. Simple as that.

The way I see it, it's returning to a way of life that used to be taken for granted. Buy locally and you are able to enjoy the benefits that come along with it. Plant a small garden in your backyard, or even just an herb garden in pots on a windowsill. Either way, talk about a great way to spend time with the family! And hey, finicky children are much more likely to try a new vegetable if they've taken part in growing it. The wonder of planting a seedling, watching it grow, and harvesting it to eat is inexplicable. I can't think of a better way to show a child the value of fresh food from the table.

Some of us living in urban environments may not feel we have the opportunities for gardening and farming at home, and may feel unconnected to the sources of our food. But urban farms are popping up in the most unlikely places, such as the still struggling post-Katrina 9th ward of New Orleans. Previously blighted properties are now hosting thriving gardens, where abandoned car tires find new life as containers for vertical potato gardening. (Yes, I've seen it!) New Orleans is home to many such urban farms these days, and these projects not only bring life into neglected parts of town but also enrich the local communities by giving neighbors a reason to come together and work toward a common goal. I know this is happening across the nation, and the message I'm getting to is this: there is a limit only if we allow ourselves to imagine one.

I have been inspired by seeing folks tackle this challenge head-on in unique ways. For instance, the Edible Schoolyard project founded in California by Alice Waters, the head of the buy local, eat fresh movement, has had a tremendous impact on the children involved as well as on the local community in which the project was founded. I was so impressed by this project that I have worked with Alice and some other folks in order to bring an edible schoolyard to one of our schools in New Orleans. As a result, children are eating better, more healthful meals, and have a genuine respect for Mother Earth and the hard work required to put food on the table. They are learning about nutrition, gardening, and the impact of farming on our environment. All this, plus they're gaining the self-esteem that comes from self-reliance. Visiting these children and seeing what they are learning in the garden, and the smiles on their faces after a day spent in their teaching kitchen, is some very powerful medicine, let me tell you. The pride in what they've accomplished goes farther than the schoolyard, too. The surrounding community comes together to help the children maintain the garden. Neighbors meet and greet and go home feeling that they've done something worthwhile with their time. It's a win-win situation. Just imagine the impact this could generate if we had more programs like this around the country.

And that's what I'm talking about, folks: a connection. It really can be about the choices we make. We can have more to say about what we eat. From the garden, to you, to the table. Go on, make some friends.

The Herb Garden

A Lesson in Herb Oils: Chive, Basil, Mint One of the best ways to preserve the abundance of fresh herbs from your garden is by making flavored oils. Herb oils can be enjoyed so many ways-drizzled over salads, vegetables, pastas, sandwiches, or grilled items, hot or cold or in between. Not only are they flavorful, but they also add dramatic color when drizzled on plates. If you want to kick it up, and I know you do, add half a clove of smashed garlic and 1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper to the blender with the other ingredients . . . a great dipping oil for chunks of rustic bread!

Basil Oil 3 cups water2 ounces fresh basil leaves (about 2 cups packed) cup canola, grapeseed, or other vegetable oil1/8 teaspoon salt 1. In a small bowl, combine 1 cup ice cubes with 1 cup of the water. Set it aside. In a small bowl, combine 1 cup ice cubes with 1 cup of the water. Set it aside.

2. Bring the remaining 2 cups water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the basil leaves all at once, stirring to make sure they are submerged, and cook for 10 seconds. Immediately transfer them, using a slotted spoon, to the ice bath. Once they have cooled, remove the basil leaves and set them on paper towels. Squeeze the paper towels gently but firmly in your hands to absorb as much liquid as possible, and set aside. Bring the remaining 2 cups water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the basil leaves all at once, stirring to make sure they are submerged, and cook for 10 seconds. Immediately transfer them, using a slotted spoon, to the ice bath. Once they have cooled, remove the basil leaves and set them on paper towels. Squeeze the paper towels gently but firmly in your hands to absorb as much liquid as possible, and set aside.

3. Pour the oil and salt into a blender, and mix on high speed. While the machine is running, add half the basil leaves and process briefly. Then add the remaining basil and puree it (doing this in batches prevents bruising the leaves and keeps the color intact). Transfer the basil oil to a small container, cover, and refrigerate for up to 1 week. (If you like, strain the oil through a fine-mesh sieve.) Pour the oil and salt into a blender, and mix on high speed. While the machine is running, add half the basil leaves and process briefly. Then add the remaining basil and puree it (doing this in batches prevents bruising the leaves and keeps the color intact). Transfer the basil oil to a small container, cover, and refrigerate for up to 1 week. (If you like, strain the oil through a fine-mesh sieve.) 1 cup

Chive Oil 4 cups water2 ounces (about 2 bunches) fresh chives, snipped to 3-inch lengths (2 cups) cup canola, grapeseed, or other vegetable oil1/8 teaspoon salt 1. In a small bowl, combine 1 cup ice cubes with 1 cup of the water. Set it aside. In a small bowl, combine 1 cup ice cubes with 1 cup of the water. Set it aside.

2. Bring the remaining 3 cups water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the chives all at once, stirring to make sure they are submerged, and cook for 10 seconds. Immediately transfer them, using a slotted spoon, to the ice bath. Once they have cooled, remove the chives and set them on paper towels. Squeeze the paper towels gently but firmly in your hands to absorb as much liquid as possible. Bring the remaining 3 cups water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the chives all at once, stirring to make sure they are submerged, and cook for 10 seconds. Immediately transfer them, using a slotted spoon, to the ice bath. Once they have cooled, remove the chives and set them on paper towels. Squeeze the paper towels gently but firmly in your hands to absorb as much liquid as possible.

3. Combine the chives, oil, and salt in a blender and mix on high speed for 1 to 2 minutes, until thoroughly combined. Transfer the Chive Oil to a small container, cover, and refrigerate for up to 1 week. (If you like, strain the Chive Oil through a fine-mesh sieve.) Combine the chives, oil, and salt in a blender and mix on high speed for 1 to 2 minutes, until thoroughly combined. Transfer the Chive Oil to a small container, cover, and refrigerate for up to 1 week. (If you like, strain the Chive Oil through a fine-mesh sieve.) 1 cup

Mint Oil 4 cups water2 ounces fresh mint leaves (about 2 cups packed) cup canola, grapeseed, or other vegetable oil1/8 teaspoon salt 1. In a small bowl, combine 1 cup ice cubes with 1 cup of the water. Set it aside. In a small bowl, combine 1 cup ice cubes with 1 cup of the water. Set it aside.

2. Bring the remaining 3 cups water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the mint leaves all at once, stirring to make sure they are submerged, and cook for 10 seconds. Immediately transfer them, using a slotted spoon, to the ice bath. Once they have cooled, remove the mint leaves and set them on paper towels. Squeeze the paper towels gently but firmly in your hands to absorb as much liquid as possible. Bring the remaining 3 cups water to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the mint leaves all at once, stirring to make sure they are submerged, and cook for 10 seconds. Immediately transfer them, using a slotted spoon, to the ice bath. Once they have cooled, remove the mint leaves and set them on paper towels. Squeeze the paper towels gently but firmly in your hands to absorb as much liquid as possible.

3. Combine the mint leaves, oil, and salt in a blender and mix on high speed for 1 to 2 minutes, until thoroughly combined. Transfer the mint oil to a small container, cover, and refrigerate for up to 1 week. (If you like, strain the mint oil through a fine-mesh sieve.) Combine the mint leaves, oil, and salt in a blender and mix on high speed for 1 to 2 minutes, until thoroughly combined. Transfer the mint oil to a small container, cover, and refrigerate for up to 1 week. (If you like, strain the mint oil through a fine-mesh sieve.) 1 cup

Fresh Mint Tea Is the garden overgrown with mint? No problem! This recipe is adapted from the traditional Moroccan mint tea, where green tea is used instead of black, but still with an abundance of fresh spearmint. It is enjoyed there throughout the day-so why not here too?

4 cups water1 cups loosely packed fresh spearmint leaves1/3 cup sugarTwo -inch-thick orange slices (do not peel)6 whole cloves2 orange pekoe tea bags 1. Bring the water to a boil in a saucepan. Bring the water to a boil in a saucepan.

2. In another saucepan, combine the spearmint leaves, sugar, orange slices, cloves, and tea bags. Carefully pour the boiling water over the tea mixture, and let it steep for 3 minutes. Stir to dissolve the sugar, and then strain the tea into a small warmed teapot or other serving vessel. Serve hot. In another saucepan, combine the spearmint leaves, sugar, orange slices, cloves, and tea bags. Carefully pour the boiling water over the tea mixture, and let it steep for 3 minutes. Stir to dissolve the sugar, and then strain the tea into a small warmed teapot or other serving vessel. Serve hot.

1 quart, 2 to 4 servings

Cheesy Herbed Popovers It's hard not to stare at the oven while these bake, and rise, and pop. The aroma alone will get 'em out of bed to come see the action. By no means do you want to open the oven until the popovers are finished. Don't worry-you won't ruin their gorgeous color. Leave them in until the last moment to be sure the inside is cooked.

4 tablespoons ( stick) b.u.t.ter, melted cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese4 eggs1 teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1 cups whole milk3 tablespoons heavy cream1 cup all-purpose flour2 tablespoons chopped mixed fresh herbs, such as parsley, thyme, rosemary, basil, or chivesAbout 2 ounces medium cheddar cheese, grated ( cup) or cut into 12 pieces 1. Preheat the oven to 450F. Preheat the oven to 450F.

2. Brush the cups of a standard 12-cup m.u.f.fin tin with some of the melted b.u.t.ter. Divide the Parmesan evenly among the cups. Brush the cups of a standard 12-cup m.u.f.fin tin with some of the melted b.u.t.ter. Divide the Parmesan evenly among the cups.

3. Combine the eggs, salt, pepper, milk, cream, and the remaining b.u.t.ter in a blender and blend until well combined. Add the flour and blend for 15 seconds, until smooth. Transfer the batter to a large mixing bowl. Stir in the fresh herbs. Combine the eggs, salt, pepper, milk, cream, and the remaining b.u.t.ter in a blender and blend until well combined. Add the flour and blend for 15 seconds, until smooth. Transfer the batter to a large mixing bowl. Stir in the fresh herbs.

4. Fill each m.u.f.fin cup halfway with batter. Divide the cheddar among the cups, and then top with the remaining batter. Fill each m.u.f.fin cup halfway with batter. Divide the cheddar among the cups, and then top with the remaining batter.

5. Bake the popovers for 15 minutes. Then reduce the heat to 350F and bake for 10 minutes. Bake the popovers for 15 minutes. Then reduce the heat to 350F and bake for 10 minutes.

6. Remove the m.u.f.fin tin from the oven and unmold the popovers onto a wire rack. Pierce the side of each popover with a small sharp knife to allow steam to escape. (This will help keep them from deflating.) Serve immediately. Remove the m.u.f.fin tin from the oven and unmold the popovers onto a wire rack. Pierce the side of each popover with a small sharp knife to allow steam to escape. (This will help keep them from deflating.) Serve immediately.